宋浩

“茫茫東海披山洋，素稱天然古漁場。海風(fēng)輕吻碧波漾，金條夜舞是故鄉(xiāng)?！边@是玉環(huán)鼓詞《漁民小調(diào)》里的唱詞。

玉環(huán)市位于浙江省東南沿海，是臺(tái)州市下轄縣級市，西南緊鄰溫州。玉環(huán)方言有三種，臺(tái)州話、溫州話、閩南話。“人生海?！币馑际侨松绱蠛V闊，又變幻不定、起落浮沉，總要往前看、繼續(xù)闖。

玉環(huán)面向茫茫東海，臺(tái)灣暖流、浙江沿岸流、大陸徑流在這里交匯，得天獨(dú)厚的自然條件使這片海域成為魚蝦蟹貝等水生物的天堂。海邊的人們以漁業(yè)為生，創(chuàng)造了獨(dú)特的人文歷史。如今，海上人家的生活也在發(fā)生著變化。

去年10月18日到19日，2021玉環(huán)闖海節(jié)舉行，眾多媒體和B站UP主體驗(yàn)了玉環(huán)市雞山鄉(xiāng)的風(fēng)俗美食、現(xiàn)代漁業(yè)、新興民宿，感受著玉環(huán)人共建共富的智慧和創(chuàng)舉。

“人生海海，要闖精彩?！币淮J海人的歷史記憶和拼搏精神，就蘊(yùn)含在這8個(gè)字中;玉環(huán)人建設(shè)共同富裕美好社會(huì)的不懈努力，也在這8個(gè)字中。

海上放牧，立志做“國魚”

“沖風(fēng)冒雨趁來潮，獵食漁船并力搖?！痹缫淮J海人繼承著自古以來的捕魚方式，修船織網(wǎng)，迎潮出海。風(fēng)吹浪打、日曬雨淋中，他們與大海搏擊，用汗水創(chuàng)造著自己的生活。

早些年的船小，條件差，出海有生命危險(xiǎn)，現(xiàn)在老一代闖海人越來越少了。“60后”莊一萍說，她上一代很多長輩是這樣的闖海人。有一個(gè)叔叔在一次出海后就沒再回來，家中三個(gè)兒子，最小的還嗷嗷待哺。所以今天的玉環(huán)，漁民畫、媽祖廟、楊八將等風(fēng)俗，都體現(xiàn)傳統(tǒng)闖海人祈求親人平安的愿望。

今天，鐵皮船代替了木板船，漁民畫也從漁業(yè)生產(chǎn)的一部分變成獨(dú)立的藝術(shù)創(chuàng)作。莊一萍小時(shí)候生長在海邊，經(jīng)常在海邊看水手修船、在船上畫漁民畫。她后來走上了漁民畫藝術(shù)創(chuàng)作道路，現(xiàn)在是中國民間藝術(shù)文藝家協(xié)會(huì)會(huì)員，作品多次獲獎(jiǎng)，受邀在各種博覽會(huì)上展覽。

漁業(yè)的變遷，更多體現(xiàn)在生產(chǎn)方式上。今天的新一代闖海人以海為田，耕海牧漁，傳統(tǒng)漁業(yè)開始轉(zhuǎn)型升級。

雞山鄉(xiāng)的中鹿島位于雞山島東南15公里，由3個(gè)環(huán)形小島形成天然海灣，這里坐擁洋流交匯處，海水溶氧量、天然餌料、溫度、鹽度都極好，千百年來就是黃魚生長的天堂。如今，“80后”江凌云在這里開辟了一片海上牧場，放養(yǎng)黃魚。

江凌云是玉環(huán)人，畢業(yè)于同濟(jì)大學(xué)法律系。小時(shí)候看雞山海域捕撈黃魚千帆出海、滿載而歸的盛景，讓他印象深刻。其中大黃魚品質(zhì)最好的，就是中鹿島這片海域。2008年，江凌云辭職，開始創(chuàng)業(yè)。

2015年開始，他動(dòng)了一個(gè)想法，包下中鹿島海域，利用獨(dú)有的自然優(yōu)勢放養(yǎng)大黃魚，讓魚兒自由生長。經(jīng)過兩年的準(zhǔn)備，玉環(huán)市中鹿島大黃魚海洋牧場漁業(yè)轉(zhuǎn)型示范基地建成了。

