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        高效液相色譜法同時測定化妝品中的11種紫外吸收劑

        2014-12-18 21:20:51黃雄風等
        分析化學 2014年12期
        關(guān)鍵詞:四氫呋喃吸收劑甲氧基

        黃雄風等

        摘 要 建立了高效液相色譜法準確、快速、靈敏測定化妝品中11種紫外吸收劑的方法。采用C18色譜柱,以乙腈和0.1%甲酸作為流動相, 311 nm作為檢測波長,在11.5 min內(nèi)完成11種紫外吸收劑的基線分離。在優(yōu)化的實驗條件下,目標化合物的保留時間和峰面積的相對標準偏差分別小于0.05%和1.20%;另外,所有目標化合物的檢出限均低于2.24 mg/L, 并在5~500 mg/L 內(nèi)均具有良好的線性關(guān)系

        1 引 言

        太陽光中紫外線可分為紫外線A (400~320 nm)和紫外線B (320~290 nm),以及紫外線C (280 nm以下)。通常,295 nm以下的光線不能到達地表,所以到達人體皮膚的是前兩個波段的紫外線[ 1,2]。紫外線會導致皮膚曬黑、曬傷,甚至會誘發(fā)皮膚癌。因此,生產(chǎn)廠商會添加一定量紫外吸收劑于具有防曬功能的防曬霜、隔離霜等化妝品中。但是過量的紫外吸收劑影響人體健康。2007版《化妝品衛(wèi)生規(guī)范》行業(yè)標準對防曬化妝品中的紫外吸收劑進行了限制[ 3];世界主要化妝品生產(chǎn)和消費國都對化妝品中的紫外吸收劑的種類和使用量進行了規(guī)定[ 3,4]。不同國家對化妝品中紫外吸收劑的限用量差別較大,比如甲氧基肉桂酸異戊酯已經(jīng)得到歐盟批準使用,但日本禁止將甲氧基肉桂酸異戊酯與一些特定成分一起使用[ 5]。

        測定化妝品中紫外吸收劑的方法主要有薄層色譜法[ 5]、氣相質(zhì)譜法[ 6]和高效液相色譜法[ 7~13]和電化學法[ 14]。其中,高效液相色譜法是檢測化妝品中紫外吸收劑中使用最為廣泛的方法。在2002版《進口化妝品中紫外吸收劑的測定 液相色譜法》這一行業(yè)標準中,對對氨基苯甲酸等8種紫外吸收劑測定,該標準采用甲醇、四氫呋喃和水的混合溶液作為流動相,而四氫呋喃除了具有較大的毒性外,還容易引起色譜系統(tǒng)不穩(wěn)定,峰拖尾和鬼峰產(chǎn)生等問題[ 11]。并且2002版行業(yè)標準并未對樣品進行測定,雖然有一些文章已報道實際樣品的測定,但測定的紫外吸收劑種類較少,導致市場上化妝品中紫外吸收劑的添加量仍存在較大不確定性[ 7~10]。

        因此, 建立一種簡便、能準確測定化妝品中紫外吸收劑的方法,并將其應(yīng)用于市場上化妝品中紫外吸收劑的測定是十分必要的。本研究擬采用常用的高效液相色譜法,在不使用四氫呋喃的條件下,對化妝品中的2羥基4甲氧基二苯甲酮5磺酸、對氨基苯甲酸、2,2,4,4四羥基二苯甲酮、3,3,5三甲基環(huán)已烷水楊酸酯等11種紫外吸收劑進行同時測定。

        4 結(jié) 論

        本方法采用簡單流動相,在11.5 min 內(nèi)即可完成化妝品中11種紫外吸收劑的基線分離和準確測定。該方法具有快速、準確、可靠的特點,適用于隔離霜和防曬霜等化妝品中多種紫外吸收劑的測定,為規(guī)范紫外吸收劑在化妝品中的使用提供技術(shù)支持。

