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忘掉海島，在爪哇“巴黎”游弋

◇ 文 |韓 希

圖片來源：東方IC

當我們談論印度尼西亞的時候，最高頻的詞匯是巴厘島、潛水、沖浪、度假。據(jù)說每年到印尼旅游的外國人里，最多的就是中國人。

從首都雅加達往東南方向驅(qū)車2小時，到達印尼第三大城、西爪哇省首府——萬隆。相比印尼其他旅游城市，這里多了一些寧靜。而時光倒回62年前，這座城市卻發(fā)出了振聾發(fā)聵的聲音——

世界史上第一次由曾遭受帝國主義侵略和奴役的亞洲、非洲國家發(fā)起和參加的大型國際性會議萬隆會議，62年前在萬隆舉行；7天會期，168個小時，周恩來總理兼外長率領中國代表團參加會議，創(chuàng)造性地提出和平共處五項原則，成為建立新型國家關系和國際新秩序的準則。會議后，中國同亞非民族獨立國家的關系突飛猛進，和平外交得以廣泛開展。

而在2017年5月8日，重慶市長張國清會見印尼西爪哇省省長艾哈默德?赫亞萬一行，共同簽訂了兩市省友城關系協(xié)議，這又喚醒了我們對這座高原盆地城市的記憶。游弋在印尼一個沒有海島的城市，會是怎樣的體驗呢？

When we speak of Indonesia, the most high frequency words are Bali, diving, surfing, holiday. It is said that the most people are Chinese among the foreign travelers every year to the target place.

It took 2 hours to drive from the capital city Jakarta in the southeast direction reaching Indonesia's third largest city, the capital of West Java __Bandung. There are some more peace and serenity compared to other tourist cities in Indonesia. Well, time to rewind 62 years ago ，the city has issued a deafening sound.

The large-scale international Bandung meeting, initiated and participated by Asia and African countries the fi rst time in the world history which subjected to the imperial aggression and enslavement, was held in Bandung 62 years ago with a 7 -day session and 168 hours. The Chinese delegation headed by the Premier and foreign minister Zhou Enlai participated in the meeting, and creatively put forward the Five Principles of Peaceful Coexistence as guidelines of the establishment of new national relations and new international order. After the meeting, the relationship had been advancing by leaps and bounds between the Asian-African independent states and China, and peaceful diplomacy has gained its momentum.

Chongqing Mayor Zhang Guoqing met with the governor of the West Java province On May 8, 2017.They signed a joint agreement on Sister relationship between the two cities and provinces, which awakened us the memory of the plateau-basin city with gorgeously geographic features. What is the experience of traveling in a city without an island in Indonesia?

莊園主的度假勝地Planter's Holiday Paradise

萬隆位于爪哇島西部火山群峰環(huán)抱的高原盆地中，城市海拔 719米。萬隆（Bandung）古稱“勃良安”，意為“仙之國”，現(xiàn)名意為“山連山”。獨特的地勢如同天然防御體系，荷蘭東印度群島政府最初計劃將殖民地首府從雅加達遷至萬隆的首因正是基于此。

18世紀，荷蘭殖民者先是在山上建立了茶葉種植園，然后又修了一條從種植園區(qū)到雅加達的路。這里景色秀麗，清靜幽雅，氣候宜人，富裕的茶園主人們喜歡在周末到市里度假，不少女士和商人自雅加達追隨而來。于是布拉加街成了有名的步行街，開著奢華的酒店，餐廳，咖啡館，還有歐洲精品店。人們給萬隆取了個荷蘭名，翻譯成中文即“爪哇的巴黎”。

時至今日，居住在雅加達的人們很流行到萬隆過周末。高地莊園的涼爽天氣、多種多樣的食物、奧特萊斯工廠店、高爾夫球場、動物園都是人們心心念念的地方。尤其是一些馬來西亞和新加坡游客很喜歡到萬隆買東西，因為這里的紡織品和時尚產(chǎn)品很便宜。城市周圍環(huán)繞著肥沃的高地，風景如畫的茶園和果園星羅棋布，成為戶外運動愛好者的首選之地.

