文/五花肉

絲綢是中國(guó)燦爛文化的經(jīng)典符號(hào)，歷經(jīng)繅絲、織造、染整等工藝淬煉，以其卓越的品質(zhì)、精美的花色和豐富的內(nèi)涵名滿天下，被譽(yù)為東方文明照亮世界的第一縷陽(yáng)光。

Silk is a classic symbol of China's splendid culture. After silk reeling, weaving, dyeing and finishing, it is famous for its outstanding quality, exquisite color and rich connotation, and is praised as the first ray of sunshine for oriental civilization to illuminate the world.

繅絲重在水溫

Water Temperature Control: Key Element of Reeling

“嫘祖栽蠶桑吐絲，抽絲織作繡神奇”，絲綢源于桑蠶，始于繅絲?？壗z，亦稱抽絲，將蠶繭浸入水中反復(fù)以手振之，促其紓解為生絲。" Lei Zu raised silkworms and spun silk, reeling silk to make embroidery magic," silk originated from silkworms and started from silk reeling. Silk reeling,also known as silk reeling, involves repeatedly shaking silkworm cocoons in water to promote their release into raw silk.

在不同的水溫下，蠶繭紓解的程度也不同。人們?cè)陂L(zhǎng)期實(shí)踐中發(fā)現(xiàn)，當(dāng)水溫保持在80 ℃左右時(shí)，生絲的產(chǎn)出最佳，這一標(biāo)準(zhǔn)即使在現(xiàn)代絲綢生產(chǎn)工藝中依然被沿用。

Under different water temperatures, the degree of cocoon relief is also different. In long-term practice,it has been found that when the water temperature is kept at about 80 degrees Celsius, raw silk will produce the best. This standard is still used even in modern silk production technology.

織就綾羅緞錦

Weaving Satin and Brocade

“廣裁衫袖長(zhǎng)制裙，金斗熨波刀剪紋”，有了生絲原料，就可以進(jìn)入下一道織造工藝。不同的織造工藝，造就了不同類型的絲綢制品，世人熟知的“綾羅綢緞、絲帛錦絹”就是其中的佼佼者。With raw silk raw materials, you can enter the next weaving process. Different weaving processes have created different types of silk products, among which"Satin and Brocade " is the best known in the world.

織造標(biāo)準(zhǔn)分平織和多重織兩種。平織是最常見(jiàn)、最簡(jiǎn)單的單層編織，綾、綢都屬于這一類，兩者不同之處在于編織圖案，前者以斜紋為標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，質(zhì)地輕??；后者則以平紋經(jīng)緯交錯(cuò)為標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，挺括細(xì)密。多重織可視為不同類型的平織疊加，錦是其中的典型代表，以華麗花紋聞名，工藝復(fù)雜、價(jià)格昂貴，向有“織采為文，其價(jià)如金”之說(shuō)。

Weaving standards are divided into two types: plain weave and multi-weave. Flat weave is the most common and simple single-layer weave. Twill and silk belong to this category. The difference between the two lies in the weave pattern. The former is based on twill and is light and thin. The latter is based on the standard of plain warp and weft interlacing and is crisp and fine. Multiple weaves can be regarded as the superposition of different types of flat weaves,among which brocade is the typical representative.It is famous for its gorgeous patterns, complex workmanship and high price, and it is said to have "weaves and picks as the text, and its price is as high as gold".

染整點(diǎn)睛之筆

Dyeing and Finishing：Finishing Point of Silk Art

完成了織造，絲綢原胚已基本成型，只欠最后的點(diǎn)睛之筆——染整，對(duì)半成品進(jìn)行精煉、染色、整理，而染色則是其中決定性的核心工藝。

After finishing weaving, the silk embryo has been basically formed, and only the final finishing point,dyeing and finishing, is needed to refine. The semifinished products need dyeing and finishing, which are the decisive core technology.

古代絲綢染色原料多取自植物，煮水過(guò)濾制成染液，再將絲綢原胚浸入其中，成品的色度取決于浸染的時(shí)間和次數(shù)，初期只能依靠經(jīng)驗(yàn)，差異性較大，直至唐代才有了統(tǒng)一標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。根據(jù)唐玄宗時(shí)期頒布的《唐六典》，“練染之作有六，一曰青、二曰絳、三曰黃、四曰白、五曰皂、六曰紫”，染整色度標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體系就此建立。

The dyeing materials of ancient silk were mostly taken from plants, boiled water was filtered to make dye liquor, and then silk embryos were immersed in the dye liquor. The chromaticity of the finished products depended on the time and times of impregnation.At the beginning, the dyeing materials depended on experience, and the difference was great, until the Tang Dynasty there was a unified standard. According to the " Six Classics of the Tang Dynasty" issued by Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, " there are six practices of dyeing and finishing, one is green,two is crimson, three is yellow, four is white, five is black, and six is purple." The dyeing and finishing chromaticity standard system has been established accordingly.

結(jié) 語(yǔ)

Conclusion

在標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化理念的引導(dǎo)下，絲綢織造從口口相傳到代代傳承，工藝日臻精益；承載著文化內(nèi)涵和歷史積淀，從中國(guó)走向世界，在傳播東方文明的同時(shí)，也為世界人民貢獻(xiàn)了更加精致的生活品質(zhì)。Guided by the concept of standardization, silk weaving has been passed down from word of mouth to generation, and the process is getting leaner and leaner. Carrying the cultural connotation and historical accumulation, it moves from China to the world, spreading eastern civilization, and at the same time contributing more exquisite quality of life to the people of the world.