文/莫利·埃德蒙茲 譯/董婷婷

Many Asian countries practice some sort of tea ceremony, but perhaps the most famous version is the one performed in Japan. A tea ceremony isn’t your average tea party. When you attend a Japanese tea ceremony, you’re taking part in a historic tradition, one that allows you to seek enlightenment and search for beauty and peace in our hectic1hectic忙碌的。world.

[2] Long before the guests arrive, the host of the ceremony is hard at work on a to-do list that would make Martha Stewart shudder22 shudder（因寒冷、害怕或激動而）發(fā)抖，戰(zhàn)栗。. The host must devise a theme for the event, such as an appreciation for sunrise or sunset or an awareness of the changing of the seasons. To emphasize this theme, the host selects a calligraphy scroll and creates flower arrangements that will accent3accent突出。the tearoom. Tearooms are traditionally entered through a garden, so in addition to cleaning the room, the host must also tend and clean the garden. One of the most dif fi cult tasks might be select-

許多亞洲國家或多或少都有茶道，不過其中最知名的要數(shù)日本茶道了。茶道并非簡單的茶會，日本的茶道儀式是一項(xiàng)莊嚴(yán)的歷史傳統(tǒng)，置身其中，你可以忘卻忙碌的生活，追求開悟，找尋美和安寧。

[2]在賓客到來之前，茶道主人早已不辭辛苦地列好一長串任務(wù)清單，美國家政女王瑪莎·斯圖爾特看了估計(jì)也會大吃一驚。主人首先需要為此次茶道定個(gè)主題，例如“看日出”“賞日落”，抑或“感知季節(jié)變換”。為了增強(qiáng)主題色彩，主人還會選好一幅書法掛軸，并制作插花，以點(diǎn)綴茶室。通常來說，賓客會先經(jīng)過一座花園再進(jìn)入茶室。所以，主人不僅要打掃茶室，還須清理一下花園。最艱巨的任務(wù)之一莫過于選出合適的上茶器皿，因ing the utensils4utensil器皿。that will be used to serve the tea since there is a wide array of bowls that are made speci fi cally for these ceremonies. In other words, the tea ceremony host must be a master of many Japanese arts, from calligraphy to ceramics, and tea masters study for decades to stage5stage上演；舉辦。one event.為茶道專用茶碗各式各樣，種類繁多。簡言之，茶道主人須熟知從書法到陶藝等多種日本藝術(shù)；而茶藝師們會為此學(xué)上數(shù)十年，只為呈現(xiàn)一場茶道。

Tea ceremony steps

[3] Tea ceremonies usually take place in a tearoom, and traditional tearooms are located in teahouses set in a garden.Traversing6traverse穿過。the garden is an important step for guests of the tea ceremony;this time allows them to set their intentions7intention心思，想法。for the ceremony and leave the everyday world behind. The host has an assistant who guides guests through the garden, which includes a stop at a water basin to wash their hands. Before arriving at the tearoom, the guests must elect a “head guest” who will be the one to communicate directly with the host.Tearooms usually have smaller doors that force guests to bow to enter; this step signifies that all are equal within the tearoom.

[4] The floor will be covered with tatami8tatami音譯“榻榻米”，藺草編織的草席，一年四季都鋪在地上供人坐或臥的一種家具。, or woven mats that serve as units of measure. Each tatami measures approximately 6 feet by 3 feet (0.91

茶道流程

[3]一般來說，茶道在茶室進(jìn)行。傳統(tǒng)的茶室坐落于花園中的茶房內(nèi)。對于賓客而言，步行穿過花園是茶道的一個(gè)重要環(huán)節(jié)。此時(shí)段可助其除去凡塵雜念，靜下心來專注于隨后的儀式。主人的助手會引導(dǎo)賓客穿過花園，賓客進(jìn)門前在園中水盆里凈手。來賓們須在到達(dá)茶室前選出一名“主賓”，他之后將直接與主人交流。茶室的入口比一般的門要矮小，賓客須彎腰進(jìn)入，這象征著茶室內(nèi)人人平等。

[4]茶室地板會鋪上計(jì)量用的榻榻米或編織坐墊。每塊榻榻米規(guī)格約為6英尺×3英尺（約合1.82米×0.91米），一個(gè)傳統(tǒng)茶室一般以置放四疊半榻榻米為度，小巧緊湊，私密性好。傳統(tǒng)的茶道儀式上，賓客著和服參加，或坐或跪于meters by 1.82 meters) and a traditional tearoom is 4.5 tatami, which means the space is quite small and intimate. In a traditional ceremony, guests will be wearing kimonos9kimono和服（日本傳統(tǒng)服飾）。, and they will sit or kneel on the tatami. First, they will observe their host perform a charcoal ceremony10炭禮法：為燒沏茶水的地爐或者茶爐準(zhǔn)備炭的程序。, a special method of building the fi re that will heat the water for tea.

