謝慶

米蘭是時(shí)尚界人士的大舞臺(tái)。2月底，在一個(gè)在米蘭舉行的多民族時(shí)裝大秀場(chǎng)上，兩位華裔新銳設(shè)計(jì)師的作品特別引人注目——他們是Jessica和Kevin。他們推出的品牌JeKe，成為這個(gè)秀場(chǎng)的壓軸品牌。

JeKe品牌的設(shè)計(jì)師Jessica和Kevin是一對(duì)意中混血姐弟，生于意大利。從小耳濡目染，天生就懂意大利和中國(guó)，因此他們的時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)中很好地融貫了中西元素，這種“特別”也成為了一道亮麗的風(fēng)景線，在米蘭國(guó)際時(shí)裝周上大放異彩。

當(dāng)JeKe的Logo在大屏幕出現(xiàn)時(shí)，全場(chǎng)爆發(fā)了熱烈的掌聲。新銳設(shè)計(jì)師Jessica和她的母親華人設(shè)計(jì)師徐月娟跟隨模特一起登臺(tái)。Jessica領(lǐng)取主辦方頒發(fā)的獎(jiǎng)項(xiàng)時(shí)，徐月娟發(fā)表感言。她眼里泛著淚光，有些激動(dòng)。時(shí)光荏苒，如今兒女的這場(chǎng)首秀，讓她想起了24年前她在米蘭時(shí)尚舞臺(tái)的那場(chǎng)首秀。

祖籍浙江青田的徐月娟，憑借自己過(guò)人的才華和勤奮，在高手云集的歐洲時(shí)尚圈贏得了“怪才”設(shè)計(jì)師的稱號(hào)，也為華人設(shè)計(jì)師在歐洲贏得了一席之地。

在業(yè)界，她還有“剪刀手”的美譽(yù)。她曾代表意大利政府在上海世博會(huì)參展;她是美國(guó)前總統(tǒng)克林頓以及眾多意大利政要的高級(jí)定制設(shè)計(jì)師;她是第一個(gè)走進(jìn)米蘭時(shí)裝俱樂(lè)部的中國(guó)女人，同時(shí)也是被俱樂(lè)部第一個(gè)吸收為會(huì)員的華人。該俱樂(lè)部主席大衛(wèi)·墨西拿稱贊說(shuō)：“徐月娟的成功打破了米蘭時(shí)裝俱樂(lè)部的格局，她用自己的智慧敲開(kāi)了時(shí)尚之都的大門，我們?yōu)橛羞@樣一個(gè)新會(huì)員感到驕傲和自豪！”

在中國(guó)越劇中找到設(shè)計(jì)靈感

在出國(guó)前，徐月娟曾在溫州學(xué)越劇。“那時(shí)候看著戲曲演員穿著水袖長(zhǎng)裙，覺(jué)得女孩子穿上古代的服裝簡(jiǎn)直太美了。漸漸地，我喜歡上了服裝，就在溫州專門學(xué)習(xí)了服裝設(shè)計(jì)?！?/p>

在溫州的這段經(jīng)歷，為徐月娟打下了堅(jiān)實(shí)的基礎(chǔ)。

“那時(shí)候，休息時(shí)間大家都流行看日本動(dòng)畫片，像‘一休哥之類的。我都不看，而是去幫人家做義工。我一家一家地去裁縫店敲門，問(wèn)他們要不要義工。我不要錢，只是要去學(xué)習(xí)?！毙煸戮暾f(shuō)，自己的縫燙技術(shù)都是在那個(gè)時(shí)候?qū)W會(huì)的。到了歐洲以后，這些技術(shù)就全部派上了用場(chǎng)。

1990年，徐月娟來(lái)到了時(shí)尚之都意大利米蘭從事服裝設(shè)計(jì)。語(yǔ)言障礙使得她一開(kāi)始只能和華人進(jìn)行溝通。一次偶然的機(jī)會(huì)，一家意大利服裝設(shè)計(jì)公司看中她的才華，聘請(qǐng)她設(shè)計(jì)衣服。從此，她敲開(kāi)了意大利時(shí)尚界的大門。