江凌云到舟山、寧波、溫州、寧德等地學(xué)習(xí)，考察后決定采用超大型圍網(wǎng)、樁網(wǎng)連接、底部防逃等技術(shù)來建設(shè)牧場，“我們擁有這片海域的經(jīng)營權(quán)后，沒有采用傳統(tǒng)養(yǎng)殖方法，而是斥巨資打造野生大黃魚生長環(huán)境，保證每立方米海域只投放1到2條黃魚，杜絕海水養(yǎng)殖過度開發(fā)”。

整個(gè)中鹿島海洋牧場，目前已完成一期工程，預(yù)計(jì)最終年產(chǎn)量可達(dá)2000萬尾以上。中鹿島堅(jiān)持以“野生傳承，科學(xué)牧放”為理念，走可持續(xù)發(fā)展之路，逐步引進(jìn)并應(yīng)用“數(shù)字農(nóng)業(yè)”相關(guān)技術(shù)，打造“智慧型海洋牧場”，突破了傳統(tǒng)網(wǎng)箱無法抵抗極端性天氣的難題，同時(shí)又保證了海洋水流的通透性，讓牧場完美融入海洋之中。

“我們的大黃魚不投喂人工飼料，以周邊海里的魚蝦為食，不會(huì)造成水體二次污染;而且自然繁殖的大黃魚幼苗也會(huì)通過這種‘透水’養(yǎng)殖方式游向外面的天然海域，這些幼苗比起人工增殖放流的實(shí)驗(yàn)室魚苗，更適應(yīng)海域自然環(huán)境，成活率也會(huì)更高?！?/p>

利用大自然饋贈(zèng)的天然牧場，江凌云開拓出一條海洋經(jīng)濟(jì)藍(lán)色發(fā)展之路。2019年，中鹿島大黃魚被農(nóng)業(yè)農(nóng)村部列為“全國名特優(yōu)新農(nóng)產(chǎn)品”。

江凌云未來的目標(biāo)是把“中鹿島”做成中國頂級大黃魚標(biāo)志品牌，打造成一條“國魚”：“就像俄羅斯帝王蟹、挪威三文魚、日本神戶牛肉那樣，提起中國的水產(chǎn)品牌，全世界就能想到中鹿島大黃魚！”

雞山島的老一代闖海人來基地參觀后感慨：“中鹿島這片海一直是野生黃魚生活的地方，以前，一網(wǎng)撈上來很多，咕咕地叫，聲音像小娃娃，送上岸去賣，就是市場上公認(rèn)最鮮最好吃的黃魚。”

“但從前捕魚是個(gè)‘靠天吃飯’的活，有時(shí)收入不錯(cuò)，但有時(shí)只能勉強(qiáng)溫飽，人常年在外，辛苦不說，風(fēng)險(xiǎn)很大。” 江凌云的新型漁業(yè)讓老一代漁民感嘆不已。

作為大學(xué)畢業(yè)的新一代闖海人，江凌云希望現(xiàn)代漁業(yè)模式能為家鄉(xiāng)漁業(yè)轉(zhuǎn)型升級和民生改善提供助力。2004年，中鹿島海洋牧場與雞山鄉(xiāng)政府成立戰(zhàn)略合作伙伴關(guān)系，將雞山鄉(xiāng)作為重點(diǎn)投資區(qū)域，為雞山島2000多戶本地漁民提供創(chuàng)業(yè)機(jī)遇，帶領(lǐng)大家共同致富。

去年6月，江凌云又與蘆蒲鎮(zhèn)政府簽署“浙東南漁業(yè)小鎮(zhèn)”項(xiàng)目協(xié)議，該項(xiàng)目也是浙江“民營經(jīng)濟(jì)助推鄉(xiāng)村振興，實(shí)現(xiàn)鄉(xiāng)村共同富?！钡脑圏c(diǎn)項(xiàng)目。

如今，雞山島上還有了“一網(wǎng)盡鮮”海鮮產(chǎn)品網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播間，更年輕的闖海人開始嘗試新潮的數(shù)字化方式，帶著家鄉(xiāng)的漁業(yè)闖入互聯(lián)網(wǎng)的大海中。

