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        慈禧太后祭陵鐵路今昔

        2006-01-01 00:00:00嚴介生
        文化交流 2006年2期

        八國聯(lián)軍退出北京,逃亡西安的慈禧“回鑾”后宣布要坐火車去西陵祭祖,下令為她趕筑一條全長42.5公里的“祭陵專線”:新易鐵路,也叫祭陵鐵路。

        世界上有各式各樣的鐵路專線,供皇太后祭陵專用的鐵路恐怕絕無僅有,慈禧對乘務人員的要求更是千奇百怪。然而用60萬兩銀子筑造的這條鐵路,慈禧只用過一次,也談不上經(jīng)濟價值。不過它是中國土地上第一條由中國工程師主持筑造的鐵路,英、法兩國為爭當此路的總工程師而相持不下,使這個任務意外地落到一位中國人詹天佑身上,這一非同尋常的實踐,證明中國人當時就能自己造鐵路。

        “老佛爺”要坐火車祭祖

        慈禧決定要坐火車去西陵祭祖,那是八國聯(lián)軍退出北京之后的事。

        曾經(jīng)下達“向各國宣戰(zhàn)”諭旨,聲稱“與其茍且圖存,貽羞萬古,孰若大張撻伐,一決雌雄”的慈禧太后,終于可以從逃亡地西安攜光緒返回北京了,途中,她對臣民宣稱:“此次劫難,多虧列祖列宗神佑,回鑾后一定要祭祖。子孫不孝,使大清遭此涂炭,自當去請罪?!?/p>

        這回她說到做到,1902年4月便拜謁了東陵。慈禧先祭東陵的“祖”是合乎情理的:清朝入關后第一個皇帝順治、清朝鼎盛時期的兩位皇帝康熙和乾隆,都安葬在東陵。更重要的是慈禧的丈夫咸豐、兒子同治,他們的陵墓也都在東陵。在歷經(jīng)了這么一場大劫難之后,她心里有多少苦楚、多少委屈、多少怨恨、前程又有多少難題、多少風險,都得向他們傾訴!再說,慈禧自己的陵墓也選在東陵,正在修造,開工至今已8年多,建得怎樣了她也要實地察看一番。

        慈禧此時已經(jīng)年屆67歲了,雖然身體保養(yǎng)得很好,但從北京到地處遵化縣長城腳下的東陵,一個往返便是250公里的路程,雖然不用她走路,但鑾駕長途顛簸之苦還是要受的。所以去西陵事讓她猶豫再三,終于想到西陵可以坐火車去:從京漢鐵路的高碑店站分岔,修一條直達梁各莊的鐵路支線就到西陵了!再說慈禧已經(jīng)有過一次乘坐火車的經(jīng)歷:她與光緒等從西安“回鑾”,到達保定之后就是乘上火車直達北京的。

        第一次坐火車的感覺真好。太后、皇上及皇后被安排在兩輛特制的“龍車”里,據(jù)《北方的紅星》一書載,這是長辛店機廠(二七機車車輛廠前身)負責裝修的。八國聯(lián)軍退出之后,該廠干的第一件大事就是為迎接太后回京趕造“龍車”。廠里有兩輛進口的外國包車當然很高級,但那是按洋人的想法設計的,不合清朝皇室的要求,必須徹底改裝,為此長辛店機廠請來了著名木匠王翠照著“吉祥如意”、“龍鳳呈祥”的意思,在車廂內(nèi)雕龍刻鳳,內(nèi)壁都換上了黃綾子。包車內(nèi)原有的座位全部拆掉,然后將與宮里一樣的寶座安在車廂里。

        迎接慈禧回京的是一趟精心準備的專列,由21輛車組成,其中9輛裝滿了搜刮來的財寶,開龍車的司機是法國人祚曼,已經(jīng)執(zhí)掌直隸總督大權的袁世凱也上車護駕,這使慈禧十分滿意,給了他“穿黃馬褂和紫禁城騎馬”的賞賜。清朝“流亡政府”就這樣浩浩蕩蕩、氣派十足地由洋火車載回京城。

        由于有了坐火車回皇城的經(jīng)歷,“老佛爺”覺得再次坐火車去西陵祭祖是個不錯的主意。于是她下令斥資60萬兩白銀,為她修一條祭陵專用鐵路,并美其名曰是“朝廷廑念”百姓的善舉(當時一兩白銀可購糧一石,合今60公斤)

        詹天佑意外受重用

        清西陵比東陵小,位于河北省易縣,在北京東南130公里處太行山余脈群山環(huán)抱的平川上,泰陵(雍正)、昌陵(嘉慶)、慕陵(道光)加上后來光緒的崇陵依次分布于山腳之下,另有后陵3座,妃園寢4座,共埋藏著9個皇后、57個妃嬪。