圖片來源：東方IC

在萬隆街頭，

一些商販在街邊賣油畫，

好似一個公開畫廊裝點著路旁。

他們把這些油畫當做城市紀念品。

Located in the basin of plateau that is surrounded by volcanic mountains and peaks in the western part of Java Island, Bandung enjoy an altitude of 719 meters. It is known as "Bo Liang An" in ancient times with the meaning of "country of immortals "，now "mountains connecting mountains". Unique terrain acts as a natural defense system and that’s why the Dutch East Indies government initially planned to move the capital of the colonies from Jakarta to Bandung.

Dutch colonists first established tea plantations in the mountains and then built a road from the plantation area to Jakarta in the 18th century. Bandung possessed beautiful scenery, elegant and quiet environment as well as pleasant weather, which drove rich tea garden owners to go to the city on weekend holiday, many ladies and businessmen from Jakarta took the page from them. Therefore Braga Street had become a famous pedestrian street standing luxury hotels, restaurants, cafes, as well as European boutiques. People titled Bandung a Dutch name, which translated into Chinese for "Paris of Java ".

UP to now, people living in Jakarta tend to go to Bandung for the weekend. Highland manor's cool weather, a wide variety of food, Outlets factory shops, golf courses, and zoos are attractions which people are obsessed with. In particular, some Malaysian and Singapore tourists like to buy things in Bandung, because the textiles and fashion products are very cheap. Surrounded by fertile highlands, picturesque tea gardens and dotted by orchards, the citymakes itself the first choice for outdoor enthusiasts.

圖片來源：東方IC

打卡“亞非朋友圈”Punch card in "Asian- African friends circle"

在萬隆最繁華的街道亞非大街中央，一棟全白色外觀的低矮建筑極為顯眼，建筑物前滿是旗桿。這棟擁有近百年歷史的建筑，1921年由荷蘭建筑師沃爾夫?舒梅克設計建造，初名為“社會協(xié)和館”，是荷蘭殖民者和上流人士的聚會場所，日據(jù)時期一度被更名為“大東亞會館”；1955年，為了舉辦首屆亞非會議，蘇加諾總統(tǒng)將其定名為“獨立大廈”；1980年，印尼政府將會議舊址辟為“亞非會議紀念博物館”。

那是一次反對殖民主義、推動亞非各國民族獨立的會議，被視為不結(jié)盟運動的重要里程碑，“萬隆精神”由此發(fā)祥。這場史無前例的會議為中國贏得了亞非國家廣泛的“朋友圈”，這些友誼一直持續(xù)到了今天。

當年會議的鏗鏘似乎漸漸褪去，這里沒有雅加達的熾熱，也沒有巴厘島的游人如織，更談不上驚艷。我的印尼朋友李達寧告訴我，他對萬隆的印象是，當?shù)厝撕苡袆?chuàng)造力，總是發(fā)明些新奇的食物，那里關于吃的生意很火，“可以說萬隆就是爪哇島的時尚中心”。

In the middle of Asia-Africa Avenue, Bandung's most bustling streets, a low rise in a full white appearance is very conspicuous with many flagpoles standing in front of it. This building with a history of nearly 100 years was constructed and designed by the Dutch architect Wolf Schumacher in 1921.Widelyknown as the "Pavilion of Society’s Harmony ", It served as the gathering place of Dutch colonists and the upper class .In the period of Japanese occupation, It was once renamed the "Greater East Asia Hall". In order to host the first Asian-African meeting in 1955, President Sukarno named the building"Plaza Merdeka". In 1980 the Indonesian government changed it into "Asia-Africa Conference Memorial Museum."

The Bandung Conference was an important milestone in the fight against colonialism and the promotion of national independence of Asian and African countries, which marked the beginning of non-aligned movement and the Bandung Spirits advocated. This unprecedented meeting made for China to enlarge the “friends circle” of the Asian and African countries, whose friendships have continued to this day.

