Ping Ma, Gang Huo

Zhejiang OSM Biology Co., Ltd., China

Wenqiang Lin

Shanghai Criteria Methodology of Cosmetics Co., Ltd., China

As a “skin care cream” initially, BB cream played an important role of concealing, modifying complexion, sunscreen, and etc.[1]CC cream, the abbreviation of “Color Control Cream”, was mainly used for modifying complexion with more moisturizing texture.[2]At the same time, with the development of the market, the consumers appear to be paying more and more attention to product quality of BB /CC cream,especially to the sensory characteristics.[3]

Sensory evaluation is the most appropriate approach to describe the sensory perception of cosmetics, such as smell, flavor, pain, temperature, etc. On the other hand,descriptive profiling has been a popular sensory technique for cognitive descriptions of products.[4-6]The aim of this study is to investigate the sensory characteristics of BB/CC cream and promote the application of sensory evaluation in cosmetics research.

Materials and methods

Materials and instruments. BB creams and hand sanitizer were prepared in laboratory. Table 1 showed the classification of some commercial products including BB cream and CC cream. Electronic balance(Sartorius Scientific Instruments Beijing Co., Ltd),Hense timer (Staples Shanghai Co., Ltd ), hand dryer (FJ-T09A3C automatic induction hand dryer) and 10mm spoon(Experiment equipment sales department Haimen)were employed in the experiments.

Table1. Classification of marketing products

Evaluation indexes and the evaluation system. Table 2 showed the evaluation indexes and the evaluation system.

Table2. Evaluation indexes and the evaluation system

Evaluation environment. Quiet, relatively closed space; rH:55%; Temperature: 22℃.

The procedure of evaluation

1) Firstly, wash hands with hand sanitizer; apply the sample (0.2g) to the 3★5 cm2area of left hand after hand drying.

2) Secondly, spread the sample at special speed, and evaluate the spreadability at the same time.

3) Evaluate the moisturizing and sticking ability after 20 seconds.

4) Stop spreading after 40 seconds, then evaluate the concealing ability and modifying complexion.

5) Record the score on the answer sheet.

6) Repeat step 1 to 5.

Data analysis. After collecting the evaluation answer sheets, SPSS 16.0 was used to illustrate and analysis the evaluated sensory attributes.

Results and discussion

Analysis of the distribution statistic. Figure 1 showed the distribution of two indexes (spreadability and moisturizing) of 33 products. As shown in Figure 1, the scores of spreadability were concentrated in 10 to 14 points, which was on behalf of the average level of skincare cream; 88% products plotted 10 to 13 points for spreadability, suggesting that the BB and CC creams showed a little higher difficulty of spreading. On the other hand, most of the products got lower moisturizing score(8～13 points), which could be the results of that BB/CC formulation usually contained different ratio of powders.

Figure 1. Distribution of two indexes of 33 products

The sensory scores of other three indexes were shown in Figure 2. As to sticking ability, 85% of the products concentrated in 3～4.5 points, indicating that commercial products had a good balanced formulations. Interestingly,these products showed a wide range of concealing ability.For example, about 46% of the products got 3～4 points;besides, only 12% scored over 4 points. This phenomenon suggested that the marketing products may not emphasize good concealing ability. But when it comes to modifying complexion ability, most of products focused on the consistency of complexion because their scores were very concentrated (2.5～4.5points).

Figure 2. Distribution of other three indexes of 33 products

Analysis of the association statistic. The correlation diagrams of different index were shown in Figure 3 to Figure 6.

Figure 3. Associated distribution of spreadability vs moisturizing ability

Figure 4. Associated distribution of spreadability vs sticking ability

Figure 5. Associated distribution of spreadability vs concealing ability

Figure 6. Associated distribution of spreadability vs modifying complexion

The associated distribution of spreadability vs moisturizing was shown in Figure 3. The three classes were plotted in the ellipse where on behalf of good spreadability and low moisturizing. There were five dots plotted outside the ellipse in the first quadrant, such as 101, 112, 302, 308, 311, which belong to class 1 and class 3.Meanwhile, the scores of moisturizing ability for majority of class 3 were in the first quadrant, indicating that CC cream had more moisturizing ability.

