By Li Gang

Dining at the Heart Of Chinese Culture

By Li Gang

About the author: Li Gang is a professor at the Beijing University of Posts and Telecommunications.

Ancient Chinese sages said, “Food is what matters most to people.” Eating is the first necessity for human survival. It is also a lifestyle. In addition to allaying one’s hunger, it includes the following: with whom to eat, where and what to eat, why and how to eat. Eating has long been a cultural force in China.

Many Chinese social concepts are associated with eating. For example, a stranger is called sheng (uncooked) ren (person), and an acquaintance shu (cooked) ren (person). Besides these, a number of other matters in everyday life seem to be associated with eating: being highly appraised and valued is called chi (eating) xiang (deliciously); getting along well with others is chi (eating) de kai (widely); being jealous is chi (eating) cu (vinegar); being beautiful is xiu se ke can (beauty can serve as a meal); coveting something is chui xian san chi (to have one’s saliva drip down three feet).

In Chinese history, legendary stories, such as hong men yan (a dinner party at Hongmen) and bei jiu shi bing quan (a cup of wine relieves military power), have all regarded dinner tables as the best occasion to resolve major political, military and diplomatic issues. Zhe chong (chariot) zun zu (vessels for wine and meat) depict an ideal state of defeating opponents at a dinner party without using armed force. “Eating” has been used thoroughly in Chinese social lives throughout history. Chinese place the dinner table at the central point of social contact, making it the epitome of complicated social phenomena.

Today, table culture in China not only allows exchange of feelings but also functions in social communication. Chinese writer Qian Zhongshu wrote, “Eating performs many social functions, such as establishing a close relationship or settling a business contract. Though being complicated in various types in society, eating has a simple nature. Going to dine at somebody else’s dinner party is to give face. The nuance of social contact lies in examples such as these.”

Renowned publisher Shen Changwen told of his experience with writers.

“I favor eating. To deal with educated people, or get on well with thinkers, dining with them may be my only contact, so where to eat, and most importantly, what he likes to eat, is most important. Eating facilitates topics, and we have things about which to talk,” Shen said.

Studying table culture can serve as a window to observe Chinese civilization and its evolution over thousands of years. Five thousand years of history, culture and customs are manifested in eating. The excellence of dinner parties does not lie in just “eating” but in parties, through which diners may reach their goals.

A Chinese-style dinner party has functions of social contact, sending a message of becoming close friends and identifying all diners as part of the same group. To talk about business at a dinner table is casual and straightforward for Chinese people. Even if they fail to settle business, the diners can still eat and drink without hurting each other.

In terms of a dinner party, Chinese pay great attention to detail.

First, when arranging a dinner table, Chinese people love round tables of more than 10 guests, rather than small square tables. Many diners and a merry atmosphere give a greater sense of togetherness. Second, on the issue of taking seats, respectful and humble seat places are clearly defined at a Chinese table, with the former usually inside and the latter outside by the door. Third, in terms of ordering food in a Western-style restaurant, each diner is given a menu to choose what he likes. In traditional Chinese restaurants, one or two menus are generally provided for a table. Diners choose food together, so they try to select food everybody likes, without catering to individual personal preferences. Fourth, regarding the eating style, each diner at a Western restaurant eats food from his own plate, simplifying the situation. At a Chinese dinner party, there are plenty of factors, including the order of putting down chopsticks or persuading people to drink more or eat more. Finally, with respect to paying the bill, there are also many things to learn. Before coming to dinner, the Chinese diners already know much about who should pay or who will treat them. they rarely go Dutch. Because Chinese dinners are mostly for social contact, the key is not what to eat, but who should pay the bill, with whom to dine, and why to dine. When all of the above are known, the decision regarding who takes the bill is naturally solved.

Chinese dinner parties can also promote interpersonal relationships. A simple dinner party may serve as a communication channel among relatives and friends, or an arena for negotiation between business partners. Eating and drinking promotes friendship, and resolves difficulties and conflicts. Cultural dining is also a uniquely Chinese way to deal with pressing matters.