凱特·斯普林格　范婕/譯

As I sit down for a Shanghai-style pedicure at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong， I quickly realize its not going to be the usual buff and polish. Pedicurist Benjamin Cheung whips out a black satchel， full of blades in various shapes and sizes. And he plans to use them on my feet. Cheung， who emigrated from Shanghai with his family in the 1990s， explains the centuries-old process： Hell use his scalpels to shave off dead skin， clean up my cuticles and whittle down any calluses.

我來(lái)到香港文華東方酒店，坐下來(lái)準(zhǔn)備接受一次滬式足部護(hù)理，很快意識(shí)到這次不會(huì)是像往常那樣的清潔養(yǎng)護(hù)。足部護(hù)理師本杰明·張突然拿出一個(gè)黑色皮包，里面裝著形狀各樣、大小不一的刀具，而這些他都將用在我腳上。20世紀(jì)90年代，張與家人從上海移居香港。他向我說(shuō)明這項(xiàng)傳承數(shù)百年的技藝：他會(huì)用他的各式刮刀刮去我腳上的死皮，清除角質(zhì)，修掉老繭。

“In the old days， only wealthy people or businessmen got to enjoy Shanghai-style pedicures. Most of the people could not afford these luxurious treatments，” Cheung tells CNN Travel. “When Shanghai-style businessmen moved to Hong Kong in the 1900s， there was a demand for this service and thats how Shanghai-style pedicures were brought to this city. Now they are very common there and can be found in many public bathing facilities， spas and barbershops.

“過(guò)去只有富人或商人才能享受滬式足部護(hù)理，大多數(shù)人享受不起這項(xiàng)奢侈服務(wù)。”張接受美國(guó)有線電視新聞網(wǎng)旅游頻道采訪時(shí)說(shuō)，“1900年代，有上海商人遷居香港，他們需要滬式足部護(hù)理，這項(xiàng)服務(wù)也由此引入香港。如今，滬式足部護(hù)理在香港已經(jīng)非常普遍，很多公共洗浴場(chǎng)所、水療中心和理發(fā)店都有?！?/p>

A smooth shave

體驗(yàn)修腳服務(wù)

To begin the 50-minute treatment， Cheung runs a warm foot bath to soften the dry skin. He then intently examines my feet， feeling each patch with his finger to gauge the roughness， before pulling out the appropriate tool.

在開(kāi)始時(shí)長(zhǎng)50分鐘的護(hù)理前，張先用熱水給我泡了泡腳，軟化干燥的皮膚，接著他非常仔細(xì)地對(duì)我的腳進(jìn)行檢查，用手指觸摸每一個(gè)地方，確定粗糙程度，然后拿出合適的工具。

Cheung smooths the balls of my feet， chisels through some calluses and delicately tidies my toenails. I hardly felt anything while he was working， perhaps a tickle in places but certainly no pain. By the end， hes used at least six blades and has carved what feels like two pounds off my heels.

張把我腳上疙疙瘩瘩的地方磨平，挫掉一些繭子，細(xì)致地修剪了趾甲。在他操作的整個(gè)過(guò)程中，我?guī)缀醺杏X(jué)不到什么，可能時(shí)而有一點(diǎn)癢，但完全不痛。到最后結(jié)束時(shí)，他至少用上了六把刀，仿佛從我腳上削掉了兩磅重的東西。

Walking out of the salon， my soles are slippery smooth―its almost like gliding on two sticks of butter.

走出沙龍的時(shí)候，我腳底滑溜溜的，好像是踩在兩條黃油上滑行一樣。

The sifu from Shanghai

來(lái)自上海的足部護(hù)理師

But why a Shanghai-style pedicure in Hong Kong？

但香港怎么會(huì)有滬式足部護(hù)理呢？

“Its worth keeping in mind that Shanghai and Hong Kong have had historic connections for almost two centuries，” John Carroll， a professor of history at the University of Hong Kong and the author of A Concise History of Hong Kong， tells CNN Travel. “Thousands of people from Shanghai emigrated to Hong Kong over the years.” Nicknamed “Emigrant Entrepreneurs，” these prople brought businesses， expertise and sartorial style that still permeates Hong Kong culture today―evidenced by the remaining Shanghai tailors， restaurants， barbers and， yes， pedicurists peppered about the city.

