◇ 文圖|吳 平（泰國）

Arphon Thiragun，中文名吳平，生于泰國孔敬府，本科畢業(yè)于孔敬大學(xué)，碩士畢業(yè)于西南大學(xué)，現(xiàn)為西南大學(xué)漢語言文獻(xiàn)研究所在讀博士研究生。專注讀書，熱愛旅行，鐘情烹飪，癡迷花草。

Arphon Thiragun, who uses the Chinese name Wu Ping, was born in Khon Kaen, Thailand. After she graduated from Khon Kaen University with a bachelor’s degree, she studied in Southwest University and obtained her master’s degree. Now she is a doctor student studying in Institute for Chinese Language & Document, Southwest University. Not just a booklover, she is also a big fan of travelling, who loves cooking and growing flowers and plants.

我出生在泰國東北部的孔敬府，在傳統(tǒng)泰國美食的浸淫中長大。

泰國東北菜系既有聲名遠(yuǎn)揚(yáng)、婦孺皆知的酸辣蝦湯、椰汁雞、泰式紅咖喱，也有地域色彩濃郁、地方風(fēng)味突出的青木瓜沙拉、辣肉末沙拉、炭烤豬頸肉等。再加上品種豐富的泰式小吃、飲料、水果，讓我覺得泰國菜就是全天下最美味，也是最治愈系的菜肴，它是伴隨我成長記憶而慢慢凝聚成的一種認(rèn)同感。

機(jī)緣巧合，我在泰國念大學(xué)的時(shí)候，被選中到重慶做短期的交換學(xué)習(xí)。短暫的學(xué)習(xí)，讓我愛上了重慶這座城市的美景和美食。后來，我努力學(xué)習(xí)申請(qǐng)獎(jiǎng)學(xué)金，數(shù)年后再次回到重慶攻讀碩士和博士學(xué)位，很重要的原因就是我真的無敵喜歡重慶菜。

01 泰國超市的新鮮榴蓮和其他新鮮熱帶水果

02 多用于婚禮上的泰國金福糕點(diǎn)

Born in Khon Kaen, the northeast of Thailand, I grew up with traditional Thailand food.

My hometown is not only famous for its northeast Thailand cuisine, such as wellknow Tom Yum Khung, Tom Kha Gai, Gaeng Phet, but also enjoys a widespread reputation in the food with strong local flavor like Som Tam, Larb, Ko Moo Yang. Plus the rich variety of Thailand snacks, drinks and fruits, it makes me feel that Thailand food is the most delicious and fantastic cuisine in the world. Actually, it is a sense of identity that is gradually formed with my growing memory.

By chance, I was chosen to go to Chongqing for a short-term exchange when I was at college in Thailand. It is precisely because of the chance that I loved the beautiful scenery and delicious cuisine of Chongqing. Several years later, I worked hard to apply for the scholarship and returned to Chongqing again to study for the master and doctor’s degree. One of the important reasons behind it is my extremely fond of Chongqing cuisine.

花椒：從崩潰到喜愛的味道

How I Start to Love Sichuan Pepper from Giving It a Wide Berth

多年前的七月，當(dāng)我第一次踏上重慶的土地時(shí)就驚呆了：熱氣蒸騰的天氣，熱心暖意的當(dāng)?shù)厝?，跟泰國很像；而更讓我覺得有歸屬感的是，重慶有我最愛的辣椒！原來兩個(gè)地方因?yàn)閻灍釟夂?，都需要食辣來化解人體內(nèi)部的濕熱。

重慶菜跟主打酸辣風(fēng)的泰國菜在口味上最大的差別，是大量添加的花椒。

在英語中被稱為Sichuan Pepper 的這種調(diào)料，據(jù)說曾經(jīng)是古代皇宮的后妃居所中所必備的香料，在古代漢語里有“椒房”的美名。

后妃們一定很愛這種味道，但對(duì)于在飲食史上花椒缺席的泰國人來說，花椒一開始帶給我的刺激是拒絕和崩潰的：怎么會(huì)有這樣刺激舌根到麻木、讓大腦都要癱瘓的調(diào)料。

我甚至知道，有個(gè)調(diào)皮的學(xué)弟，離開重慶前給家人購置回國手信，竟然買了一大包花椒，他說要讓家里人都知道，他在重慶過的是如何的“麻辣人生”，讓大家都來一起吃苦、感同身受?？砂盐倚牧?。

后來的我，慢慢地愛上了花椒這種酥酥麻麻、讓食物的香味在舌尖上跳躍的感覺了。雖然偶爾咬到一?；ń纷眩€是會(huì)麻到流淚，但無形之間卻拉近了我和重慶的距離。因?yàn)槲易约涸谧鎏﹪说臅r(shí)候，偶爾也會(huì)想著放一點(diǎn)花椒，變成一種改良版菜肴的新口味。

I was pleasantly surprised when I set foot on Chongqing for the first time in July several years ago: the hot weather, passionate local people are so much like Thailand; what made me feel a sense of belong is that Chongqing has peppers, which is my favorite! The sweltering weather in both Thailand and Chongqing has required spicy peppers to dissolve our hot and humid constitution.

