姚桃娟

鳴鶴群山環(huán)繞，依山面湖，鐘靈毓秀，自古以來(lái)名人輩出，人文薈萃，沉淀了深厚燦爛的地方文化。除了是國(guó)藥從業(yè)者心中的圣地，一度也是浙東的文化中心。

鳴鶴位于浙江省慈溪市境內(nèi)，與舊時(shí)慈溪縣治慈城橫隔連綿的大隱五磊山脈。與國(guó)內(nèi)其他古鎮(zhèn)依河而建不同，鳴鶴古鎮(zhèn)依白洋湖而建——瀕白洋湖、杜若湖，近接上林湖。清代著名詩(shī)人、畫(huà)家姚燮在《白湖吟舍雅集序》中贊嘆道：“是湖也，為勾章西北一大勝，其南大隱、五磊諸峰蜿蜒亙數(shù)百余里，至是而勢(shì)一束，北則伏龍諸山，遙遙作屏障。天風(fēng)海云，時(shí)挾清氣，往來(lái)于其間，為林泉之幽邃，花鳥(niǎo)之綿麗，有無(wú)待言?！笨梢?jiàn)其地理風(fēng)水之佳。

鳴鶴，也稱鶴皋，始建于唐開(kāi)元年間，因唐名臣虞世南之孫虞九皋而得名。“九皋，字鳴鶴，第進(jìn)士不久而歿于京，鄉(xiāng)人哀之，稱其故里為鳴鶴?！碧扑螘r(shí)為浙東主要鹽場(chǎng)，明洪武十五年（1392年）設(shè)鳴鶴鹽課司，所以當(dāng)?shù)厝硕喾Q為“鳴鶴場(chǎng)”。鳴鶴群山環(huán)繞，依山面湖，鐘靈毓秀，自古以來(lái)名人輩出，人文薈萃，沉淀了深厚燦爛的地方文化。

竹枝詞里看鳴鶴

“三板紅舩獨(dú)櫓搖，春風(fēng)游女尚垂髫。東西一一逢橋數(shù)，記取陡塘第七橋?！睆逆?zhèn)東南濱湖進(jìn)入，在湖堤與街河轉(zhuǎn)折處可看到一座拱形石橋，這就是陡塘橋。古老的石拱橋，似乎在訴說(shuō)著歲月的滄桑。從陡塘橋到沙灘橋，依河長(zhǎng)街約有百米多長(zhǎng)，廊棚相連，兩岸商鋪鱗次櫛比，依稀可見(jiàn)當(dāng)年河中舟楫、河上石橋、河邊商貿(mào)的熱鬧場(chǎng)景，依稀可聞耳畔響起“我家住在白湖涯，湖水東流斜復(fù)斜。記得靜觀樓夜月，尊前一曲浪淘沙”的竹枝棹歌。

白湖竹枝詞由清時(shí)鳴鶴人葉聲聞首倡，時(shí)人相和，“繕稿成軼，題詠如林”，現(xiàn)存的包括葉聲聞、葉愚、葉元塏等所作計(jì)有92首。白湖竹枝詞以民歌形式，多視角展示了鳴鶴的田園風(fēng)光、農(nóng)作市肆、歲時(shí)風(fēng)俗、湖上風(fēng)物、人物掌故，是一幅幅由文字展示的《清明上河圖》。

“水接雙河瀲滟開(kāi)，江分兩邑只山隈。天明塘上聲喧鬧，趨市姚人續(xù)續(xù)來(lái)”“白蝦青蟹一時(shí)貴，小艇迎來(lái)販客多”“曉來(lái)抱來(lái)街頭去，換得青蚨糴米鹽”“海鮮河羹多來(lái)集，賣(mài)向街頭換米柴”，展示了沿河市肆的熱鬧繁華、物產(chǎn)富饒，以及集市在當(dāng)?shù)氐奈Α?/p>

“三更姑惡葦邊啼，兩岸茅居竹作籬;梅子熟時(shí)看播谷，楝花開(kāi)后聽(tīng)繅絲”“湖頭大麥已登場(chǎng)，湖尾齊齊小麥黃”“夕陽(yáng)一片樵歌起，得得挑來(lái)夏白柴”“籬下篝燈夜紡棉，織成廣幅賽吳縑”，向我們描繪了舊時(shí)鳴鶴的田園景象及生活勞動(dòng)場(chǎng)景。