[5] There are two ways the ceremony could proceed following the work with the charcoal. In achaji, which lasts about 3 to 4 hours, the host will serve a formal meal of several courses and then serve tea; achakai,on the other hand,doesn’t include a meal but merely the tea. But whether there is a meal or not,guests are served small sweets which prepare their palates111 palate味覺。for the tea.

[6] Next, it is time for the host to make tea, which is done with very precise, choreographed12choreograph設(shè)計(jì)，編排。movements.The host heats the water over the fire and cleans the tools and utensils. First,the host prepares a thick tea by adding a little bit of water to several scoops of powdered green tea and whisking13whisk攪拌。the ingredients together. The result is almost paste-like, and the taste is quite bitter. The host passes the bowl in which the tea was mixed to the head guest, who turns the bowl three times before sipping. The head guest then榻榻米上。賓客進(jìn)入茶室首先會觀看炭禮法——這是一種特別的點(diǎn)火方式，用以煮水泡茶。

[5]火生好后，按需求不同，茶道有兩種不同形式：一是“茶事”，其間主人會準(zhǔn)備一頓包含幾道料理的正餐，然后上茶，一般持續(xù)三四個(gè)小時(shí)；二是“茶會”，沒有正餐，只飲茶。但是，無論有無正餐，賓客們都能先享用一些小甜點(diǎn)，為品茶做好準(zhǔn)備。

[6]下一步，主人該備茶了，這要求準(zhǔn)確完成一套精心設(shè)計(jì)的動作。主人煮上水，清潔好茶具器皿。首先，盛出幾勺抹茶，加上少許水?dāng)嚢?，制成濃茶。茶為糊狀，味甚苦。主人將攪勻濃茶的茶碗送至主wipes the bowl and passes it to the next guest, and it continues to pass until all guests have had some tea. During this time, the head guest will question the host about the utensils and bowls used during this part of the ceremony; many of these instruments will have a long and storied history.

[7] After the thick tea, the host will make a thin tea, which is the liquid version that we’re familiar with. The host will add more water and the tea will be served in individual cups. Both host and guests use the ceremony as a time to try to live fully in the moment, meditating on these ritualized actions and appreciating the aesthetics of the room and the ceremony.賓面前，主賓接茶，爾后三轉(zhuǎn)茶碗，輕啜慢飲之后將茶碗拭干，遞給下一位賓客。余下賓客依次傳飲，直至所有賓客都飲過茶則止。飲茶過程中，主賓會就儀式所用的茶碗器皿提問；其中許多用具都有著漫長而傳奇的歷史。

[7]飲完濃茶，主人會準(zhǔn)備薄茶，即我們常見的茶水樣子。這次，主人往茶里注入更多的水，制好后再分別倒入不同茶杯中。無論主賓都盡情享受此時(shí)此刻，沉浸于儀式中，欣賞茶室和茶藝之美。

History of the tea ceremony

[8] Tea came to Japan from China in the ninth century. Buddhist monks in the country realized that consuming the beverage helped them stay alert during long stretches of meditation. They passed this tip along to Japanese monks who visited, and as tea became standard in Japanese monasteries, it also became popular with elite members of Japanese society, such as emperors, aristocrats and warriors. From the ninth to the 15th century, two different types of tea ceremonies emerged—a simple one performed by the monks and an elaborate one enjoyed by the nobility. The latter

