孫昌建

在高速杭州淳安出口附近看到淡竹二字，就會(huì)想起三十多年前的那個(gè)毛竹園。很多人對(duì)于淳安縣千島湖的認(rèn)知是由一個(gè)個(gè)地名和鄉(xiāng)名構(gòu)成的，比如排嶺、汾口、威坪、臨岐、文昌、姜家等。據(jù)說(shuō)早年的淳安有60多個(gè)鄉(xiāng)，正如那個(gè)碧波萬(wàn)頃的水庫(kù)是由無(wú)數(shù)滴水所匯成，而這一滴或那一滴又是自帶記憶的。

當(dāng)中巴車一進(jìn)入富文地域，就能看見(jiàn)盤(pán)山公路上一個(gè)個(gè)跑步的背影，他們都是水上運(yùn)動(dòng)的選手，也許他們中就有參加本屆杭州亞運(yùn)會(huì)的，看他們渾身濕透、努力奔跑的樣子，覺(jué)得就是這樣的日復(fù)一日、年復(fù)一年，每一步、每一槳地越過(guò)山丘和水波，才有可能接近心中的夢(mèng)想?？粗麄兊谋秤?，特別想下車跟他們聊幾句，因?yàn)樗麄円彩沁@座山、這片水的一個(gè)組成部分。不過(guò)我還是控制住了某一種情緒，因?yàn)榇藭r(shí)我看到了遠(yuǎn)處的野山櫻，在懸崖邊上，粉色的野山櫻，不多，有那么一兩叢、兩三叢，開(kāi)得孤獨(dú)而傲然，這也是這個(gè)季節(jié)去山鄉(xiāng)必會(huì)遇見(jiàn)的一景。

邂逅野山櫻只是在富文的第一序章。本次去富文，主要還是想去看一眼那所網(wǎng)紅學(xué)校，因?yàn)槲乙恢睂?duì)電影外景地頗有興趣，也曾想寫(xiě)個(gè)“電影里的杭州”系列，以后如果真的寫(xiě)成了，富文應(yīng)該是其中的一篇。熱門(mén)電影《我和我的家鄉(xiāng)》是由四個(gè)片段組成的，我仿而學(xué)之，亦以片斷記之。

當(dāng)司機(jī)說(shuō)鄉(xiāng)政府到了，我下了車，卻還是沒(méi)有看到鄉(xiāng)政府，準(zhǔn)確地說(shuō)我沒(méi)有看到富文鄉(xiāng)政府的房子，后來(lái)看到牌子，才明白這是一座由供銷社改造而來(lái)的鄉(xiāng)政府辦公樓，它被周邊的民居包圍著，既成不了地標(biāo)，在地理優(yōu)勢(shì)上也無(wú)可說(shuō)之處。要知道這是在杭州，在著名的千島湖，竟然還有這樣一座鄉(xiāng)政府的辦公樓，它恰好跟網(wǎng)紅小學(xué)形成一種鮮明對(duì)比。會(huì)議室簡(jiǎn)陋之至，路過(guò)辦公室時(shí)人也不敢走進(jìn)去，因?yàn)橐蛔哌M(jìn)去，可能就會(huì)轉(zhuǎn)不過(guò)身。

入夜后終于可以去看富文中心小學(xué)了，因?yàn)殡娪?，也不僅僅因?yàn)殡娪?。遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)就看到了燈光，一種溫暖的感覺(jué)緊緊地把人包圍，就像有一雙手臂摟住了我，也摟住了整個(gè)鄉(xiāng)村的夜晚。

談不上震撼，但觸動(dòng)還是頗為強(qiáng)烈的，可以稱得上是“最美小學(xué)”。我記得我讀小學(xué)一年級(jí)的時(shí)候，我們班的教室就是一間茅草屋，另一個(gè)平行班卻已經(jīng)是磚瓦房了，這么多年過(guò)去了，我對(duì)此還是有點(diǎn)耿耿于懷的。如果一個(gè)地方，一座城市，一個(gè)國(guó)家，最好的房子是學(xué)校，是圖書(shū)館，是運(yùn)動(dòng)場(chǎng)，那我想那表示社會(huì)有了一種倡導(dǎo)和榜樣。