“蜂須蝶粉鬧春華，夾岸芬芳桃李家”“餉客莫嫌無(wú)長(zhǎng)物，湖中美味有銀魚(yú)”“滿村紅爛楊梅熟”、“次第薰風(fēng)拂芰荷”，湖上風(fēng)物涌入眼前。

“怪道游人如蟻集，今年社火勝前年”“一簇紅妝聞笑語(yǔ)，湖西山下踏青歸”“正值中秋明月夜，闐闐簫鼓鬧龍舟”，展現(xiàn)了社火明滅、游人如蟻的歲時(shí)民俗風(fēng)情。

白湖竹枝詞里還有著鳴鶴豐富的人文歷史掌故。“西山大隱著先聲，西信庵前石亦清;不道前賢棲跡處，還教巖岫共埋名”，說(shuō)隱山為宋令方軫棲居處，故名隱山。自古隱山多隱士，晉有虞喜，宋有方軫，并因此而出名。還有說(shuō)金仙寺的：“古寺莊嚴(yán)法象雄，一聯(lián)佳句憶羅公”;有說(shuō)金仙寺米芾碑、曇噩碑的：“碑傳米芾見(jiàn)應(yīng)稀，曇噩猶存蘚作衣”;有說(shuō)明代杜光祿祠的“殲倭光祿有奇勛，主簿分麾力亦勤”、明代彭公祠的“橋轉(zhuǎn)沙灘迤邐長(zhǎng)，彭公祠外水汪洋”。這些志士仁人、文人墨客，為湖光山色增光添輝。

六房大屋故事多

從彭公祠前折而向西，過(guò)沙灘橋，有一條東西流向的河與街相交。往南看，瀕白洋湖一抹山丘;往西看，略呈弧形的隱山如曲臂環(huán)抱，在山水回環(huán)中，就是白湖竹枝詞中所寫(xiě)的“煙火一望數(shù)千家”。一座座毗鄰而立的豪宅大院，仿佛訴說(shuō)著鳴鶴曾經(jīng)的繁華富足甚至奢侈。

這些建筑大部分都是清乾嘉年間鳴鶴人經(jīng)營(yíng)藥業(yè)發(fā)家致富后，回鄉(xiāng)購(gòu)地建宅留下來(lái)的。那時(shí)鳴鶴十戶有八九戶外出謀生，他們親幫親、鄰幫鄰，帶出去開(kāi)藥鋪，足跡遍及省內(nèi)外，開(kāi)張的藥鋪店號(hào)難計(jì)其數(shù)，帶動(dòng)起一個(gè)紅紅火火的醫(yī)藥產(chǎn)業(yè)。溫州葉同仁前身同仁堂，是葉心培家族的;杭州葉種德堂前身種德堂，是葉譜山創(chuàng)辦的……所以至今業(yè)內(nèi)還流傳著“全國(guó)藥業(yè)出浙江，浙江藥業(yè)在鳴鶴”的說(shuō)法，鳴鶴成為國(guó)藥從業(yè)者心中的圣地。

鳴鶴葉氏素稱東南望族，“自宋季遷居于鶴皋以來(lái)，讀書(shū)為士君子者麻列”，至清乾嘉年間，葉氏一族尤以國(guó)藥業(yè)和詩(shī)文聞名遐邇。“慈水葉意亭比部居鶴山之麓，昆弟六人，曰艾庵，曰白湖，曰譜山，曰星五，皆有詩(shī)名，比部其季也，門(mén)才之能為邑首?！币葬t(yī)藥產(chǎn)業(yè)為經(jīng)濟(jì)基礎(chǔ)，葉氏家族建書(shū)院立詩(shī)社，詩(shī)書(shū)傳家，風(fēng)流文采照耀一時(shí)。

今天如走在青石板小巷，留意一下門(mén)牌號(hào)，你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)“三房路”“五房路”“六房路”等字樣，其間坐落著六座豪宅大院，被稱為“葉六房大屋”，這是鳴鶴國(guó)藥巨子葉天霖為六房?jī)鹤咏ㄔ斓摹?/p>

三房葉燕，字載之，號(hào)白湖，又號(hào)次庵，嘉慶三年舉人，候選教諭。著有《白湖詩(shī)稿》《林湖草》等。據(jù)《慈溪縣志》記載：“（葉燕）少負(fù)異稟，為文千言立就。長(zhǎng)從鄞蔣學(xué)鏞游，為根柢之學(xué)，涉獵經(jīng)史，窮理極要?！痹鴰煆膶幉ㄋ奕迨Y學(xué)鏞，愛(ài)憎分明，愛(ài)打抱不平，在《白湖詩(shī)稿》中時(shí)不時(shí)地用詩(shī)懟人。

