竺大文 黃慧仙 彭先國

當馬可 · 波羅抵達杭州時，這座當時還被稱作臨安的城市，讓見多識廣的他也驚嘆不已。在那本著名的游記中，他寫道：“這座城市的莊嚴和秀麗，堪為世界其他城市之冠。這里名勝古跡非常之多，使人們想象自己仿佛生活在天堂”。

有一種說法，當時臨安仍在南宋的治下，爾后，很快被元軍攻占。一場詭異的大火更將皇城化為灰燼。

經(jīng)歷了數(shù)個朝代的變遷，數(shù)百年的時光淘洗，這段遺落在錢塘江畔的繁華之夢，越發(fā)朦朧，似乎已經(jīng)了無痕跡。

但在記憶深處，南宋皇城作為南宋臨安城最重要的遺存，一直是江南人士最重要的“城市印記”。從鳳凰山麓的皇城、德壽宮，到紫陽山下的太廟、御街等，南宋皇城都留下了豐富的地下遺存。

對此，杜正賢比起常人有著更深的感悟。他先后主持過南宋太廟遺址、南宋臨安府治遺址、老虎洞南宋官窯遺址及恭圣仁烈皇后宅遺址、嚴官巷南宋御街遺址等的考古挖掘，項目多次入選“全國十大考古新發(fā)現(xiàn)”。

數(shù)十年光陰，杜正賢與南宋、與臨安、與皇城之間積下了深厚的淵源。我們且隨他沿著曾經(jīng)的御街古道，深入鳳凰山，一同開始探尋南宋皇城的隱秘。

一方石刻? 鳳凰山上尋皇城

“山上有一處寫著‘皇宮墻的石頭，今天不妨先去找找?！倍耪t兩手背在身后，腳步輕快，不時繞過鋪就的石階，踏踏林間泥地，頗有一番拜訪故友的愉快神色。

我們是由宋城路入鳳凰山的。車停在了鳳凰山腳下的一處平地上，就此步行上山。杜正賢告訴我們，鳳凰山麓這一帶堪稱杭州的風水寶地，自隋代開始便有文獻記載。隋開皇九年（公元589年），廢錢唐郡置州，州治初設(shè)余杭，故名“杭州”。當時的府治所在就選了這里。

沿山道而行不久，道旁有一方鐵皮圍欄包裹下的考古工地，正是圣果寺遺址。此寺在文獻中常被提及，是確定皇城方位的重要依據(jù)。眼前可見數(shù)個深淺不一的探方，其間埋藏的有關(guān)南宋的傳奇與記憶，只能有待考古人員揭曉了。

上行十余步，則見一方巨巖，刻“鳳山”二字，高約一米，右題“宋淳熙丁未春”，左題“洛王大通書”。西側(cè)山巖又有西方三佛巨像崩坍后留下的殘痕。像極高，約五米，杜正賢說，這些佛像如果仍在，應當是杭州最大的石佛雕像了。

然而，一行人一路已走至半山腰，卻仍未見所尋“皇城墻”石刻。杜正賢打了幾個電話，又盤桓山間許久，才終于在一處“野徑”旁的山石上找到了豎寫的“皇宮墻”三字。綠色的青苔襯著紅色字體，掩映在幽深的林木間，古意盎然。

“五六年沒來，沒想到它在此處！”游步道的修建，附近考古工地和樹木的變化，讓這位老考古人也一時迷失。如此想來，現(xiàn)在距南宋將近千年，要拂去歷史的迷霧，更談何容易。

南宋皇城在鳳凰山麓，被多種文獻所記錄。但其具體范圍，仍然在很長一段時間里眾說紛紜，莫衷一是。直到近20年，陸續(xù)挖掘到四周城墻的地基，才明確了皇城的范圍。

“皇城三面環(huán)山，北面為萬松嶺，南城墻以如今的宋城路為界，西側(cè)鳳凰山山體作墻，東城墻則緊貼饅頭山。北城墻和西城墻采用人工夯筑與自然山體相結(jié)合的建造方式，充分利用自然條件構(gòu)筑皇城防御設(shè)施?！倍耪t用幾句話為我們勾勒出了南宋皇城的輪廓。

據(jù)相關(guān)史料記載及考古發(fā)現(xiàn)，整個南宋皇城面積約0.6平方公里，僅有北宋開封皇城的二分之一左右。但其布局卻多有獨特之處。以皇城選址來說，中國古代都城的營建一般都遵循“坐北朝南”“左祖右社”的布局，即皇宮建在都城的北面，面向南方，以南門為正門，皇宮兩側(cè)左邊為太廟，右側(cè)為社壇;南宋皇城雖基本承襲了《周禮》“前朝后寢”的傳統(tǒng)，卻打破了古代皇城“坐北朝南”的布局，興建“南內(nèi)”，出現(xiàn)“北內(nèi)”與“南內(nèi)”并存的局面;同時，不同于古時都城講究對稱的習慣，南宋皇城并不存在一條縱貫南北的中軸線，形成了南宋臨安城“南宮北市”的特殊城市布局，顯然有別于一般皇城建筑規(guī)制。