“應(yīng)該要記住的是，近兩個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái)，上海和香港在歷史上有著非常重要的聯(lián)系。”高馬可是香港大學(xué)的一位歷史學(xué)教授，也是《香港簡(jiǎn)史》的作者，他接受美國(guó)有線電視新聞網(wǎng)旅游頻道采訪時(shí)說(shuō)，“那些年，有成千上萬(wàn)的上海人移居香港。”這些上海人被叫做“移民企業(yè)家”，他們辦企業(yè)，還帶來(lái)了專(zhuān)業(yè)技術(shù)和著裝風(fēng)尚，這些如今仍影響著香港文化——在香港，隨處可見(jiàn)滬式裁縫、餐廳、理發(fā)師，當(dāng)然了，還有滬式足部護(hù)理師。

“When I was 11， my family moved to Hong Kong to explore opportunities， like many other families from the mainland， in the ‘80s and ‘90s，” Cheung says. “At the time， Hong Kong was well developed and there was a high demand for labor in different industries.”

張說(shuō)起以前的事：“20世紀(jì)八九十年代，和中國(guó)內(nèi)地很多家庭一樣，我們家也來(lái)到香港尋求發(fā)展機(jī)會(huì)，那時(shí)我11歲。當(dāng)時(shí)的香港繁榮發(fā)達(dá)，各個(gè)領(lǐng)域的勞動(dòng)力需求都很大?！?/p>

As Cheung adjusted to the culture， he realized the value of having a niche professional skill that others couldnt easily emulate. “Shanghai-style pedicures require special and traditional skills， which are passed down from generation to generation，” says Cheung. “I was inspired by my uncle， who was a pedicurist from Shanghai， and decided to follow his path.” At 18 years old， Cheung moved back to Shanghai where he studied the techniques for two years.

張慢慢適應(yīng)著香港文化環(huán)境，他意識(shí)到，必須要掌握一技之長(zhǎng)，而且這項(xiàng)技能得是別人輕易效仿不了的。“滬式足部護(hù)理所需的專(zhuān)業(yè)技能和傳統(tǒng)技藝，是一代又一代傳下來(lái)的。”張說(shuō)道，“我叔叔是位足部護(hù)理師，受到他的激勵(lì)，我也決定干這行?！庇谑?8歲時(shí)張回到上海，在那兒學(xué)了兩年的技術(shù)。

The young man returned to Hong Kong as a budding Shanghai sifu （master） and took up the practice first at a private resort. Cheung later joined the Mandarin Oriental in 2007， where he has worked for the past decade.

年輕的張學(xué)成后又返回香港，成為一位新晉的滬式足部護(hù)理師。起初他在一個(gè)私人度假村做足部護(hù)理師，后來(lái)在2007年進(jìn)了文華東方酒店，過(guò)去10年一直在那兒上班。

An urban trend

城市掀新潮

The Shanghai-style pedicure was named after the Chinese city， but thats most likely not where it originated.

雖然滬式足部護(hù)理是以中國(guó)上海（簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)“滬”）命名，但它很可能并不起源于這座城市。

Samuel So， another sifu who works at the Mandarin Oriental and apprenticed under Shanghai masters， says that the pedicure was first practiced in rural areas and smaller cities， later making its way to Shanghai as the country urbanized. “It was named the ‘Shanghai-style pedicure because Shanghai was the place where everyone first learned about the treatment，” So tells CNN Travel. “In the old days， many people wanted to move to Shanghai for a better job and a better life. Some people brought the pedicure skills with them to Shanghai. Like Hong Kong a few decades ago， Shanghai was a place with opportunities. The economy there was blooming， which led to high demands in grooming.”

