文/Jeffrey Christopher Maher （美） 譯/史聰一

夜晚的廣州塔

也許，最初吸引我的，是這里的“造型”——無論是廣州歌劇院凹凸有致的曲面造型，廣東博物館內(nèi)漆器盒般錯綜復(fù)雜的形狀和神秘瑰寶，還是廣州塔高聳、直曲并濟的幾何形狀，都十分具有標志性。作為一名初到中國的資深教育工作者，我覺得在接下來的兩年中，非常有必要了解這里——一個風景旖旎，并將成為家的地方。我將從自身的角度來審視今日的中國——一個正在對自身進行“重塑”，并擁有強大人際關(guān)系（人情）的國度。我將從我的所見所聞與經(jīng)歷向你們娓娓道來。

我自由行前往廣州這個大都會，深感震撼，無以言表。這里，一切都交織如錦，令我如履多維世界：過去、現(xiàn)在、未來相平行；傳統(tǒng)、創(chuàng)新、憧憬相融合。任教于今日的中國，我便如同一輛高速行駛的列車，在新舊格局中轉(zhuǎn)換。

置身于這座現(xiàn)代化的博物館，我漫步在端硯展臺之列，陶醉于設(shè)計的藝術(shù)感及豐富的象征意義。最終，在經(jīng)過重建的學(xué)者書房前，我停下了腳步。凝望著水晶般的端硯，我霎時間有所頓悟——正如親眼所見，今天的中國，正站在其偉大祖先的肩膀上，將后者的智慧結(jié)晶（工具及裝備）發(fā)揚光大：這不僅是一個擁有豐富歷史與傳統(tǒng)的國家，更是一個人民不屈不撓、矢志不渝的國家。

今天的中國，不僅在展望未來，也在回顧反思；這是一個奔著目標快速發(fā)展的國家。我相信這才是中國所取得的輝煌成就：有規(guī)劃、有紀律，富有發(fā)展動力。從農(nóng)村到城市，從貧瘠到繁榮，從模擬到數(shù)字化，從落后到進步，這一切，僅用了一代人的時間。即便在動態(tài)數(shù)據(jù)并不完備的情況下，中國仍在不斷完成既定計劃。

自擔任香江國際高中校長一職，我在最初的廣州之旅中，對中國的第一印象都有了進一步的加深。從電梯間的邂逅，到充滿儀式感的宴會，從公寓陽臺對樓下庭院的觀察，再到與同事的日常相處，我皆陶醉于此，并為此感到欣慰。我明白，自己是多么幸運，能夠直接地并從超越個人視角的層面，向度假的游客們講述21世紀的變革性事件——中國的興起，或許，對我這位前歷史老師來說，更準確的表述是：中國，正在對自身在19世紀前的全球地位進行重塑。

穿越在人民南路的街道，從鎮(zhèn)安路走到仁濟路，最后一直來到沙面島，我都能感受到這種“重塑”。沿著這條路線，歷史感、時代感交錯縱橫，時光倒流，恍如隔世。不一會兒，我便瞧見了一排商業(yè)店鋪，其地點位于“十三行”的遺址之上：這種商業(yè)景象始于明初，不僅彰顯了當時的文化與國力，還是這個港口城市海上實力的印證。隨后，我徜徉在巴洛克式、哥特式以及新古典主義相融合的氛圍之中——這是一種融會東西的產(chǎn)物，讓游客感到舒適與熟悉。

揮舞著團隊小旗的導(dǎo)游們徘徊在我的周圍；叫賣飾品的小販數(shù)不勝數(shù)，真正的傳統(tǒng)手工藝品比比皆是。所有的時代，共同構(gòu)成了今日中國，此壯舉既非僅僅有意為之，也非僅僅濃縮的精華；這一切都是古今相結(jié)合的再創(chuàng)造。

今天的中國，社會各階層都在不遺余力地保護其珍貴遺產(chǎn)，并在秉承自身設(shè)計的基礎(chǔ)上追求全球化視野。每天清晨，當經(jīng)過學(xué)校入口門廳的孔夫子雕像時，我都會想起這兩個并列的主題：中國傳統(tǒng)與全球化視野。多少個夜晚，我羨慕地望著一些就居住在周圍高層內(nèi)的中年婦女們，她們聚集于公寓陽臺之下，集體練習著太極；而在旁邊不遠的地方，男孩們正在籃球場上奔跑。強身健體的傳統(tǒng)運動，與風靡全球的體育運動，二者在這里交匯。

