范雅琳
在煙臺,每年的十一前后,都是最舒適的時候。這時,天空蔚藍蔚藍的,空氣特別的清新,不冷不熱,不干不潮,舒爽得不得了。早上是晴空萬里,海天一色,海浪不慍不怒,不緊不慢地翻滾著一排排浪花,一艘艘輪船緩緩地駛進港灣,寧靜而美麗。傍晚時分天空又披上了五彩的霞帔,美得讓人心醉。
天剛蒙蒙亮,海鮮市場就人頭攢動,熙熙攘攘了。各種海鮮不安分地在臺子上活蹦亂跳。鲅魚、偏口,黃花、白敏子;梭蟹、蟹甲紅、紅蝦、對蝦、爬蝦、小白蝦;海參、鮑魚、蛸、天鵝蛋、乳山蛤和海蠣子,還有只有賣魚的人和本地人才能叫上名來的魚蝦蛤。煙臺人靠海吃海,那可是叫真正的會吃。
那頂蓋肥的螃蟹、肚皮下三條杠一肚籽的爬蝦蒸熟后紅紅的殼一揭開,蟹黃蝦籽就呈現(xiàn)在眼前,那一眼的鮮啊,口水不流才怪。蘸著姜汁醋,那個美味,換做神仙都不作。留著長須短須的蝦,渾身透亮的小蛸,泛著金光的鮑魚清水里煮著吃,原味或蒜泥姜汁蘸著,怎么吃都鮮美無比。海鮮,貴在個“鮮”字上。只要新鮮,咋做都好吃。
新鮮的鲅魚,剝掉魚皮片下魚肉,剁碎或用攪拌機打成碎泥,加進放涼的蔥姜水,放點兒肥肉泥,放一小把切碎的韭菜,再料酒和胡椒粉這么一灑,攪拌均勻,包鲅魚餃子或做魚丸湯,那可就讓你鮮得找不到北了。
魚湯面、芋頭炒蛤、茄子五花肉蒸蝦醬,還有魚鍋片片,都會讓你垂涎三尺,愛不釋口。
煙臺依山傍海,土地肥沃。深秋從沃土里拔起的一串串花生、地瓜和芋頭,帶著泥土的芬芳,擁擠在暖陽的場院里、房頂上“困著”,白的紅的黃的,好看極了。扒開一顆坑洼不平沾著泥土的花生殼,“白房子、紅帳子,里面住著白胖子”的謎語一下子冒出,似回到了兒時。粉紅色白白胖胖的果仁,靜靜地躺在干凈潔白的殼里,水靈靈的模樣,散發(fā)著誘人的清香。忍不住臟手在褲子上使勁一抹,小心翼翼地用手指捏出一顆放進嘴里,立刻像被扔進了攪拌機,紅白相間的汁水四溢,頓時滿口奇香。
地瓜芋頭“困困”才會好吃。蒸著、烤著、拔絲,怎么吃都香甜無比。芋頭刮皮后切成雪白的薄片,用蔥花爆鍋,翻炒片刻,放進水,大火燒,開鍋后放少許掛面,面熟了,芋頭也爛了。灑上香菜末,再滴上幾滴香油,哇!清爽滑嫩,香氣撲鼻,形意養(yǎng)皆上乘。
黃澄澄的玉米嘟嘟嚕嚕地掛在農(nóng)家的院子里。院墻一角的葡萄架上,紫瑩瑩綠瑩瑩的葡萄飽滿地掛著露珠,閃著誘人的光澤。旁邊柵欄里幾畦綠油油的韭菜和菠菜,透著別樣的生機,讓人喜不自禁。幾只小貓一會兒屋檐下,一會兒柵欄邊,輕盈地踱著,悠閑地享受著秋日午后的暖陽。那只拴著的大狗也乖乖地趴在地上,睜著圓咕嚕的大眼睛,靜靜地看著院子里的一切,這短暫秋日里的美好時光。
“煙臺蘋果萊陽梨”,秋天里怎能少了這哼哈二將。黃綠色粗糙而有褐色銹斑的外皮,頭粗尾細,萼部凹入,丑丑的模樣,但去皮后擎著粗硬的果梗,宛如一支乳白色的雪糕,肉質(zhì)細嫩,汁水豐富,甘甜如飴,清脆香甜,風味獨特,這就是梨中的上品,萊陽梨也。別看它丑,卻是多少人口中的最愛。
“山城”棲霞的十月,是被紅彤彤的蘋果覆蓋著的,果香彌漫在山城的每個角落。山谷里層層疊疊的紅果掛滿枝頭,粉嫩的紅富士蘋果,嬌滴滴,羞答答,清脆酸甜,滿身芳香,享譽全球。
南高北低,加上濕潤的海洋氣候的影響,煙臺的河流資源非常豐富。秋天里白洋河,夾河、五龍河、魚鳥河更是美不勝收,秋意濃濃。魚鳥河濕地的滿池荷花還在倔強地綻放,深處的蘆葦爭相高舉著一支支驕傲的蒲棒,在秋陽里搖曳多姿。岸邊高大的杉樹葉開始染紅,彰顯著生命的色彩。
馬路邊的銀杏樹在藍天的襯托下,發(fā)出金箔般的窸窣聲,飽含著生命的氣息,好像永遠不會凋零。天空的云朵凝重飄逸又隨意地變幻著,大朵大朵地揮灑著,恣意著不羈的美麗。
這就是煙臺的秋天,不驚不擾,似瓊樓玉閣、美麗仙境。
The most comfortable time in Yantai is around the National Day Holiday in October every year. With blue sky and fresh air, it is particularly comfortable, neither hot nor cold, neither dry nor damp. In the morning, the waves roll leisurely under the bright sky and ships sail into the harbor slowly one after another. Everything seems to be peaceful and beautiful. In the evening, with colorful sunset glow in the sky, it takes on another kind of beauty that will intoxicate people.
Just as the dawn falls, the seafood market becomes crowded and boisterous. Crawling or jumping restlessly on platforms are great varieties of seafood, including fishes such as Spanish mackerel, flatfish, yellow croaker, and white Chinese croaker; crabs and shrimps such as swimming crab, Japanese stone crab, red shrimp, prawn, mantis shrimp, small white shrimp; and clams such as sea cucumbers, abalone, octopus, “swan egg” clam, Rushan clam and oyster, as well as other fishes, shrimps, and clams whose names are known only by fish sellers and the locals. With rich sea resources, people in Yantai are really good at making use of the sea in terms of eating.