陳利生
浙江臨安昌化當?shù)亓鱾饕痪湓挘骸靶⌒〔h,大大河橋鎮(zhèn)?!绷┻^河橋鎮(zhèn),河水無聲地流淌著。如今,鎮(zhèn)上的人們依然過著依山而作、傍水而息的平靜日子。但那沉淀在歲月深處的繁華,卻成為河橋歷史中抹不去的絕色風情。
“三千舟船泊古埠,舷歌對唱鬧浙西”。這里,曾經(jīng)商賈云集,酒旗招展,碧波秀水之上,曾駛過胡雪巖龐大的船隊;這里,曾是徽州直通杭州的水路碼頭,商船競發(fā),帆影如云,有“浙西秦淮”之美譽;這里,作為浙西北抗戰(zhàn)的大后方,曾經(jīng)撐起一個安寧的世外桃源……這就是作為省級歷史文化保護區(qū)的河橋古鎮(zhèn)。
出杭州,沿杭徽高速一路向西,約80公里至昌化,再南行8公里,便來到了這座山環(huán)水繞、綠樹掩映的江南古鎮(zhèn)。婉約的柳溪,古樸的老街,遠離塵世喧囂,透出老鎮(zhèn)的寧靜與素雅……閑步在河橋老街,或是鉆進小弄,總能與一個個歷史的印記“偶遇”。那曾經(jīng)的滄桑與繁華,猶如泛黃的憧憧影像,接踵而至,卻歷久彌新。
比縣城還牛的小鎮(zhèn)
河橋古鎮(zhèn)位于杭州臨安,因河多橋多而得名。境內(nèi)自然物產(chǎn)豐富,生態(tài)環(huán)境優(yōu)美,擁有柳溪江漂流、瑞晶石花洞兩個國家AAAA級景區(qū),是一方富麗奇特的寶地。
昌化當?shù)亓鱾饕痪湓挘骸靶⌒〔h,大大河橋鎮(zhèn)。”鎮(zhèn)怎么會比縣還大?故事要追溯到明朝嘉靖年間。當時的昌化縣名為唐昌,下設四鎮(zhèn)。其中河橋鎮(zhèn)坐落于蒲溪、昌南溪、昌化溪三水交匯處,三溪自此變寬匯入分水江,直通錢塘江,獨特的地理優(yōu)勢讓河橋成為浙西商賈云集的重鎮(zhèn),繁華遠遠在昌化之上。
1200多年前,也就是唐玄宗“安史之亂”時期,有一戶汪姓人家為避戰(zhàn)亂,從安徽出發(fā),扶老攜幼千里輾轉(zhuǎn)流落到了昌化。此時的他們,因一路的奔波早已人困馬乏。就在幾近末路的時候,發(fā)現(xiàn)此地高山環(huán)繞,水土肥美,山川秀麗,一片祥和之景,遂決定在此繁衍生息。
就這樣,一場戰(zhàn)亂竟無意間揭開了河橋千年歷史的開端。而汪家,也一定無法預料到在接下來的歲月中,這個地處高山之中的小鎮(zhèn)會演繹出怎樣的繁華。
到了明嘉靖年時,河橋因“邑水口形勝,商務獨冠唐昌”被列為唐昌四鎮(zhèn)之首。清《康熙志·河橋形勝記》中也有記載:“唐昌之南五都,距縣治之南十五里曰河橋,邑之首鎮(zhèn)也。”河橋也就有了“唐昌首鎮(zhèn)”的名聲。
千余年來,有洪、胡、潘、沈、程等姓氏的人從安徽和浙江德清武康等地相繼遷居至河橋,置地造屋、建橋鋪路、繁衍子孫。一戶戶人家相繼扎根于此,河橋漸漸地熱鬧了起來。后歷經(jīng)更迭,到清代形成了如今的千米長街,以至有“河橋一帶,幾里許,煙火不下千家”的盛況。
如今的河橋,依舊是以清末民初的徽派民居為主,中間夾雜了一些民國時期的建筑,基本保留了古鎮(zhèn)的原貌。老街東西走向,兩頭各有一座城門,城門頭有石刻,上書“唐昌首鎮(zhèn)”,至今在圓洞城門上方赫然可見。一條長街上,彎彎曲曲的街道,高高低低的房檐,鎮(zhèn)即是街,街便是鎮(zhèn)。一條“太平溝”橫亙在時光里靜靜流淌,似乎停留在了千百年前的某一天。
據(jù)《臨安縣志》載,抗日戰(zhàn)爭時期,河橋全鎮(zhèn)有“山船143艘,船民408人,泊舟多時達四五百號”,足見當年水運的繁榮。直到1969年,洪水導致水道淤塞,水陸停航,河橋也逐漸進入了靜寂歲月。
柳溪江穿鎮(zhèn)而過,河水無聲地流淌著。如今,鎮(zhèn)上的人們依然過著依山而作、傍水而息的平靜日子。但那沉淀在歲月深處的繁華,卻成為河橋歷史中抹不去的絕世風情。
