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        古河回歸

        2016-12-21 05:32:04尚晉
        世界建筑 2016年12期
        關(guān)鍵詞:聚居區(qū)

        古河回歸

        Te River Returns

        摩洛哥帝國(guó)城市非斯的阿拉伯聚居區(qū)是一處聯(lián)合國(guó)教科文組織(UNESCO)世界遺產(chǎn)地。然而每況愈下的環(huán)境威脅著這一令世人注目的殊榮?;謴?fù)聚居區(qū)這條古老的脈搏,將使污染嚴(yán)重、不見(jiàn)天日的非斯河讓這一歷史悠久的衰退之心重?zé)ㄉ鷻C(jī)。

        水即是生命——就是如此簡(jiǎn)單。當(dāng)這種珍貴的資源陷入短缺時(shí),人們就會(huì)對(duì)它的價(jià)值產(chǎn)生尤為深刻的認(rèn)識(shí),而這正是馬格里布沙漠的情況?!八俏覀兾幕闹行囊亍!蹦β甯缃ㄖ煱R扎·沙烏尼解釋道。的確,由于水象征的純凈在宗教生活中發(fā)揮了舉足輕重的作用,以至于水井或噴泉成了非斯大部分住宅的特征。對(duì)于許多以這個(gè)摩洛哥北部城市為家的人來(lái)說(shuō),再?zèng)]有什么比潺潺流水更悅耳的聲音了。

        建在水上

        非斯城選址在一條大河肥沃的谷地中絕非偶然?!癕edinat Fas”是伊德里斯一世于789年在右岸創(chuàng)建的。20年后阿利亞在左岸建成。中世紀(jì)期間,這兩座城市合為一座生機(jī)勃勃的大都市,并一直快速發(fā)展。

        朝代幾經(jīng)更迭——伊德里斯王朝、馬林王朝、阿拉維王朝——非斯一直是王朝的都城,與拉巴特、馬拉喀什和梅克內(nèi)斯并稱帝國(guó)四大城市。直至1912年法國(guó)人到來(lái),首都才遷至拉巴特,1956年獨(dú)立之后一直延續(xù)至今。

        雖然是出于實(shí)際考慮而進(jìn)行的整治,但給非斯帶來(lái)的效果意義重大——這座城市曾一度喪失它的經(jīng)濟(jì)和政治地位。大量受過(guò)教育的人流向其他中心,作為世界上最古老的大學(xué)——自859年成立以來(lái)一直延續(xù)至今的卡魯因大學(xué)所在地,它在知識(shí)界的聲望也受到了影響。

        作為聚居區(qū)曾經(jīng)的生命之血,今天的非斯被稱為“垃圾之河”。在穿過(guò)聚居區(qū)時(shí),這條河大部分都被藏在地下。

        聚居區(qū)——活的機(jī)體

        非斯河僅有4m寬。但它是這座100萬(wàn)人的城市走向衰落最有力的象征。這過(guò)去賜予生命的河流如今不過(guò)是條排水道,被戲稱為“垃圾之河”。在非斯的歷史中心,即聚居區(qū),情況尤為嚴(yán)重。聚居區(qū)約有300hm2,有伊斯蘭學(xué)校、老客棧、住宅、宮殿、花園和噴泉。大部分都藏于素面高墻之后,這些自在天地中是典型的阿拉伯-安達(dá)盧西亞建筑。1981年,該地區(qū)被UNESCO列為世界遺產(chǎn)地,它的各種精神和文化價(jià)值得到認(rèn)可。但這不是一座博物館。

        2 干預(yù)措施的主要平面/Key plan of interventions

        3 非斯河的衰敗/Desecration of Fez river

        4-6 項(xiàng)目將使非斯河不再遭受污染,并使河流恢復(fù)潛在的公共設(shè)施功能/Te project will stop the Fez River from being polluted by sewage overflow and will allow the river to regain its potential as a public amenity