要得到頂尖品牌匯聚的歐洲設(shè)計(jì)界的認(rèn)可，并不是一件容易的事情。但徐月娟身上流淌著浙商永不服輸?shù)难?，越受到質(zhì)疑，她越要證明自己的實(shí)力。

較勁的女人，爆發(fā)力不可想象。那段時(shí)間，她為設(shè)計(jì)如癡如狂，向當(dāng)時(shí)的未婚夫提出了一個(gè)很“苛刻”的要求：“我要在意大利開(kāi)出第一場(chǎng)秀后才會(huì)跟你結(jié)婚?！?/p>

1995年，她舉辦了自己的首場(chǎng)個(gè)人服裝秀，大獲成功。第二天，才是她的結(jié)婚典禮。那之后不久，她和意大利籍的丈夫創(chuàng)立了一家屬于自己的服裝品牌：Delves-JK。

“Delves-JK是很精致漂亮又很特別的百分百意大利制造?！狈▏?guó)知名時(shí)尚雜志《Rendez-Vous》這樣評(píng)價(jià)Delves-JK。Delves-JK追求100%的意大利手工制作，精湛的手工工藝加上高端面料和嚴(yán)絲合縫的細(xì)節(jié)，使得意大利經(jīng)典服飾散發(fā)出新的光彩。

“我的設(shè)計(jì)里面有東方的元素，整個(gè)又是西方的氣質(zhì)?！毙煸戮杲榻B，Delves-JK曾多次同Louis Vitton、Armani、Dior等一線大牌一起登上《Rendez-Vous》雜志，受到眾多時(shí)尚評(píng)論者的好評(píng)?！昂芏嗤鈬?guó)人說(shuō)，這個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)師的作品確實(shí)有東西，東方西方的元素都在里面。所以，時(shí)尚雜志會(huì)把我的原創(chuàng)作品跟Dior放在一起?！毙煸戮暾f(shuō)。

致力于搭建中意文化橋梁

大約兩年前，筆者在意大利威尼斯與徐月娟有過(guò)一次暢聊。她在米蘭市中心有高端定制的時(shí)尚工作室，但她一年中大部分時(shí)間都是在博洛尼亞度過(guò)，拋開(kāi)世俗的繁雜，她更享受在這個(gè)安靜的地方尋找設(shè)計(jì)靈感。

她的丈夫多納蒂·德?tīng)柧S斯說(shuō)：“我一直很欽佩我的妻子，她一直堅(jiān)持著，為自己的理想和抱負(fù)努力著?！?/p>

天道酬勤，徐月娟多年的努力并沒(méi)有白費(fèi)，她的設(shè)計(jì)得到了眾多同行的認(rèn)可。意大利時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師克勞迪婭·德賽迪說(shuō)：“我一直很欣賞她獨(dú)特的風(fēng)格，將意大利和中國(guó)兩種不同的文化巧妙融合?！?/p>

得益于中國(guó)的日漸強(qiáng)大，中國(guó)風(fēng)開(kāi)始在時(shí)尚界盛行。徐月娟將中國(guó)古典服飾的特色與歐洲時(shí)尚相結(jié)合，這種原創(chuàng)風(fēng)格在歐洲高端定制界大受歡迎。很快，徐月娟成了紅人，她設(shè)計(jì)的服裝迅速躋身于世界高級(jí)時(shí)裝之列。

意大利素有“設(shè)計(jì)王國(guó)”之稱。這個(gè)國(guó)度活躍著約40萬(wàn)華商，他們中的很多人在從事著與時(shí)尚相關(guān)的產(chǎn)業(yè)。徐月娟是意大利華商的杰出代表。

徐月娟告訴筆者，中國(guó)越來(lái)越強(qiáng)大，中國(guó)風(fēng)在國(guó)際上也越來(lái)越受歡迎，歐洲時(shí)尚圈或?qū)⒂楷F(xiàn)更多華人設(shè)計(jì)師。

