畬族是一個(gè)具有千年歷史的少數(shù)民族，一千多年來，勤勞、勇敢、智慧的畬族人不斷繁衍、生息，形成了自己獨(dú)具特色的民族文化，尤其是在服裝、發(fā)式、頭飾等各方面形成了自己特有的風(fēng)格，刻上了畬族獨(dú)特的烙印，當(dāng)我邁入浙江景寧畬族自治縣，當(dāng)即被畬族的美麗震撼了。

畬族的節(jié)日慶典，是畬族人勞動(dòng)生活和文化的集中寫照，畬族的許多節(jié)日慶典，大都是人們對(duì)神靈的膜拜，對(duì)民族英雄的景仰，對(duì)男耕女織生活的向往。如今，畬族與漢人往來頻繁，逐漸淡化了一些民族特征，但每逢重大節(jié)日，喜慶的畬族人依舊會(huì)穿上傳統(tǒng)的服裝，帶上別具特色的頭飾，配上銀片、珠寶等飾物，向世人展示畬族人獨(dú)特的審美意識(shí)和悠久的歷史文化底蘊(yùn)。

畬族婦女們不分季節(jié)都穿短褲、裹綁腿、腰間束彩色條帶；男子的裝束一般穿著色麻布圓領(lǐng)、大襟短衣、短褲，冬天穿沒有褲腰的棉套褲，老年男子則扎黑布頭巾，外罩背褡。這些穿著其共同特點(diǎn)是上衣有許多的刺繡，衣領(lǐng)、大襟、袖口上有各色圖案，而且圖案紋樣大都選用祥瑞喜慶的題材，表現(xiàn)出畬族人對(duì)圖騰的崇拜和追求。

令畬族人驕傲的刺繡工藝，很早就被載入了書籍。李調(diào)元《南越筆記》曾載：“女初嫁，垂一繡袋”，后來隨著畬族人手藝的不斷進(jìn)步，刺繡工藝已發(fā)展到繡帳額、枕面、圍腰、衣領(lǐng)、袖口、裙邊、鞋面、扇心、女子綁腿和圍涎、圍項(xiàng)、童帽、肚兜等生活衣著用品。這些繡品首先看重厚實(shí)耐用，在藝術(shù)上推崇吉祥的圖案，婉約的畬族姑娘很諱忌兇惡殘暴的圖像，講究形象完整，避免殘缺。繡品中的藝術(shù)形象經(jīng)過概括、夸張、抽象，使其有別于自然原型，色塊對(duì)比醒目，富有樸中見真、拙中見善、陋中見美的情趣。

畬族的發(fā)式、頭飾都帶有很濃的民族特色和風(fēng)情。畬族少女通常將頭發(fā)盤梳在頭頂上，形成一個(gè)螺髻，上束紅色絨線，透露出少女青春的氣息，但最獨(dú)特的裝束則是畬族婦女的“狗頭冠”，雖然其形式因地域或姓氏的不同而各有差異，然而結(jié)構(gòu)非常相似，都分成“狗頭”、“狗身”、“狗尾”三部分，婦女裝束“狗頭冠”，那是對(duì)其祖先盤瓠的紀(jì)念。

畬族的婚禮也很有講究。在古老的婚禮上新娘頭戴鳳冠，身披霞帔，宛如神仙妃子。畬族所謂鳳冠是一種用竹殼做的尖帽，上面的配飾有銀牌、銀鈴、紅布，插有銀簪，垂著串珠等飾物，佩戴時(shí)用帶子束在發(fā)髻上，后面還垂有四條長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的紅飄帶，前面有一排銀質(zhì)的小人兒墜在額前，整個(gè)造型如同一只鳳凰，故稱鳳冠。新娘的服飾也很特別，戴笄、穿花邊衫、扎以攔腰，并在服飾和圍裙上繡滿各種彩色花紋，鑲上金絲銀線，再配上花鞋，形成整體裝束，這就是畬族姑娘的“鳳凰裝”。關(guān)于鳳凰裝的來歷，最普遍的一個(gè)傳說依然與畬族的始祖盤瓠有關(guān)：相傳盤瓠王因平番有功，高辛帝把自己的女兒三公主嫁給他，成婚時(shí)帝后給女兒戴上鳳冠，穿上鑲著珠寶的鳳衣，祝福她像鳳凰一樣給生活帶來祥瑞。后來三公主有了兒女，也把女兒打扮得像鳳凰一樣。從此，畬家女便以穿鳳凰裝示意吉祥。畬族在整個(gè)婚娶過程中，還以唱歌貫徹始終。從婚嫁迎娶開始，新郎及雙方親人得先后唱《攔門歌》《開門歌》《接親歌》《脫草鞋》《對(duì)盞歌》《嫁女歌》等等，直到山歌繚繞中新娘和新郎同去婆家才算婚禮結(jié)束。

