陳曉玲, 聶存云, 李納納
(1. 湖南工程學(xué)院 紡織服裝學(xué)院, 湖南 湘潭 411104; 2. 湖南工程學(xué)院 理學(xué)院, 湖南 湘潭 411104)
女上裝合體性與舒適性的綜合評價
陳曉玲1, 聶存云2, 李納納1
(1. 湖南工程學(xué)院 紡織服裝學(xué)院, 湖南 湘潭 411104; 2. 湖南工程學(xué)院 理學(xué)院, 湖南 湘潭 411104)
為達(dá)到女上裝的款式實現(xiàn)與工藝效果,運用層次分析法對樣衣的靜態(tài)合體性與動態(tài)舒適性進(jìn)行綜合評價。其中,在評價樣衣靜態(tài)合體性時,選擇款式風(fēng)格和前胸、體側(cè)、后背3個部位合體性作為4個評價指標(biāo),利用層次分析法得到的指標(biāo)權(quán)重和專家評價結(jié)果計算得到靜態(tài)合體性評價分值;在評價動態(tài)舒適性時,選擇著裝者在常見的11種動作下的舒適度作為評價指標(biāo),利用各指標(biāo)的權(quán)重和三角模糊數(shù)評分矩陣得到動態(tài)舒適性評價分值;最后運用加權(quán)平均計算得到最終樣衣評價綜合值,選出最佳效果樣衣;據(jù)此有效評價樣衣試驗效果,確定最佳放松量和工藝設(shè)計方案。
女上裝; 合體性; 舒適性; 層次分析法
樣衣試驗是實現(xiàn)女上裝款式與結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計的重要途經(jīng)之一。樣衣的靜態(tài)合體性與動態(tài)舒適性評價是樣衣試驗中的一個必要環(huán)節(jié),評價結(jié)果的合理性與真實性直接關(guān)系到女上裝的款式實現(xiàn)與否以及工藝效果,因此,采用合適的評價方法得到合理有效的評價結(jié)果顯得尤為重要。
樣衣制作試驗中,對樣衣著裝效果合理評價直接關(guān)系到試驗結(jié)果的可信度,學(xué)者們從評價方法、評價數(shù)據(jù)的處理、評價結(jié)果合理性等方面做了研究,主要有:對著裝后的人體進(jìn)行三維掃描測量得到評價數(shù)據(jù)[1-2],采用模糊數(shù)學(xué)方法對衣身、衣袖的合體配伍性建立其隸屬函數(shù)并作直線擬合,得到其合體性評價結(jié)果[3-4];采用統(tǒng)計方法獲得女上裝的合體性評價結(jié)果[5];將服裝與人體的波形空間作為舒適性評價的關(guān)鍵因素;利用小波變換對上裝的合體性評價進(jìn)行研究[6-8];采用應(yīng)用數(shù)學(xué)的方法進(jìn)行定量分析[9-11],主要有主成分分析法、聚類分析法、灰色關(guān)聯(lián)分析[10]、多層次分析法、回歸分析法和元評估法[11]等。上述方法中,文獻(xiàn)[11]運用元評估方法對樣衣靜態(tài)合體性評價時,考慮女上裝樣衣的4個靜態(tài)評價要素: 款式整體風(fēng)格、前胸部位、體側(cè)部位、后背部位,采用層次分析法,計算其權(quán)重,保證了樣衣制作試驗的順利完成與后續(xù)評價工作,但其不足之處是忽略了樣衣的靜態(tài)合體性與動態(tài)舒適性的共同效果,靜態(tài)合體性與動態(tài)舒適性是相互制約的因素,而服裝設(shè)計追求的是二者的綜合效果。
在研究女上裝靜態(tài)合體性和動態(tài)舒適性時,按照不同放松量制作了若干件樣衣,選取款式整體風(fēng)格、前胸部位、體側(cè)部位、后背部位的合體性作為靜態(tài)合體性評價指標(biāo),利用層次分析法與專家評價,得到樣衣靜態(tài)合體性評價分值;在研究上裝動態(tài)舒適性時,將日常生活、工作中常見的11種動作狀態(tài)[12](擴胸、雙手抱胸、雙手抱頭、上體最前屈、最大深吸氣、雙上肢前側(cè)舉45°、雙上肢前側(cè)舉90°、雙上肢正舉180°、雙上肢外側(cè)舉45°、兩上肢外側(cè)舉90°和叉腰)下著裝者的舒適性作為評價指標(biāo),采用三角模糊數(shù)方法得到動態(tài)舒適性評價分值;最后加權(quán)平均計算動態(tài)舒適性評價分值、靜態(tài)合體性評價分值,得到樣衣最終評價分值,據(jù)此選出既滿足靜態(tài)合體性又滿足動態(tài)舒適性要求的樣衣(以下簡稱為最佳樣衣),從而確定最佳的設(shè)計參數(shù)。
綜合評價時,將女上裝樣衣的靜、動態(tài)綜合評價為目標(biāo)層;靜態(tài)合體性和動態(tài)舒適性作為準(zhǔn)則層:靜態(tài)合體性評價選擇款式整體風(fēng)格、前胸部位、體側(cè)部位、后背部位的合體性,動態(tài)舒適性評價選擇常見11種動作下的舒適性;樣衣為方案層;階梯層次結(jié)構(gòu)模型如圖1所示。
圖1 女上裝樣衣靜態(tài)、動態(tài)綜合評價層次結(jié)構(gòu)模型圖Fig.1 Hierarchy structure for static and dynamic assessments of garments
樣衣、專家、靜態(tài)評價指標(biāo)、動態(tài)評價指標(biāo)和著裝評價者對應(yīng)的5個集合依次設(shè)為
式中,m、k、N、M、K分別表示構(gòu)成樣衣集合的樣衣件數(shù)、專家集合的專家個數(shù)、靜態(tài)評價指標(biāo)集合的指標(biāo)個數(shù)、動態(tài)評價指標(biāo)集合的指標(biāo)個數(shù)和著裝評價者集合的評價者個數(shù)。
2.1 評價目標(biāo)的確定
評價目標(biāo)是從女上裝試驗中的一批樣衣中選出最佳樣衣,從而確定最佳款式與工藝設(shè)計。
2.2 準(zhǔn)則層權(quán)重的確定
準(zhǔn)則層的權(quán)重即考慮靜態(tài)合體性和動態(tài)舒適性各自所占的比重,根據(jù)專家組意見,可考慮權(quán)重w=(w1,w2),如取為(0.4, 0.6)。