從陽臺上眺望，處處皆是祥和之意，時至今日，我尚未嗅到任何沖突的氣息，無論是在任何群體內(nèi)部，還是在不同的群體之間。我明白：這樣的沖突是存在的；這不是我天真，也并非尋求一種羅曼蒂克式的看法。我突然在想，這樣的社會凝聚力，難道不就是某種鄉(xiāng)村的真實寫照，映射在這些現(xiàn)代住宅上嗎？通過社會滲透，那些陳舊但卻美好的事物，是在新事物上涅槃重生的嗎？這一切是有意為之嗎？或許，這是早期社會風氣的殘余，注定會在消費主義與社會異化的沖擊下灰飛煙滅？對此，我不得而知。 然而，當我經(jīng)常站在高處觀察眼下這些活動時，一切都顯得獨特且別具一格。

當陳舊的社會、族群以及家庭模式被增長與發(fā)展不斷重塑時，將會呈現(xiàn)出怎樣全新的社會單元呢？而這些單元，會如我所觀察到的那樣被改造嗎？祖父母還會繼續(xù)同子孫同處一個屋檐之下嗎？這些奇妙的觀察為多代家庭的可持續(xù)性提供了定量的證據(jù)：到處都是推著嬰兒車的祖父母們，而車上所承載的，正是他們的下一代。然而，我也看到一些報道，表示現(xiàn)在的雙親家庭結(jié)構(gòu)，使得老年人感覺自己受到了利用。一些老人不滿足于呵護子孫。此類問題，以及難以計數(shù)的其他社會經(jīng)濟問題，又將會導(dǎo)致怎樣的結(jié)果呢？

輾轉(zhuǎn)至千里之外的北京，在每日清晨的《中國日報》評論中，我閱悉到一些“信號”，例如，在首都博物館舉行的秦漢文明開館儀式，好像就在當日，習近平主席同參與“一帶一路”倡議的國家簽署了相關(guān)協(xié)議。李華一的當代山水畫目前也在蘇州博物館列展，將人們的思緒牽引到宋代……而后，習主席又宣布了關(guān)于汽車電氣化的相關(guān)國家目標。這樣的例子一個接著一個，從不間斷，但卻不斷變化。

然而，無論是工作關(guān)系，還是私人關(guān)系，在同中國人民的相處中，最令我動容的，還是今日我眼中的中國。如果有這樣一種足夠宏大，且具有影響力的隱喻真實存在，那便只有中國本身了。她的廣袤、多樣性與活力，讓我聯(lián)想到無數(shù)大大小小的、正式與非正式的，以及計劃性和特殊性的例子，并感到自己便是“中國夢”的一部分。

在中國，我一直覺得自己受到了歡迎。八月，我來中國的第一天，一位辦公室的同事邀請我與她年幼的兒子共進早餐。于是，我在中國的第一餐便開啟了正宗模式。當?shù)谝淮斡每曜訆A起飯菜送入嘴中，其中的味道、香氣以及口感非常奇特。嗅覺與味覺通過舌尖與神經(jīng)相連接，充滿了新奇感與趣味感。在這位名叫泰格（Tiger）的六歲男孩及其母親的陪伴下，我與他們的狂歡持續(xù)了一小會兒，與餐桌對面的新朋友們聊天，讓我感覺：缺少了他人的陪伴，任何食物都不過是果腹之物。

我與同事們共進了諸多“晚餐”，這其中既有工作的樂趣，也有細品茅臺后的喜悅，我的確花了很多時間，來培養(yǎng)信任與尊重。一頓晚餐卻永遠留在記憶中。應(yīng)一位同事的邀請，我與一位朋友來到珠江附近的一家餐廳，竟然發(fā)現(xiàn)：我的同事與她的丈夫和女兒正在一間私人餐廳內(nèi)靜候我們的到來。在一個遠離家鄉(xiāng)與親朋好友的周六夜晚，這一切足以成為萬能的思鄉(xiāng)解藥。正當我們興致勃勃地聊著自己能夠想到的一切，包括工作、家庭、孩子，她的女兒貝拉（Bella）也讓我不斷地想起自己女兒多年前的模樣——我也一直在思考那一刻的感受：那便是被歡迎、被溫暖，以及被接受的感覺。

這一切，都發(fā)生在開餐之前。食物被放入火鍋之中，這種“飲食文化”的每一過程，都使我的內(nèi)心情感不斷升溫。當晚餐伊始，粥的香氣已在肉汁的混合中彌漫開來，我仿佛感覺自己正置身于最美的中國文化之中，時間也就這樣放慢了步調(diào)。餐后，即使因忘帶護照而不得不放棄的乘船夜游，我們同樣認為這是一種快樂，一種意想不到的快樂：我們一邊喝著飲料，一邊駐足河岸，觀察來往的行人。