從“80后”江凌云到更年輕的這些“闖海人”，不論養(yǎng)黃魚還是賣魚干，都與他們的父輩不一樣。站上數(shù)字經(jīng)濟(jì)的快車，他們正帶著鄉(xiāng)親一起，實(shí)現(xiàn)全面小康，走向共同富裕。

家鄉(xiāng)的發(fā)展，始終是人的回歸

像江凌云一樣回家鄉(xiāng)創(chuàng)業(yè)的大學(xué)生還有很多，陳麒宇也是其中一個(gè)。1987年出生的陳麒宇，大學(xué)畢業(yè)后從事過多年醫(yī)療設(shè)備行業(yè)。疫情前，他辭職回到雞山鄉(xiāng)創(chuàng)業(yè)。

陳麒宇的父親現(xiàn)在仍然在海上，是老一代闖海人中的一員。陳爸爸從十三四歲時(shí)初中畢業(yè)就到海上勞作了。在陳麒宇的記憶中，小時(shí)候看到父親早上五六點(diǎn)去趕海，有時(shí)候一個(gè)月回家一次，有時(shí)候更久，“冬天很少見到他?！?/p>

現(xiàn)在技術(shù)進(jìn)步，船的條件越來越好，船的噸位變重，父親也已從水手變成船長。捕魚方式也不一樣了，現(xiàn)在可以用燈光誘捕，燈光撒下去，傻頭傻腦的魚兒就游過來了。陳麒宇說，父親見證了中國漁業(yè)近半個(gè)多世紀(jì)的發(fā)展。

陳麒宇辭職后，在麗江旅游時(shí)，認(rèn)識(shí)了一個(gè)做民宿的朋友，聊起來后他動(dòng)了心思：雞山島也可以搞民宿??！現(xiàn)在一線城市年輕人有“逃離城市計(jì)劃”，家鄉(xiāng)雞山有美食、有海景，可以開發(fā)起來。

陳麒宇先與幾個(gè)做民宿的朋友合伙，開了島上第一家民宿漫野奢嶼。之后他想尋找更多的可能，看中了島嶼最東邊的火車村的一塊空地。這片地方他小時(shí)候常來玩，地勢高，四面空闊，是看日出日落的絕佳地。

他與村里談。村里也有旅游開發(fā)的想法，規(guī)劃在這里建愛情主題公園。陳麒宇覺得這樣一個(gè)公園，不如由自己來開帳篷民宿。因?yàn)閹づ衩袼拊谡麄€(gè)臺(tái)州還屬于稀缺產(chǎn)品，而玉環(huán)的位置很妙，是臺(tái)州最南，距離溫州很近，更遠(yuǎn)甚至可以覆蓋江浙滬閩等地的市場。

對陳麒宇這個(gè)創(chuàng)業(yè)計(jì)劃，家人一開始有顧慮。陳媽媽覺得太小眾了：會(huì)有人跑來雞山島住帳篷？就算偶爾有一些客人，你十年工作的積蓄投進(jìn)去，多久能回本？

陳麒宇還是想試一下，他知道家鄉(xiāng)的好，也了解當(dāng)下的消費(fèi)潮流，“我是這里人，開發(fā)這個(gè)島，我有很多事情可以做。”

今年初，陳爸爸禁漁期在家，也來一起幫忙做木工。民宿不少工作，比如搭建帳篷和摩洛哥風(fēng)格的木架，都是陳爸爸幫陳麒宇一起完成的。雞山鄉(xiāng)政府對草坪的基礎(chǔ)建設(shè)例如基礎(chǔ)管道、電力等提供幫助，同時(shí)，村里和附近的鄉(xiāng)親也經(jīng)常來幫忙。

但那個(gè)時(shí)候?qū)﹃愾栌畹倪@個(gè)實(shí)驗(yàn)，不少人心里還是覺得有冒險(xiǎn)的成分。那也是陳麒宇和創(chuàng)業(yè)伙伴最辛苦的時(shí)候，大到帳篷房間的設(shè)計(jì)，小到一個(gè)杯子，都要花心力去選。“我才明白，任何一家成功的民宿，都很花心思的?！?/p>