2.3 靜態(tài)合體性評價分值的計算
靜態(tài)合體性評價分值的計算[12]按以下3步進(jìn)行。
第1步: 確定判斷矩陣。專家組按照評價指標(biāo)的重要性給出各指標(biāo)兩兩之間的相對重要性的比值,可構(gòu)造n階判斷矩陣B,其中重要性評價等級按10分制賦值(見表1)。
表1 樣衣評價指標(biāo)重要性不同等級賦值Tab.1 Values of different grade for assessment indices of garments
第2步:求解矩陣B的最大特征值和相應(yīng)特征向量,并對特征向量標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化。對各指標(biāo)進(jìn)行層次單排序,計算其所占權(quán)重。為保證權(quán)重的非負(fù)性,選矩陣B的最大特征值對應(yīng)的特征向量,其分量為樣衣各靜態(tài)合體性評價指標(biāo)的權(quán)重。
第3步:根據(jù)專家評價分值和第2步中的權(quán)重計算出樣衣靜態(tài)合體性評價分值。
2.4 動態(tài)舒適性評價分值的計算
計算動態(tài)舒適性評價分值[13-14]則按如下步驟。
第1步: 確定綜合三角模糊互補判斷矩陣。由專家根據(jù)評價目標(biāo)和評價指標(biāo)的相關(guān)資料建立評價指標(biāo)間相對重要性的三角模糊數(shù)互補判斷矩陣,采用專家權(quán)威性設(shè)定的權(quán)重對其集結(jié),得到評價指標(biāo)的綜合三角模糊互補判斷矩陣
其中:
(1)
第2步:確定綜合三角模糊數(shù)評分矩陣。由多位評價主體據(jù)評價指標(biāo)和語言變量(評價語)對應(yīng)的三角模糊數(shù)(見表2),建立被評價對象的三角模糊數(shù)評分矩陣(見表3),再根據(jù)評價主體權(quán)威性設(shè)定的權(quán)重集結(jié),得到綜合三角模糊數(shù)評分矩陣
(2)
表2 語言變量和對應(yīng)的三角模糊數(shù)表示 Tab.2 Language variable and triangular fuzzy numbers
表3 綜合三角模糊數(shù)評分矩陣Tab.3 Composite triangular fuzzy assessment matrix
第3步:計算綜合三角模糊數(shù)權(quán)重向量
(3)
第4步:計算三角模糊數(shù)總評分。
其中:
第5步: 利用隸屬函數(shù)計算三角模糊數(shù)的期望值, 計算各樣衣的動態(tài)舒適度評價分值
2.5 最佳效果樣衣的確定
對每件樣衣,利用靜態(tài)合體性評價分值、動態(tài)舒適性評價分值、權(quán)重值計算該樣衣的綜合評價分值,據(jù)此比較大小,確定最佳樣衣:既滿足靜態(tài)合體性,又滿足動態(tài)舒適性要求最好的樣衣。
表4 靜態(tài)著裝效果專家評價評分情況Tab.4 Remarks for static fitness assessment
在研究機織面料彈性對女上裝合體性與舒適性影響時,選取中高彈面料(面料在一定負(fù)荷時伸長率和伸長彈性的回復(fù)率[15]分別為135%和98.5%),胸圍放松量分別為2、4、6、8、10 cm,制作樣衣,5件樣衣編號為D2i,i=1,2,3,4,5對應(yīng)于樣衣集合E=E1,E2,…,E5,這里僅給出第4件樣衣的部分效果圖(見圖2、3)。
圖2 樣衣E4不同角度的靜態(tài)著裝效果Fig.2 Static fitness of E4 from different directions.(a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back
圖3 樣衣E4 2種動作后的動態(tài)著裝效果Fig.3 Dynamic effect of E4 with two movements.(a) After chest expansion; (b) After akimbo
按照給出的靜態(tài)、動態(tài)評價指標(biāo)對上述樣衣進(jìn)行評價,其中靜態(tài)評價指標(biāo)C1中的C11、C12、C13和C14分別表示款式整體風(fēng)格、前胸部位、體側(cè)部位、后背部位的合體性,動態(tài)評價指標(biāo)C2的C2i(i=1,2,…,11)依次表示11個常見動作下著裝評價者的舒適性;專家組和評價主體分別記為P={P1,P2,…,P5}和Q={Q1,Q2,…,Q5}。
首先,計算靜態(tài)合體性評價分值,采用元評估保證主觀評價的信度與效度[11],請5位專家對其4個靜態(tài)評價指標(biāo)的重要性進(jìn)行評價,統(tǒng)計評價結(jié)果,可得比較判斷矩陣
經(jīng)計算可得λmax=4.000 25,其對應(yīng)的特征向量(即評價指標(biāo)的權(quán)數(shù))ω1=(0.302 8,0.271 0,0.176 2,0.250 0),并計算CI=0.000 083,RI=0.9,CR=CI/R1<0.1,從而驗證了該權(quán)數(shù)的有效性。
專家組對5件樣衣靜態(tài)合體性評分的結(jié)果見表4。表中第1列P1,P2,…,P5表示5位專家,第1行E1,E2,…,E5表示5件樣衣,而C11,C12,C13,C14表示靜態(tài)評價的4個指標(biāo),評價結(jié)果的一致性利用肯德爾和諧系數(shù)[11]進(jìn)行驗證,利用權(quán)重計算靜態(tài)合體性評價分值,結(jié)果如表5所示。
這樣就完成了對5件樣衣的靜態(tài)合體性評價,并得到了其靜態(tài)合體性評價分值。接下來進(jìn)行動態(tài)舒適性評價。首先,5位專家根據(jù)表6對日常生活、工作中常見11個指標(biāo)的重要程度進(jìn)行評價,表6中0.1~0.9標(biāo)度對應(yīng)樣衣評價指標(biāo)的模糊等級
