Text by Lena Gidwani Translation by Emma Xu Illustration by CFP

The Mighty Leaf

Text by Lena Gidwani Translation by Emma Xu Illustration by CFP

Like many things ancient, the history of tea is literally steeped in legend. Whether it's matcha, masala, mint or good ol' milk and sugar, there's always something for everyone to sip on.

Here in the Middle Kingdom, our tea comes served with a mesmerizing tale like no other. Legend has it that in 2737B.C., in the garden of Emperor Shennong, a few leaves drifted down from a tree into a cup of steaming hot water the Emperor was elegantly sipping. As the water turned a delicate shade of green, a pleasant fragrance rose in the steam. The Emperor lifted his cup and tasted...

Five thousand years later, tea is still the world's most popular prepared beverage. But let us get one thingstraight. Regardless of the myths surrounding its historical origins, it is widely agreed upon that China is considered to be the birthplace of tea. In Chinese society, offering a good variety of tea is a sign of respect, featuring in everything from off i ce meetings and house visits to banquets and lavish weddings. Want more tea? No problem. Instead of beckoning wait staff, simply lift the lid of the tea pot and cover half of it. Voila, you'll be served in no time!

If you happen to live in the South, we have a tradition that is worth noting: Always thank the person who serves you tea by knocking your bent index and middle fi ngers on the table. A Qing dynasty custom, this practice originated when Emperor Qian Long decided to venture outside the comfortable conf i nes of his lush palace. Eager to keep his identity a secret, he dressed in plain robes, but not before conf i ding in his most trusted servant. One day in a restaurant, the emperor, after pouring himself a cup of tea, fi lled his loyal servant's cup as well. Out of ref l ex, his conf i dante wanted to kneel to express his thanks. But knowing it would expose the Emperor's identity, he bent his fi ngers on the table to express his gratitude and respect to the emperor.

Interestingly, what savvy tea enthusiasts need to realize is this: all tea is not created equally, even though it all comes from the same plant species, camellia sinensis. Whether it's green, black, oolong, scented, white or compressed, this steamy eastern staple that boasts over 1,500 varieties is here to stay, brewing up a storm and fi lling your mouth and nose with fl avors and aromas like no other. The Turkish serve it hot with fresh mint and heaped spoonsful of sugar. In Sri Lanka, tea leaves are boiled with lumps of palm sugar, white sugar, condensed milk and coconut. The British add a touch of milk and sugar to Earl Grey or English Breakfast varieties, served with dainty fi nger sandwiches and the likes. And the Americans?

These diverse tea–drinking rituals and its history reminds us that tea is much more worldly, signif i cant and pervasive than people appreciate. Not bad for an accidental invention, eh?

COLUMNIST'S PROFILE Lena Gidwani is a resident of Guangzhou for 13 years, selfconfessed networker, magazine editor and an avid writer.Lena Gidwani，網(wǎng)絡(luò)工作者、雜志編輯、作家，在廣州居住13年。