架于溪水之上的老木橋,磨得锃亮的石板路,炊煙中高高昂起的馬頭墻,從樓板下伸出的石階,在埠頭上浣洗的村婦,長滿青苔的水渠,精美雕花的窗欞……一幅不經(jīng)雕琢的原生態(tài)江南山鄉(xiāng)風俗圖,正徐徐向我們展開。
排屋門、石板路、太平溝、石灰橋、老店號、木帆船、古城門、河埠頭、廟會、寺觀、古樹、茶樓、酒肆……這些散落在街角的斑駁舊跡,讓河橋老街古風依舊,仿佛可以觸摸到歲月深處的脈絡。
街上嬉耍追逐的孩童、五顏六色的遮陽傘、人頭攢動的游客,與“黛瓦粉壁馬頭墻,回廊掛落花格窗”的老宅混雜在一起,讓人不禁產(chǎn)生一種歷史與現(xiàn)實的時空交錯感。
據(jù)載,民國時期的河橋老街,商鋪林立,有被譽為清末以來第一店的“胡生記”南北雜貨店,經(jīng)營食鹽的“老鹽店”,專營酒類醬菜的“陳德順”,專營黃煙的“余義泰”,藥店“胡德龍”“物育堂”、“惠元堂”等,還有水作坊、燈籠店、鐵匠鋪、轎行、木行等等,不一而足。近千米的街巷彌漫著蠶繭、生絲、藥材的幽香。
一家緊挨一家的店鋪,都秉承著謙恭而守規(guī)矩的徽商遺風,無論掌柜還是伙計,無不溫和文靜,舉止有禮,熱情而不過于拉客,交談而不太多地寒暄。也許是默守祖宗傳承的店規(guī)商道,日子過得安逸而清凈。
如今,這些老字號大都已被歷史湮滅。不過,我們?nèi)阅軓呐砰T院墻、明堂天井、雕梁畫棟等殘存的歷史碎片里,依稀看出當年的氣派與輝煌。
不僅如此,來往此間的商船還帶來了來自西方的身影。1935年,傳教士在這里建造了耶穌教堂,而今仍是鎮(zhèn)上基督信徒做禮拜的地方。繁榮的貿(mào)易,中西交融的文化,讓河橋贏得了“小上?!敝雷u。
戰(zhàn)爭年代的老街故事
緩步于老街的石板路上,你會驚奇地發(fā)現(xiàn),自己的腳下居然隱藏著一條清水潺潺、游魚可數(shù)的水渠。它靜靜地穿行在石板下,每隔幾十米,便露一下頭,開出一個口子。當?shù)鼐用窠榻B說,這條溝喚做“奧溝”,古稱“太平官溝”,現(xiàn)在稱“太平溝”。它從石壁灣緩緩流來,就這樣一如既往千古不變地流淌著,讓街民飲用、洗刷,同時起到灌溉、消防等作用。它還與大戶人家的明堂相連,給家中魚池注入了活水。
穿過街道小弄堂,在背街的南面,沿窄窄的河堤緩緩而行,見到的又是另外一種風景:山巒田野、石堰木橋、沙石游魚、群鴨游弋,濕漉漉的竹筏慵懶地躺在淺灘上。
古老的河橋曾彌漫過戰(zhàn)爭的硝煙。這里曾發(fā)生數(shù)次戰(zhàn)事,留下了中美合作醫(yī)院舊址、浙西三中舊址、抗戰(zhàn)誓師碑、昌南錢糧店板壁血跡彈孔、錢向鈞烈士墓等抗戰(zhàn)文物遺跡。
抗戰(zhàn)爆發(fā),滬杭淪陷,周邊鄰縣民不聊生。唯有河橋因位于群山茂林之中,幾乎沒有受到炮火的侵擾。彼時,大批青年學子隨浙西三中遷來河橋就讀。同時眾多軍隊和行署機構(gòu)在河橋駐扎,更有浙西行署修械廠,為抗戰(zhàn)生產(chǎn)快慢機槍和輕機槍、彈筒和槍榴彈、大刀和刺刀等,并仿照“德國造”“日本造”的做法,全部打上“河橋造”的標記,為小鎮(zhèn)書寫上血與火的一筆。此時的河橋,不僅是浙西北商貿(mào)文教中心,更是軍事中心。
沿著印滿歲月痕跡的石板路走向弄堂深處,可見一座中西合璧的小洋樓。門前有小院圍墻,地上還鋪了菊花圖案的卵石,從形制格局到雕花裝飾,都與之前所見的排門店鋪迥異,自然引起了大伙的興趣。
現(xiàn)任房主胡先生告訴我們,這洋樓名叫“逸廬”,是民國初年建造的,原主人姓陳,河橋人都尊稱他“伯賢先生”,是當?shù)赜忻尼t(yī)生。20世紀五六十年代,許多人都慕名前來找陳先生看病,足見其醫(yī)術(shù)高明。物是人非,今日的“逸廬”被當作了養(yǎng)蠶房。據(jù)說,陳先生在從醫(yī)之前,也曾務農(nóng)養(yǎng)蠶。如此說來倒也頗有意思。
