劉曉娜 曾馨樂(lè)

5年前的一個(gè)溫暖冬日，我第一次走進(jìn)北碚金剛碑，就被這個(gè)古老的村鎮(zhèn)所吸引。以至于5年來(lái)，每當(dāng)冬天出太陽(yáng)，腦海里不自覺(jué)地就會(huì)浮現(xiàn)金剛碑居民在溪谷邊曬太陽(yáng)的畫(huà)面，那種溫暖的觸感，就像祖母的手在輕撫額頭。

那次探訪(fǎng)不久，金剛碑歷史文化街區(qū)修繕修復(fù)項(xiàng)目便啟動(dòng)了。目前，核心區(qū)修繕工作已全部完工，金剛碑即將重新開(kāi)街的消息不脛而走。網(wǎng)友們打卡的照片，再次勾起了我的強(qiáng)烈欲望，一定要在開(kāi)街前再會(huì)會(huì)這位“老朋友”。

Five years ago， I was attracted by this ancient village when I first walked into Beibei King Kong Monument on a warm winter day. In the past five years， whenever the sun shone in winter， the image of King Kong Monument residents sunbathing by the stream valley would come to my mind. The warm touch is like my grandmother’s hand gently caressing my forehead.

Shortly after that visit， the project of restoring the historical and cultural block of King Kong Monument was launched. At present， the repairing work of the core area has been completed， and the news that the King Kong Monument is about to reopen has spread like wildfire. After seeing the photos taken by the netizens in the historical and cultural block of King Kong Monument， I had a strong urge to visit my "old friend" again before the street opening.

變與不變What Changed and What Stayed the Same

重逢發(fā)生在7月的一場(chǎng)雨后。

以縉云山的云霧繚繞為背景，從北泉路一個(gè)不起眼的岔路口拐進(jìn)，沿蜿蜒的下坡路朝嘉陵江前進(jìn)。這是一段愜意的步行，置身山巒拱翠之中，蟬鳴此起彼伏，濕漉漉的空氣附著在皮膚表面，頗有“空山新雨后”的意境。

數(shù)百米后，當(dāng)一群參差不齊的屋頂在山谷間涌現(xiàn)時(shí)，便到了金剛碑?；叵?年前的初次造訪(fǎng)，金剛碑非常隱蔽、難尋，當(dāng)我們從一個(gè)酒店的停車(chē)場(chǎng)穿入老街時(shí)，竟有一種誤闖私宅的冒失感。

而此刻，當(dāng)一棟名為“秋霞的城堡”的房子闖入眼簾時(shí)，我隱約預(yù)感到：滄桑的金剛碑也許正在變成一個(gè)活潑、酷炫、文藝的“潮老太”，她以一種開(kāi)放熱情的姿態(tài)迎接游人。

在強(qiáng)烈的好奇和忐忑中，我們踏上石梯，一步一步下到溪谷，走入金剛碑的腹心。

再次走在老街，我確信這已經(jīng)不是上一次看到的金剛碑，但又很難一眼分辨出具體的改變。肉眼望去，新與舊似乎已經(jīng)融為一體。

變與不變，需要用感官細(xì)細(xì)捕捉。街道的肌理、建筑的布局、古鎮(zhèn)的氣質(zhì)，似乎都還是我印象中的金剛碑，她仿佛并沒(méi)有改變。

仔細(xì)觀察，她又的確變了，屋頂?shù)哪玖线€散發(fā)著新鮮的氣息，木質(zhì)紋路清晰可見(jiàn)；原有的土坯、磚墻之上，加入了金屬框架和玻璃，看上去時(shí)尚、牢固。某種程度上，這些局部的改變或許削弱了金剛碑的滄桑感，卻也讓她看上去更加健康，不再搖搖欲墜。

The reunion came after a rain in July.

With clouds gathered above Jinyun Mountain， I turned in from an inconspicuous fork in Beiquan Road and proceeded along the winding downhill road toward Jialing River. It was a pleasant walk. In the arched green mountains， cicadas were chirping and the moist air kept your skin lubricated， reminding me of the poem，"After the Rain Freshens the Empty Hills".

A few hundred meters later， King Kong Monument was visible as a jagged array of roofs emerging in the valley. Looking back to our first visit five years ago， the King Kong Monument was very hidden and hard to find. When we crossed into the old street from a hotel parking lot， we had a sense of trespassing in a private house.

