祝芷媛

7月17日，杭城正式入伏，熱氣裹挾了整座城市，行人步履匆匆，渴望一口清涼的茶來(lái)緩解這樣的暑意。

“叮鈴鈴”，上午10點(diǎn)，一個(gè)寫著“最美涼茶鋪”的簡(jiǎn)易小車攤準(zhǔn)時(shí)出現(xiàn)在杭州長(zhǎng)明寺巷。

守?cái)側(cè)私蓄欀腋?，今年已?jīng)80歲高齡了。每年三伏天，顧老伯都會(huì)推著小車，從上午10點(diǎn)到下午4點(diǎn)在小區(qū)門口擺出涼茶攤，免費(fèi)給居民和行人提供降暑涼茶，直到白天的暑熱退去，他才推著小車離開(kāi)。

這個(gè)擺了41年的涼茶鋪，近日在中國(guó)美術(shù)學(xué)院“夢(mèng)想改造家”隊(duì)員的幫助下，以全新的面貌出現(xiàn)在小巷里。高顏值的茶鋪加上顧老伯的愛(ài)心，給今年夏天的杭城送來(lái)格外的清涼。

三代人堅(jiān)守一個(gè)涼茶鋪

涼茶鋪的故事，起源于顧忠根的外婆在下倉(cāng)橋開(kāi)的一家茶食糖果店。

每到三伏天，老太太會(huì)煮好茶水免費(fèi)提供給客人飲用。無(wú)論是熟悉的街坊還是陌生的游客，都會(huì)來(lái)討一杯茶喝，“更多的還是那些拉車運(yùn)貨的體力勞動(dòng)者。那時(shí)候買飲料貴，能喝上一口免費(fèi)的茶水，再舒服不過(guò)了。”

1976年，顧忠根一家搬到了清泰街518號(hào)，母親在家門口擺起了餛飩攤。當(dāng)時(shí)，顧忠根的父親在臨安做一名油漆工，閑時(shí)經(jīng)常幫村民干點(diǎn)活，為了表示感謝，大家會(huì)時(shí)不時(shí)地送他一些茶葉。母親就把那些茶葉拿來(lái)泡茶，免費(fèi)給過(guò)路的人喝。

15年前，顧忠根一家又搬到鍋?zhàn)优?0號(hào)樓，這一次的涼茶鋪傳承人變成了他自己。他把攤子擺在了小區(qū)門口，“這是一件好事……母親去世前還和我說(shuō)，這個(gè)攤要替她擺下去。”顧忠根說(shuō)。

顧忠根早上5點(diǎn)多就起床，利用峰谷電燒好開(kāi)水，灌滿10個(gè)暖水瓶?！懊繜粔?，都要等上三四分鐘，一大早要聽(tīng)開(kāi)水壺響上10次?！鳖欀腋f(shuō)。等水涼下來(lái)后，他再把茶葉、陳皮、青蒿、六月霜、白菊花、仁丹、十滴水等10種中草藥，按比例混合，做成一缸“老底子”的杭州涼茶。年紀(jì)漸長(zhǎng)，他的行動(dòng)越來(lái)越不方便，每當(dāng)有人勸他不要這么辛苦時(shí)，他總是笑瞇瞇地說(shuō)：“為人民服務(wù)?！?/p>

顧忠根的愛(ài)心涼茶鋪，這些年來(lái)一直是杭城一道亮麗的風(fēng)景線，被贊譽(yù)為“杭州最美涼茶鋪”，甚至有不少外地游客慕名前來(lái)體驗(yàn)。這道最美的風(fēng)景線，近日也吸引了一支美麗的隊(duì)伍。

中國(guó)美術(shù)學(xué)院有一個(gè)“夢(mèng)想改造家”小分隊(duì)，他們致力于用自己的雙手，讓藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)公益幫助在社會(huì)上生活困難的群體。在一次團(tuán)隊(duì)會(huì)議時(shí)，有隊(duì)員問(wèn)插畫師孫楠：“你是杭州人，有沒(méi)有什么可以改造的項(xiàng)目推薦？”孫楠就想起顧忠根的愛(ài)心涼茶鋪。

一番討論后，年輕人一拍即合，主動(dòng)提出要幫助顧大伯改造一下他的小小涼茶鋪，讓他能夠更方便更長(zhǎng)久地繼續(xù)自己的愛(ài)心事業(yè)。