But the biggest difference between Chongqing cuisine and Thai cuisine featured with sour and hot flavor, is the heavy addition of Sichuan pepper.

Sichuan Pepper, as a seasoning, is said to be the requisite spice for the concubines in ancient imperial palace and it enjoyed the good name of “Room of Pepper” in ancient Chinese.

I suppose that the concubines must love this flavor. However, as a Thai who had never eaten Sichuan Pepper before, I couldn’t accept the taste of Sichuan pepper at the very beginning. I was reluctant to taste such an irritant seasoning and I could feel my root of tongue numb and my brain paralyzed!

I once heard a story that a naughty school brother bought a large bag of Sichuan pepper for his family as a gift before he left Chongqing and returned home by saying that he wanted his family to know how he lived the “pungent and spicy life” in Chongqing and he’d like his family to feel what he felt. This is really interesting and it cracks me up.

03 火鍋里大把大把的花椒粒，最初讓我有多崩潰，后來就讓我有多喜愛

Later, I gradually fell in love with Sichuan pepper for its pungent and scrumptious taste. It tastes so divine and I even can feel it spreading in my tongue tip. Though I am stung into tears occasionally when I bite a prickly ash seed, I feel I am closer to be a Chongqing person unknowingly. Now when I cook some Thailand food, I would always put some Sichuan pepper to add a new taste.

打卡：尋味“重慶美食心愿清單”

Going Every Corner to Seek for the “List of Chongqing cuisine”

現(xiàn)在重慶也開了很多家泰國餐廳了，我可以很容易地吃到來自家鄉(xiāng)的味道。

但我更大的樂趣，是按本地朋友的推薦，在重慶的大街小巷里聞香覓食。

沒有課的時(shí)候，我就像只小饞蟲一樣，在我的“重慶美食心愿清單”上去尋味。

火鍋是重慶的名片，我也喜歡去本地人喜歡的防空洞、地下室、巷子口、堡坎下、山頂頂、路邊邊這樣極具重慶地方特色的店面：配上土灶和長凳，在濃郁凝滯的牛油打底、秘門配方獨(dú)家熬制的紅艷香濃的湯汁中把那些牛肚、豬喉、鵝腸、雞血、土豆、藕片、苕粉、豆芽等等迅速燙熟（很多菜品令外國人聞風(fēng)喪膽，但吃過就會(huì)愛上），再放進(jìn)香油、蒜泥、調(diào)味鹽的小碗里翻滾一下，趁熱入嘴，那味道跟泰式小火鍋的溫婉細(xì)膩完全不一樣。

04/05 毛肚、鴨腸、腦花，這些菜品光聽名字就令外國人聞風(fēng)喪膽，但吃過就會(huì)愛上

我吃過知名連鎖的小天鵝、德莊、劉一手，也吃過小眾的莽子、大龍、黃姐，我覺得它們各有千秋。

江湖菜也是我的心頭愛，雖然我對(duì)衛(wèi)生環(huán)境有點(diǎn)擔(dān)心，但仍然無法抵御江湖菜來自舌尖的挑逗和誘惑：簡單粗暴的猛火急烹，一鍋鍋、一盤盤色香味俱全的美食三下五除二就擺在了眼前，品種豐富到目不暇接。

我最喜歡吃雞肉和魚肉，雞肉已經(jīng)打卡了南山泉水雞、歌樂山辣子雞、李子壩梁山雞、石灰市芋兒雞、酒鼎尖椒雞、鐵山坪花椒雞、黔江雞雜等，魚肉則吃過了潼南太安魚、綦江北渡魚、江津酸菜魚、璧山來鳳魚、翠云水煮魚、大足郵亭鯽魚、三溪口豆腐魚等。

再加上外國人根本不敢下嘴的一些菜品，比如烤腦花。豬腦還可以烤著吃？嚇！這么肥膩的食物，也就重慶人敢吃吧，把挑干凈血絲的腦花放在錫箔紙內(nèi)慢慢烤熟，再佐以干辣椒面、花椒面以及其它的佐料，竟然完全沒有任何腥味，入口油而不膩。

對(duì)了，還有一款令很多外國人都鬼哭狼嚎的怪菜：涼拌折耳根。它以新鮮魚腥草的莖葉為主，拌上紅油、辣椒、花椒、白糖、香醋，這股魚腥味真的是讓人無法言說！

Nowadays, there are many Thai restaurants in Chongqing and I can easily eat the food with my hometown taste.

But my bigger fun is to seek for different kinds of food in the streets and alleyways of Chongqing on the local friends' recommendation.

When I am not in class, I usually go everywhere to seek the tasty food on my “List of Chongqing cuisine”, just like a glutton.