At that moment， when a house called "Qiuxia’s Castle" came into view， I had a vague feeling that the vicissitudes of King Kong Monument may be turning into a lively， cool and literary "Hip Old Lady"， who welcomes visitors with an open and enthusiastic attitude.

With intense curiosity and apprehension， we stepped onto the stone stairs， descended step by step into the valley of the stream， and walked into the belly of the King Kong Monument.

Walking down the old street again， I was certain that this was not the same King Kong Monument I had last seen， but it was hard to tell exactly what had changed at a glance. To the naked eye， the new and the old seemed to have merged into one.

What changed and what stayed the same need you to feel with the senses. The texture of the streets， the layout of the buildings， and the atmosphere of the ancient town are the same as the King Kong Monument in my memory， as if she had not changed.

Upon closer inspection， she has indeed changed. The wood of the roof still smelt fresh and the wood grain was clearly visible； the original adobe and brick walls had been topped with metal frames and glass， looking stylish and solid. To some extent， these local changes may have weakened the vicissitudes of King Kong Monument， but also made her look more healthy and less shaky.

直接的表達(dá)Direct Expression

如果說(shuō)過(guò)去的金剛碑是一位含蓄的老人，所有的溫暖都表達(dá)在日常生活中，就像茶館里終日翻騰的開(kāi)水，有樸素、熱鬧的煙火氣。

那么，今天的金剛碑變得更加直接，仿佛要將幾百年的文化底蘊(yùn)通通寫(xiě)在臉上，用今天的話(huà)語(yǔ)可以解讀為“文藝范兒”：一塊指路石上刻著“飄零巷”，原生態(tài)地名更加顯露地傳達(dá)著詩(shī)意；連接兩條巷道的門(mén)廊上刻著“曲折竟時(shí)、溪入嘉陵”，這條窄窄的廊道竟然也有個(gè)專(zhuān)門(mén)的名字——“曲折廊”；橫跨小溪的風(fēng)雨廊橋名叫“過(guò)溪樓”……

給一棟樓一座橋取個(gè)詩(shī)意的名字，這樣的雅興古已有之。今天的金剛碑還有更大膽的表達(dá)：一棟房子的故事被寫(xiě)在墻上。僅從房前走過(guò)，就能了解屋主的曾經(jīng)。

比如那棟名叫“秋霞的城堡”的房子，屋主李興喜是改革開(kāi)放后的金剛碑首富，1987年落成這棟房子后，他的女兒秋霞最喜歡夏天在屋頂數(shù)星星。又比如，一位生于1929年的屋主秦定權(quán)，以養(yǎng)馬馱運(yùn)煤炭謀生，一家六口擁擠在土坯房中，直到上世紀(jì)八十年代才從溪溝挑揀荒石壘砌成屋。

我們雖沒(méi)見(jiàn)到秋霞，卻通過(guò)墻上的涂鴉，想象著她說(shuō)這番話(huà)的模樣；雖然不知道秦定權(quán)是否尚在人間，但他的名字將被來(lái)往的游客一次次注視。一個(gè)有溫度的金剛碑，正以這種方式徐徐走來(lái)。

If the King Kong Monument in the past was an implicit old man， all the warmth was expressed in daily life， just like the boiling water churning all day long in a teahouse， with simple and lively fireworks.

Then， today’s King Kong Monument has become more direct， as if to write all the cultural details of hundreds of years on the face， which can be interpreted as "literary style" in today’s words： a guiding stone is engraved with "Piaoling Lane"， and the original ecological place name is more poetic； The porch connecting the two lanes is engraved with "When the twists and turns， the stream enters Jialing". This narrow corridor even has a special name-"Quzhe Corridor"； The all-weather bridge across the stream is called "Guoxi Floor".

The elegance of giving a building or a bridge a poetic name has existed since ancient times. Today’s King Kong Monument has an even bolder expression： the story of a house is written on the wall. Just walking in front of the house， you can know the past of the owner.

For example， the owner of the house called "Qiuxia’s Castle"， Li Xingxi， is the richest man in the King Kong Monument after the reform and opening up. After the house was completed in 1987， his daughter Qiuxia liked to count stars on the roof in summer. Another example is Qin Dingquan， a homeowner who was born in 1929. He made his living by raising horses to carry coal， and his family of six was cramped in an adobe house until the 1980s， when they picked up barren rocks from a ravine to build a house.