茶道的歷史起源

[8] 9世紀(jì)時(shí)，茶由中國傳至日本。中國的僧侶發(fā)現(xiàn)，飲茶可助其在長時(shí)間冥想時(shí)保持頭腦清醒。他們將此竅門告知來訪的日本僧侶，飲茶從此成為日本寺廟的常規(guī)之一。同時(shí)，飲茶之風(fēng)也開始在日本社會的精英階層盛行起來，天皇、貴族及武士都熱衷于飲茶。到15世紀(jì)時(shí)，日本出現(xiàn)了兩種不同類型的茶道——一種是僧侶們進(jìn)行的簡單茶道，一種是貴族階層品鑒的更精致復(fù)雜的茶道。后者可持續(xù)數(shù)日：賓客們享用豐盛宴席、觀賞舞蹈表演及體育競技的同時(shí)，貴族和ceremony could last for days, as aristocrats and rulers presented dozens, even hundreds, of cups of tea for their guests to taste while they enjoyed dance performances, lavish banquets and athletic competitions.

[9] In the 15th and 16th centuries,three men shaped the style of the tea ceremony as we know it today. The fi rst was Murata Shuko (1423—1502), who was appalled by the ostentatious nature of the ceremonies hosted by the elite.He had studied Zen Buddhism14佛教禪宗把佛性界定為純真樸實(shí)的生命本然，只有通過不斷地拂拭內(nèi)心，才能最終令塵埃無可染之處。and wanted the tea ceremony to be simpler and more aligned with Zen beliefs. Zen Buddhists hold that everyday activities can lead to enlightenment, and Shuko believed that by serving tea in a deliberate, studied manner, people could better appreciate the world around them.

[10] Shuko’s mission was carried on by Takena Joo (1502—1555), who reclaimed the tea ceremony from the upper classes by establishing tearooms that were simple and unadorned, so that guests could focus more fully on the task of tea. Joo’s disciple, Sen no Rikyū (1522—1591), was probably the most in fl uential of the three men. Rikyū believed that tea ceremonies must demonstrate the aesthetic ofwabi155 〈日語〉侘び（わび）：一種與茶道相關(guān)的美學(xué)意識，表達(dá)的是講求黯淡，經(jīng)過歲月洗煉的古雅、儉樸、收斂與貧乏的意象，包含雖然外表一般但追求質(zhì)感和美感的意愿。, which統(tǒng)治者會提供幾十乃至上百杯茶請他們品嘗。

[9] 15世紀(jì)至16世紀(jì)期間，在三大主要人物的改造和弘揚(yáng)下，現(xiàn)代茶道初具雛形。日本茶道第一人是村田珠光（1423—1502），他驚駭于上流社會那種浮華的茶道儀式，而他曾修行禪宗，便將禪宗思想引入茶道，讓茶道更簡約。禪宗教徒相信，日常行為也能引至開悟；珠光認(rèn)為，以一種審慎講究的方式飲茶，人們能更好地理解周遭世界。

[10]武 野 紹 鷗（1502—1555）承前啟后，將珠光的思想發(fā)揚(yáng)光大。他將上層階級的茶道進(jìn)行改造，建造簡約、不加修飾的茶室，這樣，賓客才能更加專注于茶事本身。紹鷗的弟子千利休（1522—1591）或許是三人中影響最深遠(yuǎn)的。他認(rèn)為，茶道須展現(xiàn)出“侘”之美，“侘”字意為某種“安貧樂道”；擺脫了物質(zhì)牽絆，人才能獲得更高層次的滿足感。參加茶道的賓客應(yīng)追求樸實(shí)之美，而非恣意于侈靡之中；他們應(yīng)努力感知自然世界，看refers to a kind of spiritual poverty, because by emptying themselves, people could find fulfillment with something greater. Rather than indulging in extravagance, tea ceremony participants should seek simplicity. They should strive for awareness of the natural world and fi nd beauty in imperfections.

[11] Additionally, Rikyū claimed there were four principles of tea: harmony, respect, purity and tranquility.Every movement within a tearoom on the part of the host and the guests is in service of living these principles—the host should pick utensils that are harmonious with a given theme, and guests must show respect by handling the utensils with care. Purity is achieved by leaving the secular world behind and focusing on this special ceremony—tranquility is considered attainable after the fi rst three principles are met.到缺憾中的美。

[11]此外，千利休還提出了茶道的四字宗旨——和、敬、清、寂。在茶室中，主人賓客的一言一行都須以此為綱：主人須選用與給定主題相合的器具，賓客則須小心恭敬地端取。把世俗世界拋于腦后，專注于眼前這一特別的儀式，內(nèi)心便清靜；而當(dāng)做到“和、敬、清”三要旨，內(nèi)心便自然趨于“寂”。

Tea ceremony sets

[12] In the fi rst few centuries that tea ceremonies were practiced in Japan, the participants used tea sets and utensils from China; after all, that’s where the practice of serving tea originated.