畬族人在一千多年的歷史變遷中留下來的這些風(fēng)俗、傳統(tǒng)工藝和民族文化，經(jīng)過千年歲月洗煉又悄然滲入到了現(xiàn)代生活中。在浙江景寧畬族自治縣，我有幸看到畬鄉(xiāng)人不帶修飾的生活場(chǎng)景，勤勞樸實(shí)的畬族姑娘們時(shí)而低頭勞作，時(shí)而引吭高歌，優(yōu)美的身姿穿梭于群山間，悠揚(yáng)的山歌不絕于耳畔，這是畬族姑娘的日常生活，更是千年的文化藝術(shù)傳承，你無論用什么樣的筆觸，都無法描寫和表達(dá)這種特有風(fēng)俗文化之美!

She Ethnic Minority in Jingning

By Qian Liqing

The She people are an ethnic minority with a history over a millennium. In addition to valor， industriousness and intelligence， they have also developed a distinct style in costume， hairdo and headgear. I noticed the uniqueness when I came to Jingning County in southern Zhejiang where the ethnic minority lives in compact communities.

Festivals and celebrations in the She tradition fully embody the ethnic group’s lifestyle and custom. Celebrations are held to worship gods and heroes， and express best wishes for a simple ideal life in which men farm and women do house chores.

Frequent contacts with the Han people in their neighborhoods have inevitably diluted some ethnic features of the She people. They do not look very special in everyday life， but on important gatherings， they shine after donning ethic garments and headgears.

The She ethnic women wear， among other things， short pants， leg wrappings and a colored sash all the year round. Men sport short trousers and round-neck jackets. In winter， men put on padded trousers without the waist part. Old men use a black headband and wear a waistcoat. All the jackets have one thing in common: the collar， fronts and cuffs display lavishly embroidered patterns to celebrate happiness and good luck. The designs reflect the minority people誷 homage to their ancient totems.

They take huge pride in their embroidery art， which is honorably mentioned in historical documents. The ethnic traditional embroidery has evolved over centuries. Nowadays， pillows， bed curtains， garments， skirts， shoes， fans， leg wrappings， hats， and bellybands are all places to show off embroidery. Women give first priority to durability in making important embroidery. Designs on embroidery signify good luck and happiness. Young girls avoid using ferocious images in embroidery and they prefer full images to incomplete ones. Done in colors that are in salient contrast， embroidered images depend on summary， exaggeration， and abstraction to embody a simple and unpretentious style.

The She women wear unique hairdos and headgears. Young girls often make their long hair into a tight bun on the top of the head， fastened with a red piece of wool cord. The most exceptional hairdo is in the shape of a dog. Different villages and people with different surnames may display different dogs， but you can always see the head， the body and the tail of a dog in a hairdo. The dog-shaped hairstyle is in memory of the common ancestor of the She ethnic people.

A bride’s phoenix cap is always a great eye-catching attraction at a traditional She wedding. The name suggests a phoenix image: the pointed bamboo cap features a great variety of adornments such as silver spangles and bells， red fabric pieces， silver hairpins and stringed pearls. The cap is fastened on the hair bun. Four slender and long red ribbons dangle from the rear edge of the cap and a string of tiny silver human figurines suspends from the front edge. The bride also wears a wedding gown with decorated laces and embroidered patterns in golden and silver threads.

The bridal costume is known as the phoenix garment， presumably dating back to Pan Gu， presumably the first ancestor of the She ethnic people. According to the ancient legends about the first ancestor of the She people， the emperor married his third daughter to Pan Gu for his significant role in a great military victory. In that wedding， the bride was dressed as a phoenix， thus starting the millennium-long tradition.

A traditional She wedding is always a gala of songs. People sing a set of songs to mark each step of the ceremony until the newlyweds leave for the house of the groom’s parents.

The millennium-long tradition of the She ethnic people is characterized by its ethnic art， culture and custom. Jingning County in southern Zhejiang is home to the She ethnic people where they live true to their past and their dreams of the future.

(Translated by David)