走廊上有小朋友在墻上畫(huà)的涂鴉作品，其中有一幅畫(huà)的是北京冬奧會(huì)，畫(huà)了領(lǐng)獎(jiǎng)臺(tái)，這讓人又一次想起山路上跑步的運(yùn)動(dòng)員。其實(shí)也很想問(wèn)問(wèn)小朋友，他們是怎么看他們的家鄉(xiāng)、看他們的學(xué)校的。后來(lái)在離開(kāi)這片燈光去民宿的路上，我看到了夜空中的星星，一眨一眨地亮晶晶。這是喝了富文土燒之后的反應(yīng)？現(xiàn)在星星似乎成了美麗鄉(xiāng)村的標(biāo)配，但是光有星星，光有螢火蟲(chóng)，光有土燒，顯然是不夠的，而現(xiàn)在我們有了一所網(wǎng)紅學(xué)校，不，網(wǎng)紅只是標(biāo)簽，對(duì)于鄉(xiāng)村教育和生態(tài)，人們可以千言萬(wàn)語(yǔ)各抒己見(jiàn)，但我相信身處其中所體會(huì)到的愉悅感是真切的，只要靜下心來(lái)享受就好：不要用燈光去打擾野山櫻的開(kāi)放，不要用音樂(lè)去打擾溪水的流淌。

第二天早上醒來(lái)，才仔細(xì)打量了一番我所住的房子，這里的民宿有舊房改造的，也有重新建造的，而無(wú)論是哪一種，都體現(xiàn)了設(shè)計(jì)師的理念，即房子也是山水的一個(gè)部分。我尤其喜歡園子里的一株紅梅，它在水邊，水上浮著一些落英，這特別容易讓人望梅止渴——此渴非彼渴，那是對(duì)美的渴。

還是不能忘記那最美學(xué)校，該校還有不少慕名前來(lái)就讀的學(xué)生，有一位同事的小孩也在那所學(xué)校就讀。

又注意到了一景，那是第二天在漠川村村委會(huì)門(mén)口，有一株并不算高大的桂花樹(shù)，被圍欄保護(hù)了起來(lái)，且立有一塊小木牌，牌上寫(xiě)著這樣的說(shuō)明文字：“此地為漠川小學(xué)，上世紀(jì)70年代，本村小學(xué)老師唐三女帶領(lǐng)學(xué)生從后山移植了一棵桂花樹(shù)種植在此地。時(shí)光荏苒，當(dāng)年的小學(xué)已不復(fù)存在，而桂花樹(shù)依舊亭亭玉立，枝繁葉茂，見(jiàn)證著一代又一代漠川人的成長(zhǎng)。”這段文字寫(xiě)得真好，樸實(shí)無(wú)華又飽含深情。而這棵桂花樹(shù)的對(duì)面正是頗有氣派的方氏宗祠，桂花樹(shù)的側(cè)面是村衛(wèi)生室，邊上有健康宣傳欄。

今天富文的子弟無(wú)疑是有福氣的，全中國(guó)、全世界都通過(guò)這所網(wǎng)紅小學(xué)知道了富文，“知道”就是生產(chǎn)力，從這一點(diǎn)上說(shuō)，富文的今生要好于前世。

望“文”生義是碼字工的一種基本功。富而有文，文而有富，這是我望“文”生義后的兩種愿景。淳安以前是欠發(fā)達(dá)縣，尤其是在杭州地區(qū)，尤其是跟蕭山和余杭相比;而現(xiàn)在淳安是國(guó)家重點(diǎn)生態(tài)功能區(qū)，一湖秀水，稟賦優(yōu)越，網(wǎng)紅或最美的聲譽(yù)把你吸引過(guò)來(lái)，但能不能留住客人看星星喝土燒聽(tīng)漠川潺潺，這還得靠?jī)?nèi)功。

如今，民宿成了美麗鄉(xiāng)村的標(biāo)配，而如果從未來(lái)鄉(xiāng)村的模式來(lái)看，雖然富文已經(jīng)走在了路上，但仍然任重道遠(yuǎn)。民宿要講故事，而富文的故事俯拾皆是。我住在一家叫美客愛(ài)途的民宿，早餐則安排在兩三百米外的一家青麓餐廳，它的隔壁就是一家“青麓小姑土貨直播間”，桌上一臺(tái)電腦，兩三只手機(jī)架，幾根網(wǎng)線?！靶」谩笨瓷先ズ軜闼兀@幾年她一邊做直播，一邊種菜養(yǎng)雞，還兼做廚娘，她燒出來(lái)的土菜，口味明顯要和淡一些。而她帶土貨的直播更是收入可觀，而且經(jīng)營(yíng)模式頗有新意。如果問(wèn)你，688元買(mǎi)一只土雞你要不要？你可能會(huì)嫌貴，但如果這只土雞給你一月生20個(gè)土雞蛋，一年生240個(gè)土雞蛋且包郵到家，一年之后這只土雞歸你，你是不是有點(diǎn)心動(dòng)了？