杜正賢說，這塊“皇城墻”石刻距離真實的城墻其實尚有一段距離，或為后世好事者所書，并無考古價值，以前他也并不在意。但如今他倒覺得，這里提供了一個俯瞰皇城舊址的不錯的觀測點。

“聽說東面山下就是以前的皇城?！碑斎占澎o的空山，許久未聞人聲，我們唯一遇見的是一位操著淮北口音的老伯劉師傅，老人的收音機里咿咿呀呀放著戲曲。

循著老人手指的方向，穿透初夏蒼翠的山林，跨越數(shù)百年的歲月長河，那座早已深埋地下的神秘皇城似又浮現(xiàn)眼前，紅墻黛瓦、宮娥青紗穿梭其間……

一座官窯 老虎洞里讀宋瓷

但一座皇城并不只是宮殿而已，其間的人物和傳說，乃至各種物件，都會給之后的漫長歲月留下更深的刻印。

我們接下來的尋訪，則與一種當時內(nèi)宮里珍貴的器具相遇。那就是讓人驚羨的南宋官窯瓷。

1996年，一個偶然機會，杜正賢在雜草叢生的鳳凰山東麓山澗溪水旁發(fā)現(xiàn)了疑是南宋官窯的瓷片。這里離南宋皇城墻遺址不足百米。

經(jīng)過3次較大規(guī)模的調(diào)查和發(fā)掘，考古人員在這個被稱為“老虎洞”的窯址里共清理出24個瓷片坑，發(fā)現(xiàn)了南宋至元代3個時期的遺存，出土一大批完整的和可復原的瓷器和窯具。

宋代官窯由官府直接營建，分北宋官窯和南宋官窯。北宋官窯在北宋末年宋徽宗時才開始燒造，具體的窯址至今沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)。宋高宗南渡后，在臨安（今杭州）另設(shè)新窯，“置窯于修內(nèi)司”。老虎洞的發(fā)現(xiàn)，讓大多數(shù)研究者認定揭開了南宋修內(nèi)司官窯的神秘面紗。

我們在杭州博物館見到了幾尊泛著青色光澤的老虎洞出土瓷器。

宋代官窯瓷器主要為素面，胎色鐵黑、釉色粉青，“紫口鐵足”增添古樸典雅之美，官窯的器形除常見的盤、碟、洗等之外，仿商、周、秦、漢古銅器中的各式瓶、爐樣式也很多。

老虎洞出土的瓷器多已破碎。“當年應該是因釉色不均而被砸碎的，砸的點八成在瓶口位置?！倍耪t手指一件由碎瓷片拼湊起來的修內(nèi)司官窯玉壺春瓶說。

古時供給皇室的瓷器要求頗為嚴格，制成的器物只要略有瑕疵，既無法入貢，又不準流入市面，便只能毀掉。由此卻無意間將這些碎片保留給了我們。

從官窯玉壺春瓶到官窯夾層碗、官窯梅瓶……在杜正賢眼里，這里的每件瓷器都有自己的故事，也都映射著南宋獨特的審美。經(jīng)歷了唐代消亡、五代戰(zhàn)亂，終于安定下來的宋人進入理性思考的時期。

南宋官窯無法復制北宋汝窯的天青色，就轉(zhuǎn)而將粉青色作為最高的標準。這種色調(diào)別具一種輕盈、透明、溫潤的質(zhì)感。一位研究者曾充滿詩意地說，南宋把對北宋的追憶融合在了瓷器上。

宋人更偏愛天然雕飾、返璞歸真的極簡之美。家具、官窯、書籍都體現(xiàn)了這種審美傾向。雖然已逾近千年，這種風格卻越來越喚起現(xiàn)代人的共鳴。

隔三差五，我們會聽到宋代器物打破拍賣紀錄的消息，故有“家財萬貫，不及宋紙一張、宋瓷一片”之說。中國社科院文學所研究員揚之水說，花、香、畫、茶、瓷器，當然不是宋人的創(chuàng)造，卻是由宋人賦予了雅的品質(zhì)。