        7 Rcif公共交通樞紐/Rcif public transit hub8 修復(fù)設(shè)施剖面細(xì)部/Detail section of restorer

        9 Rcif清真寺廣場(chǎng)效果圖/Plaza view towards Rcif Mosque

        在阿齊扎·沙烏尼看來(lái),這個(gè)聚居區(qū)是一個(gè)活的機(jī)體。這些緊密交錯(cuò)的街道煥發(fā)著勃勃生機(jī)。手工藝行業(yè)保持著繁榮的貿(mào)易,尤其是河邊一線的舒瓦拉制革廠。原來(lái)給皮革清洗、加工、磨光和染色的大缸仍在使用,并成為大受歡迎的旅游點(diǎn)。然而,傳統(tǒng)的皮革加工方式早已失傳。現(xiàn)在用的化學(xué)藥劑——鉻等重金屬不可避免地流入河水。但即便在達(dá)到聚居區(qū)之前河水就已被嚴(yán)重污染了。這座城市中心給河水增加的廢水量就是寓言中壓在這頭長(zhǎng)期受苦的駱駝背上的稻草。

        這不僅是流淌在聚居區(qū)中的有毒雞尾酒,還有令人作嘔的惡臭。居民們對(duì)多年的不作為忍無(wú)可忍,終于決定自己動(dòng)手,在5年前用混凝土把河填上。如今只能偶爾遇到看不見(jiàn)底的水和被污染的河岸?!胺撬购邮且粭l老鼠橫行的臭水溝,”阿齊扎·沙烏尼說(shuō)道,“它的狀況根本不配作摩洛哥歷史的寶珠!”

        世界遺產(chǎn)狀態(tài)遭受威脅

        非斯河的衰敗象征著聚居區(qū)整體的衰退。在看似陷入惡性循環(huán)的處境中,大量建筑亟待修繕,而新建筑往往也質(zhì)量很差。公共空間稀缺——20萬(wàn)居民只有兩個(gè)小公園。UNESCO看到了這一情況并公開(kāi)了意見(jiàn),認(rèn)為非斯正面臨著失去世界遺產(chǎn)地位的威脅。

        政府把UNESCO的話放在心上,并作出積極回應(yīng)。在規(guī)劃中,兩座水處理廠將用于城市排污,河道將重見(jiàn)天日,并復(fù)原在聚居區(qū)中的歷史河道。非斯古老中心的生氣將會(huì)再次流動(dòng)起來(lái)。為實(shí)現(xiàn)這一綜合復(fù)興規(guī)劃,圍繞阿齊扎·沙烏尼建立了一個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)。這位曾在美國(guó)留學(xué)的建筑師回到了她出生的城市——“我希望承擔(dān)這個(gè)項(xiàng)目是因?yàn)槲覑?ài)我的家鄉(xiāng)?!?/p>

        非斯是摩洛哥帝國(guó)四大城市中最古老的。它的聚居區(qū)是UNESCO世界遺產(chǎn)地。

        以人為本

        河道的復(fù)興規(guī)劃以及城市更新的相關(guān)策略是同城市規(guī)劃師兼景觀建筑師田島高子(音譯)以及多位專家學(xué)者合作制定的。

        改善聚居區(qū)中人的生活質(zhì)量是關(guān)鍵。這一策略的目標(biāo)是綜合解決城市的經(jīng)濟(jì)和社會(huì)生活問(wèn)題以及河道的生態(tài)。規(guī)劃采用了各種措施,以改善水體質(zhì)量,創(chuàng)造更好的野生動(dòng)物棲息地。人造濕地的引入將調(diào)節(jié)過(guò)量洪水、凈化暴雨雨水、促進(jìn)地下蓄水,并創(chuàng)造更多棲息地。而這一切設(shè)想都在合理的預(yù)算中。

        “今天這條河的水流經(jīng)國(guó)內(nèi)最肥沃的地區(qū),到了這里卻成了從拉巴特流入大西洋的臭泥漿。復(fù)興非斯河不僅有利于我們的城市和聚居區(qū),更將惠及摩洛哥全國(guó)?!卑R扎·沙烏尼解釋道。

        要城市客廳,不要停車場(chǎng)!