表5 5件樣衣平均分值和靜態(tài)評價分值Tab.5 Average marks for static fitness assessments
表6 0.1~0.9 標(biāo)度的含義Tab.6 Meanings for the grade from 0.1 to 0.9
指標(biāo)C21C22C23C24C25C26C21(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.8,0.9,1.0)(0.6,0.7,0.8)C22(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C23(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C24(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)C25(0.1,0.1,0.2)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C26(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.6,0.6)(0.5,0.5,0.5)C27(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C28(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.6,0.7,0.8)C29(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C210(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C211(0.1,0.1,0.2)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)指標(biāo)C27C28C29C210C211C21(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.8,0.9,1.0)C22(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C23(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C24(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C25(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C26(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)C27(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C28(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)C29(0.6,0.5,0.8)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C210(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)C211(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5,0.5,0.5)
表8 樣衣動態(tài)著裝舒適性評分細(xì)則Tab.8 Criterion for dynamic assessment
評分語言完成動作對應(yīng)滿足的人們活動 極差不能深吸氣 差深吸氣基本生理需求自由呼吸 一般上肢45°前舉、上肢45°側(cè)舉、上肢90°側(cè)舉、叉腰日常生活、辦公室辦公 好抱頭、抱胸、上肢180°前舉小幅度體育運動 極好擴胸、上肢90°前舉、上體最大前屈體操
最后,利用表5中的靜態(tài)評價分值、動態(tài)評價期望值與權(quán)重值(w1,w2)=(0.4, 0.6),可得5件樣衣靜態(tài)合體性與動態(tài)舒適性綜合評價分值,依次為5.63、5.98、6.39、7.49、6.84。由該分值可知:從靜態(tài)合體性和動態(tài)舒適性綜合效果考慮,5件樣衣由好到差依次為E4、E5、E3、E2和E1,由此評出最佳樣衣為樣衣E4,因此,在該小組的樣衣試驗中,樣衣E4對應(yīng)的放松量設(shè)計有最好的綜合效果,既滿足靜態(tài)合體性,也滿足很好的動態(tài)舒適性要求。該結(jié)果與運用元評估評價結(jié)果一致[12],驗證了女上裝樣衣靜態(tài)、動態(tài)綜合評價方法的正確性與有效性。
樣衣C21C22C23C24C25C26E1(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.3,0.3,0.3)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5,0.5,0.5)E2(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5.0.6,0.7)E3(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.5,0.6,0.7)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.5,0.6,0.7)(0.6,0.7,0.8)E4(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.5,0.6,0.7)(