2004年5月登上海拔7021米的珠穆朗瑪峰北坳,2004年9月登上海拔8201米的世界第六高峰卓奧友峰,2005年5月繼而登上海拔7206米的寧金抗沙峰!廣西聯(lián)通公司的普通職員、22歲的羅麗莉這幾年來每年都要攀越一座高山,這個漂亮文靜、嬌小靦腆的女子,乍一看恐怕誰也不會想到她就是“廣西女子登山第一人”。別看她外表柔弱,骨子里卻有著非凡的堅韌與頑強,對高峰的攀登欲望絲毫不比任何一個男性弱。為登山做體力的準備,她甚至在逛街時也在褲腿里綁上八磅重的沙袋。在新年到來之際,已在為攀登珠峰作準備的羅麗莉,向筆者談起她攀登卓峰的經(jīng)歷和新年心愿。
向8201米卓峰進軍
2004年是人類攀登卓奧友峰50周年,中國登山協(xié)會組織了一系列攀登卓峰活動,并向羅麗莉發(fā)出了參加9月登卓峰活動的邀請。
位于西藏和尼泊爾交界的卓峰為世界第六高峰,與珠峰僅相距100公里,海拔8201米,羅麗莉怦然心動了。為了避免家人“不同意”,羅麗莉偷偷去成都報名回來才跟家人說:“我又要登山了,名也報了!”“真是拿你沒辦法了?!备赣H嘆口氣說。羅麗莉每次外出參加登山活動,幾乎都是瞞著家人先報名后“報告”的。
卓峰被常年的積雪和無數(shù)條冰川所覆蓋,海拔6900米到7200米之間是冰瀑區(qū),山勢陡峭,懸掛在山表的冰川就像一個個飛流而下的瀑布,給攀登造成很大的困難,而雪山上零下30度的氣溫和60米/秒的風速更是常人無法抵御,8000米以上的區(qū)域已被人類視為生命的禁區(qū),那里的高山反應將會使人迅速死亡。迄今為止,只在20多年前一位當?shù)氐牟刈迮巧絾T成功登上過這個峰頂。
8月12日,羅麗莉飛赴拉薩,開始了登卓峰之行。她到了拉薩才知此時只有3人前來報到。
登卓峰之前需要進行熱身活動,她攀登了6206米的啟孜峰,很快適應了高寒環(huán)境。然而下山在賓館洗了熱水澡后忘記了添加衣服,到了晚上她突然感覺鼻子不通,第二天便發(fā)起燒來:39.7℃!摸著滾燙的臉,羅麗莉忍不住哭了起來,她恨自己不爭氣,精心準備了這么多日子,難道就這樣功虧一簣了?父親從電話里得知女兒生病后,心疼地說:“回來吧,不要勉強自己?!钡岵坏梅艞夁@次難得的機會,她心里默默地祈禱自己能神奇地好起來。
第二天早上,她病情突然好轉,但全身仍感到軟綿綿的,她真擔心登山協(xié)會不讓她上山,因為發(fā)燒極易引發(fā)腦水腫和肺水腫,登如此高的山將會在幾小時內(nèi)死亡。當管理人員問她的身體狀況時,她做出很輕快的樣子回答:“完全好了!”還用力蹦跳了幾下。她用此法瞞過了工作人員的眼睛,最后工作人員將她“放行”了。
到達卓峰山腳大本營的這天,天氣晴朗,陽光燦爛。由于這天是攀登卓峰50周年紀念日,大本營聚集了好幾支登山隊伍,一時顯得十分熱鬧。望著天穹下潔白的雪山之巔,一個個情緒高昂。羅麗莉作為登山者中唯一的女性,吸引了眾多男隊員敬佩和好奇的目光。
不懼眼前“死亡之路”
9月20日,羅麗莉和隊友踏上了通向巔峰之路。登山伊始,卓峰就不斷地給他們“下馬威”:走著走著,他們看見幾名登山協(xié)作員從C2營地抬著一名登山者下山來,他的雙臂已被凍僵,毫無疑問,這雙手臂將被鋸掉。不久,又有一位瑞士登山者被扶著下山,他的鼻子已被凍得發(fā)黑,看來這只鼻子也將報廢……面對這些,羅麗莉確實有些心悸,登山前她已從資料上看到一個個傷心的故事:1999年一位瑞典登山者成功登山了卓峰山頂,可是下撤到7000米的C2營地后,不想在睡夢中悄然死去;2001年韓國登山隊長因高山病死亡;2003年猛烈的山風又把一位登山者吹下山脊摔死……這些往事讓人心寒,而現(xiàn)在危險和死亡切切實實地就在自己身邊,讓人心里不由生出恐懼感!然而倔強的她,終于戰(zhàn)勝了自己:“我一定要爬上去,完整地上去,完整地下來!”她心里不斷地重復著這句話,將恐懼按捺住。