        城市尺度的總體規(guī)劃集中在改善區(qū)域水質(zhì)的問(wèn)題上,此外設(shè)計(jì)了3個(gè)關(guān)鍵性的地段尺度的干預(yù)措施。它們的目標(biāo)是同時(shí)提高水質(zhì)、恢復(fù)污染的場(chǎng)地、在最貧窮的地區(qū)創(chuàng)造公共空間,并使經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展復(fù)蘇??傊?,目的在于讓這條河與聚居區(qū)重新融為一體——成為城市基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施的中心生命線。

        為了實(shí)現(xiàn)這個(gè)目標(biāo),第一個(gè)項(xiàng)目就從老城中心的停車場(chǎng)開(kāi)始。“為了重現(xiàn)河流,必須消滅它?!?阿齊扎·沙烏尼說(shuō)道。這個(gè)停車場(chǎng)將改造成一個(gè)巨大的城市客廳,而用回收皮革制成的頂篷將遮住炎炎烈日?;厥盏哪玖蠈⒅瞥晒珗@的長(zhǎng)椅。廣場(chǎng)中心的暴雨塘既實(shí)用又美觀——濱水植物將通過(guò)給徑流供氧使河水恢復(fù)名副其實(shí)的生命。

        游樂(lè)場(chǎng)與植物園

        第二個(gè)主要項(xiàng)目將為聚居區(qū)提供游樂(lè)場(chǎng)。目前河岸上隨意亂堆的垃圾場(chǎng)很快就會(huì)洋溢起孩子們的歡笑。迭落的濕地將改善水質(zhì)和空氣質(zhì)量?;厥盏钠じ锖湍竟さ倪吔橇弦惨酝瑯拥姆绞椒謩e策劃作遮陽(yáng)棚和公園長(zhǎng)椅?;厥盏妮喬ネ瓿闪诉@一構(gòu)想的最后一步——它將用來(lái)創(chuàng)造公園的設(shè)施。

        同時(shí),最后的第三個(gè)項(xiàng)目將通過(guò)復(fù)興使河水的污染地成為一座公共植物園。由于城市的制革廠已遷到新的工業(yè)區(qū),因此就有機(jī)會(huì)改造老制革廠的場(chǎng)地及其污染的環(huán)境。甚至制革用的大缸也將融入這個(gè)概

        10 非斯聚居區(qū)新的公共空間的改善途徑/Procedures for new public spaces in the Medina of Fez

        The medina of the Moroccan imperial city of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However its continuing decline threatens this prestigious title. Remediating the medina's historic lifeline, the heavily polluted and barely visible river Fez, will return to this ancient ailing heart its dynamic soul.

        Water is life – it is as simple as that. But when this precious resource is in short supply, as in the desert lands of the Mahgreb, people are especially conscious of its value. "Water is a central part of our culture," Moroccan architect Aziza Chaouni explains. Indeed, such an important role does the symbolic purity of water play in religious life that a well or fountain is a feature of the majority of houses in Fez. For many people who call this north Moroccan city home, there is nothing more beautiful than the sound of running water.

        Built on water

        Locating the city of Fez in the fertile basin of a large river was no accident. Te "Medinat Fas" was established by Idris I in the year 789 on the right bank. Twenty years later came "al-Aliya" on the left. During the Middle Ages, the two merged into a single lively metropolis which continued to grow rapidly.

        Under successive dynasties – the Idrisids, Merinids and Alawids – Fez was the kingdom's capital, ranking alongside Rabat, Marrakech and Meknes as one of four imperial cities. It was not until the French arrived in 1912 that the capital was moved to Rabat, a move that remained after independence was achieved in 1956.

        Although undertaken for practical reasons, the effect on Fez was significant – the city lost much of its economic and political status. With many of its educated also drawn away to other centers, its intellectual renown, as the site of the world's oldest continuing university – al-Qarawiyin, established in 859 – also suffered.