或是校門口的保安微笑，或是辦公區(qū)負責保潔的瘦小婦人，又或是公共汽車司機，還可能是附近商業(yè)區(qū)內(nèi)難以計數(shù)的商人，他們的微笑充滿真誠。也許，與西方普遍存在的社會疏離感及個人焦慮相比，中國日常生活中節(jié)奏，反倒能讓人感到一種溫文爾雅。即便我活在當下，對于中國文化的了解依然膚淺。

在中國的這段歲月，我已然熟悉豐富多彩的景象、聲音與口味，就如粵菜的豐盛與質(zhì)感。在結(jié)束這里的生活前，我將享受來自這里的一切。學(xué)生們是最純潔的；他們純粹出于好奇心，并醞釀著最純粹的信念，即那種與世界各地的人文風俗進行接觸了解的強烈渴望?；蛟S，他們還會把學(xué)到的東西越來越多地帶回中國。也許，這些學(xué)生就是中國下一發(fā)展階段的寄托。

Perhaps it was the shapes－jutting curvilinear angles of the Guangzhou Opera House, the lacquer box-like intricacies with the promise of treasures within of the Guangdong Museum, and, of course the soaring, twisted geometry of the iconic Guangzhou Tower. As a veteran educator new to China, I felt it my duty to learn the landscape of the area I would call home for the next two years. I offer my perspective of China today, one of national reclamation and the power personal relationships, as processed through all my senses.

In self-guided tour of the core of the Guangzhou metropolis, I felt stunned, speechless. Everywhere, to everything I turned felt in juxtaposition. Past. Present. Future. Tradition. Innovation. Vision. Teaching in China at this moment in history is to be in motion at bullet-train velocity along a highway in constant bisection of the old and the new.

As I strolled through the Duan Stone Exhibit at this most modern of museums, enjoying the artistry of design and rich symbolism, I stopped at length in front of the recreated scholar’s study. Here,in a moment of crystalline epiphany, I visualized all that China is today through the tools and accoutrements of the learned gentlemen of the past: a country rich in history and tradition, yet a nation irrevocably determined to claim a place in the future commensurate with its achievements, scale, and the indefatigable energy of its people.

Today’s China plans forward and thinks back; it is a nation jumping ahead to what it views as its rightful place. And this I believe is China’s singular accomplishment: intentional, compressed, almost ‘zip-drive’- like development. In little more than a generation from village to city, poverty to prosperity, analog to digital, backward to forward. And even where these dynamics are incomplete, there are plans to complete the job.

As I’ve gone about the duties of Principal at Xiangjiang International High School since August, my initial impressions of China during my early tourist explorations of Guangzhou City have only deepened in texture and substance. From elevator encounters to ritualized banquet dinner meetings, from apartment balcony observations of the courtyard below to quotidian office conversations with colleagues, I revel in sensory overload and am grateful for it. I understand how fortunate I am to develop direct, personal perspective beyond that possible to the holiday visitor about the transformative event of the 21stCentury－the rise of China－or, perhaps more accurately to this former history teacherthe reclamation of China’s pre-19 Century global status.

I felt this sense of ‘reclamation’ most vividly as I traversed the street grid of Renmin Road South, starting from Zhen-an Road and ending on Ren-ji Road, and then over to Sha-mian Island. Along this route, historical eras intersect, and time distorts. In one moment I am seeing rows of businesses on sites of the original Thirteen Hongs first established in the Ming Dynasty, an era reflective of national strength and culture, and of the maritime power of this port-city. In the next I am walking past renditions of Baroque, Gothic, and Neo-Classical architecture－a West-meets-East mash-up which while comfortable and familiar to the touristconjures the ignominy, coercion, and oppression of colonial rule.

Tour groups with pennant-waving guides buzz about me; vendors hawking trinkets as well true traditional crafts abound. All eras form a necessary part of the equation that is China today－an accomplishment not simply intentional or compressed; but, also, reclaimed.

Throughout China today societal-wide exertion of exponential strength tries to hold onto its precious heritage while pursuing a global vision of its own design. Each morning I am reminded of this juxtaposition leitmotif as I pass by the Kongzi statue on my way through the entrance foyer of our school with its newly-minted school mission statement: Chinese Tradition; Global Vision. Many evenings I watch in admiration as the middle-aged ladies who live in the high-rise residences around me gather below my apartment balcony to practice Tai Chi while a few meters to the side young men play basketball. Traditional physical movement alongside modern, global sport.

