巴塞爾，奢華是什么顏色？

今年的巴塞爾鐘表珠寶博覽會(huì)，比往年多了一絲生動(dòng)，一抹色彩?；蛟S標(biāo)志著古老高端的鐘表界，也在微妙而曖昧地轉(zhuǎn)向新人群。

It is more vivid and more colourful in Baselworld this year. Maybe it also implies that the traditional high-end watch industry is heading in a new direction.

Metallic Blue

Blue is normally regarded as a cool tone. However, in the latest watch designs, blue is blended with the solidity and hard quality of other metals and materials and shows more sense of profoundness and stableness. Different designers choose different shades of blue. Blancpain, for example adapts the classic deep sea blue with popular minimalist dial design, rendering a touch of cool elegancy and mystery. Chopard's new sapphire blue watch uses all blue on its dial, case and strap. The piercing coldness emits from all parts of the watch. The most special one would be the brand new Big Bang Unico designed by Hublot, which is made of transparent sapphire crystal. The wild and sheer design gives a total dynamism. There are also a lot of blue designs in the details. Perhaps this will be more attractive to more watch fans. The Persian blue in new Rolex Cellini Moonphase, the colour of which was then widely used in tempera paintings, is sparkling and shining in Baselworld. The light blue tiny pointers used in Glashütter Originals' new Senator collection renders more liveliness. OMEGA sets out to create a combination GMT and divers' watch fashioned from a single block of blue ceramic. "Big Blue" is driven by the OMEGA Master Chronometer calibre 8906, the water resistance can be down to 600 metres.

Sporty Green

The various changes in functions are also praised by many watch fans, especially some new technologies adapted to feed the needs of sports lovers. In Baselworld, many designers are following this trend. Tag Heuer, who has been closely related to the Olympics since 1920, designed the famous timepiece Autavia. It was the first chronograph that was equipped with a rotating bezel and was once the very first choice of athletes. Now it is matched with a new simple but sporty leather strap to easily match more daily outfits. The Aquaracer collection released its new camouflage versions. This new Aquaracer camouflage has a 300 metre water resistance, polished with black PVD titanium grade 2 sand blasted case to intensify its transparency to protect it from the elements. This timepiece has a titanium grade 2 black PVD sand blasted 60 minute scale, which is the best choice when being under severe environments. The timepiece designed by Certina to warm up in Baselworld is a 1/10 Chronograph with a NATO strap. The NATO strap has been majored in the industry for a long time, but Certina this time uses red and black to give a more classy feel. Cosmic green is the latest colour to be added to the H. Moser & Cie. collection. This audacious green, reminiscent of the jewel tones of the Northern Lights, continues in the spirit of the famed Funky Blue dial which has become the brand's signature. This 44 mm diameter's timepiece has a dial with no logo and features but only 4 main indices, which has proven the authenticity and simplicity of the brand.

金屬藍(lán)

藍(lán)色向來(lái)被看作“冷色調(diào)”，不過(guò)，在鐘表設(shè)計(jì)中，藍(lán)色融合了各種金屬和其他材質(zhì)的硬度和質(zhì)感，會(huì)呈現(xiàn)出深邃而沉穩(wěn)的觀感。而不同品牌在藍(lán)色的選擇中也不盡相同，Blancpain運(yùn)用的經(jīng)典深海藍(lán)表盤迎合時(shí)下極簡(jiǎn)的盤面設(shè)計(jì)，大氣高冷又有神秘之態(tài)。Chopard的寶石藍(lán)主題的設(shè)計(jì)，同時(shí)運(yùn)用在表面和表帶上，凜冽之勢(shì)淋漓盡致。最特別的還有宇舶全新Big Bang Unico的透明寶石藍(lán)設(shè)計(jì)，采用寶石藍(lán)晶體打造，通透的設(shè)計(jì)不乏藍(lán)色呈現(xiàn)的動(dòng)感。除了一些大面積的藍(lán)，細(xì)節(jié)方面的藍(lán)色點(diǎn)綴或許會(huì)更受表迷的青睞——?jiǎng)诹κ康那欣锬嵩孪啻笥泄诺溆彤嬛小安ㄋ顾{(lán)”之亮麗和清澈；格拉蘇蒂的熒光藍(lán)刻度和指針讓Senator系列更具年輕態(tài)活力。歐米茄更再次采用整塊藍(lán)色陶瓷打造全新腕表，創(chuàng)造出一款集GMT與潛水功能于一體的 “碧海之藍(lán)”腕表，防水深度600米。

運(yùn)動(dòng)綠

功能上的變化多樣也是很多表迷的追求，特別是一些結(jié)合運(yùn)動(dòng)需求的設(shè)計(jì)。在本屆展會(huì)上，很多品牌的新品也將設(shè)計(jì)指向這種趨勢(shì)。從1920年起就與奧林匹克運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)結(jié)緣的Tag Heuer，它的Autavia系列是首款配備旋轉(zhuǎn)表圈的計(jì)時(shí)碼表，曾一度是賽車手的摯愛。配以運(yùn)動(dòng)而簡(jiǎn)約的皮質(zhì)表帶，也可以融入各種日常的穿搭。而Aquaracer競(jìng)潛系列腕表展現(xiàn)了迷彩“敢死隊(duì)”風(fēng)格。全新競(jìng)潛系列Camouflage越野腕表防水深度達(dá)300米，表殼覆有黑色PVD涂層，采用噴砂2級(jí)鈦金屬打造，強(qiáng)化其隱形效果，避免吸引敵人視線。表圈帶有分鐘刻度(前15分鐘標(biāo)示每一分鐘的刻度)，以耐刮的黑色霧面陶瓷打造，是身處惡劣環(huán)境下的不二之選。雪鐵納為大家準(zhǔn)備的2017 Basel暖場(chǎng)款是搭配NATO表帶的雪鐵納1/10秒計(jì)時(shí)碼表。NATO表帶已經(jīng)風(fēng)靡市場(chǎng)很久，雪鐵納在配色上選用了紅黑款，相當(dāng)經(jīng)典。亨利慕時(shí)冒險(xiǎn)者小秒針XL PURITY腕表最新色系——宇宙綠，標(biāo)新立異的綠色令人不禁想起北極光寶石般的絢爛麗色，繼續(xù)傳承了“電光藍(lán)”表盤的精髓。直徑43毫米的表盤沒有品牌標(biāo)識(shí)，只有4個(gè)主要時(shí)標(biāo)，極具特色，倡導(dǎo)返璞歸真。

BASELWORLD,THE COLOUR OF LUXURY

Text &Translation by Bian Jiajin Photos by CFP&Baselworld