卓峰的攀登線路特別漫長,從一個營地到下一個營地常常就讓人走得筋疲力盡。從大本營到達C1營地,花了近8個小時,但羅麗莉竟然是第一個到達。她雖然感冒初愈,卻沒有感到高山的不適,這讓她增強了不少信心。在休息營地她躺在被窩里,嶙峋的石表把人刺得難以入睡,可為了恢復體力,她只能強迫自己睡著。第二天繼續(xù)往C2營地進發(fā),途中羅麗莉看到了一老外在艱難地攀行,羅麗莉認得他,她在5月份攀登珠峰北坳時就見過他,那次攀登他的腿被凍壞而鋸掉了,現(xiàn)在他登山用的是一雙假腿?!案呱桨阉耐仁兆吡耍珱]有收走他的生命,他還是要登山,真是讓人受敬佩啊?!绷_麗莉深有感觸地說。“你給我們也是一個很大的激勵,你一個女孩子都來登山,我們大男人更不能后退!”隊員們說。登山中大家相互鼓勵著,一步一步地向頂峰攀行。
又經(jīng)過8個小時的艱難攀行,到達C2營地,這里便是冰瀑區(qū)了。寬闊無邊的冰川在陽光下閃爍著耀眼的藍光,顯出別樣的美麗。羅麗莉不由為眼前的風景所折服,忘記了寒冷,竟脫下厚厚的手套按快門,高山協(xié)作員急忙趕過來制止她。因為這里的氣溫已是零下20多度,裸露的皮膚瞬間就會被凍死,羅麗莉不好意思地朝他們做了個鬼臉。
站在8201米巔峰
進入7000米區(qū)域,環(huán)境隨之變得極度的惡劣,堅硬的冰川讓登山鞋難以扎住冰棱,猛烈的山風更吹得人站立不穩(wěn)。羅麗莉用冰鎬開路,挖一個坑走一步。途中,她突然看到一名登山者在數(shù)百米下的一處石縫里掙扎著,最后又滑下山去,羅麗莉自己也站立不穩(wěn),當然無法救他。唉,攀登雪山就是這么殘酷!接著兩名高山協(xié)作員又出現(xiàn)高山反應,直叫頭昏,羅麗莉只好放慢步伐照顧他們;本來他們是上山照顧她的,現(xiàn)在倒反過來了。隨著向7700米的C3營地邁進,羅麗莉也出現(xiàn)了高山反應,腦袋像要脹裂一般,每走一步都變得十分艱難。這時她又發(fā)現(xiàn),她的登山靴不合腳,她的腳后跟被磨破了,每走一步都鉆心地疼。故而一瞬間羅麗莉的腦子里閃現(xiàn)出放棄再往上攀登的念頭,然而她咬咬牙,很快又將它否定了。
到了C3營地后,凌晨1時羅麗莉開始了向巔峰沖刺。半夜里風力小,容易站得穩(wěn)些,然而迷蒙的夜色無法看清前方的路,這也是另一種危險。夜色中,羅麗莉揮鎬挖冰,冰鎬撞在冰川上發(fā)出的火花清晰可見,她頭頂?shù)奶綗?,只能照出十米開外,前方怎么走?羅麗莉心里根本沒底,她只有憑著感覺一步步地往上移。這時的羅麗莉,已經(jīng)沒有時間概念,心里唯有一種意識,那就是走,不停地走!天漸漸亮了,羅麗莉的腳底下出現(xiàn)了一抹紅色,這是陽光照在低于她的平流層上。她揮鎬正要挖下一個坑時,羅麗莉忽然發(fā)現(xiàn)前方已沒有坡,抬頭一看,眼前出現(xiàn)的那是一個巨大的平臺!啊,到巔了!8201米之巔!羅麗莉興奮不已地扔掉鎬頭,伸出雙臂,作出一個擁抱群山的姿勢。處在8000米之上的人,其智力已降至7歲兒童的水平,但此時此刻的她仍忘不了掏出事先準備好的五星紅旗,用雙手高高地舉起,她要讓五星紅旗在雪山之巔迎風招展……
這時,一位外國登山員也登上了平臺。他望著比他先到的羅麗莉,驚駭?shù)煤喼辈桓蚁嘈抛约旱难劬Γ路鹆_麗莉是山頂上的天仙!“你是誰?”他問。“我是中國女孩!”羅麗莉用英語自豪地回答。老外激動地撲過來抱住羅麗莉,連聲贊嘆:“Chinese womem,NO.1(中國女人,第一號)!”
