林森
燒烤,在濟(jì)南是一場(chǎng)盛宴,熱情如火,展現(xiàn)出濟(jì)南人豪爽的性格和對(duì)美食的獨(dú)特追求。在濟(jì)南,燒烤攤點(diǎn)綴其中,各色烤串整齊擺放,煙火在夜幕中燃燒,將燒烤的誘惑散發(fā)到每個(gè)角落。
濟(jì)南燒烤由來(lái)已久,最早出現(xiàn)于20世紀(jì)70年代,之后在經(jīng)一緯九附近逐漸形成了規(guī)模,從此“一九燒烤”在全國(guó)范圍內(nèi)樹立起了金字招牌。濟(jì)南燒烤不同于市面上尋常見(jiàn)到的東北燒烤、新疆燒烤,自出現(xiàn)起就自成一派,打造了自己獨(dú)有的特色:串小、味足、多樣。
古人講:食不厭精膾不厭細(xì)。燒烤雖然自帶一種豪放氣質(zhì),但在濟(jì)南依然有著細(xì)致的內(nèi)核。濟(jì)南燒烤從食材原料進(jìn)貨起就嚴(yán)格把關(guān),羊肉均選用黃河以北專業(yè)養(yǎng)殖戶或屠宰戶養(yǎng)殖的羊,經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的店家通過(guò)“一聞二看三摸,就能判斷出羊肉新鮮不新鮮、摻水不摻水。在肉串的穿法上,也極為講究,濟(jì)南燒烤的烤串講究“三一”原則,即三塊瘦肉,中間一塊肥肉,要順著簽子一口擼到嘴里,肥瘦混合著嚼,才能吃出烤羊肉的精髓。小串在烤制上也有獨(dú)到的優(yōu)勢(shì),易入味、易烤熟,肉也更有嚼頭。
除了選肉、穿肉串,濟(jì)南燒烤的烤法也極為講究。不能用明火燒,只能用木炭燃燒后的熾熱來(lái)烤。所以濟(jì)南燒烤中的“燒”和“烤”是兩道程序,濟(jì)南燒烤的傳統(tǒng)燒烤方法就是 “先燒后烤”。所謂“燒”,就是先“養(yǎng)火”,即在正式燒烤前,先在一個(gè)爐子上把果木炭點(diǎn)燃,養(yǎng)火時(shí)需不斷地翻動(dòng)木炭,等到木炭燃燒得顏色發(fā)白,再夾到烤爐里“悶燒”等待食客的到來(lái)。而到了“烤”這一環(huán)節(jié),就更考驗(yàn)師傅對(duì)“火候”的掌握了。如果木炭的溫度低,肉串不僅熟得慢,而且肉塊也會(huì)萎縮,還有一股煙熏的味道;如果木炭的溫度高,肉串的外表就會(huì)烤焦發(fā)黑,不但賣相難看,肉塊的內(nèi)里也會(huì)烤焦;如果在燒烤時(shí)木炭或滴落的油起了明火,那肉串肯定是“火燒火燎”,外焦里不熟。所以,有經(jīng)驗(yàn)的燒烤師傅都會(huì)常備一把蒲扇,在溫度不夠時(shí),用蒲扇扇去木炭上的白灰協(xié)助升溫;木炭還沒(méi)有完全燃燒好時(shí),要盡快扇風(fēng)讓木炭燃燒成無(wú)煙的白色;而如果烤時(shí)滴落了油脂有了明火,就要迅速地用蒲扇把它扇滅。如此,才能達(dá)到烤串的最佳狀態(tài),烤炙出的肉串滋滋冒油,外酥里嫩。
除此之外,濟(jì)南燒烤烤串的類型也花樣繁多,以羊肉為主,肥牛、五花、蒜瓣肉,滋滋入味;翅中、翅尖、掌中寶等也很受食客、老饕們喜愛(ài),還有烤馬步魚、烤黃花魚、烤千頁(yè)豆腐、烤茄子、烤韭菜等多種食材供客人選擇。
夜色降臨,在濟(jì)南的尋常巷陌,豪爽的濟(jì)南人褪去一天的疲憊,趕赴一場(chǎng)舌尖盛宴,三兩好友,走進(jìn)燒烤店,找個(gè)方桌坐下,點(diǎn)上一扎啤酒,再配上一盤“花毛一體”和黃瓜拌油條,靜等各色烤串上場(chǎng),開擼!
Barbecue, as hot as this summer, is a feast that mirrors generosity and desire for gourmet food of the local people. Jinan barbecue has a long history, as it first appeared in the 1970s, and gradually grew massive in scale in Jingyi Weijiu Road. Since then a gold-lettered signboard of “Yi Jiu Barbecue” has set up. Since its emergence, Jinan barbecue has formed a style of its own, with unique characteristics -small skewers, abundant flavor and various selections. When the night falls, the vibrant streets and alleys in Jinan are bursting with lively sidewalk barbecue stalls. The locals pour into restaurants, ordering home-cooked dishes like stir-fried cabbage and boiled peanuts, and cold beers that seem like a refreshing thirst quencher on a hot summer day. Apparently barbecue skewers are the main course of the night.