        The medina – a living entity

        It is only four meters wide, the river Fez. But it is the most potent symbol of the decline of this city that today hosts some one million people. What was once a life-giver is now little more than a sewer. Nick-named the "River of Trash", the situation is especially critical in Fez's ancient heart, the medina. Te medina covers some 300 hectares – it is home to madrasas, fondouks, residences, palaces, gardens and fountains. Most lie hidden behind high plain walls, but these inner worlds represent the quintessential Arabo-Andalusian architecture. In 1981, the area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, acknowledging its spiritual and cultural values. But this is no museum.

        According to Aziza Chaouni, the medina is its own living entity. Tese close-knit streets buzz with energy. Handicraft enterprises maintain an active trade, principally the Chouarra leather tanneries which line the river bank. The original vats for washing, treating, smoothing and coloring the skins are still in use, and are a popular tourist attraction. However, traditional means of working the hides are long gone. Now it is the job of chemicals – heavy metals such as chromium inevitably find their way into the river. Yet even before the river reaches the medina it is heavily polluted. Adding the city heart's quantum of wastewater to the flow is the proverbial straw on this long-suffering camel's back.

        Not only is it a toxic cocktail that flows through the medina, the stench is just as nauseating. Residents, fed up with years of inaction, finally念,而作坊本身會(huì)翻新為皮革設(shè)計(jì)中心。

        11 Chouarra制革廠/Chouarra tanneries

        12 修復(fù)設(shè)施剖面細(xì)部/Detail section of restorer

        13 游樂(lè)場(chǎng)效果圖/View of playground

        這個(gè)項(xiàng)目是同經(jīng)濟(jì)專家一起策劃的,目的在于為城市的皮革產(chǎn)業(yè)抓住各種新的機(jī)遇,并向國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)看齊。過(guò)去關(guān)注的只是產(chǎn)業(yè)加工,未來(lái)在這里建設(shè)的設(shè)計(jì)合作社將提供有附加值的高質(zhì)量產(chǎn)品。

        “我們的目標(biāo)是創(chuàng)造本地的價(jià)值,進(jìn)而提高本地就業(yè)機(jī)會(huì)。”在這一策略背景中的所有建筑項(xiàng)目都是由工匠利用傳統(tǒng)建筑材料和技術(shù)實(shí)現(xiàn)的——現(xiàn)場(chǎng)燒制的粘土磚以及白石膏。其總體目標(biāo)是保證能效并實(shí)現(xiàn)與現(xiàn)有建筑的完美銜接。

        推動(dòng)前沿

        阿齊扎·沙烏尼將這個(gè)項(xiàng)目視為畢生之作:“要做的太多了!我們必須列出先后?!睘榱送七M(jìn)項(xiàng)目、帶動(dòng)更多的社區(qū)參與,她組建了非政府組織“拯救非斯河”,形成了大學(xué)畢業(yè)生、專家和本地商人的網(wǎng)絡(luò)。

        14 復(fù)原類型/Rehabilitation typology

        15 復(fù)原類型效果圖/View of rehabilitation typology

        “這是一個(gè)百?gòu)U待興的時(shí)機(jī)——我們與市政府合作,進(jìn)行調(diào)研,走訪居民,明確他們的需求。”

        “聚居區(qū)中的人是我們不變的中心。我們所做的必須符合他們的利益?!?/p>

        團(tuán)隊(duì)的很多工作都集中在向居民表達(dá)總體規(guī)劃的愿景?!斑z憾的是,很多人還看不到這個(gè)項(xiàng)目的潛力?!庇行┤苏J(rèn)為應(yīng)該回到過(guò)去的樣子,而不是這一策略的目標(biāo):創(chuàng)造息息相關(guān)的新環(huán)境——21世紀(jì)的生活聚居區(qū),而不是僅僅作為古跡的博物館。其他人則開(kāi)始自問(wèn):在人們情愿搬到另一個(gè)城市生活區(qū)、住進(jìn)現(xiàn)代而非傳統(tǒng)的住宅時(shí),為什么專挑這個(gè)聚居區(qū)進(jìn)行復(fù)興。

        在這種情況下,阿齊扎·沙烏尼自己則憧憬著卡魯因大學(xué)從城市周邊的美式校園遷回聚居區(qū)的那一天?!澳菍⑹羌瞬黄鸬氖隆!彼_(kāi)心地說(shuō)。