立志登珠峰采奧運圣火
羅麗莉的父親是山東人,身軀高大、體魄強健、性格粗獷,是典型的山東大漢形象,然而出生在南寧的羅麗莉沒有接受父親的“真?zhèn)鳌?,生就一副南國女孩的模樣,容貌清秀,小巧玲瓏,所以她在這個家庭里是個“另類”,由此她反惹得父母格外的憐愛。然而父母很快發(fā)現(xiàn),麗莉一點不像他們所期望的小花,要多調(diào)皮有多調(diào)皮,她攀墻爬樹、和胡同里的男孩子打架是經(jīng)常的事。由于麗莉玩得瘋玩得野,因此男同學們、鄰居男孩們有什么戶外活動都喜歡叫上她。她高中畢業(yè)后不久的一天,一幫男孩子帶著她來到了市郊的伊嶺巖??粗@鬼斧神工從半山腰切出來的一座峭壁,羅麗莉突然覺得她要是能夠征服這個峭壁,那真是偉大!于是她從此愛上了攀巖。每天周末,羅麗莉就把自己掛到了郊區(qū)的石壁上,一直樂此不疲,“看到石壁就手癢”。在她看來,攀巖登山千般苦萬般難,但登上山頂?shù)哪欠N喜悅和自豪,是什么也無法比擬的。
登山者需要強健的體質(zhì)和頑強的毅力,羅麗莉除了周末堅持外出攀巖外,平日里也十分注重體質(zhì)鍛煉。她上班是在大廈的30層,但她很少乘電梯,堅持步行30層上下班。在登雪山前的幾個月,她還在腿上綁8磅重的沙袋上班、下班和逛街,“別看我這么瘦弱的樣子,比我大的男子我一把就能抱起他?!辈稍L中,羅麗莉自豪地說。
從2004年,羅麗莉登上了5000多米的哈巴雪山;5月再登上7021米的珠峰北坳;9月,又登上卓峰;2005年5月,再登上海拔7206米的寧金抗沙峰。自從她登上8201米的卓峰后,根據(jù)國家的有關規(guī)定,羅麗莉就自然成為國家級專業(yè)登山運動員,具備了攀登珠穆朗瑪峰的資格。據(jù)了解,2008年北京奧運會圣火火種將由一位少女在珠峰之巔用凸鏡迎著太陽光采集,而珠峰8844米的海拔,一般人無法企及,因此北京奧組委決定取火少女由中國登山協(xié)會推薦。羅麗莉是近20多年來第一位登上8000米高峰的中國姑娘,她有望成為這名萬人矚目的少女。中國登山協(xié)會表示,將把羅麗莉作為取火候選人向北京奧組委推薦,他們還認為長相美麗、氣質(zhì)頗佳的羅麗莉很有可能成為最終人選。
“登上珠峰之巔,將是我最大的夢想?!绷_麗莉興奮地告訴筆者,2006年4月她將攀登珠峰,為奧運登珠峰采集火種作熱身,目前已在做準備工作。筆者預祝她登珠峰成功!
Woman Mountaineer Conquers Peaks
By Wan Xin
It is hard to imagine how Luo Lili, a petite and quiet 22-year-old girl and ordinary clerk at Guangxi Unicom, can be a brave mountain climber who has pushed her way up to the tops of a number of peaks 7,000 meters above sea level.
Her trek to the 8,201 meter peak of Mount Cho Oyu in September 2004 is an unforgettable memory for her.
The year 2004 marked the 50th anniversary of the first human success in getting to the top of Mount Cho Oyu. Luo Lili was invited by the China Mountaineering Association to scale the mountain in September. It was a big challenge to Luo. Located on the border of China and Nepal and only about 100 kilometers from Mount Qomolangma, Cho Oyu is the 6th highest mountain in the world.
She rose to the challenge. On August 12 she flew to Lhasa. After a warming-up expedition to a 6,206-meter peak, she took a hot bath at the hotel, but forgot to dress warm afterwards. She was down with a fever. After a day's rest and silent prayer, however, she got better and the fever was gone. When the team manager came to check on her health conditions, she lied that she was okay.
