MONTPELLIER – MEDIEVAL MELODY

The French capital Paris is one of the top three most popular tourist destinations in the world and while this romantic city has so much to see and experience, it is also the gateway for exploring the rest of France, such as Montpellier, which is full of heritages and exciting activities. The French enjoyment of life or joie de vivre is something they want all visitors to join in and experience.

Trext & Photos by David Bowden Translation by Madz

蒙彼利埃情迷中世紀(jì)

法國(guó)不僅有浪漫之都巴黎，更有像蒙彼利埃這樣充滿中世紀(jì)情懷的南部城市。從高山到海洋，這座城市日復(fù)一日在召喚著世界各地的人們：“來(lái)吧，享受生命，活在當(dāng)下！”

Roman viaduct. 建于羅馬時(shí)代的高架橋。

1. Place de la Comedie.蒙彼利埃的地標(biāo)之一喜劇廣場(chǎng)。

2. Shopping in central Montpellier.在城市中心購(gòu)物的年輕人。

The warmer weather of the French Mediterranean in the Sud de France lures many tourists with Montpellier being regarded as France's most forward thinking city that especially appeals to design-conscious travellers.

While many contemporary architects have been attracted to Montpellier, what appeals most is that modern buildings co-exist next to ancient Roman structures dating back many centuries.

This part of France is called Midi, and Montpellier Méditerranée Airport is the gateway to a landscape that includes a vibrant city of learning, the Mediterranean coastline and a mountainous hinterland.

Montpellier was established over 1,000 years ago when traders fi rst arrived and the crosscultural exchange ensured that the trading centre developed into a cosmopolitan place plus an intellectual centre with the establishment of France' s fi rst medical school.

Now very much a student city, with half its population of 260,000 below 35 years of age, there's a lively café, bar, street art and music scene that is accessible via an effi cient tram network and bike-friendly thoroughfares. Visitors can hire vélomagg bikes housed at over 50 racks and explore the city and then drop off at any shared bike stand.

一千年前，優(yōu)越的地理位置為蒙彼利埃帶來(lái)了跨國(guó)貿(mào)易，也因此讓它成為了一個(gè)文化包容性極強(qiáng)的城市。法國(guó)第一所醫(yī)學(xué)院在此建立，每年源源不斷地吸引世界各地的學(xué)生，使得這座城市人口年輕化。現(xiàn)在的蒙彼利埃26萬(wàn)人口中，有一半在35歲以下。

游客乘坐電車或是租單車皆可輕易找到氛圍良好的咖啡店與酒吧，欣賞隨處可見(jiàn)的街頭藝術(shù)表演等。

Heritage Landmarks

The expansive pedestrian zone of Place de al Comédie marks the centre of Montpellier and from here alleyways radiate through the historic downtown area. Many are still lined with grand 17th and 18th century townhouses although some have now been converted to retail or commercial spaces.

Head towards Saint Pierre Cathedral and Peyrou Gardens for dramatic views of the ancient Aqueduct Saint-Clement. This 18th century aqueduct transported water for 13km from St. Clements to Montpellier and it's worth visiting especially for those who can't travel to the more famous Pont-du-Gard in the Montpellier hinterland. A market is held beneath the 800m-long aqueduct every Saturday.

The historic area of Ecusson is a pedestrian zone that leads to The Musée Fabre, one of the fi nest provincial museums of Fine Arts in France and with a permanent collection of over 900 works by artists such as Rubens, Veronese and Poussin.

Montpellier also has its own smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe called the Port du Peyrou that was erected in 1691 on the highest land in the city.

1. Alleyways of historic Montpellier.四通八達(dá)的古街小巷。

2. Stream in St Guilhem-le-Desert village.穿過(guò)山頂小鎮(zhèn)St Guilhem-le-Desert的溪流。

文化地標(biāo)

喜劇廣場(chǎng)的步行街是蒙彼利埃的市中心。這里不僅有昂貴的商店，還匯聚著四通八達(dá)的古老小巷。道路兩旁皆是十七八世紀(jì)建成的住房，有些現(xiàn)已改造成小商鋪。

往圣皮埃爾大教堂和貝魯廣場(chǎng)的方向走去，即可看到壯觀的圣克萊門特溝渠。這道溝渠建于18世紀(jì)，長(zhǎng)800米，連接圣克萊門特和蒙彼利埃。每周六，這座渡槽下都會(huì)舉辦集市活動(dòng)。

埃古松歷史區(qū)則是一個(gè)通往法布爾博物館的步行區(qū)。法布爾博物館是法國(guó)最好的地方博物館，永久藏品逾900件，包括魯本斯、韋羅內(nèi)塞和普珊等知名畫家的作品。

1. Street art Montpellier.蒙彼利埃的街頭藝術(shù)。

2. Woman with an umbrella at Maguelone Cathedral near Montpellier.馬格勞那大教堂前撐傘的女人。

Modern Montpellier

While Montpellier has many old structures, grand historic parks and public buildings, it has successfully reinvented itself as a very liveable urban area. Montpellier features several new and iconic buildings alongside its heritage landmarks.