在兄弟六房中，個(gè)性豪爽慷慨仗義的是四房“四太公”葉煥。葉煥（1757-1820），字春陽(yáng)，號(hào)譜山，曾任長(zhǎng)蘆（天津）鹽運(yùn)司運(yùn)判、刑部山東司郎中，有詩(shī)集《水石居遺稿》。葉煥能文能武，亦官亦商，長(zhǎng)于謀事，又有魄力擔(dān)當(dāng)，在家族內(nèi)外享有極高的威望，時(shí)人尊為“四太公”。他年輕時(shí)治經(jīng)應(yīng)試，后因長(zhǎng)于處理各種事務(wù)，葉天霖就把家政大事交給他，讓他“內(nèi)訓(xùn)誡子弟，外接待賓友”。42歲后科考出仕，為長(zhǎng)蘆（天津）鹽運(yùn)司運(yùn)判，十幾年后又遷為刑部山東司郎中。江蘇無(wú)錫人吳德旋在《墓表》中寫(xiě)葉譜山：“晚歲留意讀方書(shū)，專(zhuān)拯人厄。有告之疾，親持藥餌，往為診脈，視所宜用藥藥之，以為常。嗣后張藥肆於杭州署，堂曰種德。以見(jiàn)意焉。”體現(xiàn)了他仗義慷慨、樂(lè)善好施的個(gè)性。

葉譜山鮮明的個(gè)性特征，常被兄弟寫(xiě)入詩(shī)中。他任長(zhǎng)蘆（天津）鹽運(yùn)司運(yùn)判時(shí)，曾寫(xiě)信給小弟葉煒，大概意思是嫌那地方太窮了，吃沒(méi)吃的，穿沒(méi)穿的，四兄我不想干了。葉煒寫(xiě)詩(shī)回復(fù)他：“天津風(fēng)景似江南，亥市人稠百物廉。猶記去年系舟處，壓街魚(yú)蟹賤于鹽?！蹦阏f(shuō)這四兄安不安分？

葉譜山大概是在嘉慶十三年（1808年）辭官后，在杭州開(kāi)種德堂的，那年他已54歲，在此年齡再闖江湖創(chuàng)辦藥鋪，可見(jiàn)他的魄力自信和對(duì)當(dāng)時(shí)國(guó)藥業(yè)整個(gè)業(yè)態(tài)的掌控與駕馭能力。堂名“種德”取蘇東坡《種德亭》詩(shī)“名隨市人隱，德與佳木長(zhǎng)”意。種德堂自制丸散膏藥，經(jīng)營(yíng)地道藥材，聞名浙、贛、皖、閩等省，成為當(dāng)時(shí)整個(gè)杭州國(guó)藥業(yè)的翹楚。種德堂現(xiàn)稱杭州葉種德堂，已并入胡慶余堂，其店堂原貌尚存。

葉譜山的后人中，有個(gè)叫葉鴻年的，生平仗義疏財(cái)，熱心社會(huì)公益，先后捐資萬(wàn)余金，疏浚家鄉(xiāng)白洋湖，重修佛國(guó)金仙寺。至今民間還有“鹽倉(cāng)挖空，葉鴻年督工”的說(shuō)法。他重視地方教育，創(chuàng)立敬樂(lè)小學(xué)和柔強(qiáng)女子學(xué)校，得到孫中山的嘉勉，贈(zèng)送“年高德劭”金字匾額一塊。其作派真可謂與乃祖一脈相承。

“孝悌忠信”是中國(guó)人為人處世的基本原則，“悌”即尊敬兄長(zhǎng)，兄弟和睦。葉氏六兄弟擁有優(yōu)越的生活條件，可以稱得上是“富二代”。但他們并沒(méi)有驕縱蠻橫的壞毛病，“家富而性高雅，不染豪華習(xí)氣”。他們孝親睦友，勤勉刻苦，樂(lè)善好施，行德鄉(xiāng)里。