        References

        1 ZHANG GuiMin. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2004, 27(2): 65-67

        張貴民. 日用化學品科學, 2004, 27(2): 65-67

        2 CAO XiaoHua, XIAO Duo. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis, 2013, 33(11): 3098-3100

        曹小華, 肖 鐸. 光譜學與光譜分析 , 2013, 33(11): 3098-3100

        3 Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics. Ministry of Health, People′s Republic of China. 2007

        化妝品衛(wèi)生規(guī)范. 中華人民共和國衛(wèi)生部, 2007

        4 Sunscreen Drug Products for OvertheCounter Human Use. Food and Drug Administration. USA, 2004

        5 XIA Ping, LI Yong. Journal of Environment and Health, 1997, 14(5): 227-228

        夏 平, 李 勇. 環(huán)境與健康雜志, 1997, 14(5): 227-228

        6 QIU ZhengJun, LU JiangFeng, HE Yong, FANG Hui. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis, 2007, (7): 1408-1411

        裘正軍, 陸江鋒, 何 勇, 方 慧. 光譜學與光譜分析, 2007, (7): 1408-1411

        7 HE QiaoSang, XU Na, LI Jing, LIAO ShangFu. Chinese Journal of Chromatography, 2011, 29(8): 762-767

        何喬桑, 徐 娜, 李 晶, 廖上富. 色譜, 2011, 29(8): 762-767

        8 LIN WeiXuan, SUN XingQuan, MA Jie. Chinese Journal of Chromatography, 2013, 31(5): 410-415

        林維宣, 孫興權(quán), 馬 杰. 色譜, 2013, 31: 410-415

        9 Wharton M, Geary M, O′Connor N, Murphy B. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33: 164-170

        10 SN/T20322002, Determination of Ultraviolet Absorbents in the Import and Export Cosmetics. EntryExit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau of the People′s Republic of China

        進出口化妝品中紫外吸收劑的測定. 中華人民共和國出入境檢驗檢疫局. SN/T2032-2002

        11 Yang H Y, Li H F, Ito M, Lin J M, Guo G S, Ding M Y. Sci. China Chem., 2011, 54(10): 1627-163

        12 Peruchi L M, Rath S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 226-233

        13 Chisvert A, Tarazona I, Salvador A. Anal. Chim. Acta, 2013, (790): 61-67

        14 Júnior J B G, Araujo T A, Trindade M A G, Ferreira V S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 91-96

        Simultaneous Determination of Eleven Ultaviolet Absorbents in

        Cosmetics by High Performance Liquid Chromatography

        HUANG XiongFeng1,2, LIU LüYe2, XU Qun2, ZHUANG GuoShun*1, DU JunWei2

        1(Department of Environmental Science and Technology,F(xiàn)udan University, Shanghai 200433, China)

        2(ThermoFisher Scientific, Shanghai 200051, China)

        Abstract An accurate, fast and sensitive method based on high performance liquid chromatography was established for the simultaneous determination of eleven ultraviolet absorbents in cosmetics. Eleven ultraviolet absorbents were baseline separated on an Acclaim C18 column within 11.5 min using acetonitrile0.1% formic acid in water (V/V) mobile phase, and detected at 361 nm with UV detection. Under the optimized conditions, the relative standard derivations (RSDs) of the eleven ultraviolet absorbents were all less than 0.1% for retention time, and less than 1.2% for peak area; good linearity was obtained from 5 to and 500 mg/L with the correlation coefficients of above 0.9990 for these analytes; the recoveries spiked in a cosmetic sample were in the range of 77%-116%. Benzophenone3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexylsalicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest. The results indicated that this method had potential for applications due to its convenience, accuracy and sensitivity. Oxybenzone, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2ethylhexyl salicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest.