[13] One of Sen no Rikyū’s in fl uences on the practice of tea was doing away with these foreign and elaborate tea sets. Rikyū preferred very simple and rustic pieces from Japan, and if they had some kind of flaw, then so much

茶具

[12]日本茶道發(fā)展的最初幾百年，所用的茶具和器皿均來自中國；畢竟茶道源于中國。

[13]在日本茶道發(fā)展上，千利休的另一大影響便是使其脫離了中國的精致茶具。他自身更鐘愛日本本土粗糙質(zhì)樸的茶具，如果茶具上有些許瑕疵the better—trying to see beauty in the simple and the imperfect was one of Rikyū’s goals throughout his work with the tea ceremony.

[14] Hosting a tea ceremony requires an immense amount of utensils and tools. Depending on the season, hosts need aroor afuro; arois a sunken hearth that is used in the winter, and afurois a brazier, or a pan that is used in the summer months on an open fi re.Theroand thefuroprovide the heat for boiling the water for the tea.

[15] Thekama16kama茶釜：茶道會中燒水用的鍋或壺。, or kettle, would be placed atop theroorfuro, full of water from themizusashi17mizusashi水指（茶道中，盛放干凈的水的器皿）。, or water jug.As the water heats, the ceremony host would use additional water to wash the tea bowl, called achawan. The host would then take the green tea from theusuki188 usuki放濃茶的小陶瓷罐子。, the tea container, using achashaku, or tea scoop. The host adds the powdered tea to thechawan, and then adds the boiling water with thehishaku,or ladle199 ladle長柄勺。. Then, the host would take thechasen, a bamboo whisk, to stir the tea, which he would then present to the guests. Throughout the ceremony,several types of napkins and cleaning cloths would also be used.

[16] Tea ceremonies are governed就更好不過了。感受樸素與殘缺之美是千利休欲通過茶道達(dá)成的一個(gè)目的。

[14]舉行一場茶道儀式需要相當(dāng)數(shù)量的用具器皿。依時(shí)節(jié)不同，主人需要不同的爐子——“地爐”或“風(fēng)爐”。地爐嵌在地上，冬季用；“風(fēng)爐”類似于炭盆或夏季在明火上使用的平底鍋。兩種爐都是用來燒水泡茶的。

[15]茶釜（壺）盛滿來自水指的水，置放在地爐（或風(fēng)爐）上。煮水期間，茶道主人會用額外的水清洗茶碗，隨后用茶杓從茶罐里取出綠茶，將茶粉放入茶碗中，再用柄杓盛出沸水放進(jìn)茶碗。之后，主人會取用一把竹質(zhì)的攪棒（茶筅）把茶攪勻，然后奉給賓客品嘗。主人會備好多種餐巾和清潔布供儀式期間使用。

[16]在日本茶道中，“一

〔〕〔〕by a concept known as ichigo ichie20“一期”即人的一生，“一會”則意味著僅有一次的相會，即使同主同客同一地方可反復(fù)舉行多次茶事，也不能再現(xiàn)此時(shí)此刻之景。在茶道中，主人和客人都以一種誠摯的態(tài)度，就像一生只有一次機(jī)會那樣，體會每一次茶道。,or one time, one meeting. Even though the same series of tasks is performed at every tea ceremony, there is an awareness of the fact that every moment that the host and guests spend together is a unique one that can’t be duplicated. Understanding this concept forces participants to slow down and focus on each second, appreciating it for its distinctiveness and it also forces the host to put on a special, meaningful event. ■期一會”的觀念深入人心。即便每次茶道流程無異，但主客均懷著“每時(shí)每刻獨(dú)一無二，不可復(fù)制”的心態(tài)，這要求賓客放松自己，珍視相處的一分一秒，感受它的獨(dú)一無二。這同時(shí)也要求主人為大家呈現(xiàn)一場別開生面的、意味深長的茶道活動。 □