隨著中國(guó)綜合國(guó)力的提升，越來(lái)越多的華商進(jìn)入并“改造”了意大利的主流產(chǎn)業(yè)，見(jiàn)證浙江人在意大利的崛起。浙江人的事業(yè)在意大利形成了兩個(gè)典型的市場(chǎng)，一個(gè)是面向全歐洲的羅馬華商貿(mào)易中心，另一個(gè)則是位于托斯卡納地區(qū)普拉托市的意大利制造中心。20多年來(lái)，浙江人活躍的商貿(mào)活動(dòng)在幫助普拉托鞏固歐洲紡織中心地位的同時(shí)，還把它拓展成為一個(gè)歐洲的快時(shí)尚中心。

徐月娟說(shuō)，希望能把自己的設(shè)計(jì)理念和經(jīng)驗(yàn)帶回中國(guó)，讓中國(guó)消費(fèi)者更好地了解意大利高端時(shí)尚的概念，也希望通過(guò)她的努力搭建中意文化的橋梁。

Xu Yuejuan： Chinese Fashion Designer in Italy

By Xie Qing

A native of Zhejiang， Xu Yuejuan arrived in Milan， Italy in 1990 and firmly established herself as a fashion designer there in Milan， Italy by staging her first fashion in 1995 and launching the Italian fashion brand DELVES-JK.

She is the first Chinese national admitted into the Milan Fashion Club. Her business designs and makes upscale custom-made cloths for high-end clients including the ex-president Clinton of USA and some Italian government officials. She displayed her brand on behalf of the Italian government at Shanghai World Expo in 2010. Her upscale clothing operation is wholly manually tailored. The custom-made clothes are characterized by， among other things， deluxe fabrics and greatest attention to smallest details.

Two years ago I met Xu Yuejuan in Venice and had a long talk with her. She operates a studio in Milan but she spends most of her time in Bologna where she enjoys serenity and seeks inspiration.

She wanted to be a fashion designer when she was a young teenager learning to be a Yueju Opera artist. “The softness and ethereality of the long sleeves of the costumes really fascinated me，” she recalls. She fell in love with these costumes in the ancient style. She started learning about fashion design. Aware that design was only part of the fashion， she wanted to learn the practical part of the fashion. That is， she also wanted to be a tailor who could turn all beautiful design ideas into real things. So while her classmates amused themselves with Japanese animation films on television in their spare time， she visited tailor shops in Wenzhou to see if these tailors would accept her volunteer work for free. All the practical expertise she learned at these tailor shops helped her in Italy.

After her arrival in Milan， she had difficulties in finding a designers job. As the language was a problem， at first she could only deal with Chinese customers. Then accidently an Italian fashion design business spotted her talent and employed her. It wouldnt be easy for her to be recognized in Milan where top designers gravitate. She worked hard. And her 1995 solo fashion show was a huge success， putting her name on the map of Milan. The day after her fashion show， she married Donati Delves， an Italian engaged in fashion business. The husband adores and admires Xu for her hard work and ambition.

Xus design integrates the elegance of the East and the West. Her brand has been discussed alongside with famed brands such as LOUIS VUITTON， ARMANI， and DIOR in RENDEZ-VOUS， a French fashion magazine.

As China is becoming increasingly important in business， Xu has increasingly added Chinese elements into her design. She makes a difference in the fashion business that defines Milan. As a matter of fact， the Chinese business community in Italy has a population of 400，000， with a great number of them engaged in two business realms. The business people from Zhejiang play a key role in a trade center in Rome and in the garment industry in Prato. In the talk I had with her two years ago， she predicted that Chinese fashion designers would become increasingly prominent in the European fashion industry. She is one of these Zhejiang businesspeople who have helped reshape industrial Italy.

Xu Yuejuan has won professional awards and she has exhibited her brand in China. In February， her daughter Jessica and her son Kevin launched their brand JeKe in a fashion show held in Milan. Both the daughter and the son are now fashion designers， carrying on her mission started in the 1990s.