The sonorous voice and spectacle scene seem to gradually fade away in people’s memory. Without Jakarta's hot weather and an ocean of visitors in Bali,even the amazing attractions, Bandung enjoys its outstanding excellence in other aspects. My Indonesian friend Li Daning told me his impression of Bandung is that the locals are very creative by frequently inventing some novelty food, where the catering industry is very hot. “It can be said that Bandung is the fashion center of Java.”

“遠在天邊”近在眼前As far as the horizon, As near as your eye.

萬隆既然是“爪哇的巴黎”，那么到了萬隆，想必自會念及帶有幾分神秘色彩的爪哇文化。爪哇，即爪哇島，在行政上由萬丹、西爪哇、中爪哇、東爪哇三個省和大雅加達首都、日惹兩個特區(qū)組成。古代東南亞古國爪哇國正坐落于此。許多文學作品里倒是時常提到它，比如，《水滸傳》里寫“那怒氣直鉆過爪哇國去了”，意指遠在海外，迷迷茫茫，進而引申遙遠虛無之處，“九霄云外”。

印尼是一個多民族國家，在印尼300多個民族中，人口最多的是爪哇族。爪哇人追求內(nèi)外一致的高雅，擁有忠誠踐行義務職責的敏感內(nèi)心。

在爪哇，有一種獨特的戲劇型式——哇揚皮影偶戲（Wayang Kulit），被聯(lián)合國教科文組織列為人類非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。在哇揚劇目中，人們看到曠世的征戰(zhàn)，英雄的犧牲，人性的矛盾，凄美的愛情，濃縮塑造了一個多彩而和諧的爪哇社會。哇揚塑造了一位可謂顛覆英雄形象的角色瑟瑪爾（Semar），長相滑稽搞笑且充滿矛盾，卻被視為保護神。男主人公一路上遭遇各種危險，因為有瑟瑪爾的保護，總能化險為夷；當主角過于激進、沖動，瑟瑪爾出面制止，避免他犯錯；英雄傷心難過，瑟瑪爾就講各種笑話哄他開心；英雄孤獨無助，瑟瑪爾始終耐心陪伴。瑟瑪爾的“人設”符合了爪哇哲學：內(nèi)在遠比外在重要；但求付出不問回報；永遠心懷敬畏之心。

忘卻巴厘島風光，踏上西爪哇省，尋近現(xiàn)代史的里程碑，品專注內(nèi)在的高雅，不失為一次走心的印尼之行。

Since it has the reputation of "Paris of Java ",Bandung presumably is invested with a somewhat mysterious Java culture. Java, that is, the island of Java, administratively consists of the Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java the three provinces and the capital of Greater Jakarta, Yogyakarta the two special zones. The ancient kingdom of Java in Southeast Asia is located here which is frequentlymentioned in many literary works, for example,Water Margin reads "that anger straight runs to the Java country," which means it is far away overseas,transience mystery and at sea.

Indonesia boasts of a multi-ethnic country. The largest population is the Javanese among more than 300 ethnic groups. Javanese pursuits the elegance from both inside and outside with highly loyalty toperform the duty.

WayangKulit is an unique type of drama in Java,which is listed as a human intangible cultural heritage by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. In the repertoires of WayangKulit, people can have an eye feast on the masterly battle, heroic sacrifice, human contradictions,poignant love，which shape a colorful and harmonious Java society in a concentrate form . WayangKulit shaped a role that can be described as subversive heroic image —Semar who looks funny with contradictions. However he was regarded as the protection of God. The hero has suffered all sorts of dangers on the way and can always head off a danger with the protection of Semar. When the protagonist presents overly radical and impulsive, Sermar came forward to prevent him from mistakes; when sad, Sermar gave out a variety of jokes to amuse him; when lonely and helpless, Sirmar always presented enough patience to accompany. The role of Sermar conforms to the philosophy of Java: Inner heart is much more important than the outside; serve others silently without expecting anything in return; regard everything with awe forever.

Forget the scenery of Bali, set foot on West Java province, and find the milestone of modern history.The trip to Indonesia will give you a deep travel not only to the local place, but also to your inner heart.

Forget the island and admire “Paris of Java”

Article | Han Xi