She reached the base camp on a sunny day where a few teams had gathered in celebration of the 50th anniversary. The snowy peak towered against the backdrop of the cerulean vault of heaven. As the only woman there, she attracted a lot of attention from other climbers.
On September 20, Luo and her fellow climbers began to the ascending trip. She soon became aware of the vicious threat of the peak. A few supporters carried a mountaineer down from Camp 2. The climber's two arms were frozen stiff. The arms would have to be amputated later. Then she met a Swiss climber whose frozen nose turned blackened, which would have to be cut off. When the harsh reality sank in, Luo was a bit scared. She had read about deaths that had occurred to climbers who tried to surmount Cho Oyu. The way to the peak was even described as a way to death. Memories of these deaths flashed back to her then and there. But she decided to press on. She repeatedly told herself, \"I will get to the top safely and come back safe and sound.\"It took her almost 8 hours to cover the distance from the base camp to Camp 1. She was even way ahead of her fellow climbers. She felt well miraculously. After a night's rest in a tent on the rocky ground, she started her journey to Camp 2. On the way, she met a foreigner whom she had met when trekking to the north face of Qomolangma in May, 2004. The foreigner had lost his two legs on that trip and now he was back on the two artificial feet. Luo was deeply touched and greatly inspired. After another 8-hour march, she arrived at Camp 2. Seeing the wide-ranging glacier shining blue, she got out her camera and took off her gloves to take pictures. But her supporters stopped her immediately. Her fingers could have got frozen under the killing temperature. She made faces apologetically to the supporters.
Conditions after Camp 2 became extremely grueling. It was hard to find footholds on the rigid surface of the glacier. Wind was ferocious. Luo used the ice pickaxe to hack footholds to inch upward. On her way up, she looked downwards, and suddenly spotted a climber several hundreds of meters down struggling in a rock crevice. The climber could not hold on and helplessly slipped out of sight. At that moment, she felt helpless to save him. As she trudged up and up, her two supporters began to suffer from the high altitude reaction and felt sick. Luo had to slow down and took care of them. Before she reached Camp 3 at 7,700 meters above sea level, she herself suffered a splitting headache. Every step meant pain. And her heels had blisters because of the unfitted shoes. For a second, she toyed with the idea of giving up. But with dogged determination, she fought her way up.
After a short rest at C3, Luo Lili set out on the last charge at 1 am. She did so for a reason. Wind was not so fierce at midnight so that she would not have to waste so much energy in fighting the wind. But the danger of losing her way lurked. The head light could only reach about 10 meters ahead. She could see the sparks flying as she hacked her way up with the ice pickaxe on the slope. She inched forward and groped her way up. When dawn came, she suddenly found there was no more slope and she was on a huge platform. Her ecstasy knew no bounds as she realized she had reached the tiptop. She threw off the pickaxe and lifted her arms as if to embrace the mountain top. She got out the five-star flag and held it high in the wind. Just at this time, a foreigner also appeared on the top. Seeing a climber getting to the top ahead of him, he just couldn't believe his eyes. “Who are you?”he asked incredibly. “I am a Chinese girl!”Luo answered proudly. The foreigner was excited. They hugged. He exclaimed, “Chinese woman, No. 1!”Luo was a tomboy in her childhood years. Boys loved to have her around on their adventure trips to mountains. It was on one of these trips that she first tasted the sweetness of conquering a steep rock cliff.And she fell in love with rock climbing. No longer contented with ordinarily cliffs and rocks, Luo became serious about mountaineering in 2004. The first mountain she surmounted was Mount Haba at 5,396 meters above sea level. In May 2004, she trekked to the 7,021-meter north face of Qomolangma. And in September, she conquered Cho Oyu. In May 2005, she pushed her way to the top of Nojin Kansa, a 7,200 meter peak in the Himalayas. According to a qualification rule of the state sports authorities, any Chinese who has conquered a peak at 8,000 meters above sea level automatically qualifies as a professional mountaineer. It is said that Luo Lili is the only Chinese woman who has scaled a mountain at 8,000 meters above sea level in the last 20 years. The China Mountaineering Association has recommended Luo Lili to the Organizing Committee of Beijing 2008 Olympics Games for climbing to the top of Qomolangma, the world's highest peak and collecting the divine fire for the Olympic torch.
Luo is now busy preparing for new trips to mountain tops. She walks upstairs all the way to her 30th-floor office every workday. While doing shopping, she wears 8-pound sandbags on her legs.
(Translated by David)