文/王雪芃

○青島東部新城。圖／王勇森The new eastern downtown area of Qingdao

山東綿延3100多公里海岸線，串起了青島、煙臺、威海、日照、濰坊、濱州、東營七顆明珠，這條海岸線上的島、灘、礁、灣、角千姿百態(tài)。每個城市也因各自的“性格”養(yǎng)成了不同的海洋文化。一樣的碧海藍(lán)天、陽光沙灘卻給人不同的感受，沿著海岸線行走，每座海濱城市都值得一讀，不妨采擷其中的青、煙、威、日四市與君共賞。

青島：多面海城的韻味

青島這座城有許多頭銜：黃海之濱的明珠、萬國建筑的經(jīng)典、啤酒飄香的名城、對外開放的熱土……地處山東半島東南部沿海的青島，因常年綠樹成蔭，草木蔥郁而得名，是中日韓自貿(mào)區(qū)的前沿地帶，瀕臨黃海，與朝鮮半島隔海相望。

千年前，青島即為古代海上絲綢之路起航地之一；到近代，青島歷經(jīng)滄桑，是中國歷經(jīng)磨難與自強(qiáng)發(fā)展的縮影；中國改革開放以來，青島迅速發(fā)展成為繁華都市……這些“履歷”讓青島既存留膠東民俗文化風(fēng)貌，又包羅西方近代建筑風(fēng)格，還展現(xiàn)著現(xiàn)代化國際城市風(fēng)貌。到青島來游覽，享受宜人氣候和優(yōu)美風(fēng)光的同時，又可在觀賞中外文化碰撞交融的結(jié)晶中，產(chǎn)生深層次的思索和啟迪，因而具有很高的游覽價值。

除了海濱美景，青島還被譽(yù)為“帆船之都”，奧帆中心景區(qū)內(nèi)不僅有飛帆渺渺的優(yōu)雅，還有冒險鴨、帆船、游艇、海景演出等娛樂休閑項(xiàng)目。當(dāng)夜幕降臨，沿海一線和香港中路的燈光亮起的時候，奧帆中心就成了一道流光溢彩的絲帶。遠(yuǎn)處若隱若現(xiàn)的燈光，如同鑲嵌在絲帶上的星星，近處高樓大廈的燈光背景，點(diǎn)綴著沿海一線的種種風(fēng)光。漫步于此，來一瓶青島啤酒，佐以時令的小海鮮，時而望海，時而呷酒，海面上更是浮光點(diǎn)點(diǎn)，溫存著都市的浮世清歡，體味屬于青島的愜意自在。

而即將在此舉辦的上合峰會，也將為這座城市帶來更多榮耀。

煙臺：山海仙境有寶地

煙臺是中國首批實(shí)行對外開放的沿海港口城市之一，以“山海仙境·葡萄酒城”的美譽(yù)著稱于世。和青島不同，屬于煙臺的這方土地山海相依，煙波浩淼，有幾分脫離俗世的味道。變幻莫測的海象、海市蜃樓的奇觀、八仙過海的神話、徐福東渡的故事為煙臺的山山水水增添了許多神秘的色彩。

八仙渡海在此地，飄渺仙境入夢來。中國古代關(guān)于長生不老的傳說，大多都以煙臺的蓬萊為背景。“蓬萊仙山”“蓬萊仙島”的名號傳頌至今，相傳連統(tǒng)一華夏的秦始皇都曾來此尋求長生不老藥。如今細(xì)想，真正的長生不老藥也許就是煙臺那養(yǎng)人的海與山。

煙臺氣候宜人，冬無嚴(yán)寒，夏無酷暑，年平均氣溫在12℃左右。溫和的氣候醞釀了豐富的物產(chǎn)。來煙臺玩，絕不能錯過那些產(chǎn)自大海、藏于山中的珍品。這里盛產(chǎn)對蝦、海參、鮑魚、扇貝等海貨，有著全中國數(shù)一數(shù)二的海鮮美食，還是著名的煙臺蘋果和山東大花生的集中產(chǎn)區(qū)，紅葡萄酒、柞蠶絲綢、龍口粉絲、萊陽梨、大櫻桃等特產(chǎn)應(yīng)有盡有。

煙臺的海水與空氣都十分澄澈，沙灘十分平緩，沙質(zhì)細(xì)膩，光著腳丫踏在金色沙灘上，任細(xì)浪拂過腳背。風(fēng)吹海成花，海風(fēng)中摻雜的味道，讓人想起過癮的海鮮，淳樸的民風(fēng)，壯美的景色，還有和藹親切的漁家人。

○煙臺海濱。圖／何延海The seashore of Yantai.