Hot pot is the symbol of Chongqing and it will be the first thing in your mind at the mere mention of Chongqing. I also like to go to small restaurants with local features of Chongqing no matter whether it is in an airraid shelter, basement, alley, under a fort, at the top of a mountain or at the roadside. Just imagine, sit on the bench in front of the mud stove, watch the strong caky beef tallow bottoming melting in the red and rich flavor cooking liquor exclusively made with secret recipe and pick up a chopstick of tripe, pork aorta, goose intestine, chicken blood, potatoes, lotus root slices, batata starch, bean sprout and put into the soup to boil it for a moment (Many foreigners may be frightened by the dish name but will love it after taking a taste of it) and then put it into the source dish with sesame oil, mashed garlic and seasoning salt to roll it over so that the source will be completely covered and then put it into your mouth to enjoy the delectable taste. It is totally different from the light Thai little hot pot.

I have ever been to well-known chain stores such as Cygnet, Morals Village, Liu Yishou, and also some niche restaurants such as Mangzi, Dalong, Huangjie. I like them all and they all have their own characteristics.

I am also fond of different folk flavor cuisines. Though I am a little worried about the sanitation, I still can’t resist its tease and tempt to my tip of tongue. Simply cooked with high firing, dishes with perfect combination of color, aroma and taste will soon be served on the table in front of you. There are of such a great variety that you feel like you want to eat them all.

My favorite food is chicken and fish. So far, I have had Nanshan Spring Chicken, Geleshan Spicy Chicken, Liziba Liangshan Chicken, Shihui Chicken with Taro, Jiuding Chicken with Chili Pepper, Tieshanping Pepper Chicken, Qianjiang Chicken Giblets, etc.; as for fish, I have had Tongnan Tai’an Fish, Qijiang Beidu Fish, Jiangjin Boiled Fish with Pickled Cabbage and Chill, Bishan Laifeng Fish, Cuiyun Poached Fish in Chili Oil, Dazu Youting Crucian, Sanxikou Fish with Beancurd, etc.

06 走世界也要品美食，新西蘭生煎三文魚和沙拉

07 我在泰國菜里創(chuàng)意性地添加了一些重慶菜的元素

I even have tasted some dishes that foreigners usually dare not to eat at the mere mention of the name, for example, roasted pig brain. What? Can pig brain be roasted? How scaring it is!" such questions may come up in your mind. I am afraid only Chongqing people dare to eat such rich and greasy food. They put the brain that blood streak is picked clean into the silver paper to toast it and then scatter chili powder, pepper powder and other seasonings and thus, a flavorful dish is done. You will surprisingly find that there is not any smell of blood, oil but not greasy.

Well, I can't help myself to introduce you another weird dish that frightens many foreigners: cold houttuynia cordata. With the stern and leaves of fresh houttuynia cordata as the main food material, it is mixed with red oil, chili, pepper, white sugar, aromatic vinegar. Words will fall through to describe the fishlike smell!

美食：消弭距離的世界語言

Cate is a World Language that Makes the Distance Disappear

慢慢地，我開始學(xué)著做一些重慶菜，或者在我熟悉的泰國菜里創(chuàng)意性地添加一些重慶菜的元素，原來也還蠻好玩的！

因?yàn)樽x書生活，我在重慶已經(jīng)呆了好多年了，已經(jīng)深深地愛上了這座重油重辣重鹽的城市。雖然我博士畢業(yè)在即，很快就要踏上歸程，但心里是舍不得離開的。

泰國菜對(duì)于我來說，是沁入骨髓的鄉(xiāng)愁；而重慶菜，也遲早會(huì)化作我身心的一部分。

要我說，泰餐與重慶菜的距離，它不是2000 公里一張機(jī)票的量化，而是日漸增進(jìn)了解之后的“盈盈山水間、脈脈相與語”。

食物是世界上共通的語言，就讓我們用最簡樸的食物文化來消弭距離——這是我們對(duì)美食的忠誠！為了把這段距離進(jìn)一步拉近，回到泰國后，我想有機(jī)會(huì)也開一家小小的重慶菜館，讓來泰國旅行的重慶人，在泰渝融合菜品中發(fā)現(xiàn)更多的熟悉和驚喜。

Gradually, I started to learn to cook some Chongqing dishes, or creatively add some elements of Chongqing cuisine into Thai cuisine and I found it a big fun!

I've been in Chongqing for many years for my study and I’ve deeply fallen in love with this city with strong oily, spicy and salty food. I will graduate soon with a doctor’s degree and leave the beloved city, but I know I am reluctant and I love this city!

For me, Thai cuisine is the nostalgia infusing into my bone; while Chongqing cuisine will be part of my mind and body one day.

If you ask me how I feel about the difference between Thai cuisine and Chongqing cuisine, I will say it is not a mere air ticket with 2000km distance, but an appreciation of each other after mutual understanding.

Food is the common language in the world and let’s bridge the distance with the simplest food culture-this is our loyalty to cate! To draw the distance close, if there is a chance, I might run a small Chongqing restaurant after I return to Thailand so that the Chongqing people who come to Thailand for travelling will find more familiarity and surprise in the Thai-Chongqing integrated cuisine!