初秋時(shí),劉芳菲飛到摩洛哥采風(fēng),在這沙漠與海洋并存的神秘國(guó)度開(kāi)啟了一段探索之旅。沉迷于當(dāng)?shù)厝宋暮退囆g(shù)的同時(shí),“美食”也給她的旅行增添了別樣的色彩。在本期的“餐飲”欄目,我們邀請(qǐng)劉芳菲作為特約撰稿人,講述她在卡薩布蘭卡四季酒店和Bleu餐廳的不期而遇。
In the early autumn, Liu Fangfei flew to Morocco to embark on a journey of exploration in this mysterious country where the desert and the oceans meet. While immersed in the local culture and art, \"Cuisine\" also added a different kind of color to her trip. In this issue of \"Dining\", we invited Liu Fangfei as our contributor to share with us her chance encounter at the Four Seasons Hotel Casablanca in Bleu restaurant.
若不是酒店熱情邀請(qǐng),我們肯定會(huì)和這番美味擦肩
If not for a warm invitation from the hotel, we will certainly pass this gourmet by...
以經(jīng)驗(yàn)之談,每去一個(gè)新地方旅行,我一般不會(huì)選擇在入住的酒店用餐。我更希望自己在當(dāng)?shù)氐拿朗巢蛷d用餐,更多地接觸當(dāng)?shù)厝撕彤?dāng)?shù)匚幕N視?huì)詢問(wèn)當(dāng)?shù)乩削鸦虿殚喡眯惺謨?cè),找既有本地特色又好吃的館子來(lái)試。此次摩洛哥之行,我和旅伴們同樣做了功課,而以往旅行的探吃經(jīng)驗(yàn),這一次似乎并沒(méi)有發(fā)揮作用。
查閱了一些餐廳信息并參考了酒店前臺(tái)的建議后,我們?cè)嚵藥准耶?dāng)?shù)乜诒诲e(cuò)的餐廳,其中包括一家被公認(rèn)為本地前兩位的法餐廳,結(jié)果卻都差強(qiáng)人意。連番幾次下來(lái),一直沒(méi)有遇到期待中的美味,眼看就要離開(kāi)卡薩布蘭卡奔赴下一個(gè)旅程,心中未免有些遺憾。
對(duì)摩洛哥美食的探索本打算就此放棄,卻意外受到《酒店精品》雜志和卡薩布蘭卡四季酒店的邀請(qǐng),款待我們?cè)诰频晡鞑蛷dBleu用餐。沒(méi)想到,本是一次不抱希望的應(yīng)邀晚餐,卻成為這次旅行讓我念念不忘的美好回憶。
From experience, when traveling to a new place, I generally do not choose to dine at the hotel where I live. I usually prefer to dine in the local gourmet restaurants for more exposure to locals and local cultures. I will ask the local foodies or check the travel guidebook to find good local restaurants. This trip to Morocco, me and my friends did the same homework, but our past travel experience does not seem to work this time.
After reviewing some of the restaurant information and referring to the hotel's front desk advice, we tried several local restaurants of reputation, including one that was recognized as the top two local French restaurants, however, all with unsatisfactory results. The experience repeated several times, we still have not found our ideal taste. Soon we are leaving Casablanca for the next journey, we felt somewhat at loss.
As we were giving up discovering Moroccan delicacies, an unexpected invitation came from Hotel Elite and Four Seasons Hotel Casablanca to entertain us at Bleu, the hotel restaurant. Originally an unexpected invitation has turned out to be our unforgettable memories.
北京話“靠譜”用在Bleu餐廳再合適不過(guò)
Beijing dialect 'Kao-Pu(Trustworthy)' is most appropriately used for Bleu restaurant...