○威海海濱。圖／何延海The seashore of Weihai.

威海：游人只合此處老

每每在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上搜索中國最養(yǎng)人的城市，威?？傇诎駟紊稀＿@里的天是澄澈至極的藍(lán)色，干凈得舒暢，陽光灑下來好像不會被任何雜色污染。而到了傍晚，夕陽會把天空染成稀有的櫻花色，整個街道都陷入一種浪漫氣氛里，就像漫畫里會發(fā)生愛情故事的小鎮(zhèn)。

在威海生活，會“被動”養(yǎng)成良好的生活習(xí)慣。這座城市很小，這里的人生活十分規(guī)律，似乎全城都保持了“早睡早起”的默契。但這里并不閉塞，威海是中國大陸距離日本、韓國最近的城市。1984年，威海成為第一批中國沿海開放城市，到2015年又成為中韓自貿(mào)區(qū)先行示范城市。有許多來自韓國的年輕人，會在周末到威海吃喝游玩，交流往來已成日常，開放程度之高讓這個小城掛著幾縷時尚色彩。

冬日的威海又叫“雪窩子”，一到年底幾乎日日下雪。這里的雪不是洋洋灑灑含含蓄蓄的小雪花，是鋪天蓋地，將一切都裹成雪國的大雪，雖然非常寒冷，但酣暢淋漓，一場大雪過后整座城市像被凈化一般，干凈而安靜。

威海的東端，還藏著一個叫煙墩角的小村落，這個看似不起眼的小漁村是天鵝的家園，是聞名全國的旅游、攝影、寫生、養(yǎng)生勝地。每年11月至來年3月間，總有成千上萬千只野生大天鵝從遙遠(yuǎn)的西伯利亞飛到這里越冬。這里人與天鵝和諧相處的景象堪稱奇景，為漁村憑添了無限生機(jī)，也為這兒的海灘添了一道亮麗的風(fēng)景線。

日照：初陽照耀山與海

日出東方而先照——是這個城市的名字。日照也屬于慢生活的城市，在日照清澈的海水邊看過日出日落，會讓人漸漸遺忘大城市是的繁忙，慢慢將心緒和這座城同步慢下來。早上起來看看日出，呼吸一下新鮮的空氣，瞬時身心舒爽。

在這趕海是件很有趣的事情。退潮時，飄搖的水草下藏著很多樂趣。扒開它們，能從石頭縫里發(fā)現(xiàn)不少小螃蟹、小海螺，有的時候運(yùn)氣不錯還能撿到海星。在這里的海邊多待一會兒，尤其到周邊漁家樂住上幾天，每日有陽光沙灘和海鮮，不多時，就會沉浸到日照悠閑緩慢的氛圍中去。

日照在山東的位置很特別，它西靠臨沂，北連青島、濰坊，南接江蘇省連云港。在它的北端，由泰沂山脈和嶗山山脈交匯而成的五蓮山秀麗巍峨，其五座山峰圍合一起形似五朵蓮花，地層古老、山高林密、險峰深壑。山體由各種奇形怪狀的黃色巨石組成，那些石頭給人無限的想象空間，有的像動物，有的像僧人，有的像畫，置身其中，意趣盎然。

有山有海，如此優(yōu)渥的地理?xiàng)l件還讓日照成為了山東最大的綠茶生產(chǎn)基地，此處產(chǎn)出的日照綠茶有“北方第一茶”的美譽(yù)。日照綠茶具有干茶墨綠，沖泡后湯色黃綠明亮、栗香濃郁、回味甘醇、葉片厚、香氣高、耐沖泡等獨(dú)特優(yōu)良品質(zhì)，成為山東人日常飲用，招待客人的首選，這朵小小的茶葉讓日照相較其他海濱城市，多了一抹綠色的人文情懷。

編輯／王天宇

Th e 3,1 0 0 k m c o a s t l i n e o f Shandong links together seven pearls: Qingdao, Yantai,Weihai, Rizhao, Weifang, Binzhou and Dongying. The islands, shoals, reefs,bays and corners along the coastline differ in thousands of ways. Due to their different “characters”, each city has developed a different ocean culture. In the background of the same blue sea and sky, sunshine and beaches, they bring us different feelings. You may travel along the coastline. Each coastal city is worth seeing. I would like to introduce Qingdao, Yantai, Weihai and Rizhao to you.