塞繆爾·蘇是文華東方酒店的另一位足部護(hù)理師，曾經(jīng)也在上海師傅手下學(xué)徒。他說(shuō)，起初是在一些鄉(xiāng)村地區(qū)和小城市開(kāi)始有足部護(hù)理，后來(lái)隨著中國(guó)的城市化發(fā)展，足部護(hù)理才在上海興盛起來(lái)。“叫‘滬式足部護(hù)理，是因?yàn)樯虾Ｊ侨藗冏钤缰肋@項(xiàng)服務(wù)的地方。”蘇接受美國(guó)有線電視新聞網(wǎng)旅游頻道采訪時(shí)說(shuō)，“那時(shí)候有很多人想去上海謀求更好的工作、過(guò)上更好的生活，一些掌握足部護(hù)理技術(shù)的人也去了。像幾十年前的香港一樣，當(dāng)時(shí)的上海也是個(gè)充滿機(jī)遇的地方，經(jīng)濟(jì)欣欣向榮，清潔洗護(hù)市場(chǎng)需求旺盛?！?/p>

In Hong Kong， the pedicures are thought to have first surfaced in the late 1940s with the opening of Shanghai Tong Hing Yuk Tak Bathhouse. Emulating the traditional Shanghai bathhouse culture， the Mong Kok address was a hotspot for socializing， business， entertainment and relaxation.

20世紀(jì)40年代末，隨著上海同記浴德池浴室的開(kāi)業(yè)，足部護(hù)理服務(wù)始現(xiàn)香港。這家澡堂位于香港旺角，效仿上海傳統(tǒng)的澡堂文化，人們社交、談生意、娛樂(lè)消遣、休息放松都愛(ài)去那兒。

Health before beauty

健康第一，美麗第二

Over the years， Shanghai-style pedicures have been adopted by day spas and foot reflexology centers in Hong Kong. Theyre a category all their own―considered more of a healthy practice than an aesthetic fix. More importantly， these foot treatments are considered to promote hygiene by shaving away dirt， ingrown toenails， corns， calluses and warts.

這些年來(lái)，香港的一些日間水療中心和足療中心也吸納了滬式足部護(hù)理。足部護(hù)理被分為一項(xiàng)單獨(dú)的服務(wù)，因?yàn)槿藗冇X(jué)得這種護(hù)理更多是為了強(qiáng)身健體，而非顯美遮丑。更重要的是，大家認(rèn)為足部護(hù)理去除掉腳上的污垢、長(zhǎng)進(jìn)肉里的趾甲、雞眼、老繭和疣，促進(jìn)了個(gè)人衛(wèi)生。

“In China， people do pedicures for practical reasons. They do of course improve the appearance of feet， but they also help your health，” says Cheung. “Our feet support the weight of our whole body. If we suffer from foot problems， that could affect our walking and sitting postures， which may cause back and other health problems.”

“中國(guó)人做足部護(hù)理的原因是很實(shí)際的，足部護(hù)理當(dāng)然能讓雙足變好看，但還利于身體健康?！睆埥忉尩?，“雙足支撐著全身的重量，如果它們有問(wèn)題，那我們行走和坐立的姿勢(shì)可能會(huì)受影響，繼而又可能會(huì)引發(fā)背部和其他身體疾病?！?/p>

Pedicures around town

足部護(hù)理遍布香港

Whether youre treating yourself to a $100 pedicure at the Mandarin Oriental or sitting down for a more budget-friendly experience， travelers can find the traditional Chinese practice at various spas and foot massage halls throughout Hong Kong.