同時(shí)這家民宿還有一間新安書(shū)屋，是縣圖書(shū)館的鄉(xiāng)村書(shū)屋之一，這里還舉辦藝術(shù)展，除了富文的非遺手藝麥秸扇之外，還有現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)展，參展的畫(huà)家都是國(guó)美、央美畢業(yè)的研究生。

是啊，從雪坑源到淳雪居，從青坪源到青麓，這不只是名稱的改變，更是一種對(duì)于山水的尊重、對(duì)于美好生活的分享。據(jù)我所知，早先幾十年，從淳安出去的學(xué)子在杭州成為各界精英的比比皆是，而這幾年回千島湖創(chuàng)業(yè)的又多了起來(lái)，這一現(xiàn)象是不是也可以從富和文的框架中去解釋呢？而我們來(lái)到富文，來(lái)到千島湖，不正是想完成蘇東坡們沒(méi)有完成的詩(shī)篇嗎？這所富文中心小學(xué)，也曾獲得過(guò)一個(gè)榮譽(yù)叫“浙江省詩(shī)教先進(jìn)單位”，這是比網(wǎng)紅標(biāo)簽更為重要的。

在浙江，富文只有一個(gè)，卻也不止一個(gè)，富文只是浙江無(wú)數(shù)個(gè)美麗鄉(xiāng)村的縮影。從生態(tài)到教育再到民宿，來(lái)浙江，你會(huì)看到鄉(xiāng)村的另一種可能。

My knowledge of the Thousand Island Lake in Chun’an county comprises of different names of places. It is said that in the early years， there were 60 odds townships there in Chun’an. Just like the crystal-clear reservoir right in front of me eyes is converged by countless drops of water， my memory about this place is also formed by unforgettable moments.

The moment the bus carried me inside the area of Fuwen， I was attracted by the runners covering the winding mountain roads， who must be water sports athletes. Watching them going full speed and all sweaty， I assumed that is how they are running towards their dreams step by step. Just then， I saw at distance some clusters of wild pink cherries by the cliff， a local seasonal view one will surely bump into during this time of year.

But that was only a prelude to my trip today， the purpose of which was to visit a school well-known as a film set. I always long for visiting film sets and have a plan of writing an article series of “Hangzhou in the film”， which， if can be ever realized， should include one about Fuwen.

I finally got a chance to see the primary school when the night fell. The lamp light caught my eyesight from afar， and I felt I was embraced tightly and warmly by a pair of arms. Seeing the primary school as it was， I would not say I was shocked but impressed really， for there was no such schools in Hangzhou. I remembered the classroom of my primary school was but a thatched hut， and realized， after so many passing years， I was still feeling sorry for my younger self. If the best local building is a school， a library， or a sport field， I guess that would set an example to the public.

At the hallway of the school I saw some doodles on the wall drew by the school children. One of them was about the Beijing Winter Olympics， the podium and stuff， and it reminded me of the runners I saw earlier. Leaving the school when I was on the way heading to my B&B for the night， I saw some twinkling stars high above. The next morning， I checked out carefully the building I was staying in， which demonstrated the designer’s philosophy that the house is also part of the natural landscape. I was in particular fond of a red plume in the garden， next to a small pool with some fallen petals floating atop.

However， if we need to better understand the Fuwen village， we may as well take a step back to look at the big picture. As is well-known to all， demolishing and merging village primary schools is a common practice these days. Therefore， among such a vast area — the administrative area of Fuwen is 151 square kilometers， there is only one local primary school. That set me wondering： is there a way to treat the local children better？

Underdeveloped as it was， Chun’an county is now a key ecological area with clear waters. But from the view of the future village， that is far from enough. For starters， B&B， a faithful companions of villages these days， are expected to tell good stories. Take the B&B I stayed for example. The breakfast was arranged for me at a restaurant two to three hundred meters away， next to a studio managed by a young lady. In the studio there is a table with a laptop and some phone holders on it. The lady livestreams to sell goods online for a living; meanwhile， she grows vegetables， raises chicken and does some cooking too. Yet it is online selling using especially smart strategies that has brought her the bulk of her income.

I also noticed the B&B owned a bookshop as well. This is one of the village bookshops administered by the county library， where art exhibits are held occasionally. I could sense in this place a kind of respect for the natural landscape and the intention of sharing a good life.