一進(jìn)Bleu餐廳,首先映入眼簾的是簡(jiǎn)潔明亮的開(kāi)放式廚房。我們?nèi)胱臅r(shí)間對(duì)當(dāng)?shù)厝藖?lái)說(shuō)較早,餐廳客人不多,主廚正在料理臺(tái)后有條不紊地為我們備餐。和著輕柔的音樂(lè),透過(guò)大片落地窗欣賞日落時(shí)分的海景,還沒(méi)上菜,已經(jīng)嘗到了Bleu餐廳一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)“藍(lán)”的味道。
等候不多時(shí),前菜上桌。蟹肉卷一入口便著實(shí)讓我驚艷,用北京話說(shuō),那就是“靠譜”。只第一口,主廚的功力便可見(jiàn)一斑。連續(xù)幾日失敗的嘗試后,一盤(pán)小小的前菜,讓我們開(kāi)始對(duì)這次計(jì)劃外的晚餐有了期待。
果然,接下來(lái)的出品讓人驚喜連連。主菜烤法國(guó)藍(lán)龍蝦風(fēng)味十足,火烤的焦香與羅勒黃油和諧地融入龍蝦肉,將卡薩布蘭卡的海邊異域風(fēng)情完美呈現(xiàn)在盤(pán)中。另一道讓我欲罷不能的菜,則是像極了天津包子的布拉塔芝士搭配香煎黃鰭金槍魚(yú)與芝麻菜沙拉。切開(kāi)“包子”送入口中,軟糯濃郁,這道菜把奶酪的鮮香放大到了極致。
味蕾終于得到滿足,從前菜到主菜再到最后的甜品,幾乎每道菜都合心合意。晚餐期間,Bleu餐廳行政主廚 Guillaume Blanchard親自過(guò)來(lái)與我們交流。Guillaume出生于法國(guó)皮卡第地區(qū)的小鎮(zhèn),師從廚界大師阿蘭·杜卡斯,不久前剛在Bleu上任,年紀(jì)輕輕已經(jīng)掌握高超的廚藝技巧,并有著獨(dú)特的烹飪理念和飽滿的熱情。他主張將本地食材發(fā)揮至最大化,讓食客能在Bleu品嘗到卡薩布蘭卡獨(dú)有的風(fēng)味。我們的晚餐主題為“海和海岸線”,就是這一創(chuàng)作理念的體現(xiàn)。
不知不覺(jué)兩個(gè)半小時(shí)過(guò)去,向遠(yuǎn)處望去,一輪明月下波濤拍岸。此情此景,讓我想起10年前在馬爾代夫度假的時(shí)光。彼時(shí),也是在四季酒店,也是這樣的愉快和愜意。
美食,不僅美好在舌尖味蕾,它也會(huì)美在人的心里,成為記憶中的檔案。在異國(guó)、在他鄉(xiāng),被人隨時(shí)回味。
Once inside the Bleu restaurant, the first and foremost impression is the bright, open kitchen. We came at the earlier time than the locals, so there were not many guests, and the chef was preparing for our table. Gentle music playing together with the sunset sea view through the large windows, we have already tasted a little \"blue\" flavor of Bleu restaurant before being served.
Soon the appetizer was served on the table. The taste of crab roll really surprised me, in Beijing saying, it would be \"Kao-pu.\" The first bite showed the true skills of the chef. After a few days of unsuccessful attempts, a small plate of appetizer fired our passion for this unplanned dinner.
Indeed, the following dishes surprised us again and again. Main course Grilled French blue lobster was most flavorful, with roasted fragrance and basil butter blended harmoniously into the lobster meat, showing a perfect seaside view of Casablanca. Another dish that I can not have enough of was Burrata cheese with fried yellowfin tuna and arugula salad, reminding me of the Tianjin Buns. Once cut open and delivered, the cheese \"buns\" melted in the mouth with its soft and rich glutinous flavor, this dish certainly magnified the cheese's fragrance to the maximum.
Our taste buds were finally satisfied, from the appetizers, the main courses to the final dessert, we loved them all. During dinner, Guillaume Blanchard, Executive Chef of Bleu, came personally to greet us. Born in the small town of Picardie, France and studied under the master of the kitchen, Alain Ducasse, Guillaume recently took up his position at Bleu. He has mastered superb culinary skills and unique cooking concepts with full enthusiasm. He advocates maximizing local ingredients so that diners can taste Casablanca's unique flavor at Bleu. The theme of our dinner, \"Sea and Shoreline,\" is an expression of this creative concept.
Soon, two and a half hours went past, I looked into the distance, the scene of the moonlighted waves reminded me of my Maldives holiday 10 years ago. That time, I also stayed in the Four Seasons Hotel, with the same pleasant and cozy atmosphere.
The sweet beauty of the food will not only stay on the taste buds, but also in the heart, turning it all into a treasured memory. Wherever you travel, the aftertaste will stay with you for dear reminisce.