美院學(xué)生愛(ài)心接力助改造

顧忠根原先的茶攤是一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)陋的不銹鋼雙層小推車，上面擺著一個(gè)大搪瓷茶缸。茶缸里面裝著的是顧忠根自己泡的茶，車上還堆著不少一次性紙杯。

為了更科學(xué)更人性化地設(shè)計(jì)涼茶鋪，“夢(mèng)想改造家”小分隊(duì)的同學(xué)們前期進(jìn)行了大量的走訪和調(diào)查。

“根據(jù)顧老伯的要求，我們給小推車加上了把手，還把原來(lái)車子的下半部分用PVC板圍成了一個(gè)收納的空間，用磁鐵把小黑板固定在上面，翻下來(lái)就可以當(dāng)作收納空間的門?！睂O楠說(shuō)。

為了解決原來(lái)小推車不方便挪動(dòng)的問(wèn)題，同學(xué)們把自行車把手安裝在了小推車上，這樣不僅活動(dòng)自如，而且還保留了撥一撥就響的小車鈴，輪子上也安裝了小小機(jī)關(guān)，輕輕扣下就能防止車輪滑動(dòng)，安全省心。

“因?yàn)槊看螣晁家匀涣罌?，我們換成兩只小的茶缸，可以讓水晾起來(lái)更快一些。另外顧大伯起先用的是搪瓷缸，還有飲茶人在上面寫著‘好人長(zhǎng)壽，后來(lái)因?yàn)榇┑?，就換成了鐵制的，這次我們還是把它換回搪瓷茶缸?！睂O楠說(shuō)。

茶缸是整個(gè)涼茶鋪的精髓，同學(xué)們?cè)诿阑麓筛椎倪^(guò)程中花了不少心思。“最美涼茶”四個(gè)字的底色經(jīng)過(guò)反復(fù)斟酌才決定，最后決定使用跟整體攤位色調(diào)一致的墨綠。而且光一個(gè)“茶”字，同學(xué)們就設(shè)計(jì)了好幾個(gè)極具藝術(shù)感的版本。

顧忠根的涼茶配方是從外婆那里傳下來(lái)的，用了40多年。因?yàn)榍鍩峤凳钣趾煤?，常常有路人?lái)詢問(wèn)配方。小分隊(duì)的同學(xué)了解到這個(gè)情況以后，直接將配方畫在了一塊小招牌上，招牌上每一棵植物都是同學(xué)們親手設(shè)計(jì)的。

同學(xué)們還在小推車的一角安上了自動(dòng)取杯裝置，讓行人們可以自助取水。

當(dāng)然，小分隊(duì)的改造不止于涼茶鋪本身。同學(xué)們?yōu)閿傊黝欀腋可泶蛟炝艘粭l袖口印有茶葉的T恤和米白色的大圍裙。在制作的時(shí)候，光是為了胸口上的幾個(gè)小字，同學(xué)們就廢掉了兩三條同款圍裙，最后提交給顧大伯的是反復(fù)試驗(yàn)后最滿意的一條。

對(duì)于前來(lái)幫忙的志愿者，同學(xué)們也貼心定制了一批好看又舒適的“制服”——胸前印著“最美涼茶攤”幾個(gè)大字。

這一場(chǎng)改造，前后花了兩周左右時(shí)間。在杭州的入伏之日，顧忠根就推著小推車全新出攤了。

“不僅僅為了人而設(shè)計(jì)，還要為了社會(huì)而設(shè)計(jì)，能夠把所學(xué)的東西運(yùn)用到服務(wù)社會(huì)上，這是導(dǎo)師希望我們做到，也是我們正在努力做到的。”小分隊(duì)隊(duì)員徐曦說(shuō)道。

據(jù)了解，這幾年，杭州上城區(qū)長(zhǎng)明寺巷社區(qū)的20多名志愿者也主動(dòng)來(lái)幫忙。“天氣熱，老人會(huì)漸漸吃不消，我們每天有兩個(gè)志愿者來(lái)涼茶攤幫忙，希望傳承這份愛(ài)心。”71歲的志愿者呂葉根說(shuō)。

一個(gè)傳承了三代的涼茶鋪，一位堅(jiān)守著的愛(ài)心傳承人，一群有設(shè)計(jì)夢(mèng)想的同學(xué)，一場(chǎng)愛(ài)心共通的援助，在這個(gè)夏天，為杭城送來(lái)了一抹清涼。

Family Continues Free Tea Drink Service

By Zhu Zhiyuan

When the hottest days of the summer began on July 17 this year according to the lunar calendar， the 80-year-old Gu Zhonggen pushed his tea cart to the gate of the residential community where he lives and began the familys free tea service for passersby.

