瑪勒塔·洛?？ɡ?Martta Louekari

葉揚譯/Translated by YE Yang

我希望你坐飛機來赫爾辛基。因為這是速度最快、路程最短的方式，讓你能快點兒到這里跟我在一起。當(dāng)飛機穿過最后一道云層，你會看到覆蓋了冰冷冬霧的森林、有著冰層的湖泊、遍布各處的小房子，正迎來冰冷的清晨。環(huán)繞赫爾辛基的波羅的海，讓這里的冬季比同緯度的內(nèi)陸地區(qū)更暖和。

機場的規(guī)模和氣氛將使你對這個城市有一個初步的印象。它很小，但舒適、便捷。赫爾辛基大區(qū)有150萬人，與中國的小城市相當(dāng)。當(dāng)你到達這個城市，你會看到兩旁是1920年代和1950年代住宅、公園的小路，以及旁邊有著商店和咖啡館的林蔭道。一切都是小尺度的。

赫爾辛基沒有高聳的建筑。1895年，赫爾辛基城市規(guī)劃辦公室制定了相關(guān)規(guī)定，要求保持城市的天際線不變，但是現(xiàn)在情況改變了，赫爾辛基開始從中心地帶向外擴張。

你會看到一些建筑工地，因為在這個時候，赫爾辛基正經(jīng)歷一場翻天覆地的變革。舊的濱水區(qū)域，主要是工業(yè)和港口區(qū)，正在進行開發(fā)，那里將成為市民生活及從事商業(yè)活動的新地區(qū)，而在海邊散步休閑是大家都樂意做的事。

這是訪問赫爾辛基最好的一年，因為赫爾辛基被選為“世界設(shè)計之都”?！笆澜缭O(shè)計之都” 這一活動由國際工業(yè)設(shè)計協(xié)會發(fā)起，以宣揚設(shè)計的意義。該活動每兩年舉辦一次，獲選城市在以設(shè)計為杠桿推動社會、文化和經(jīng)濟生活方面有著突出的成績。2012年的赫爾辛基，將發(fā)生很多事，舉辦很多活動和聚會。

我想帶你去看一些很棒的新建筑項目，它們由我的朋友設(shè)計。我們一起去K2S建筑師事務(wù)所設(shè)計的木造教堂。這座小教堂不提供傳統(tǒng)的服務(wù)，它是一個讓人來冥想的簡單場所。它很美，看起來像木造的宇宙飛船，在這個全木造的空間里，你會喪失時間感和聽覺。我想，這種感覺就像森林中的小蟲子在樹皮與樹木之中冬眠一樣。

我們該去看看托馬斯·托伊沃寧和奈奈·坪井設(shè)計的新桑拿。公共桑拿現(xiàn)在依然在芬蘭很盛行，是和朋友們一起放松一下的地方。最著名的建筑師阿爾瓦·阿爾托早在1920年代就提出，芬蘭應(yīng)該有更具文化意義的桑拿?，F(xiàn)在，托馬斯和奈奈正在將這個夢想付諸實踐，創(chuàng)造可以作為文化空間的公共桑拿。我相信，奈奈將帶我們?nèi)巧系耐ぷ永锖炔琛Ｕ麄€冬季，赫爾辛基港口都是開放的，在那里，5艘破冰船的剪影后面，我們可以看到赫爾辛基的海灣、許多小島和芬蘭堡。

在芬蘭，獨特的競賽文化使新人得以嶄露頭角，他們能夠有機會獲得重要的委托。在芬蘭，大量的重要建筑脫胎于建筑競標(biāo)的結(jié)果。競標(biāo)通常是匿名的，學(xué)生也可以參加。許多規(guī)模數(shù)一數(shù)二的新建筑項目委托給了年輕的事務(wù)所。芬蘭埃斯波的克蔻加爾維綜合學(xué)校和挪威克里斯蒂安桑的克爾頓演藝中心都是這一現(xiàn)象的好例子。

我想，你會驚訝于赫爾辛基的寂靜。每次我從中國回來，也總感到吃驚。即使在城市里，仍然能時時處處感到自然的存在。現(xiàn)在，三月了，白天變得長了一點兒，我很快就會聽到海邊第一群海鷗的鳴叫和窗外畫眉的啼鳴。

日轉(zhuǎn)為夜，寂靜的藍光包圍著我寫作的書桌。我現(xiàn)在不得不停筆，多泡些茶，找找我的羊毛襪。祝福你們。我是多么期待不久之后能在赫爾辛基見到你們啊!