        慈禧的祭陵專線從今京廣線高碑店站引出,向西跨南拒馬河和易水支流,直達易州梁各莊,全長42.5公里。高碑店屬新城縣,所以此路當時稱新易鐵路,也稱西陵鐵路。

        慈禧把修筑新易鐵路的事交給袁世凱負責,要求在6個月內(nèi)竣工。時間緊迫,袁世凱想請英國工程師金達主持筑路工程,金達在當時的中國是很有名氣的鐵路工程專家,曾設計過著名的“中國火箭”號簡易蒸汽機車。

        不料法國公使聽到清廷要聘任金達當總工程師十分不滿,向清政府提出強烈抗議,理由是:正在修筑的盧漢鐵路雖然用的是比利時公司的貸款,但法國是比利時的后臺老板,注入了4/5的資金,而新易鐵路從盧漢鐵路分岔引出,是盧漢路的支線,理當由法國工程師來主持設計建造,英國聽到此說,不想也不肯讓步。

        英、法曾經(jīng)聯(lián)合起來侵略大清,現(xiàn)在為了各自的利益又相互爭奪,都想把自己的工程師推薦去筑新易鐵路,這可把袁世凱難住了,清廷腐敗,誰也得罪不起,而時間又不等人,無奈之下袁世凱放棄了任用外國工程師的初衷,改任梁如浩為總辦、詹天佑為總工程師,由中國人自己來筑。

        詹天佑當年41歲,1881年美國耶魯大學畢業(yè)回國后,過了7年經(jīng)留美同學鄺孫謀舉薦,于1888年參加過津唐鐵路(唐山至天津)的修建,職務是“幫工程司”,在現(xiàn)場指揮鋪軌作業(yè)。此后不久又參與了唐山向山海關延展的關內(nèi)外鐵路的施工。詹天佑在上述建設中表現(xiàn)出高超技能和苦干精神,深得袁世凱賞識。

        1902年10月19日,袁世凱正式任命詹天佑為新易鐵路總工程師。名義上詹天佑是梁如浩的助手,實際上卻肩負著全盤的重任。詹天佑的大女婿王金職也是一位留美的鐵路工程師,他寫的《詹天佑生平事略》中,說到了詹天佑當時面臨著三大困難:一是季節(jié)不佳;二是材料短缺;三是工期緊迫。然而詹天佑不僅技術精湛,而且有超乎尋常的組織能力,善于從實際出發(fā),機動靈活地應對各種困難。

        1903年2月下旬,這條單線準軌鐵路提前竣工。袁世凱親自驗收后向慈禧寫了奏折稱:“臣查此項工程,前奉諭旨本限六個月報竣,今僅四月即已完工,所需款項,不過60萬兩。”看得出來,袁世凱很有點洋洋自得,他慶幸自己用對了人,詹天佑為他增了光。

        駕駛“祭陵專列”的張美

        在詹天佑日夜兼程修筑鐵路的同時,時任鐵路總公司督辦大臣的盛宣懷也在忙碌著。修筑祭陵專線由袁世凱負責,專列的準備和運行則是盛宣懷的事,為此他特地從上海趕到了北京。所有籌備工作中最重要的一件事情,是物色一名技術精湛、為人可靠的火車司機。部下向他推薦了好幾個,經(jīng)過篩選他選中了27歲的張美。

        有關張美的資料留存很少。原《北京鐵道報》的王真先生曾在一篇文章中談到:1947年他在平津鐵路管理局第一運輸總段段長室為工人時,曾見到過身材魁梧的張美。當時,張美擔任張垣(張家口)機務段段長職務,有一天他來總段辦事,與總段長閑談中曾描述他當年給慈禧太后開火車的事。王真說當時他正在室內(nèi),聽到他們的交談留下深刻印象。1985年時,王真萌發(fā)了要寫寫張美的念頭,經(jīng)過幾番尋覓,找到了張美的侄子、兒子、兒媳和孫女,了解到不少情況,爾后他著文概敘了張美近乎傳奇的一生:他出身很苦,八國聯(lián)軍進攻天津時,父親被俄國侵略軍槍殺,生活無著的張美很小就給漁主打短工,13歲進鐵路,在機務段當童工,先是當擦車夫,由于勤快肯出力,很快升為燒火的司爐。又過了一段時間他被送進“機務傳習所”學習駕駛機車的技術。張美很聰明,又刻苦好學,進步很快,18歲就當上了機車司機。后來升任了機務段長,還當過總稽查、視察員等職。解放后,張美受到黨和政府的尊重,被安排當過鐵道部顧問,于1958年去世。

