郭曉娟
一方山水一方茶,好山好水理所當然地孕育出一方好茶。
位于北緯35度、黃海之濱的日照,屬暖溫帶濕潤季風氣候,擁有充足的光照、充沛的雨量以及呈微酸性的山地丘陵土壤。優(yōu)越的地理位置和優(yōu)良的氣候條件,賦予日照綠茶“葉片厚、滋味濃、香氣高、耐沖泡”的獨特品質(zhì),日照綠茶因此被譽為“江北第一茶”。
茶者,南方之嘉木。其實,日照綠茶是“南茶北引”的碩果之一。20世紀50年代后期,山東省選擇在自然條件較好的青島、日照等地零星試種茶葉,讓生于南方的“嘉木”扎根齊魯大地。經(jīng)過多年的發(fā)展,日照已成為山東省茶葉主產(chǎn)區(qū)。2006年3月23日,原國家質(zhì)檢總局批準對“日照綠茶”實施地理標志產(chǎn)品保護。
作為“南茶北引”最成功的地區(qū),日照嵐山區(qū)的茶產(chǎn)業(yè)實現(xiàn)了從無到有、從有到多、從多到優(yōu)、從優(yōu)到特的精彩變遷。
北方真正意義上的春天,從一杯谷雨茶開始。4月20日,在嵐山區(qū)圣谷山大梁山茶園內(nèi),“谷雨試新茶,尋鮮圣谷山”日照自媒體達人2023春茶采風活動中,十余位抖音達人、攝影大咖及嵐山區(qū)融媒體中心記者,一同在此領(lǐng)略茶園自然風光。而采茶姑娘們則身著茶服、手挽茶籃,行走在山間茶壟,與自然美景融為一體。
圣谷山大梁山茶園位于人跡罕至的大山深處,北緯35度的陽光、海風,在這里匯成一曲春的交響。
“高山深處有佳茗。山不在高,有仙則名;茶不在多,唯品為高?!笔ス壬讲鑸鲇邢薰径麻L高建華認為,好茶就應該長在深山里,空氣清新、水源純凈、遠離都市和人群,這樣的茶就和環(huán)境一樣,有著清凈悠遠、從容淡定的意味。
好茶,從種植開始。為了讓圣谷山的每一片茶葉都生長在無公害的環(huán)境中,高建華幾乎走遍了嵐山區(qū)的每一塊山頭,將茶園選址在人跡罕至的深山中。企業(yè)擁有的五片茶園全部符合“遠離人群、地勢海拔高、從未被開墾”的嚴苛要求,不僅從未被開墾和耕種,保持著原始的生態(tài)環(huán)境,就連澆灌茶園的水也是山上的泉水以及雨雪天的存水。
為了保證茶葉的有機天然,圣谷山的土壤全部選用芝麻餅等有機肥,堅決不使用任何殺蟲劑、除草劑,營造地表植被自然生長的環(huán)境。
除了種茶有講究,圣谷山有機茶在制茶上也頗有門道。過去憑經(jīng)驗做茶的方式容易使茶味不穩(wěn)定,于是高建華在積累豐富制茶經(jīng)驗的基礎(chǔ)上引進現(xiàn)代化設備和先進技術(shù),將一切相關(guān)因素數(shù)字化、數(shù)據(jù)化,實現(xiàn)標準化生產(chǎn),以達到高水平、高品質(zhì)的恒定狀態(tài)。
“為了讓消費者更安心,圣谷山的每一片茶葉從生長、采集到炒制等全過程,都實現(xiàn)了可控性和可追溯性?!备呓ㄈA介紹道。原生態(tài)的生長環(huán)境加之現(xiàn)代化科技的賦能及高標準、嚴要求的每一個具體環(huán)節(jié),使得茶香更濃郁、口感更甘醇,不僅獲得愛茶者一致好評,也經(jīng)得起市場和消費者的檢驗。2022年10月,圣谷山茶場收到了國際有機認證的證書,至此,圣谷山茶場的認證證書全部收到,2022年五大認證(歐盟有機認證、美國雨林聯(lián)盟認證、中國有機認證、美國有機認證、日本有機認證)復審全部通過。
一葉可觀嵐。如今,嵐山區(qū)茶園總面積達16.2萬畝,有涉茶企業(yè)302家,茶葉專業(yè)合作社392家。而日照茶園總面積則達到29.9萬畝,年產(chǎn)干毛茶1.9萬噸,總產(chǎn)值37億元,面積、產(chǎn)量、產(chǎn)值均居全省首位。2021年,經(jīng)官方評估,“日照綠茶”品牌價值達到57.16億元,在全國158個地理標志產(chǎn)品中排名第19位;2022年,“日照綠茶”入選山東省首批“好品山東”品牌。
“幾度朔風草舍寒,為有今天紛爭妍。日照綠茶滿庭芳,黃海之濱彌茶香。一壺斟就春溢身,忘卻龍井碧螺春。吾輩只為茶而來,有道茶人似狂人。”中國農(nóng)業(yè)科學院茶葉研究所原研究員、日照“南茶北引”指導專家虞富蓮專門為日照綠茶賦詩一首,這既是對日照綠茶的贊美與肯定,也為日照綠茶的發(fā)展標記了完美注腳。
編輯/魏偉
Unique Rizhao Green Tea
Rizhao enjoys a warm temperate humid monsoon climate, ample sunlight, abundant rainfall, as well as a slightly acidic hilly soil. With a favorable geographical location and excellent climatic conditions, Rizhao green tea has the unique characteristics of “thick leaves, strong taste, lasting fragrance, and repeated infusions”, and thus is known as the“First Tea to the North of the Yangtze River”.
In the late 1950s, Shandong chose to grow tea in Qingdao, Rizhao and other places with fine natural conditions on a trial basis so as to enable the southern “tea trees” to take root in Shandong. After many years of development, Rizhao has become the main tea producing area in Shandong. On March 23, 2006, the former General Administration of Quality Supervision approved the implementation of geographical indication protection for “Rizhao Green Tea”.
Shenggushans Daliang Mountain Tea Plantation is located in the depth of an unfrequented mountain. The companys five tea plantations all meet the strict requirements of“being far away from the crowd, at high altitude, and uncultivated”. Without being previously reclaimed or cultivated before, these plantations maintain the original ecological environment. Moreover, even the water for irrigation is mountain spring water or water stored on rainy and snowy days.
To further reassure consumers, every leaf of Shenggushan has achieved all-process controllability and traceability from growth and picking to stir-frying. It has not only gained unanimous praise from tea lovers, but also passed the test by the market and consumers.
In 2021, according to an official assessment, “Rizhao Green Tea” realized a brand value of RMB 5.716 billion, ranking 19th among 158 geographical indication products nationwide; in 2022, “Rizhao Green Tea” was selected into Shandongs first batch of “Remarkable Shandong” brands.