2021年5月，陳麒宇的“知野之也”帳篷民宿試營業(yè)，合伙人在自己的小紅書上發(fā)布消息，純粹作為完工的一個(gè)記錄，還沒來得及鋪開宣傳。但已經(jīng)有網(wǎng)友來訂房了，從五一開始到現(xiàn)在，不斷有客人來住。

“前期主要是臺(tái)州客人多，超過一半。后來有一位溫州客人來住了，他回去后，溫州人一下子多起來，連續(xù)一個(gè)月來的基本是溫州客人?，F(xiàn)在跨海大橋通了，溫州過來只要一個(gè)小時(shí)。”

目前也有一些杭州、上海的企業(yè)來搞團(tuán)建，陳麒宇說，“不久的將來，玉環(huán)通高鐵后，杭州過來也非?？?，到時(shí)候杭州、上海和江蘇的客人將更多”。

客人多起來了，陳媽媽才認(rèn)同兒子當(dāng)時(shí)的堅(jiān)持?？粗?0個(gè)帳篷排滿了，她還提出建議：要不要增加帳篷？陳麒宇拒絕了，這片地方面積有限，增加帳篷密度會(huì)降低居住體驗(yàn)。

看著島上的孩子在老家開起了帳篷民宿，島上的老人們挺開心。夏天傍晚，老人們乘涼散步到這里，陳麒宇會(huì)給他們放越劇、放音樂。客人多的時(shí)候，鄉(xiāng)親們知道民宿有活動(dòng)，也不去打擾。

“當(dāng)我把這個(gè)民宿建好之后，很多朋友、同學(xué)紛紛來跟我說，這個(gè)民宿是你做的，真好！”陳麒宇會(huì)告訴他們，你們也可以回來發(fā)展的。

2021年10月18日晚上是“人生海海 · 星空歌會(huì)”，這場音樂節(jié)是“闖海節(jié)”當(dāng)天的高潮，就在“知野之也”的草坪上舉行。陳麒宇坐在靠海的一邊，感嘆說：“家鄉(xiāng)的發(fā)展，始終還是人的回歸，更多年輕的思想、年輕人的加入，讓她有一個(gè)新的面貌。”

現(xiàn)在，陳麒宇的妹妹和他招來的幾個(gè)朋友，幫他一起在這里打理。幾個(gè)年輕人經(jīng)營的民宿，吸引著年輕人來雞山打卡。陳麒宇覺得，現(xiàn)在島上的輕奢民宿也好、休閑漁船帶游客出海捕魚也好，這些能帶動(dòng)家鄉(xiāng)發(fā)展、鄉(xiāng)親共富的新事物，需要他們年輕人多做一些實(shí)踐。

人生海海，變化的是新產(chǎn)業(yè)、新思維，不變的是玉環(huán)闖海人的浪漫、樂觀和自強(qiáng)不息。

清風(fēng)吹來，這片富饒的海域正萌生新的希望;海邊浪花不斷，涌動(dòng)著闖海人奔向共同富裕的力量。

Facing the rolling East China Sea， Yuhuan， a seaside Zhejiang city where the warm currents alongside the coasts of Taiwan， Zhejiang and Chinese mainland converge， is a natural paradise for aquatic animals. The seaside households living off the fishing industry have created a living culture of their own， which is now undergoing some changes.

From October 18 to 19， 2021， the latest edition of the Yuhuan Sea-riding Festival was held， attracting numerous journalists and Bilibili vloggers.

“Bravely ride the waves of your life.” This is a brief summary of how generations of Yuhuan people have rode their way through the sea and worked hard towards a better society of common prosperity.

Yuhuan is located at the southeast of Zhejiang and is connected to Wenzhou city at its southwest corner， run by Taizhou as a county-level city. The local folks speak three local languages： Taizhou dialect， Wenzhou dialect and Hokkien dialect.

The local wave-riders of the early generations have made a living from fishing the way their predecessors did.

Grandpa Guan lives in Jishan Island and is over 60 years old. Now he makes money by driving visitors and his local folks between the east and west ends of this narrowly long island. Several years ago， he was still out there fishing in the sea. Grandpa Guan became a fisherman at the age of 16， and his weathered face is a written history of how the man toiled his way from a sailor to a boat owner in nearly half a century. As a fisherman in his youth， as he recalled， he would sail with ten to 20 fellows for at most six months， and they had to stay up for two to three days for fish harvests.