Although we did not see Qiu Xia， we imagined through the graffiti on the wall what she looked like when she said these words. Although we don’t know if Qin Dingquan is still alive， his name will be known by coming visitors. A King Kong monument with temperature is coming slowly in this way.

時(shí)間的倒影Reflection of Time

金剛碑曾被稱(chēng)為“古渝州最偏遠(yuǎn)的山村”，也許正是偏遠(yuǎn)、隱蔽，讓它得以用自己的方式慢慢生長(zhǎng)、改變。

今天，我們?cè)诜N種修繕細(xì)節(jié)中看到一種審慎、柔和的態(tài)度：既要尊重歷史、凸顯底蘊(yùn)，又要努力與這個(gè)時(shí)代的審美相結(jié)合。更具現(xiàn)代感的設(shè)計(jì)，正小心翼翼地融入金剛碑，這像是一個(gè)年輕人與老者的對(duì)話(huà)，試圖彰顯自己的藝術(shù)主張，同時(shí)又不得不考慮對(duì)方的接納程度。

地處溪谷山澗中的金剛碑，空間上的延伸始終受制于兩側(cè)的高山。在現(xiàn)代建筑元素的加持下，這種局促正在被打破。鏡面、玻璃幕墻的大量運(yùn)用，擴(kuò)寬了視覺(jué)中的金剛碑。在光的反射下，古樹(shù)、建筑、行人都被1：1復(fù)制出來(lái)，眼前的世界與鏡中的世界交織在一起，打破了幾百年來(lái)金剛碑的固有光影形態(tài)，妙趣橫生。

透過(guò)鏡像中的金剛碑，我們捕捉到的不只是古老的村落，還有自己行走其間的身影，歷史與當(dāng)下交錯(cuò)在鏡面內(nèi)外，以更加強(qiáng)烈的反差感沖擊著我們的視野。老街、建筑、人，無(wú)不在其中。

細(xì)心的人會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)，“營(yíng)造者物語(yǔ)”以小小的字跡寫(xiě)在墻角處，低調(diào)卻又無(wú)處不在，成為金剛碑新的烙印。大大小小的人物在金剛碑留下過(guò)故事，今天的人們又何嘗不想將自己也鐫刻在歷史中。

于縉云山而言，金剛碑是山腳下渺小的存在，行走在金剛碑的我們更是時(shí)間長(zhǎng)河里的一粒沙?？墒牵偌?xì)碎的沙子都會(huì)在時(shí)間之鏡留下痕跡，我們和金剛碑，都將在時(shí)間里不斷前行，在鏡面的反射中，學(xué)會(huì)如何更好地去觀照當(dāng)下的自己，享受行走在金剛碑的這段時(shí)光。

King Kong Monument was once called "the most remote village in ancient Yuzhou". Perhaps it was the remoteness and seclusion that allowed it to grow and change slowly in its own way.

Today， we see a prudent and soft attitude in all kinds of repairing details： it is important to respect history and highlight the heritage， but also to try to combine with the aesthetics of this era. A more contemporary design is being carefully integrated into the King Kong Monument. It is like a dialogue between a young man and an old man， trying to manifest his artistic proposition while having to consider the other’s acceptance.

Located in the valley and mountain stream， the spatial extension of King Kong Monument is always restricted by the high mountains on both sides. With the blessing of modern architectural elements， this constraint is being broken. The extensive use of mirror and glass curtain walls broadens the King Kong Monument in vision. In the reflection of the light， ancient trees， buildings and pedestrians are replicated one to one. The world in front of us is intertwined with the world in the mirror， breaking the inherent light and shadow form of King Kong Monument for hundreds of years， which is full of fun and humor.

Through the King Kong Monument in the mirror image， we capture not only the ancient villages， but also our own figures walking in it. History and the present are intertwined inside and outside the mirror， impacting our vision with a stronger sense of contrast. Old streets， buildings and people are all in it.

Attentive people will find that "The Story of the Builder" was written in small handwriting in the corner， which is low-key but ubiquitous， and has become a new brand of King Kong Monument. People， great and small， have left their stories in King Kong Monument， but today’s people also want to engrave themselves in history.

Compared with Jinyun Mountain， the King Kong Monument at the foot of the mountain is negligible. And we are a grain of sand in the long river of time walking in King Kong Monument. However， even the finest sand will leave traces in the mirror of time. We， and King Kong Monument， will both keep moving forward in time， learning how to better observe ourselves in the present moment in the reflection of the mirror， and enjoying our walk in King Kong Monumen.