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.7,0.8,0.9)(0.7,0.8,0.9)E5(0.8,0.9,1.0)(0.8,0.9,1.0)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.5,0.6,0.7)(0.8,0.9,1.0)(0.8,0.9,1.0)樣衣C27C28C29C210C211E1(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.2,0.3,0.4)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.3,0.3,0.3)(0.4,0.5,0.6)E2(0.5,0.5,0.5)(0.2,0.4,0.6)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)E3(0.5,0.6,0.7)(0.3,0.4,0.5)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.3,0.5,0.7)(0.5,0.6,0.7)E4(0.7,0.8,0.9)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.4,0.5,0.6)(0.7,0.8,0.9)E5(0.8,0.8,0.8)(0.5,0.7,0.9)(0.7,0.8,0.9)(0.6,0.7,0.8)(0.8,0.9,1.0)
本文綜合考慮了服裝靜態(tài)合體性和動態(tài)舒適性,采用層次分析法對女上裝樣衣進(jìn)行評價。根據(jù)靜態(tài)評價常用的款式整體風(fēng)格、前胸部位、體側(cè)部位、后背部位4個指標(biāo),利用判定矩陣計算其權(quán)重,結(jié)合專家評價分值得到靜態(tài)合體性分值;將日常生活、工作中常見的11種動作(擴胸、雙手抱胸、雙手抱頭、上體最前屈、最大深吸氣、雙上肢前側(cè)舉45°、雙上肢前側(cè)舉90°、雙上肢正舉180°、雙上肢外側(cè)舉45°、兩上肢外側(cè)舉90°和叉腰)時著裝者的舒適度作為評價指標(biāo),計算其權(quán)重,利用樣衣著裝者舒適度評價結(jié)果,采用三角模糊數(shù)得到動態(tài)舒適性分值;最后運用加權(quán)平均計算得到每件樣衣的最終評價得分,比較最終得分大小,選出最佳效果樣衣,從而確定最佳設(shè)計方法。本文研究結(jié)果為樣衣試驗的評價提供了一種有效的方法。
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Comprehensive assessment methods for women′s garment fitness and comfort
CHEN Xiaoling1, NIE Cunyun2, LI Nana1
(1.DepartmentofTextileandFashion,HunanInstituteofEngineering,Xiangtan,Hunan411104,China; 2.DepartmentofMathematicsandPhysics,HunanInstituteofEngineering,Xiangtan,Hunan411104,China)
To obtain the proper assessment results for several garments during the experiments, the analytic hierarchy process is synthetically considered to evaluate static fitness and dynamic comfort. Four assessment indices including design style, fitness of front breast and the sides of body and back are selected. The assessment values for the static fitness are obtained by the weights of indices and the remarks from assessment experts. For dynamic comfort, the comfort from the try-on persons about eleven movements are selected in daily life as the indices, and triangular fuzzy numbers are utilized. The evaluation value can also be obtained. The best garment is able to be determined by final assessment values for static fitness and dynamic comfort. The above results provide a practical method for garment′s assessment.
women′s top garment; fitness; comfort; analytic hierarchy process method
10.13475/j.fzxb.20150305807
2015-03-30
2016-01-06
湖南省教育廳優(yōu)秀青年項目(14B044); 湖南省教改項目(湘教通[2013]223號,364)
陳曉玲(1975—),女,副教授,碩士。研究方向為服裝結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計與舒適功能性。E-mail:1092407980@qq.com。
TS 941.1
A