文／任童心

運(yùn)河是流動(dòng)的文化，古都是凝固的歷史。在歷史的長(zhǎng)河中，有多少歷史留存，就有多少故事傳奇濃墨重彩，絢麗輝煌。有人說(shuō)喜歡濟(jì)寧這座城，是因?yàn)檫@座歷史古都的厚重感。一條大運(yùn)河浩浩蕩蕩從南方奔來(lái)，又浩浩蕩蕩奔向北方，流經(jīng)濟(jì)寧這座城，養(yǎng)育一方濟(jì)寧人。

圖/李捷

行走在運(yùn)河邊上，緩緩流逝的運(yùn)河水，仿佛仍倒映著當(dāng)年的繁華景象：船隊(duì)浩浩蕩蕩，商旅熙熙攘攘，巷弄的叫賣(mài)聲、吆喝聲此起彼伏。站在這里，不會(huì)引發(fā)“大江東去，浪淘盡，千古風(fēng)流人物”的豪情，但回顧起這數(shù)百來(lái)年的舊夢(mèng)，仍令人產(chǎn)生一種歷史的感懷。

濟(jì)寧原為不起眼的濟(jì)州，治于巨野。1150年巨野水災(zāi)，遂移濟(jì)州于現(xiàn)址。元滅金后，巨野水患頻繁，世祖八年（1271年）升濟(jì)州為府治，因濟(jì)水南會(huì)泗、北會(huì)汶，州居其中而獲濟(jì)水之寧，故名“濟(jì)寧府”。此時(shí)的濟(jì)寧，雖為府治，但名聲平平，一般城鎮(zhèn)而已。元代至元年間（1264-1294年），京杭大運(yùn)河全線貫通為濟(jì)寧的崛起帶來(lái)生機(jī)，平平濟(jì)寧由此而逐步走上繁榮昌盛之路。

伴隨著運(yùn)河應(yīng)運(yùn)而生的還有竹竿巷。前店后廠，下店上居，具有濃厚的民族氣息。竹竿巷的五條街，西起任城路，東至順河清真寺，轉(zhuǎn)折向南，止于小閘口橋，恰似“曲尺”型。房屋是順河而建，街道也是順河彎曲。河與街巷之間，有諸多與之垂直的小巷，如清寧巷、永豐巷、打繩巷、清平巷等等，全部通到運(yùn)河岸邊的碼頭。當(dāng)?shù)乩习傩战欣淆垜蛩?。雖然歷史上繁華的竹竿巷如今已消失在歲月的長(zhǎng)河中，曾經(jīng)古色古香的竹竿巷也逐漸改頭換面了，但是仍然抹不去人們對(duì)它的記憶，抹不去它曾給人們帶來(lái)的快樂(lè)。

從街巷南口進(jìn)入，到清真大寺，竹竿巷便呈角尺狀順河拐向西，進(jìn)入紙坊街，漢石橋和紙店街，店鋪鱗次櫛比，在拐彎處聳立的金碧輝煌的濟(jì)寧東大寺，乾隆皇帝欽賜玉匾，并在此留下美麗的傳說(shuō)。玲瓏拱橋、竹器制品、書(shū)畫(huà)古董、茶房酒館、歌樓妓院、三教九流無(wú)所不有，使這里成為過(guò)去最繁華最熱鬧的地方?！叭罩惺匈Q(mào)群物聚，紅氈碧碗堆如山。商人嗜利暮不散，酒樓歌館相喧闐”。從這首詩(shī)中可以體會(huì)到當(dāng)年的古都濟(jì)寧已經(jīng)是一個(gè)繁榮的商業(yè)城市，商賈云集，車(chē)水馬龍。

最讓人沉醉的，莫過(guò)于太白酒樓，歲月悠悠，仿佛還有一襲酒香拂過(guò)鼻尖，讓人回味悠長(zhǎng)，似乎過(guò)去的這一切都是那么如真似幻。如今古樸典雅的太白樓依然靜立在古運(yùn)河北岸。拾級(jí)而上，便見(jiàn)院內(nèi)綠樹(shù)成蔭，古意悠悠。夜幕降臨，游人絡(luò)繹不絕，更是燈火輝煌，吸引著人們流連忘返，真是“登斯樓也，寵辱皆忘，心曠神怡”。