無(wú)論是文華東方酒店每次收費(fèi)100美元的足部護(hù)理，還是其他地方更經(jīng)濟(jì)實(shí)惠的護(hù)理體驗(yàn)，來(lái)香港旅游的人在這座城市很多水療中心和足部按摩廳都能享受到這項(xiàng)中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服務(wù)。

Among Hong Kongs reputable addresses， travelers can experience the traditional treatment at Ten Feet Tall―a stylish address with spacious rooms， fresh juices and tropical decor. Another option is Happy Foot―a well-known name around town with two locations， one in Central and another in Wan Chai. Both branches provide the service along with full-body massages， reflexology foot rubs and more. Gaos Foot Massage， tucked away in a commercial building in Central， also provides a clean environment and traditional Chinese decor.

香港有不少知名好去處，時(shí)尚的Ten Feet Tall休閑中心便是其中之一，那兒房間寬敞，提供鮮美果汁，店面裝修是熱帶風(fēng)格，游客們可以體驗(yàn)到傳統(tǒng)的足部護(hù)理。另一個(gè)選擇是“知足樂(lè)”足療中心，這家足療中心在香港人盡皆知，它有兩個(gè)分店，一個(gè)在中環(huán)，一個(gè)在灣仔，兩個(gè)店都提供足部護(hù)理服務(wù)，同時(shí)也有全身按摩、足療按摩等。另外還有一家叫“古法足道”的按摩店，藏在中環(huán)一幢商業(yè)大樓中，店里很干凈，是傳統(tǒng)中式裝修風(fēng)格。

More Shanghai grooming

更多滬式洗護(hù)場(chǎng)所

The influence of Shanghai culture isnt limited to pedicures. Across the city， you can still find remnants of traditional grooming in the form of barber shops and tailors. “Shanghai people enjoyed nightlife， entertainment and a playful lifestyle，” Corey Mak， a researcher who authored “The Heritage of Hair-Cutting，” tells CNN Travel. “All these places were run by people from Shanghai， with hopes of reproducing a cosmopolitan Shanghai atmosphere.”

上海文化的影響并不僅限于足部護(hù)理，在香港各處的理發(fā)店和裁縫店里仍能看到傳統(tǒng)洗護(hù)業(yè)的痕跡。“上海人很在意夜生活，喜歡娛樂(lè)活動(dòng)，平日里很愛(ài)玩?！丙渿?guó)健接受美國(guó)有線電視新聞網(wǎng)旅游頻道采訪時(shí)說(shuō)。他是位研究員，著有《理發(fā)的遺產(chǎn)》一書(shū)?！耙郧澳切┑甑慕?jīng)營(yíng)者都是上海來(lái)的內(nèi)地人，他們希望在香港再現(xiàn)一種上海大都會(huì)氛圍。”

Though many of the earlier venues have closed down over the years， travelers can still find a bit of Shanghai in Hong Kong―particularly in the North Point district， which became known as a “Little Shanghai.” “Shanghai-style barbers， in particular， had a reputation for providing modern and trendy services， not otherwise available locally，” explains Mak. “Having ‘Shanghai Style on the signboard for a barbershop was a signal to potential customers that theyll receive a high standard of service， a tidy environment and add-ons， such as cooling towels， shoe shining， cigarettes， scalp massages， and more.”

雖然近些年很多早先的洗護(hù)店都已經(jīng)關(guān)掉了，游客們?nèi)钥梢栽谙愀壅业揭稽c(diǎn)上海氣息，尤其是北角區(qū)，人們稱(chēng)那兒為“小上?！薄！耙?yàn)樘峁┠Φ菚r(shí)尚的服務(wù)項(xiàng)目，那時(shí)候滬式理發(fā)店很有名，那些服務(wù)在香港的其他理發(fā)店是沒(méi)有的。”麥解釋道，“如果哪家理發(fā)店的招牌上寫(xiě)著‘滬式，想理發(fā)的人看了就會(huì)明白，店里服務(wù)高級(jí)、環(huán)境整潔，客人還會(huì)享受到一些附贈(zèng)服務(wù)，如涼巾、擦鞋、香煙和頭部按摩等等?！?/p>