居住地域看來遙不可及,誰想到說見面就在眼前——今春邂逅汪丁丁教授,原是出于意外。
汪丁丁是我心儀已久的一位著名學者、經(jīng)濟學家。大約五六年前,他寫過一篇《九上知味觀》的文章,我讀后覺得頗多見地,很是精彩,便一直剪下保留著。一位學界名人寫杭州的一家百年名店,相映成趣,非常難得,而且寫的不是偶然去一二次的浮光掠影,竟是去了九次才成文,足見其情有獨鐘。由于這篇文章當時只發(fā)表在一家企業(yè)報上,讀者面不廣,當我于2001年到《文化交流》雜志任職時,便推薦了這篇文章,發(fā)表在我們經(jīng)手的新一期雜志上,引起良好反響,為雜志添了彩,有行家問及:“你們怎么組織到這樣名家的文章?”
五年多過去了,一直沒有機會與汪教授謀面。今春,汪教授到浙江大學經(jīng)濟學院授課,知味觀·味莊董總,也就是他那篇《九上知味觀》中所寫的主人公得悉我曾推崇過他的文章,便邀在他的店里相聚。汪丁丁教授穿著隨意,平易近人,鏡片后面透著睿智的目光;他胸前掛著一支粗粗的筆,我猜想大概不會是MP3,也許是寫作的特殊愛好之故。他言談不多,對菜肴也沒多少品評。他夫人李老師則侃侃而談,她對杭州印象很好,還問及報界一些朋友;出于女性的細膩,她給董夫人帶去一大束鮮花,說那天是“三八”節(jié),在座幾位男士則沒有想到。這樣一次短暫的相見,自然沒什么深談,但能“一識韓荊州”,很是舒心暢快。
過了大約一周,丁丁教授從網(wǎng)上給我發(fā)來一篇文章,令我喜出望外。這篇題為《杭州哈里》的文章,寫的是雷迪森大酒店“婆羅灣”餐廳的兩位外籍餐飲總監(jiān)和大廚,上一回寫的是“國粹”,這一次則是說“洋餐”,一中一西,各有異趣。為了這篇文章,他給我發(fā)了不止五六個電郵,一會兒發(fā)來菜肴照片,一會兒告我浙大的六位同人去“婆羅灣”品嘗,一會兒介紹去認識阿里和餐飲經(jīng)理……作為寫過幾十種專著的教授,為一篇美食時文,這樣細致周到,實在令人欽佩。此后,他告訴我將去美國一段時間,回來再見?!逗贾莅⒗铩芬晃脑谖覀冸s志發(fā)表后,我看到多家報紙也相繼刊載,而且登了阿里的大照片,讓杭州人認識這位年輕的印度大廚。
這些職業(yè)性的交往,對丁丁談不上有深入的了解。直到近日讀了他的一本名為《幽靈自述》,這才向我打開了座絢麗多彩、美不勝收的“丁丁花園”,也觸發(fā)了我寫此文的動因。這本著作是我偶爾在書店看到,因為作者是汪丁丁便欣然買來一讀。起先我是隨便翻翻的,因為怕太專業(yè)而讀不懂或者對所說所論沒有興趣,但一讀之后欲罷不能,驚嘆他讀書之多,涉獵之廣,立論之精。書中寫了他在美國、英國、德國、荷蘭、比利時、香港等地所遇所見所感,題材涉及哲學、經(jīng)濟、社會、歷史、科技等,且文體多種多樣,有專訪、隨筆、散文、游記、對話、日記等。
汪丁丁既是一個具有深邃思想的學者,也是一位闖蕩世界、瀟灑自如的博士,像是一個“快樂的王子”。一年當中,他在北京呆幾個月,春暖花開時便到杭州,在浙大授課的同時,逛西湖,嘗美食,走市場;接著飛到香港又去夏威夷,一二個月后又飛回北京,誰知他下一站又飛到哪里去了呢?從他這本四年前出版的《幽靈自述》看,他可以在華盛頓、紐約、柏林這些大都市穿梭,住“白宮后面不遠”的“元首飯店’;也會在歐洲萊茵河邊的小鎮(zhèn)流連忘返,簡陋的低價小旅館也能對付。但不論到哪里,總不忘品嘗各地的特色風味和各類咖啡,而且常常能品出韻味,見諸文字,就連夏威夷山谷小鎮(zhèn)一家不大的餐館,也會溶入他的筆端。《大廚安吉亞》就是一篇有趣的文字,廚師給自己的餐館起了一個別致的店名“大廚的飯桌”,就餐的氣氛非常親切隨和,大廚安吉亞烹調(diào)的三文魚“魚肉炮制外皮微焦酥脆油滋滋紅燦燦,內(nèi)里細膩柔滑香噴噴粉艷艷,三文魚底色下襯以紫色、白色和綠色的時菜絲,盤子邊上圍十幾粒黑色橄欖……”“每每在我看來,更像是文藝復興時代色彩富麗的宗教繪畫,那塊三文魚好比是披著深紅色長袍的大主教,各色菜絲交織成教堂的圓形天頂,墨綠色的厚重餐巾鋪在盤子和刀叉的下面,象征著陰謀與愛情?!边@實在是把這盤三文魚立體化、藝術化和歷史化了。
與一般學者不同的是,汪丁丁來來往往總是與夫人、孩子一起參與學術采訪、旅游活動,共同分享學術研究的興味和大自然賜予的美色。不像我們一般看到的對一些有成就的學者、科學家的報道那樣,總說他們一頭扎在事業(yè)里,無法抽時間陪妻子上街、購物、散步、旅游等等。汪丁丁不愧是個現(xiàn)代學者,既會工作又會生活、休閑,也會做一個“模范丈夫”。有一次在美國采訪諾貝爾獎得主布坎南教授時,他不但和夫人一道去,還一起完成了一篇《貝蒂》的散文。汪丁丁對妻子有一段很生動的描述:“妻子是一個典型的中國女人,小巧,熱情,忠誠,戀家,聰明,正直,并且能吃苦。她幾乎一輩子都跟著我在世界上闖蕩?!拮拥奈墓P其實很好,這是我母親說的,我母親是老資格記者,我非常相信她的文字眼光?!蓖舳《∨c妻子的琴瑟和諧、配合默契在書中有許多記載,在德國科隆的公園時,他們一同走了兩個小時,陶醉在路邊的白色無名小草、蘑菇亭和遠處的紅楓、白樺、黃楊和綠樅的景色之中,“妻子說,她見到了最浪漫的森林,最心曠神怡的草地和最細膩的雨絲。她說希望讓我每天坐在林間草地那張木椅里讀書和思考,然后享用她為我送來的最可口的飯食。我說在這樣幽靜和濕潤的空氣里,思想會像蘑菇一樣生長?!边@一段話說得多么詩情畫意又富有哲理,工作學習原來并不和旅游休閑對立的,“蘑菇”里是會“生”出“思想”來的啊!