Qingdao: Charm of a Multidimensional Coastal City

Qingdao has many titles: pearl on the shore of the Yellow Sea, Classic of World Architecture, City Famous for Beer, Popular Land for Opening-up….Qingdao, located on the southeast coast of the Shandong Peninsula, is the foreland of the China-Japan-South Korea Free Trade Area, adjoins the Yellow Sea,and faces the Korean Peninsula across the sea.

One thous and years ago,Shandong became one of the starting places of the ancient Maritime Silk Road; in modern times, after undergoing vicissitudes, Qingdao became the epitome of China going through hardships and striving for development; since the reform and opening-up of China, Qingdao has rapidly developed into a flourishing city…. Such “records” enable Qingdao to retain the folk culture style and features of Jiaodong, embrace the modern Western architecture style,and reflect the style and features of a modern international city. In addition to seaside scenery, Qingdao is reputed as the “Sailing City”. In Qingdao Olympic Sailing Center, there are not only elegant sailboats, but also such amusement items as Adventure Duck, sailing, yachting and seascape performance. Besides, the SCO Summit to be held here will bring more honors to this city.

Yantai: Wonderland amid Mountains and Sea

As one of the fi rst batch of coastal port cities in China implementing the opening-up policy, Yantai is worldfamous for being “Wonderland amid Mountains and Sea – Wine City”.Unlike Qingdao, the land of Yantai has mountains surrounded by the sea and mist-covered waters, with a hint of transcendence. Capricious sea sights,marvelous mirages, the legend of eight immortals crossing the sea and the story of Xu Fu’s eastward sailing all add mysterious verve to the landscape of Yantai.

○“綠水青山就是金山銀山”的理念深入人心。圖／牟軍The idea of "Beautiful waters and mountains are precious treasure" has deeply rooted in people's mind.

Yantai has a pleasant climate, with neither chilly winter nor hot summer.Its mean annual temperature is around 12°C. The mild climate produces rich natural products. If you come to Yantai,you cannot miss such treasures from the sea or hidden in mountains. Abounding in prawns, sea cucumbers, abalones,scallops and other marine products,Yantai has the best seafood in China.In addition, it is a famous centralized producing area of Yantai apples and Shandong peanuts, and has numerous specialties like red wine, tussah silk,Longkou vermicelli, Laiyang pears and cherries.

Weihai: Tourists Ought to Spend Their Last Years Here

Weihai is a small city. The natives live a regular life. All the people in the city seem to keep the habit of quietly“going to bed early and getting up early”. However, Weihai is not a remote city. It is the closest city in Mainland China to Japan and South Korea. In1984, Weihai became one of the first batch of open coastal cities in China. In 2015, it became a Pilot Demonstration City of the China-South Korea Free Trade Area. Many young people from South Korea may eat and sightsee in Weihai at weekends. Mutual communication and contact has become a daily routine.The high degree of openness adds some fashionable elements to this small city.

○趕海。圖／李群Gathering seafood on the beach when the tide is ebbing.

In the east of Weihai, there is a small village named Yandunjiao. The seemingly inconspicuous small fishing village is not only the home of swans,but also a well-known resort for tourism,photography, painting and health preservation throughout the country.From November to March, thousands of wild whooper swans fly to this village from Siberia so as to live through the winter. The harmony between humans and swans can be counted as a wonder.It adds not only endless vitality to this fi shing village, but also a splendid sight to the beach nearby.

Rizhao: First Ray of Morning Light Shines on Mountains and Sea

“The first ray of morning light shines” interprets the name of the city.Rizhao has a special geographic location in Shandong. It borders Linyi to the west, Qingdao and Weifang to the north,and Lianyungang, Jiangsu Province to the south. In the north of Rizhao, Wulian Mountain formed at the intersection of the Taiyi Mountain and the Laoshan Mountain is pretty and towering. Its fi ve peaks look like five lotus flowers. The mountain is characterized by old strata,high and dense forests, steep peaks and deep valleys. It is composed of various oddly-shaped yellow rocks. Such rocks bring us infinite imaginary space,looking like animals, Buddhist monks and pictures. You will have a lot of fun when visiting the mountain.

Rizhao has both mountains and sea.Such favorable geographical conditions enable Rizhao to become the largest green tea production base of Shandong.The green tea of Rizhao enjoys the reputation of “No.1 Tea in North China”.As for the green tea of Rizhao, its dry tea is blackish green; after being brewed,the tea infusion appears bright and yellowish green, smells fragrant, and tastes sweet and mellow. It has unique fi ne quality, i.e., thick tea leaves, strong aroma, durable brewing capacity, and so on, and has become the preferred choice of the Shandong people in daily drinking and entertaining guests. Due to this tiny tea leaf, Rizhao has more green humanistic feelings than other coastal cities.