The Yuhuan fishermen are gallant and romantic in nature. Yuhuan was originally an island， and its current connection to the land in its north has been achieved through local people’s heroic sea reclamation and dam construction in 1978. After that， the city has embraced improvement in its transportation and economy. In 2017， the Yuhuan government demolished the dam and built a bridge on its old site. Thanks to these efforts， a natural inter-connective water network has been restored， so has the beautiful ecological environment.

In the early years， sea fishing in the small， shabby fishing boats was very risky， so the wave-riders are thinning in number， according to Zhuang Yiping who was over 60 years old. Therefore， local people would create fishermen-themed paintings to pray for the safety of their loved ones.

Today， iron boats have replaced the wooden ones， and the fishermen-themed paintings have become an independent art category. Growing up at seaside， Zhuang often watched sailors fixing their boats and painted fishermen-themed pictures on the boat as a child. She then became an artist specializing in fishermen-themed paintings and now an award-winning member of the China Society for the Study of Folk Literature and Art.

The production mode of the fishing industry has upgraded as well. Jiang Lingyun， a young man born in the 1980s， created an aquafarm on the Zhonglu Island， where the natural environment is perfect for the growth of large yellow croaker. Jiang is a Yuhuan local， graduated from the law department of Tongji University. In 2008， he quit his job as a procurator and attempted to start his own business.

In 2015， an idea occurred to him： why not purchase the entire sea area of Zhonglu Island， and rely on the advantageous natural conditions to breed large yellow croaker there？ After two years of preparation， the fishing industry demonstration base for large yellow croaker was constructed. Currently， the aquafarm’s phase 1 is completed， with a yearly yield of over 20 million tails. Aiming for a sustainable development， Jiang introduced digital-agricultural technologies into his aquafarm to make it as smart as possible. That way， he managed to pave way for a growing blue economy. In 2019， his large yellow croaker was listed as a top-level product by the Chinese Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs.

Meanwhile， there are many college students going back to their hometown to do businesses， and Chen Qiyu is one of them. Born in 1987， as a university graduate Chen was working in the medical equipment industry before finally quitting his job to return to Jishan township， the place where he was born and grew up.

He got his business idea when he was travelling in Lijiang city， Yunnan province， and during this trip he got acquainted and befriended with somebody in the B&B industry. Jishan Island was good enough for doing B&B， thought he， considering well-to-do city dwellers are always thinking about “running away from the city”， and his hometown with its nice food and views provides a perfect escape.

Chen opened up the first-ever B&B on the island with several friends of his， then he fixed his eyes on an opening at the east end of the island， hoping to explore more possibilities there. It is his childhood playground， high and vast， a best spot for enjoying sunset and sunrise.

He told the local government of the plan， and the latter agreed to the part of developing tourism yet preferred to establish a love-themed park instead. However， Chen was not sold on the love park idea， deciding to set up a tent B&B of his own. That was because tent B&B was practically new， and Yuhuan had this wonderful location to cover the tourism market of Jiangsu province， Zhejiang province， Shanghai or even Fujian province.

However， Chen’s mother seemed hesitant on this business plan at first， which， in her eyes， may end up with very limited customers. But Chen still wanted to give it a go. Chen’s father， who was home because of closed fishing seasons， helped him with a lot of carpentry and many villagers also came here to offer a helping hand.

They went through a most difficult period where everything from picking a suitable cup to designing tent rooms needed to be taken great care of. Finally， this tent B&B went on soft opening in May 2021. As soon as the news spread， costumers began to book rooms online and kept flooding in， mostly from the cities of Taizhou， Wenzhou and Hangzhou.

The tent B&B cheered local seniors up， who enjoy taking a walk here on the evening of summer days. On the night of October 18， 2021， watching a live concert being held on the lawn of the B&B， Chen said that the development of his home village always depends on its people， and more youngsters with their open mind should be introduced here for this village to turn on a new look.

Now， Chen’s sister and some of his friends are running this place with him， attracting a number of customers their age.