        走在鋼絲上

        這位建筑師堅(jiān)信該項(xiàng)目證明了這個(gè)聚居區(qū)能夠通過(guò)改造,在綜合城市發(fā)展的框架中保留其文化完整性和經(jīng)濟(jì)價(jià)值。通過(guò)結(jié)合21世紀(jì)的社會(huì)需求與UNESCO保護(hù)世界遺產(chǎn)的決心,這個(gè)項(xiàng)目具有在各地推廣的巨大潛力。許多阿拉伯國(guó)家都有相似的問(wèn)題。它們的聚居區(qū)也面臨著威脅——公共空間稀缺、基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施老化、居民外流去追求更現(xiàn)代的生活設(shè)施。然而,阿齊扎·沙烏尼很清楚每個(gè)城市更新策略的制定都是需要走鋼絲的。她以拋棄老傳統(tǒng)去追求外國(guó)投資的馬拉喀什為例?!罢诳吹劫Y金流入時(shí)就亟不可待地表現(xiàn)出積極的態(tài)度,”她解釋道,“可是,從長(zhǎng)遠(yuǎn)看,代價(jià)會(huì)很大?!倍鷳B(tài)問(wèn)題僅僅是其中一個(gè)方面。

        馬拉喀什的教訓(xùn)在非斯制定總體規(guī)劃時(shí)得到了借鑒?!拔覀兿M@個(gè)聚居區(qū)在21世紀(jì)仍是一個(gè)富有生氣的城市環(huán)境,而不是一個(gè)博物館藏品。我們會(huì)問(wèn)自己這樣的問(wèn)題:我們?cè)鯓幼屓肆粼诰劬訁^(qū)中?如何勸說(shuō)他們不要賣房搬走?”古河復(fù)興,作為這個(gè)項(xiàng)目綜合方法的核心,一直是解決這種問(wèn)題的關(guān)鍵——事實(shí)上,它使一顆衰竭的心重?zé)ㄉ鷻C(jī)。(尚晉 譯)took matters into their own hands, covering the river over with concrete five years ago. It is only an occasional glimpse now that one has of opaque water and polluted river banks. "Te Fez is a sewer full of rats," Aziza Chaouni says. "Its condition is unworthy of this jewel of Moroccan history!"

        World Heritage status under threat

        The decline of the river Fez is symbolic of the decay of the medina as a whole. Seemingly imprisoned in a downward spiral, many buildings are in urgent need of restoration, and what is newly built is often of poor quality. Public space is rare –for 200,000 inhabitants, there are only two small parks. UNESCO is aware of the situation and has made its opinion known – the loss of Fez's World Heritage status is under threat.

        Te government took UNESCO at its word and responded to the call. Two water treatment plants are planned for the city's sewage, the river will be reopened and its historic course through the medina reconstructed. Once again it will flow – the dynamic soul to Fez's ancient heart. It is around Aziza Chaouni that a team has been established to put this comprehensive rehabilitation plan into action. Having studied in the United States, the architect returned to the city of her birth –"I wanted to work on this project because I love my hometown."

        Focus on the people

        Te revitalization plan for the river, as well as a linked strategy of urban renewal, was developed in conjunction with town planner and landscape architect Takako Tajima and a variety of specialists and academics.

        Improving life quality for people in the medina was the focus. Te strategy aims to comprehensively address the economic and social life of the city together with the ecology of the river. Various measures are planned in order to improve water quality and thereby enhance wildlife habitats. The introduction of constructed wetlands will manage excess floodwater, clean storm water, promote groundwater recharge and encourage habitat creation. Yet all this is envisaged within a modest budget.

        "Today the waters of the river run through the most fertile areas of the country only to arrive as a stinking soup entering the Atlantic at Rabat. Resuscitating the river Fez not only profits our city and its medina, but the whole of Morocco," explains Aziza Chaouni.

        Living room, not car park!