        張美被推薦給盛宣懷,盡管有人打保票,說別看他年輕但駕駛技術、經(jīng)驗在京津一帶鐵路上是數(shù)一數(shù)二的,但盛宣懷仍不放心。盛宣懷原本只是個區(qū)區(qū)鐵路總公司督辦,不想在八國聯(lián)軍入侵期間,他在洋人授意下倡導了“東南互?!保蚨曪@赫起來。盛宣懷這次能籌辦祭陵專列直接為慈禧效勞,是他進一步飛黃騰達的難得機遇,他一心想在主子面前露一手,要侍候得“老佛爺”心滿意足。再說盛宣懷與袁世凱關系緊張,袁的一伙不斷攻擊他,虎視眈眈地要把盛宣懷主管的鐵路、電報等賺錢的事奪過去,所以盛宣懷真的不敢怠慢,每件事每個環(huán)節(jié)都親自過問、過目,可說是一絲不茍。盛宣懷顧不得二品大員的高貴身份,接見了整天在火車頭上忙活的年輕人,他鄭重其事地對張美說:“我辦這份皇差耗資300萬兩白銀,你這次開車送老佛爺,不但你全家性命,就連我全家性命和我的前程,也都包在你身上了!”話說得再直白不過了,張美自然聽得懂。他對盛世宣懷說了些什么,王真先生的文中沒有記述,反正沒使盛宣懷失望。這次談話之后,由張美來為慈禧和光緒開這趟祭陵專列的事就最后確定了。

        光緒二十九年三月初八(1903年4月5日),天未明光緒皇帝就出了宮,踩著用黃沙新鋪墊的大道,率王公大臣乘轎徑向永定門火車站而來,一路旌旗華蓋絡繹不絕。片刻,慈禧也帶著大批隨員到達,皇帝和百官跪迎,慈禧和皇帝在太監(jiān)攙扶下上了火車,進入各自的包房。

        這趟“龍鳳專列”,被裝飾一新:車頭前交叉立起兩面杏黃色的大清國龍旗,“龍車”里布置得富麗堂皇,如同宮殿。放在車廂門口的不是車梯,而是專造的與車門一樣寬的坡形平臺,兩邊加了欄桿,鋪上地毯。據(jù)《御香縹緲錄》描述:太后一群登車之時,所有機車、列車上的人員都齊整地跪在地上,低頭屏息,待太后和皇帝在車廂坐定之后,大家才站起身來回到自己的崗位開始操作;太后還命令列車上全體工役都穿起朝靴、戴起朝帽,打扮成太監(jiān)模樣。

        慈禧上車時,唯一不跪的只有司機張美,因為這時他要檢查機車走行部的全部零件,連一顆螺絲都不能放過。張美不愧是一個好司機,他不慌不忙,沉著駕車,起動、停車都非常平穩(wěn),沒讓慈禧感到一點兒顛簸。

        慈禧對這次祭陵專列的乘務工作十分滿意,嘉獎了詹天佑和司機張美,并賞賜張美黃馬褂一件,藍頂花翎一頂,封知府銜,這在清末的火車司機中可能是獨一無二的榮光了!獎給詹天佑的是慈禧包房中的全部擺設,詹天佑只取了一個小座鐘作紀念,其余物品分給筑路的員工。

        “祭陵專線”的前世今生

        詹天佑在慈禧祭陵之后又忙活了一段時間,把臨時的便橋加固為永久性的正式橋梁,對原來鋪得較稀的枕木按標準補足。

        新易鐵路對當時發(fā)展經(jīng)濟來說沒有多少意義,但從另一個角度看,新易是第一條由中國工程師自己設計并獨立主持建成的鐵路,這條鐵路的興建說明了當時的中華民族就有能力自己建造鐵路!

        新易鐵路作為大清皇室的祭陵專線,只有慈禧用過這么一次。到了1909年春“德宗景皇帝梓宮暫安梁各莊”,即光緒死后安葬到西陵時,新易鐵路又起過一次作用。兩年后清王朝被徹底推翻,主事者拉走了這條鐵路線的全部機車車輛,從此該線不再行車。到了1931年12月又勉強通車,但每日只往返一次。抗日戰(zhàn)爭期間占領華北的日本軍隊將該線梁各莊至易縣9.3公里的鐵軌拆除,并把剩下未拆的高碑店至易縣的線路改為窄軌,于1938年2月1日起開始營運,作為掠奪沿線工農(nóng)業(yè)產(chǎn)品和礦建材料運輸線。由于共產(chǎn)黨領導的地方抗日武裝不斷對其進行襲擊破壞,不久日寇被迫停止了運輸,1943年日軍將新易鐵路全部拆毀,軌料被用于鋪設古北口至北京雙橋的鐵路。