當然,汪丁丁的主業(yè)是經(jīng)濟學教授,而且是一位哲學家和文人。他不但寫過《我思考的經(jīng)濟學》《知識印象(經(jīng)濟學家隨筆)》《經(jīng)濟學與自由》等眾多經(jīng)濟學著作,還寫過《回家的路》《網(wǎng)絡幽靈與蘇格拉底的對話》等充滿哲理的篇章,他完全有資格說:“我或許是中國人里面最喜歡哲學問題的經(jīng)濟學家,但我始終認為我本質(zhì)上是一個哲學家而不是一個經(jīng)濟學家?!彼耐厡W者說他:“汪丁丁的筆下,除了黑格爾、康德、羅素、休謨等人的大段論述,還有方程式,他經(jīng)常被問道:到底讀了多少書?”“他的文章,引用大師們的著述,可謂爐火純青,隨心所欲,不逾矩?!薄敖?jīng)濟學家能寫出那樣漂亮的文章,真是讀者的幸事?!彼眠^數(shù)學理學學士學位、“數(shù)學與系統(tǒng)科學”理學碩士學位和美國夏威夷大學經(jīng)濟學博士,受過嚴格的學術訓練,當過香港大學教授、德國杜依斯堡大學的客座教授,還有北大、浙大的教授……總之,汪丁丁是寫不完的,還是用以《非常道》一書蜚聲學界的余世存的一段話作結束語:
“汪丁丁幾乎是一個說不盡的話題,他的學問思想、他的傳奇經(jīng)歷、他的人格魅力等等,都是?!?/p>
My Acquaintance with Wang Dingding
By Cheng Fang
I met Professor Wang Dingding this spring by chance. For years, I had wished to meet him. I admire him, a prominent scholar and economist. About five or six years ago I read a story he wrote about the Zhiweiguan Restaurant in Hangzhou. I read it in a newsletter printed and distributed by a business enterprise. I was deeply impressed by the story and saved it, thinking it was quite rare for a scholar to write about a restaurant after nine visits. In 2001, I recommended the story to the Cultural Dialogue where I was working. The story was published and readers responded to it favorably. Some industrial insiders even asked me how we had managed to find articles by such a famous scholar.
Five years had passed and I did not have the opportunity to meet him. In the spring of 2006, Wang came to give lectures at the College of Economics at Zhejiang University. I finally met him at the Zhiweiguan restaurant. On that day, he was casually dressed and looked amiable and unassuming, the eyes sparkling intelligently behind the spectacles. He was a brilliant conversationalist.
A week later, he sent me a story about two foreigners working at the food beverage department at the Hangzhou Radisson Hotel. I was overjoyed, for it was more than I had expected. His first story had been about a Chinese restaurant and this one was about exotic foreign food in Hangzhou. He sent me five emails, providing background information. He recommended me to meet the Indian chef there, thus making my editing work extremely easy. The story was well received by the readers and a few local media reprinted it.
The meeting and correspondences with the professor were just professional associations. I couldn誸 say I knew much about Wang. But things changed after I read a book by him. I happened to spot the book in a bookstore and picked it up. It grabbed my attention. It is a collection of his essays and travel notes and what I read was about philosophy, economics, society, history, science, etc, and he is versatile in terms of styles.
Now I can say I know a little more about him. He is a busy scholar. He stays in Beijing for a few months before coming to Hangzhou in the spring time. While giving lectures at Zhejiang University, he tours the West Lake and enjoys gourmand food. Then he will fly to Hong Kong and to Hawaii. Then he will come back to Beijing. Who knows where he will go after that?
Unlike other scholars who devote heart and soul to work, Wang Dingding always finds time for his family. As a matter of fact, he tours the world with his wife. It is a pleasant life experience for the couple.
Though a professor of economics with a number of books under his belt, Wang Dingding tends to believe that he is a philosopher by nature. His peers comment that he often cites philosophers such as Hegel, Kant, Russell, and Hume in his writings. One of the most frequently asked questions he often faces is how many books he has read.
(Translated by David)