更重要的是，這種審美是沉浸在日常生活里的。飲茶、讀書、賞花……并非皇族的專利。因為日常，也流傳得更久。

月照何年，花逢幾世。皇城已然不再，其地表遺跡僅在萬松嶺路附近留下一段長約三四十米的北城墻，隱匿于荒草間，但那一方時空的文化藝術(shù)韻味卻依然回味悠長。

一片街區(qū)? 市井聲中覓余脈

當日，我們下了鳳凰山，一路往北，基本上沿著當時的御街行走，幽靜感逐漸消失，很快便置身于人聲鼎沸的市井之中。

這一帶是之前的皇城根，有各部機關(guān)，有太廟，現(xiàn)在則可能是杭州保留最完善的老城區(qū)。太廟巷、大馬弄，一路的小飯館、藥材店、熟食店、豬肉鋪。時近中午，附近小區(qū)的居民不少駐足在攤位前買菜，來來往往，十分熱鬧。

“南宋時甚至就有繁華的夜市?！倍耪t說，如今在杭州，像武林夜市、吳山夜市、河坊街夜市等，我們覺得司空見慣，但在宋之前，城市管理非常嚴格，包括對市場的限制。

比如，唐代長安城市坊格局分明，“坊”是居住區(qū)，四周有圍墻，有兩門或四門供人進出。一般人不準鑿墻開設(shè)私門，也不準朝著大街開設(shè)店鋪;“市”是交易區(qū)，日中擊鼓二百下開市，日落前擊鉦三百下散市。

到了宋時，臨安城里已然廢除坊市分割的規(guī)制，并允許面向大街開店，與居民混雜毗鄰，城市居民“坊郭戶”第一次被列入國家法定的戶籍管理分類。公元965年，宋太祖把宵禁開始時間推遲到凌晨一點，之后更是完全取消，出現(xiàn)了通宵達旦的夜市。

特別是到了節(jié)日，皇城內(nèi)外更是一片熱鬧。杜正賢介紹說，南宋宮廷與民間一樣，對年節(jié)十分重視。逢到元正、立春、元夕、中和、重九這些重要的節(jié)日，都有一整套的儀式。

元日、冬至兩日要舉行大朝會的儀式，稱之為“元正”?；实巯鹊礁幍罴笆ヌ蒙戏傧?，接著到天章閣祖宗神殿，行酌獻禮。然后回到福寧殿，接受皇后、太子、皇子等拜賀。完畢后，到大慶殿御史臺閣門，接受文武百僚們祝賀，奏太常雅樂，群臣十六拜，致辭上壽，樞密官代表皇上致答辭，賜酒宴，放鞭炮。午后，則要備辦晚宴，并放煙火，賞燈。

“但南宋也有簡樸的一面，皇城考古這么多年，我在這里沒見過一片琉璃瓦?！倍耪t感嘆說。這些可能與匆忙定都有關(guān)，皇室難有大興土木之力，對于都城的建設(shè)采取“能省則省”的務實態(tài)度。

A Glimpse of Linan， an Ancient Imperial City

of the Southern Song Dynasty

By Zhu Dawen? Huang Huixian? Peng Xianguo

When Marco Polo arrived in Hangzhou （then known as Linan）， well traveled as the man was， he was filled with amazement.

It is said that at that time Linan was still under the reign of South Song dynasty （1127-1279）， and before long it would be invaded and occupied by the Yuan （1271-1368） troops. Later it was burned to ashes by a big fire， the source of which was unable to identify.

After hundreds of years where dynasties frequently changed， now Linan， a once dream-like city at the Yangtze river， is being forgotten gradually， although it had its days of unparalleled prosperity.

For Linan， the Imperial City is the most important remains of the Southern Song dynasty. And it left a rich underground cultural heritage， from the Imperial City and Deshou Palace at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain to the Imperial Temple and the Imperial Street under the Ziyang Mountain.

When it comes to this， Du Zhengxian has his own thoughts. He has presided over several archaeological excavation projects related to the Southern Song dynasty remains， and his projects have been frequently featured in the “Top Ten New Archaeological Discoveries in China”.

Now， lets follow him along the ancient road of the Imperial Street， and deep into the Phoenix Mountain， to explore the untold stories of the Southern Song Imperial City.

“There is a stone on the hill that says ‘Palace Wall， so we might want to go and find it for starters，” said Du， putting both hands behind his back and walking briskly， as if he was pleasantly on the way to meeting an old friend.

We entered the Phoenix Mountain from the Songcheng Road. After parking our car on a flat area at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain， we walked up the mountain. Du told us that this area is highly treasured in Hangzhou， because of its good fengshui， which has been documented since the Sui dynasty （581-618）. In the year 589， Qiantang was abolished as a county （jun） and then set up as a prefecture （zhou）， with Yuhang serving as the government seat， hence the name “Hangzhou”.

Shortly after walking along the mountain road， there is an archaeological site wrapped in iron fencing next to the road， which is the remains of the Sacred Fruit Temple. This temple is often mentioned in the literature as an important basis for determining where the imperial city was.

Going up for a dozen steps， a huge rock with various engraving could be seen. On the west side of the rock， there are remnants of the collapsed statue of the Three Western Buddha. The statue was believed to be extremely high， about five meters. If these Buddha statues were still in existence， they would have been the largest stone Buddha statue in Hangzhou， according to DU.