回味著河橋老街的故事,不知不覺間,千米古街已經(jīng)走到了盡頭?;蛟S,要探得古鎮(zhèn)的真顏,并不是走馬觀花就能做到的,需要停下匆匆的腳步,就著柔柔的陽光,細細地咀嚼一番……
“浙西美人河”柳溪江
河橋因戰(zhàn)亂而生,因水而興。
三溪于此地交匯成柳溪江,在小鎮(zhèn)邊蜿蜒而過,獨特的水陸優(yōu)勢使河橋成為盛極一時的浙西商賈重鎮(zhèn)。鼎盛時期,這里是浙西最大的藥材集散地,檣帆穿梭,人來車往。最熱鬧時,多達260余艘的木帆船從河橋中街的楊家埠頭一直泊到柳溪江面上,船只“一”字排開,蔚為壯觀。“河橋有街、河邊有船、河中有排”,是古鎮(zhèn)河橋一幅別致的風景畫。街上隨處可見裝著竹木柴炭的擔子,挑夫們則坐在一邊的青石板上等著買主來問價。剛剛上岸的船工伙計,還來不及擦干腿上的水珠就忙不迭地走進酒店,大碗喝酒大塊吃肉,好不快活。
繁榮的經(jīng)濟催生了小鎮(zhèn)獨特的文化,商船和戰(zhàn)火都沒有讓老街失去自己的習俗。至今,這里還保留著燈會、廟會等傳統(tǒng)的民俗。每年農(nóng)歷七月十五,河橋人便會做“盂蘭盆會”,請僧人做道場,演“目連戲”放水燈。每逢放水燈,老街上一燈接一燈,群燈聚會,鬧得古鎮(zhèn)紅紅火火,令人目不暇接。為紀念五代時杭州太守柯寧在河橋治水的功德,這里每年農(nóng)歷十月十二日都會舉行“廟會”,四面八方的人不約而同來到河橋,進行物資交流,熱鬧非凡。
當蒼涼的往事凋零,成隊的商船漸行漸遠,隱匿在山水間的河橋仍然淡泊而安寧著。
河橋給人的印象,總是離不開水的身影。水是河橋的精靈,水一般的恬靜悠然,水一般的清新溫潤,是河橋最具魅力的符號。
在神秘的臨安版圖上,在森林和群山的環(huán)抱中,汩汩地流淌著一條自然和歷史相互輝映、風光和風情和諧統(tǒng)一的驚艷之河,那就是有著“浙西美人河”之譽的河橋柳溪江。因為她的存在,“九山缺水一分田”的臨安旅游板塊,便顯得綽約多姿、豐潤飽滿,群山環(huán)峙、原始神秘的浙西,才多了一份濕潤、一份滋養(yǎng)、一份靈氣。
柳溪江是昌化溪下游在河橋境內(nèi)一段的別稱,柳溪是因為它南岸連綿的柳相山而得名,全長約15公里。被譽為“浙西第一漂”的竹筏漂流河段位于云浪大橋和雙溪大橋之間,長約3.5公里。據(jù)《臨安縣志》記載:“柳溪江,為邑之眾匯,上下三十里,俗名其上曰小柳,兩石對捍,勢如建瓶而下,中曰柯相公潭,深不可測,下曰大柳,巨石參差,屹乎中流,湍激洶涌,聲若迅雷,仿佛呂梁峽,亦奇觀也。可泛舫通賈貨,俗曰梭船,遇久雨大漲,則莫敢行矣!”又載:“柳溪,沙明水凈,游魚可數(shù),而無飛湍激瀨之聲,潭曰浴仙,相傳為何仙姑浴后澄清而香,故稱香溪?!?/p>
江上的仙姑島曬布巖,又是一個十分神秘的去處。巖壁陡峭,山道奇險,加上長年云霧縹緲,恰似仙境再現(xiàn),恍若夢游天堂。這里還流傳著一個何仙姑架橋的傳說。那方長200米、高80米的巨大石壁,老遠就能看見。游船靠埠,拾級而上,即可見蘇東坡題“曬布巖”三字的門樓?!疤K公題字曬布巖”因此而得名。
穿過登山長廊和林間小道,可在“東坡亭”小憩。亭柱上有一楹聯(lián):“人未放歸東北路,天教看盡浙西山?!边@是當年蘇公與同窗好友、於潛縣令毛國華共游柳溪江時寫下的詩句。
古鎮(zhèn),躺在河邊;老街,流著歲月。河橋的風情,美在她的清淡尋常,美在她的恬靜自然。這樣一座文氣漫漫的典雅古鎮(zhèn),一個未被商業(yè)氣息沾染的風情古鎮(zhèn),誰不愿意多停留一刻?