        1958年在“大躍進”熱潮中,當?shù)卣畬π乱阻F路的路基進行修補,鋪通了高碑店至淶水南關的15公里線路,1961年和1964年,又先后將線路延伸到壘子和易縣,不過重鋪的鐵路是窄軌,變成了“小鐵路”,直到1990年整條線路進行改造才恢復成與原來的新易鐵路一樣的準軌鐵路。1993年起這條鐵路劃歸河北省地方鐵路局管轄,現(xiàn)有蒸汽機車2臺,員工800多人,但是它不再叫“新易鐵路”而更名為“高易鐵路”了。

        (本文作者為《中國鐵道報》原總編輯,撰有《清末民初鐵路史話》,主編《中國蒸汽機車》世紀集影等)

        Empress Dowager's Train Ride to the Mausoleum

        By Yan Jiesheng

        After the Eight-Power Allied Forces withdrew from Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908) returned in 1901 to the capital of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). In order to celebrate her return and express gratitude to the royal ancestors, she decided to pay a visit to the Eastern and Western Mausoleums.

        In April 1902 the dowager visited the Eastern Mausoleum where five emperors, including her husband and her son, had been buried. Moreover, her own mausoleum there had been under construction for eight years, she wanted to take a look.

        The visit to the Western Mausoleum constituted a problem. The two-way journey from the Forbidden Palace to the Western Mausoleum was 250 kilometers. Any ordinary means of transportation available at that time was out of the question. Then 67-years-old queen mother conceived an idea of traveling to the mausoleum by train. The plan was viable. There existed a railroad from the capital to the Hankou in central China. It was easy to build a spur track to reach the Western Mausoleum. So the Empress Dowager issued a decree to have a railway built for her visit to the Western Mausoleum by train.

        She had traveled once by train before. On her way back from Xi誥n to Beijing, she took train at Baoding. Though it was a short journey, she enjoyed the luxury of a train especially furnished for the royal family. The royal court now approved a 600,000-silver-dollar budget to have a 42.5-kilometer railroad built within 6 months for her visit to the mausoleum.

        The government wanted to employ a British engineer to head the project, but gave up the plan as the French ambassador protested vehemently and recommended a French engineer for the job. The government compromised and engaged Zhan Tianyou, a Chinese engineer, to build the road. The 41-year-old was a graduate of Yale University in 1881 and had cut a brilliant figure in a few Chinese railway projects. Though time was pressing and the weather was unfavorable for the project and materials were hard to come by, the railroad was completed in February 1903, about 2 months ahead of schedule.

        While the railroad was under construction, Sheng Xuanhuai, a minister in charge of the national railway, was busy decorating the train and making arrangements for the trip. He gave top priority to selecting a good engine driver for the special train. The 27-year-old Zhang Mei was recommended and selected. Zhang Mei was a legendary figure in the railway field. He began to work in the locomotive depot at age 13, as a child laborer. His job was to clean locomotives. Industrious and studious, he was soon promoted to be a stoker. After a while, he entered a training course. At 18 he qualified himself for an engine driver.

        Sheng Xuanhuai learned that Zhang was the best engineer, but he needed to make sure. As it was the first time he was appointed to such an important job, he would do all he could to make everything ok. What was more, the railway business was very profitable and the juicy job was coveted by many other people. He had to be careful. He interviewed Zhang Mei and told him seriously, “I am in charge of this 3-million-silver-dollar court business. Your passenger will be Her Majesty Grand Buddha. You will take full responsibility not only of your life and the lives of your family, but also of my family and my career.”

        History does not record how Zhang Mei replied. But after the interview, it was decided that Zhang would be the engine driver for the special train the Empress Dowager and the emperor would take.

        On April 5, 1903, the dowager and the emperor traveled by train to the mausoleum. The train was thoroughly decorated like the royal palace and all the service people on the train were dressed in the court uniforms. The one way trip took about 2 hours. It was extremely smooth. The dowager was hugely satisfied with the ride. After the trip, Zhan Tianyou who had been in charge of the railroad building project was awarded all the ornaments in the dowager's car. He retained just a small clock and distributed all the rest to his colleagues. Zhan was also promoted. Zhang Mei was awarded an official title with an official robe and a blue-top cap, the only engine driver in the country such honored. Sheng Xuanhuai was also highly commended for his immaculate trip services.

        After this grand occasion, the exclusive railroad fell into disuse for a long time. In the spring of 1909, the emperor died. The railroad was used for the second time when the emperor was buried at the Western Mausoleum. After the Qing Dynasty collapsed in 1911, the locomotives and trains were pulled out of the royal service. During the war years in the following decades, the sections of the railroad were demolished several times. In 1943, the Japanese invaders dismantled it completely and used the materials for another railroad. After New China came into being, 15 kilometers of the railroad were restored in 1958. After two projects in 1960 and 1964 respectively, the railroad was extended. In 1990, the railroad was modernized. Now the local railroad in Hebei Province is operated by a team of more than 800 people with two locomotives in service.

        (Translated by David)

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