However， although we had reached the halfway point of the mountain， the “Palace Wall” stone carving was still nowhere in sight. It was only after Du made several phone calls and hovered around for some time that the words “Palace Wall” were finally found written vertically on the rock next to one that says “Wilderness Path”.

“I havent visited this place since five or six years ago， and here it is！” All the changes have well confused even this experienced archaeologist. If you think about it—nearly a thousand years have passed since the Southern Song dynasty， and it is never easy to see through the mist of history.

The Southern Song Imperial City at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain has been recorded in various documents. However， the specific scope of the Imperial City has been unclear for quite a long time. In the past two decades， it has finally been clarified because the foundations of the surrounding walls have been discovered during continuous excavations.

“The Imperial City is surrounded by mountains on three sides： the north is the Wansong Hill; the south wall is bounded by Songcheng Road; the west is the Phoenix Mountain; the east is close to the Mantou Mountain. The northern and western walls were built by artificial construction while relying on natural hills， and the whole defense system was also created by making full use of the nature.” Du shortly sketched out the outline of the Imperial City for us.

According to relevant historical records and archaeological findings， the entire Southern Song Imperial City in Linan covers an area of about 0.6 square kilometers， only half the size of the Northern Song Dynasty Imperial City in Kaifeng. However， its layout has many unique features. For instance， in Linan， the palace stands in the south of the city while the markets in the north， quite the opposite from traditions.

“Although this ‘Palace Wall stone carving is far from the real walls back then，” said Du， “it is a good observation point overlooking the old Imperial City.”

But an imperial city is not just a palace; it is more about the people， the legends， and the objects. Our next visit was to see the amazing Southern Song official kiln porcelains.

In 1996， Du Zhengxian happened to find a porcelain tile， which looked like an object from one of the Southern Song official kilns. It was discovered beside a stream at the eastern foot of the Phoenix Mountain， less than 100 meters from the site of the Imperial City wall.

After three large-scale investigations and excavations， archaeologists cleared a total of 24 porcelain tile pits at the site， known as the “Tigers Cave”， and discovered the remains of three periods from the Southern Song dynasty to the Yuan dynasty， unearthing a large number of complete and recoverable porcelains.

In Dus eyes， each piece of the porcelains here has its own story and maps the unique aesthetics of the Southern Song dynasty. From those porcelains， we could easily figure out that the Song people preferred the natural and minimalist beauty， and this century-old aesthetic taste is increasingly resonating with modern people.

Later， we descended the Phoenix Mountain and made our way north， generally walking along what was then the Imperial Street， where the sense of seclusion gradually disappeared and we were soon in the middle of the bustling city.

This area was the root of the former Imperial City， with its various ministries and temples， and now is probably the best preserved old town in Hangzhou. “There were even prosperous night markets in the Southern Song dynasty，” explained Du.

Walking along the street， we are deeply impressed， for the soul of the Song Dynasty not only survives in poems， books and songs， but also flows in the ordinary lanes and streets. Even the authentic Hangzhou dialect， which drifted into our ears from time to time in this neighborhood， is speaking the changes of the Southern Song dynasty.

That being said， whether it is the Taimiao Ruins Park and the Southern Song Dynasty Ruins Exhibition Hall on South Zhongshan Road， the Cultural and Creative Park at the foot of Phoenix Mountain Road， or even a random store on the roadside， all of them are marked by history and are connected with time and space in their own way.

Sacred Fruit Temple Site

It is located in the west of the Broom Bay between the Jiangtai Mountain and the Phoenix Mountain in Shangcheng district， Hangzhou. The Sacred Fruit Temple was built in the second year of Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty （582）. A number of historical sites lie around the place.

Southern Song Dynasty Imperial Temple Site

Located in Ziyang Street， it was built during the reign of Emperor Gaozong of the Song Dynasty and was second in scale and form only to the inner Imperial Palace.

Deshou Palace Ruins

Located on the north side of Wangjiang Road in Shangcheng district， Hangzhou， it was once the old residence of Qin Hui （1090-1155）， before Emperor Gaozong of Song dynasty took it back and built a new palace.

North Wall Site of Southern Song Dynasty Imperial City

Located in the south of Wansongling Road and west of the citys Chinese herbal medicine warehouse， it is one of the few surviving above-ground sites of the Southern Song Dynasty Imperial City.

Tigers Cave， the Southern Song Dynasty Official Kiln Site

It is located in a long and narrow ravine between the Phoenix Mountain and the Jiuhua Mountain in Shangcheng district， Hangzhou. The excavators believe that the Southern Song layer of this site is the “Southern Song Xiuneisi Official Kiln”， as documented in historical records.