(本文圖片攝影 許立強)
Ethereal Elegance:A Promenade in Heqiao Town
By Chen Lisheng
The former hustle and bustle of Heqiao, a small town in the western outskirts of Hangzhou (in the territory of Linan), is a colorful montage of business prosperity and scenic beauty. The town was once dubbed the “Qinhuai River in western Zhejiang” and served as a peaceful hideaway in the years of Chinas War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression during World War II.
The driving route from downtown Hangzhou to the town is about 80 km on the Hangzhou-Huizhou Expressway and about another eight kilometers from Changhua toward the south. An aimless stroll in the town ensures endless aesthetic surprises and historic findings.
Heqiao, as the name suggests, is strewn with rivers and bridges. The town has two national scenic areas (Liuxi River Rafting and Ruijing Stone Flowers Cave, the latter known for its spectacular lava landscape).
In the Jiajing years of Ming dynasty (1368-1644) Heqiao was one of the four towns under the jurisdiction of Changhua. The towns location at the junction of three rivers streaming down into the Qiantang River drew merchants from all over the places, making the town a bustling business hub.
The An-Shi Rebellion in the Xuanzong years of Tang (618-907) brought in many war refugees desperate for a hideaway. They finally settled down in Changhua, without knowing it was just the beginning of the prosperity of the blessed land they called homestead. In subsequent dynasties, more and more people came here from Anhui and Wukang for a peaceful life. More houses and bridges appeared. The result was a spectacular view of Qing-style architecture and a thousand-meter-long riverside street sizzling with vendors hawking and smoke from kitchen chimneys. People today can envision the heyday of the town from the stone inscription at one of the two city gates that reads “the number one town”.
The water transport convenience of the town brought in hundreds of boats during World War Two years, according to the .
The nail of the towns coffin was the flood in 1969 that silted up the water tunnels. The towns dizzying colors and glory became dust-laden. Today, as you stroll along the withering arcades of riverside houses, through shady courtyards, you can relive the noise and laughter that was once here. The bustling past of Heqiao is beyond the imagination of todays people.
The towns natural phase-out is probably a good thing for travelers today. A promenade along the banks of babbling streams, through mossy footpaths, passing women busy doing laundry at the quays, and admiring exquisite flourishes on window panes, you feel as if you were time traveling back to the good, old days when the town served the coming-and-goings of visitors and neer-do-wells interacting with local groceries, temples, teahouses, wine places, etc. The voice of the past is still there, real and tangible.
The towns lifeline is a crystal clear canal streaming down as if from the prehistoric times. Walk through the winding alleys southwards, along the narrow dikes, you will find a new view of rolling mountains in the distance, bamboo rafts and frolicking ducks cruising the water.
In the depths of the town, various sites such as remnants of war-time hospitals, schools, and rice shops with bullet holes remind people today of the war flames that were once here. In the years when people in Shanghai and Hangzhou had no means to live after the fall of the two cities, Heqiao became a haven for students, factories and troops. The towns revolutionary past is inscribed into the guns, canisters, grenades and bayonets with the label of “manufactured in Heqiao”.
Throughout its history Heqiao has been thriving on waters. In its prime periods, it was the largest drug distribution center in western Zhejiang Province. The sizzling scene of buyers interacting with local dealers once brought in as many as 260 sailboats berthing on the Liuxi River. The towns custom and habits still observed today include “Penlan Festival”. The locals release lanterns on the water for the mid-summer revelry in commemoration of the flood control deeds of He Ning, who served as prefecture chief of Hangzhou in the Five Dynasties.
Water is the soul of Heqiao, and the synonym of the town. Liuxi River is so cherished by the locals that it is called the “beauty river of western Zhejiang”. The 15-km stretch, nestling at the foot of Liuxiangshan Mountain, includes a 3.5-km section that is ideal for rafting. For the more intrepid, the rafting site here ensures a truly thrilling experience.
Encapsulated in the misty Shaibu Peak is the beautiful legend of a female celestial. On a gigantic rock and at the Dongpo Pavilion, you can see the legacy of Su Dongpo and how the poet was once carried away by the ethereal scenery and soothing peace here.