        Keywords Ultraviolet absorbents; Cosmetic; High performance liquid chromatography

        (Received 27 July 2014; Accepted 8 October 2014)

        進出口化妝品中紫外吸收劑的測定. 中華人民共和國出入境檢驗檢疫局. SN/T2032-2002

        11 Yang H Y, Li H F, Ito M, Lin J M, Guo G S, Ding M Y. Sci. China Chem., 2011, 54(10): 1627-163

        12 Peruchi L M, Rath S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 226-233

        13 Chisvert A, Tarazona I, Salvador A. Anal. Chim. Acta, 2013, (790): 61-67

        14 Júnior J B G, Araujo T A, Trindade M A G, Ferreira V S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 91-96

        Simultaneous Determination of Eleven Ultaviolet Absorbents in

        Cosmetics by High Performance Liquid Chromatography

        HUANG XiongFeng1,2, LIU LüYe2, XU Qun2, ZHUANG GuoShun*1, DU JunWei2

        1(Department of Environmental Science and Technology,F(xiàn)udan University, Shanghai 200433, China)

        2(ThermoFisher Scientific, Shanghai 200051, China)

        Abstract An accurate, fast and sensitive method based on high performance liquid chromatography was established for the simultaneous determination of eleven ultraviolet absorbents in cosmetics. Eleven ultraviolet absorbents were baseline separated on an Acclaim C18 column within 11.5 min using acetonitrile0.1% formic acid in water (V/V) mobile phase, and detected at 361 nm with UV detection. Under the optimized conditions, the relative standard derivations (RSDs) of the eleven ultraviolet absorbents were all less than 0.1% for retention time, and less than 1.2% for peak area; good linearity was obtained from 5 to and 500 mg/L with the correlation coefficients of above 0.9990 for these analytes; the recoveries spiked in a cosmetic sample were in the range of 77%-116%. Benzophenone3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexylsalicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest. The results indicated that this method had potential for applications due to its convenience, accuracy and sensitivity. Oxybenzone, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2ethylhexyl salicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest.

        Keywords Ultraviolet absorbents; Cosmetic; High performance liquid chromatography

        (Received 27 July 2014; Accepted 8 October 2014)

        進出口化妝品中紫外吸收劑的測定. 中華人民共和國出入境檢驗檢疫局. SN/T2032-2002

        11 Yang H Y, Li H F, Ito M, Lin J M, Guo G S, Ding M Y. Sci. China Chem., 2011, 54(10): 1627-163

        12 Peruchi L M, Rath S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 226-233

        13 Chisvert A, Tarazona I, Salvador A. Anal. Chim. Acta, 2013, (790): 61-67

        14 Júnior J B G, Araujo T A, Trindade M A G, Ferreira V S. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, (34): 91-96

        Simultaneous Determination of Eleven Ultaviolet Absorbents in

        Cosmetics by High Performance Liquid Chromatography

        HUANG XiongFeng1,2, LIU LüYe2, XU Qun2, ZHUANG GuoShun*1, DU JunWei2

        1(Department of Environmental Science and Technology,F(xiàn)udan University, Shanghai 200433, China)

        2(ThermoFisher Scientific, Shanghai 200051, China)

        Abstract An accurate, fast and sensitive method based on high performance liquid chromatography was established for the simultaneous determination of eleven ultraviolet absorbents in cosmetics. Eleven ultraviolet absorbents were baseline separated on an Acclaim C18 column within 11.5 min using acetonitrile0.1% formic acid in water (V/V) mobile phase, and detected at 361 nm with UV detection. Under the optimized conditions, the relative standard derivations (RSDs) of the eleven ultraviolet absorbents were all less than 0.1% for retention time, and less than 1.2% for peak area; good linearity was obtained from 5 to and 500 mg/L with the correlation coefficients of above 0.9990 for these analytes; the recoveries spiked in a cosmetic sample were in the range of 77%-116%. Benzophenone3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexylsalicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest. The results indicated that this method had potential for applications due to its convenience, accuracy and sensitivity. Oxybenzone, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2ethylhexyl salicylatec and homosalate were found in the detected cosmetic samples, and the concentration of homosalate was the highest.

        Keywords Ultraviolet absorbents; Cosmetic; High performance liquid chromatography

        (Received 27 July 2014; Accepted 8 October 2014)

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