The area called Antigone is a successful example of urban rejuvenation designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Boffi l. In the 1980s, he created a vibrant area that combines riverbanks for recreation and inner city housing together with commerce and retail activity.

French architect Philippe Starck's contribution is 'Le Nuage de Montpellier' with its bubble-like fa?ade that is known as France's fi rst 'infl atable building' with an air-fi lled outer skin. This enclosed swimming pool and fi tness centre is a shining example of Montpellier embracing the future.

Other local and, a United Nations of contemporary, cutting-edge architects including the late Zaha Hadid, Paul Scales (Holland), Massimilano and Doriana Fuksas (Italy), Marc Mimram (France), BIG (Denmark) and Sou Fujimoto (Japan), have or are destined to leave their mark on the city's urbanscape.

These new designs and street art are changing Montpellier into a progressive urban area where the chic and contemporary stand comfortably next to their historic neighbours.

古今相映

在蒙彼利埃，當(dāng)代建筑與古羅馬建筑和睦共存，而安提戈涅的建筑群便是其中的極佳代表。1980年代，西班牙建筑師里卡多·波菲爾在此打造了一個(gè)宜居區(qū)域，在河堤邊建造娛樂(lè)設(shè)施，與主城區(qū)住宅和商業(yè)區(qū)相結(jié)合。

其他諸如菲利普·斯塔克、扎哈·哈迪德等頂尖建筑設(shè)計(jì)師也在此留下作品。摩登的當(dāng)代建筑與古建筑肩并肩，饒有趣味。

Hilly Hinterland

Head inland especially to visit the famous Roman aqueduct and UNESCO World Heritage Site called the Pont-du-Gard. At 49m-high, this ancient Roman aqueduct across the Gardon River was part of the 50km-long water supply line to the city of Nimes and is the highest of all Roman aqueducts as well as being one of the best preserved. Montpellier too was once supplied by water from the mountains via an ancient Roman aqueduct.

While built 1,900 years ago the Pont-du-Gard was erected with such precise engineering know-how that the gradient is just 2.5cm along its 305m length (the average gradient along the entire aqueduct is 24cm/ kilometre). Facilities at the heritage site are excellent with an informative visitors' centre, souvenir shop and a gastronomic restaurant called Les Terrasses ideally located in a heritage building along the riverbank and with panoramic views of the aqueduct.

Nearby, Arles and Nimes also have many ruins from the Roman era and the historic and picturesque alleyways of St. Guilhem-le-Desert village on the banks of the Gellone River are well worth exploring on foot. Wedged at the base of a dramatic ravine this medieval village and UNESCO heritage site dates back some 1,200 years with the abbey in the middle of the village being one of the main reasons many tourists venture here.

Pézenas is another town to explore with its old quarter that dates back over a 1,000 years but which became an important centre of trade in the Middle Ages. The 18th century was a golden era for architecture in the town with prominence given to new ramparts, wrought iron balconies, decorations, winding staircases and courtyards.

Pézenas is also famous for its Les Petits Patés de Pézenas (warm mince pies), berlingots (sweets) and a Saturday morning organic market.

The country estate of Domaine de Clos in nearby Beaucaire makes a beautiful farmhouse base to explore Montpellier's hinterland. Each of the 18 rooms, suites or apartments in this boutique establishment is individually decorated with the family's antiques and curios. Its expansive Mediterranean gardens of Cypress Pines, grapevines, palms and olive groves provide the ideal setting to relax after a day's sightseeing.