The hottest days of the summer is a Chinese tradition closely associated with the lunar calendar. The hottest days are usually divided in three sections. When the first day starts is clearly indicated in the lunar calendar. It moves around in early and middle July. In 2017， the hottest summer days started on July 12. This year， it was July 17. The duration also varies. Usually the period lasts 40 days： 10 in the first phase， 20 in the second， and 10 again in the last. One needs to check the lunar calendar for sure. Just like other important traditional days such as 24 solar terms and festivals on the lunar calendar， the beginning and the ending of the hottest days are also mentioned in Chinas modern-day weather forecast. People have traditional ways to cope with the summer heat. Special food and herbal beverage as well as TCM therapies for chronic winter medical conditions are all part of the ways Chinese people cope with the hottest summer days. In the hottest summer days， Gu runs his service from 10 in the morning until 4 in the afternoon， hottest hours of a day.

The free offer of herbal tea to passersby in the street has been a tradition maintained by Gus family for three generations. His maternal grandmother ran a candy and tea shop in a downtown lane. When the hottest days of the summer began， she offered free herbal tea to passersby. Neighbors as well as visitors often came to have a free drink. But the grandma had a target group of clients： passing laborers pulling cargo carts through the city. Back then， Hangzhou had few wide streets. Bridges， lanes， narrow streets were the essential components of the cityscape and cargo carts were a key part of the citys logistic system that distributed the goods to retailers in tiny shops.

In 1976， the family moved to a house in Qingtai Street. Gus mom started a small snack food business in front of her house. Back then， Gus father was a house decorator who followed work in Linan， a rural county back then， now a district of the city. When he wasnt busy with work， he helped neighbors do some chores and received tealeaves from them. The father brought the tea home. In the hottest days of the summer， Gus mother prepared herbal tea and provided the drink free to passersby. Fifteen years ago， the family moved again to an apartment building. Gu carries on the family free tea service at the front gate of the residential community. “My mom asked me to keep doing it before she passed away，” said the 80-year-old.

If the free tea service at the house of Qingtai Street 518 is a point of the familys generosity in the hottest summer days， we need to go back more than 40 years old to see the family tradition. And if we trace further back to the years when Gus maternal grandmother operated her summer tea service at the candy shop， the generosity is time-honored much longer.

The familys recipe of the herbal tea has ten ingredients. In the hottest summer days， Gu begins to boil water in an electric kettle at 5 in the morning when electricity is much cheaper. He fills ten thermos bottles.

Local media has long since covered the Gu familys free tea service in the hottest summer days. Gu is a hero， in many peoples eye. Some people go out of their ways to visit the tea stall to meet the hero and enjoy a free drink. Volunteers have assisted Gu as the man is growing old. In 2018， a group of designer volunteers in Hangzhou who call themselves dream reformers helped redesign and rebuilt the cart Gu uses for the service.

In the past the wheeled cart was a simple stainless steel structure. A big enameled water pail for the herbal tea sat on the platform. And disposable paper cups were also heaped on the top platform for visitors. To make the cart easy to maneuver， the team installed a handlebar and a bell on the cart. Now the cart uses a simple break system so that the cart can stay motionless and secure in one place. The enameled pail is replaced with two smaller containers： easy to let the boiled water cool off and easy to stash the containers away into the space under the top inside the cart. The recipe is now copied onto a small bulletin board so that those who want it can see it and copy it themselves. Gu now wears a new apron especially designed by the team for the tea service. The team also made special uniforms for volunteers who help out at the tea stall. It took the team two weeks to do research and design and make.

In recent years， volunteers from the community have helped Gu out with the free tea service. Two volunteers per day help at the stall. “The hottest days are challenging to the old man whose health is declining. We volunteers come here to help and hope to carry on Gu familys generosity，” said the 71-year-old Lyu Yegen.

With the free herbal tea of the Gu family and a great variety of similar generosities from the general public， the city is really cool in the summer.