        Whilst the city-scale master plan focuses on improving regional water quality, three critical sitescale interventions have been conceived. Tey aim, concurrently, to enhance water quality, remediate contaminated sites, create public spaces in the poorest areas, and revitalize economic development. Above all, the intention is to reintegrate the river into the medina – as the central lifeline of the city's urban infrastructure.

        To achieve this, the first project targets the car park in the heart of the old town. "For the river to reappear, this must disappear," Aziza Chaouni says. Te car park will be turned into a huge living room, shaded from the sun's relentless heat by a canopy of recycled leather. Recycled wood is intended for park benches. A storm water basin at the plaza's center will be both functional and aesthetic –riparian plants will literally resuscitate the river by oxygenating run-off water.

        Playground and botanical garden

        Te second major project focuses on bringing a playground to the medina. Where the river bank now hosts an informal waste dump, a garden of children's voices will soon be heard. Terraced wetlands will enhance water and air quality. Recycled leather and carpenters' off-cuts are similarly foreseen as shade protection and park benches respectively. Recycled tires complete the picture – they will be used in the creation of the park equipment itself.

        Meanwhile, the last of the three projects focuses on revitalizing one of the main perpetrators of river pollution as a public botanic garden. With the city's tanneries moved to a new industrial quarter, the opportunity exists to transform the old tanneries site and its contaminated surrounds. Even the tanning vats will be integrated into the concept, while the workshop buildings themselves will be renovated as a Center for Leather Design.

        Developed together with economic specialists, this project aims to capture new opportunities for the city's leather industry, and align with international standards. Where previously the focus was only on industrial processing, in future design cooperatives offering value-added high-quality goods will be developed on site.

        "Our aim is local value creation, thus enhancing local employment opportunities." All building projects in the context of the strategy are implemented by artisans using traditional building materials and techniques – clay bricks, fired onsite, as well as white plaster. Energy efficiency and a seamless aesthetic with existing structures is the overall intent.

        Pushing boundaries

        Aziza Chaouni sees this project as a life's work –"there is so much to do! We must prioritize." To advance the projects and engender more community involvement, she has formed an NGO "Sauvons Oued Fez" (Save the Fez River), a network of graduates, specialists and local business-people.

        "It is a busy time – we work with the city authorities, we conduct investigations, interview residents, clarify their needs.

        Always the people of the medina are our focus. What we do must be in their interests."

        Much of the team's work is concentrated on communicating the master plan's vision to residents. "Unfortunately many cannot yet see the potential in the project." Some are convinced things should return to the way they were, earlier, rather than the strategy's goal which is to create something new yet still relevant – a living medina for the 21st century, not a museum relegated to antiquity. Others ask themselves why the medina should be earmarked for revitalization when people would rather move to another city quarter and live in modern rather than traditional housing.

        Meanwhile, Aziza Chaouni herself looks forward to the day when the al-Qarawiyin University could return to the medina from its American-style campus on the outskirts of the city. "Tat would be great," she grins.

        Walking a tightrope

        The architect is convinced this project demonstrates that the medina can be adapted to retain both its cultural integrity and economic value within a framework of integrated urban development. By meshing 21st century social needs with UNESCO's dedication to preserving world inheritance, the project has significant potential to be replicated elsewhere. Many Arab countries are experiencing similar problems. Teir medinas are also in crisis – too little public space, decaying infrastructure, residents leaving in search of more modern amenities. However, Aziza Chaouni is conscious that the development of each and every urban renewal strategy entails walking a tightrope. She cites Marrakech as an example where old traditions have been lost in the desire for foreign investment. "Authorities cannot help but be positive in the first instance when they see money flowing in," she explains. "However, in the long-run, there is a high price to be paid." Not least of which is ecological.

        Te lessons of Marrakech have been studied by Fez in the development of its master plan. "We want the medina to still be a living urban environment in the 21st century, not a museum artifact. We ask ourselves questions like: How can we keep people in the medina? Encourage them not to sell up and move out?" Revitalizing the river, the core of the project's comprehensive approach, has been key to answering such questions – in truth, it returns to an ailing heart its dynamic soul.

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