致以最誠摯的問候，

瑪勒塔 □

I hope you arrive Helsinki by plane. Because it is the quickest and shortest way, and you will be sooner here with me. When the plane passes the last clouds, you will see forest covered the of frozen winter mist, lakes with thin layer of ice, small houses here and there, waking up to the wintery morning. The Baltic Sea, that surrounds Helsinki,makes winter milder here than it is inland areas in these latitudes.

The size and atmosphere of the airport will you give the idea of the city already. It is small, but cosy and well functioned. The greater Helsinki region has 1.5 million people, the size is the same than a small city in China. When you arrive the city, you will see small roads with the houses from 1920's and 1950's, parks and boulevards with shops and cafes.Everything is small scale.

Helsinki has no high risers. The rules set up by The Helsinki City Planning Office already at 1895 has kept the skyline of the city even, but now the situation is about change, as Helsinki starts to run out of the space in central areas.

You will also see some building sites, because at the moment, Helsinki is going through massive changes, when old waterfront areas, mainly industrial and harbor areas, are under development creating citizens new places to live and do business,promenade and spend time by the seaside, which we like so much.

This is good year to visit Helsinki, because Helsinki is World Design Capital. The World Design Capital. An initiative by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID) World Design Capital celebrates the merits of design. Held biennially, it seeks to highlight the accomplishments of cities that are truly leveraging design as a tool to improve the social, cultural and economic life of cities. Many things, events and gatherings will take place Helsinki at 2012.

I would like to take you to see some great new architecture projects designed by my friends.We can visit the wooden chapel by K2S Architects.This chapel has no traditional services, it is simple a place for people to came and meditate. It is beautiful, almost like wooden space craft, inside of whole wooden structure you loose sense of time and sound. I think it must be the similar kind of feeling,that forest insects have sleeping safely during the winter days in between the bark and the wood.

1 云城市，赫爾辛基，芬蘭/CLOUD CITY, Helsinki, Finland, 建筑設(shè)計/Architects: ALA建筑師事務(wù)所/ALA Architects, 圖片來源/Image courtesy of ALA Architects

We should go and visit Tuomas Toivonen and Nene Tsuboi in the new sauna they designed. Public saunas are still popular in Finland, it is place to go with the friends to relax. The most famous architect, Alvar Aalto proposed already in 1920s,that Finland should have cultural sauna. Now Tuomas and Nene are making the old dream to came true creating public sauna, which also can be used as cultural space. I am sure Nene will take us to drink some tea in the pavillion upstairs. From there,we can see the bay of Helsinki, some small islands and Suomenlinna fortress somewhere behind of the silhouettes of the 5 icebreakers that keep Helsinki harbor open during the winter.

In Finland, the unique competition culture provides new talent with opportunities to land powerful commissions. A significant percentage of the notable buildings in Finland have come about as a result of architectural competitions. The competitions are always anonymous and usually students can enter as well, many of our new architecture destinations are first or second large scale commission to young office. Kirkkoj?rvi school in Espoo, Finland and Kilden Performing Center,which is located in Kristiansand, Norway are both good examples of this phenomena.

I think you would be surprised by the silence of Helsinki. It always surprises me after my travels in China. Even in the city, nature is present in many ways. Now, when the days in March start to be longer, I can soon hear the first seagulls from the sea and the blackbird outside my window.

The day is turning into the evening and silent blue light surrounds my writing desk. I must stop now and make some more tea and look for my woolen socks. I wish you well. And I am looking so much forward to see you soon in Helsinki!

Best regards, Martta□