據(jù)《慈溪縣志》記載：“（葉煒）獨(dú)任白湖堤及杜湖兩碶一閘，用白金千兩有奇，一歲工竣。”“煒建白湖堤方竣而沒(méi)，元墀承志復(fù)筑杜湖石堤，未成，又沒(méi)。遺命其弟元堦競(jìng)之，鄉(xiāng)人德焉。”葉煒修筑完白湖堤后，去世了;他兒子葉元墀繼承他的遺志繼續(xù)修筑杜湖石堤，還沒(méi)有完成，也去世了;其弟葉元堦又繼續(xù)父兄修筑湖堤的遺志，繼續(xù)修筑。葉煒父子修筑湖堤的事跡，就如愚公移山，子承父志，弟承兄志，下定決心，堅(jiān)持到底，生命不息，筑堤不止，其事跡充滿了改造自然的悲壯情懷，令人動(dòng)容。

經(jīng)過(guò)兩百多年的時(shí)光激蕩，眼前的六房大屋僅余下幾幢還保有原貌，讓人憑吊傷懷。但如果我們知道其中的故事，那么眼前的大屋就不只是冷冰冰的磚瓦椽梁，而是有溫度、有故事的棲居家園，空氣中都彌漫著主人的歡笑悲歌、跫音觸痕，他們就是我們的“前人”“古人”。注視著他們遠(yuǎn)去的背影，我們當(dāng)心懷敬仰和感恩。

風(fēng)雅誰(shuí)比白湖社

“四圍山色四時(shí)清，一派湖光一鏡平。曾向鏡湖亭畔過(guò)，鷗飛閣上讀書(shū)聲。”白洋湖、杜若湖碧波蕩漾，孕育滋養(yǎng)了鳴鶴燦爛的歷史文化。兩百年前，鳴鶴葉氏士子就在白洋湖畔結(jié)社吟詩(shī)，一門(mén)倡和，名動(dòng)浙東，構(gòu)成了鳴鶴最風(fēng)雅最美麗的風(fēng)景。

鳴鶴葉氏素為慈東望族，清時(shí)更以藥業(yè)和詩(shī)文名聞一時(shí)，出現(xiàn)父子同為進(jìn)士、舉人，父子、兄弟、伯侄同為詩(shī)人的奇跡。葉天霖有六個(gè)兒子，這兄弟六人除長(zhǎng)兄葉榮外，皆有詩(shī)名，老二葉聲聞、老三葉燕、老四葉譜山、老五葉燦、老六葉煒，皆有詩(shī)集問(wèn)世。時(shí)人評(píng)價(jià)道：“兄弟一門(mén)相酬倡，或乘興與二三知己放棹白湖，挈杯傳花吟嘯風(fēng)月，見(jiàn)者有宗之太白?！?/p>

至下一代元字輩，文風(fēng)尤盛，葉煒兒子葉元墀、葉元堦在他父親和幾位伯父的影響下，在鳴鶴主盟成立白湖詩(shī)社，吸引了當(dāng)時(shí)浙東名家姚燮、厲志、孫家谷的積極參與。自嘉慶元年到道光年間，白湖詩(shī)社繁榮發(fā)展約40余年。在此期間，詩(shī)人們“運(yùn)斗以酌，扣舷而唱”，詩(shī)歌創(chuàng)作一派繁榮，吟詩(shī)作文，結(jié)集刻印的作品多達(dá)32種近80卷，為浙東詩(shī)壇佳話。

此外，葉氏白湖詩(shī)社成員憑著家族雄厚的經(jīng)濟(jì)實(shí)力和精準(zhǔn)的藝術(shù)眼光，還收藏了大量的字畫(huà)精品。葉聲聞的兒子葉元封，愛(ài)好作詩(shī)，著有《湖海閣詩(shī)稿》，他于道光年間刻成《湖海閣藏帖》八卷流傳至今?！逗ｉw藏帖》共刻石九十一方，囊括了明清七十七位書(shū)家的作品，堪稱洋洋大觀。而帖中書(shū)家，以江浙一帶的名家名作為多。如：有明代沈度小楷《大悲閣記》、王守仁行書(shū)《論聚會(huì)規(guī)程》、祝允明行書(shū)《桑寄生傳》、文徵明小楷《滕王閣序并詩(shī)》、董其昌行書(shū)《書(shū)王維、岑參、杜甫七律詩(shī)》，有清代姜宸英小楷《圣駕巡行江浙頌》、王士禎行書(shū)《與老年兄書(shū)》、鄭燮行書(shū)《題畫(huà)蘭》等。藏帖同時(shí)烙下了家族文化的印記，在第八卷中刻入葉聲聞的數(shù)件作品，如行書(shū)《寄懷四香、少仙二詞長(zhǎng)》、行書(shū)《白湖竹枝詞三十首》等。