And all appears in social harmony from my balcony view as I have not heard a single argument within or between groups. I know such conflict exists; I am not naive nor seek to romanticize perceptions. While perhaps a flight of fancy on my part, could it be this social cohesion has somehow been imprinted on these modern dwellings from some sort of village palimpsest? Can the effort to retain the best of the old recast itself on the new through a social osmosis? Could it be purposeful? Or is it a lingering remnant of an earlier ethos destined to recede before the onslaught of consumerism and social alienation. I don’t know the answer. Maybe this insight is more impression or wishful thinking; but, what I observe regularly from my perch above the physical activity below me is unique and remarkable nonetheless.

What kind of new social units will emerge as old patterns of society, community, and family are continually reshaped by growth and development? Will they be reinvented as I seem to sense from what I observe around me? Will grandparents continue to live with children and grand-children? Anecdotal observation yields quantitative proof of the sustainability of multi-generational families: there are grandparents everywhere pushing prams with the next generation on board. Yet, I also read reports of elders feeling taken advantage of by today’s two-working parent family structure. Some pushback has emerged from the older generation who seek some personal fulfillment and not simply baby-sitting duty. Where will this and countless other socio-economic issues lead?

On a level beyond the local, in each morning’s review of the China Daily News I read of an event like the opening of the Civilizations of the Qin and Han Dynasties at the Beijing Museum, while seemingly the same day President Xi signs yet another agreement with a country near or far joining in on the ‘Belt and Road Initiative’. Li Huayi’s contemporary landscape paintings, currently on display in the Suzhou Museum, strike a mood redolent of the Song masters … while President Xi announces a national goal to electrify all motor vehicles within a generation. Example after example after example of continuity and change.

In self-guided tour of the core of the Guangzhou metropolis, I felt stunned, speechless. Everywhere, to everything I turned felt in juxtaposition. Past. Present. Future. Tradition. Innovation. Vision. Teaching in China at this moment in history is to be in motion at bullet-train velocity along a highway in constant bisection of the old and the new.

It is in my professional and personal relationships with the Chinese people, however, that I am most moved by what I see in China today. The only metaphor large and powerful enough to contain it is China itself. Her expanse, diversity, and dynamism conjure for me countless examples large and small, formal and informal, planned and ad hoc of being made to feel part of the ‘Chinese Dream’.

I cannot point to one instance where I felt more ‘welcome’ than another. It could be my first Chinese morning in August when a mother who works in our office invited me to breakfast with her young son so that my first meal in China was authentic－and shared by others. As my chopsticks lifted the first morsel of xiang zheng long to mouth, unencountered tastes, smells, and textures coursed through me. Olfactory and tongue foloded neural connections with novel delights. In the company of a six-year old named Tiger and his mother, my revelry lasted a moment as the chatter of new friends across the table brought me back to this most welcome meal, as any food is merely sustenance without the company of others.

Or, it could be the many ‘dinners’ I’ve enjoyed with colleagues mixing business with pleasure, and perhaps a bit of moutai, but, truly time spent nurturing relationships of trust and respect. One dinner, especially, will forever stay embedded in memory. Invited to dine by a faculty colleague, I arrived at the restaurant close to the Pearl River with a friend to discover my colleague and her husband and daughter awaiting us in a private dinner room. On a Saturday evening, far from home, family and friends, it proved to be the perfect antidote for any homesick symptoms. As we engaged in animated conversation about all the things you might expect, work, family, children－and her daughter Bella kept reminding me of my own daughter many years ago－I kept thinking of how I felt in that moment: welcome, warm, accepted.

And this was before we started eating! As food was added in increments to the hotpot, each successive course built higher still the good feeling within. As the porridge developed in the broth by the evening repast was served, I felt enveloped by the best of Chinese culture and time slowed. Even the aborted post-dinner attempt at a river boat ride due to an absent passport proved a serendipitous pleasure as we sipped beverages while peoplewatching riverside.

Maybe it was in the many smiles－quick and genuine－of the guard at the school gate, the diminutive washer-woman who cleans the office area, the bus-driver, or the countless merchants along the nearby commercial zone. Or perhaps the tumult, noise, and sheer pace of daily life in China just feels tempered to a gentle tone through relationships so innate to living here with a culture not quite to the point of the social alienation and personal angst so prevalent in the West.

My time in China has already yielded a tapestry of sights, sounds, and tastes as varied, rich, and textured as a Cantonese menu. I relish all that lies ahead until my time living in China concludes. My students are the most pure, most unadulterated; they are pure curiosity leavened by unadulterated determination－they are fiery desire to engage with the world across the globe－and perhaps, increasingly, to bring back what they learn to China. In these students perhaps resides China’s next stage of development.