安家正

舊時的商業(yè)網點實在少得可憐，一個縣往往只在縣城有一條大街，大街中段有幾間平房組建的百貨公司，買賣物品主要靠“貨郎擔”和“廟會”。

“貨郎擔”不妨看作是流動的小型婦幼商店?！柏浝蓳本切”窘洜I，可是品種非常齊全，且送貨上門。這對被束縛在灶間鍋臺的家庭主婦來說，當然是極大的期待。因而，貨郎擔的職業(yè)標志——撥浪鼓一響，村里的大閨女小媳婦莫不頃刻云集，選購自己心儀的物品。然而，貨郎擔經營的畢竟只是針頭線腦、香粉胭脂之類，與鄉(xiāng)村春耕關系不大。為了生產，交易的必要場所是廟會。

廟會上各種生產物資十分齊全，除鋤鐮锨之外，犁、鏵、耬都會出現(xiàn)，牲畜交易有專門的“騾馬大會”。文登汪疃集就曾是膠東最大的牲畜交易中心。

農人幾乎沒有不趕廟會的。當時芝罘地界有“三大廟會”，各具特色，是社會生活的一景。廟會必有特色食品，這也是人們趕這個廟會不趕那個廟會的原因。

西郊有一個太平頂廟會，特色食品是冰糖葫蘆。一群闖外的青年，看到了老北京糖球，就把它引入當地，只楚的糖球紅火一時。

其次是東郊的廟會，印象中大概叫廟后宮廟會。有三類小食品風靡該廟會，一是糖炒栗子，二是炸地瓜片，三是爆玉米花。這三種小食品均為老太婆所鐘愛，孝女們必在廟會上采購若干，拎著敬獻母親。

第三是市區(qū)的毓璜頂廟會，這里的特色食品是水煎包。其實別的廟會也有水煎包，但毓璜頂廟會上的水煎包更具特色。制作者是一個外號叫吳四彪子的拳師。當年的體育課叫國術課，他兼作體育教員，在國術課上露兩手，常惹得眾人喝彩。讓吳四彪子露臉的還有他做的水煎包，一層焦黃的饹（音）兒，入嘴不膩不滑，非常有名。

廟會還是祖孫三代情感交融的平臺，老奶奶都希望領著小孫子逛廟會，享受天倫之樂。祖孫三代逛得時間久了，就借助于小吃充饑，某種小吃吃上了癮，就會常常念叨。廟會的小吃是大眾化的，物美價廉。幾乎每個廟會都有油條出攤，老奶奶拎回一束油條，會令孫子歡喜雀躍。如今仍有不少人保留著長輩帶著逛廟會的美好記憶，吃的什么忘卻了，“奶奶親我”卻念念不忘。有這份感情，廟會功不可沒。

Temple fairs are a platform to strengthen the emotional ties between grandparents and grandchildren. Grandmothers liked taking little grandchildren to temple fairs and enjoying the happiness of being together. After strolling at the temple fair for a long time， they would buy some snacks to satisfy their hunger. Once addicted to certain snacks， they would talk about them frequently. Most snacks at temple fairs are popular and cheap. There are deep-fried dough sticks stands at almost every temple fair. Grandmothers often brought home a bunch of deep-fried dough sticks from temple fairs， which would make grandchildren jump with joy. Today， many people still retain the sweet memories of going to temple fairs together with their elders. Perhaps they have forgotten what they ate， but they will never forget the “grandma’s love” for them. Temple fairs play an indispensable role in maintaining such sweet feelings.