若是下雨天漫游又是一番別樣滋味了。撐一只小傘靜靜地走在古都小巷里，聽(tīng)雨聲潺潺。仿佛在歷史與現(xiàn)實(shí)中間穿行。靜靜的樹(shù)，悄然而立的樓宇，默默無(wú)語(yǔ)的街巷，都籠罩在煙雨之中。一瞬間，你就會(huì)被深厚的文化底蘊(yùn)、質(zhì)樸的民風(fēng)及這雨中美景所吸引。李白曾在此云游，飲酒賦詩(shī)；康熙、乾隆曾在此駐足，題詞作賦，留下眾多民間傳說(shuō)。還記得那繁盛一時(shí)的“任城八景”：“鐵塔清梵”“太白晚眺”“墨華泉碧”“鳳臺(tái)夕照”“灌冢晴煙”“南池荷凈”“西葦漁歌”“獲麟晚渡”。多少文人墨客駐足賦詩(shī)，多少年來(lái)為人們所贊嘆，與“濟(jì)寧北湖”互為輝映，齊放光彩。

沿著小巷走至小北湖，看岸柳婀娜，水光瀲滟，荷花映日，一片“城面青山州枕流、云帆無(wú)數(shù)傍人舟”的美麗景色，若駕舟穿梭于荷花之中采蓮，便能真正體驗(yàn)“魚(yú)戲蓮葉間”的悠然與閑適。北湖中央是湖心島，濟(jì)寧動(dòng)物園也安家于此，綠樹(shù)掩映，自然和諧。若登上湖邊的望湖亭，北湖風(fēng)光盡收眼底。夏夜，小北湖更是人們納涼的好去處，住在附近的市民常來(lái)此處或安適靜坐，或閑庭信步，你能體會(huì)到超脫塵世的靜謐。

濟(jì)寧，與運(yùn)河同生共盛。滔滔不絕的運(yùn)河水，賦予了濟(jì)寧這座古都靈魂，讓這座城市變得靈動(dòng)盎然。

如今，在運(yùn)河兩岸那些煙雨中的樓臺(tái)、清晰可識(shí)的古跡、復(fù)駛的駁船，一切都恍如隔世。那一座座復(fù)建的青磚灰瓦樓舍勾畫(huà)著平和安靜的質(zhì)樸之美，正喚醒著這些塵封的記憶，也喚醒著濟(jì)寧這座城市對(duì)古都文化遺產(chǎn)的傳承與保護(hù)。

編輯／欒小惠

The canal is a culture of mobility,and the ancient capital is a history of solidity. People say that they like the city of Jining because of the weight of this historic capital. The Grand Canal came from the South and rushed to the north in a mighty way. With its passing by the city,the people of Jining are raised.

Walking on the canal bank looking at the water slowly flowing, it seems that it is still reflecting the prosperous scene of the past: the vast fleet of ships, the hustle and bustle of merchants and the reverberation of the cries of hawkers in the alleys.

If you go along the alley to the Xiaobeihu Lake and ride a boat across lotus flowers to pick one, you may actually experience the leisure and comfort of the poem, “fish playing in between the lotus leaves”. And if you get on the Wanghu Pavilion on the lake bank, you will have a panoramic view of the scenery of Xiaobeihu Lake. In the summer evening, Xiaobeihu Lake is a good place for people to enjoy the coolness, while people living nearby often come here to sit in peace or stroll idly. You may encounter some senior citizens with a fan in one hand and a bottle of water in the other listening to and singing snatches of songs when you can feel the tranquility aloof from this mortal life.

The city of Jining was born and developed together with the Grand Canal.The endless flow of canal water endowed Jining with the soul of the ancient capital,making the city lively.