UNESCO World Heritage Site Pont de Gard.建于1900年前的嘉德水道橋。

隱世山城

朝內(nèi)走，可見(jiàn)著名的世界文化遺產(chǎn)——嘉德水道橋。這座49米高的橋橫跨嘉德河，是羅馬水道中最高、保存最好的一條。

附近的阿爾勒、尼姆和佩澤納小鎮(zhèn)同樣留存了不少羅馬時(shí)代的遺跡。18世紀(jì)是佩澤納的建筑的黃金發(fā)展時(shí)期，游客可步行慢慢欣賞那個(gè)年代特有的城墻、陽(yáng)臺(tái)和旋梯等。這里的肉餡餅和透明硬糖格外出名，而周六早晨的有機(jī)市場(chǎng)更是不容錯(cuò)過(guò)。

Marina La Grande Motte. 拉格朗德默特碼頭。

海濱樂(lè)園

拉格朗德默特正對(duì)地中海，因其常年溫和的氣候和豐富的水上、陸上娛樂(lè)設(shè)施聞名，是南法最吸引人的海邊度假區(qū)。

海邊建筑的周圍皆是濕地和金字塔風(fēng)格的高爾夫球場(chǎng)，與岸邊的游艇形成鮮明對(duì)比。除了高爾夫以外，游客還可在此騎馬、打網(wǎng)球、游泳等。

Mediterranean Playground

La Grande Motte fronting the Mediterranean Sea is one of southern France's most alluring coastal resort destinations that offers mild, year-round weather and varied recreational activities both on the land and sea. This commune in Hérault Department is close to Montpellier and is a neighbour to the commune of Le Grau du Roi/Port Camargue.

The La Grande Motte development is another fi ne example of planned urban living. Located on the edge of the Camargue between lakes and the sea, its development in the 1960's and 1970's was an ambitious plan by avant-garde architect Jean Balladur to convert underutilised coastal dunes into an expansive seaside resort for everyone to enjoy.

The master plan of 750ha incorporates 300ha of wetlands and the green city landscaping that was laid out by Pierre Pillet has stood the test of time.

Coastal buildings surrounded by wetlands and golf courses are unique in that they replicate Mexican pre-Columbian pyramids and contrast with the fl otilla of yachts moored at the several marinas situated along the coast.

It's too far to travel and not sail on the Mediterranean Sea, especially when there are catamaran operators like the jovial Alain Petit-Etienne who charters his catamaran for short trips from La Grande Motte to neighbouring La Grau du Roi/Port Camargue or to more distant parts.

On the land, golf on the 42-hole Golf de Grande Motte attracts many visitors. Partly designed by celebrated golf course designer Robert Trent Jones, his efforts are best enjoyed on the 18-hole Flamants Roses (Pink Flamingos) course named after the famous birds that can be seen on most of the wetlands throughout the region. Many golfers associate the layout with that of a Florida-styled course because of its fi ne sculpturing.

Other sporting facilities in La Grande Motte include swimming at an aquatic centre, horse-riding, tennis and swimming along several private beaches.

Creative Cuisine and Versatile Vines

Another enticing reason to visit the south of France is to enjoy the wines produced in the twin regions of Languedoc and C?tes du Roussillon often referred to by the old name of Midi. Grapevines were fi rst planted here by Greek settlers over 2,500 years ago and now the region is considered one of France's most dynamic and the one that has adopted innovation with the planting of new and improved grape varieties. France's largest wine region champions technological innovation from local and international winemakers.

Around Montpellier, the rolled-pebble Rh?ne Valley terrior is all important while the vines in other vineyards such as Compagnons de Maguelone are tempered by Mediterranean breezes. This organic winery adjoins Maguelone Cathedral and it's possible to sample and buy white, red and Rosé wines produced from vines surrounding this tenth century place of worship.

Sample these and other wines and enjoy the creative cuisine at the nearby beachfront Carré Mer along Plage de Maguelone which is an innovative‘pop-up' restaurant that opens every summer and is then dismantled for winter. Another possibility is to dine in Le Yacht Club at La Grande Motte which specialises in seafood.

In Montpellier, Chef Chapon at Tamarillos Restaurant incorporates fl owers and fruit in dishes such as his signature cod served with fi ne herbs.

Seafood with Maguelone Rosé Languedoc. 葡萄酒配海鮮。

美酒佳肴

朗格多克和魯西龍的葡萄酒是人們來(lái)南法的其中一個(gè)重要原因。2500年前，希臘移居者在此種下葡萄藤，這個(gè)地方后來(lái)被認(rèn)為是法國(guó)最適合種植葡萄和改良葡萄品種的地區(qū)。

在Carré Mer海濱，有一家夏天才營(yíng)業(yè)的“彈出式”餐館，游客可在此品酒，享受當(dāng)?shù)鬲?dú)具創(chuàng)意的菜品，也可選擇去拉格朗德默特的游艇俱樂(lè)部品嘗海鮮。