白洋湖畔，詩(shī)文書(shū)畫(huà)，妙筆生花，可謂極一時(shí)之盛。湖光山色，詩(shī)畫(huà)增輝，吸引了甬、紹、杭等地文人名士，徜徉湖光云影間，成為浙東文化一時(shí)的中心。

浙東名家蔣寶齡曾在道光十五年（1835）作《白湖秋泛圖》，題詩(shī)曰：“兩峰入煙遠(yuǎn)逾碧，一水涵空夜還白;勝情誰(shuí)及賢弟昆，載酒清游復(fù)招客……”展現(xiàn)了鳴鶴白湖的詩(shī)情畫(huà)意。

今日漫步白洋湖畔，看湖面波光如鱗，回想前輩鄉(xiāng)賢的用心歌吟，感受他們的魂魄精神，正所謂：山水依舊，詩(shī)歌不老。

Minghe is an ancient town in Cixi， a municipality in eastern Zhejiang. It is not far from Cicheng， the capital of Cixi County in good old days. Unlike many ancient towns nestled along a river， Minghe is next to Baiyang Lake and Duruo Lake and not far from Shanglin Lake， one of the better known lakes in eastern Zhejiang.

The town is named after Yu Minghe， a grandson of Yue Shinan who was a celebrated minister and calligrapher of the Tang Dynasty （618-907）. The grandson died young shortly after he came out a winner in the imperial examination. He died in Changan， the capital of the dynasty. The people in his hometown in Cixi mourned him and named the town after him.

The name remains unchanged. The scenic beauty of Minghe remains vivid and fascinating in numerous ancient poems that have come down into history. Ninety-two poems written in the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911） were dedicated to Minghe. These poems sing of the cultural and historical glory of the lakeside town.

Today， the lakes remain scenic. Some grand houses built in the Qing Dynasty still stand to testify to the past glory of the town. These grand houses were largely built in the late 18th century and early 19th century with the wealth earned by local businesspeople that operated traditional pharmacies in both Zhejiang and beyond.

In the past， a typical traditional Chinese pharmacy functioned like a modern pharmaceutical and pharmacy in one. They had recipes and produced medicines. They purchased and processed herbals so that pharmacies catered to patients who came to get medicines prescribed by doctors who practiced traditional Chinese medicine （TCM）. TCM pharmacies in Zhejiang led the whole country in the Qing Dynasty. And of all the TCM pharmacies of Zhejiang， those operated by pharmacy businesspeople in Minghe were industrial pioneers.

The success of Minghe as a powerhouse of pharmacy operations can be attributed to education and business tradition in town. Many people in town were well educated. Some successfully passed imperial examination and became government officials. Though many well-educated natives of Minghe became pharmacy operators， some of them were also poets， as testified by poems they left behind.

Most of these grand houses in the town were built by successful TCM pharmacy tycoons. The best known of these tycoons were six brothers of the Ye clan. The six brothers built six houses next to each other. These houses were financed and built for the six sons by Ye Tianlin， the TCM pharmacy tycoon. Of the six brothers， five wrote poems. They organized a poetry society and many scholars in eastern Zhejiang were members of the society. The society printed 32 titles of poetry collections in nearly 80 volumes. The Ye clan not only produced TCM pharmacy tycoons and poets but also some art collectors. Based on the precious masterpieces in the collection， an eight-book calligraphy collection was printed in the mid 19th century. In the first few decades of the 19th century， Minghe was a cultural center in eastern Zhejiang.

Of the six brothers， Ye Pushan started his pharmacy business in Hangzhou at 54 after he gave up his government career in 1808. The pharmacy made a great variety of TCM drugs which sold pretty well in Zhejiang and neighboring provinces. Processed herbal ingredients contributed a great deal to the pharmacys profitability and reputation.

Minghe， now a provincial town of culture and history， the only one of its kind in Cixi， is more than grand houses and TCM pharmacies. Jinxian Temple， a Buddhist sanctuary in town on Baiyang Lake， can be traced back to the sixth century. Before TCM pharmacy business became the dominant pillar of the towns economy， Minghe was a farm products trade center. In the early Ming Dynasty （1368-1644）， the town housed a government office dedicated to salt production administration as Minghe is not far from the sea. The pharmacy business in Minghe prospered in the Qing dynasty. Today， a TCM museum in town exhibits over 150 trademarks of herbal medicines made by pharmaceutical/pharmacy businesses based in Minghe and beyond.