The associated distribution of spreadability vs sticking ability was shown in Figure 4. All the three classes mainly performed well and concentrated in the area as shown in ellipse. The most of class 3 distributed in the first quadrant except 309; besides, 303, 304, 306, 308,310, 311 had excellent spreadability (12～14 points) and sticking ability (3.5～4.5 points). On the other hand, the range of sticking ability of class 2 was very wide, including the range of class 1.

The scores of concealing ability were scattered while spreadability scores of three classes were concentrated within 10-14 points as shown in Figure 5. Basically, the products could be divided into three spectrums: above 4 points, between 4～2.5 points and below 2.5 points.Almost half of class 3 plotted in the ellipse, and the rest scored between 2.5～4 points. The concealing ability of class 1 and class 2 was above 4 points except class 3, which indicates that the concealing ability of BB cream was better than that of CC cream.

Class 1 was very concentrated in the ellipse where suggested good spreadability and modifying complexion except 112 inFigure 6. For example, although sample 102 was outside the ellipse, the score of modifying is 3 points.In addition, sample 107 got the highest score of modifying ability. All of these showed that BB cream also had the ability of modifying complexion. On the contrary, there were seven products, including three CC creams, scored below 3 points for modifying . This may not consistent with the CC cream claiming “modifying complexion”.

In conclusion, the spreadability of BB cream was under that of general skin care products, and the moisturizing ability was above the average of skin care products. In the meanwhile, the concealing ability of BB cream was in wide range. However, the spreadability and sticking ability of CC cream was slightly better than BB cream, and CC cream did not focused on concealing ability.

Application. Sensory evaluation provided both the sensory characteristic of the same category products and the sensory target for BB/CC cream which were good spreadability, moisturizing, concealing, and modifying complexion. And also, the evaluation system of concealing products was initially formed through the sensory evaluation.

Conclusions

Firstly, by sensory evaluation, formulators can learn the differences between the test sample and the target sample,and make it possible to identify underlying ingredient and process variables.[7]Through trial and error, formulators can reach the demand of the target sample. In addition, in order to improve the innovation, the formulators can put forward new ideas at the beginning of the new project by means of distinctive sensory.[8]

Secondly, sensory evaluation can provide detailed sensory indexes for new products, and the application characteristics to help marketing department to explore more appropriate sales points in the fierce economic competition.

[1] Couteau C.; Paparis E.; Coiffard LJ. BB Creams and Their Photoprotective Effect. Pharm Dev Technol 2014(30):1-4.

[2] H. Zhang. CC Cream Helps Skin Repaired Well. Shanghai Articles 2012 (3), 20.

[3] Senoo M; Takemoto Y; Jingu H. Change in Affections by Continuous Use of Skincare Cosmetics. KANSEI Eng. 2002,3(3/4), 31—36.

[4] Poessel P.; Ahrens S.; Hautzinger M. Influence of Cosmetics on Emotional, Autonomous, En-docrinological, and Immune Reactions. Cosmet Sci 2005, 27(6), 343—349.

[5] Stern P.; Valentova H.; Pokorny J. Relations between Rheological and Sensory Characteristics of Cosmetic Emulsions. Seifen-Oele-Fette-Wachse 1997, 123(7), 445—448.

[6] Barkat S.; Thomas-Danguin T.; Bensafi M.; et al. Odor and Color of Cosmetic Products: Correlations between Subjective Judgement and Autonomous Nervous System Response.Cosmet Sci. 2003, 25(6), 273—283.

[7] Wang S.; Kislalioglu M. S.; Breuer M. The Effect of Rheological Properties of Experimental Moisturizing Creams/lotions on Their Efficacy and Perceptual Attributes. Cosmet Sci. 1999, 21(3), 167—188.

[8] Kusakari K.; Yoshida M.; Matsuzaki F.; et al. Valuation of Post-Application Rheological Changes in Cosmetics Using a Novel Measuring Device: Relationship to Sensory Evaluation.Cosmet Sci. 2003, 54(4), 321—333.