車(chē)水馬龍的城市，每天繁雜喧囂的汽車(chē)?guó)Q笛聲不絕于耳。陶淵明“結(jié)廬在人境，而無(wú)車(chē)馬喧”的靜謐似乎已成為一種奢望。而在意大利的五漁村，它那地中海式的寧?kù)o祥和與當(dāng)?shù)厝说你紤凶缘每隙〞?huì)讓你忘掉時(shí)間的存在。

I’m up early in my favorite village on the Italian Riviera， as the morning sun touches the tip of Vernazza’s bell tower and greets a peaceful world. The air is damp， cool and refreshing as I wander downhill， passing underneath the train tracks. I enjoy the fact that the town is traffic-free， and realize that my favorite Italian towns are all this way.

FIAT-free Italy…just the way I like it.

The Cinque Terre—as this stretch of five towns along the Italian Riviera is called—is located in northern Italy between Pisa and Genoa， and it’s the under-appreciated alternative to the French Riviera. There’s not a museum in sight， just sun， sea， sand(well， pebbles)， wine， swimming， hiking， and pure， unadulterated Italy. Each town fills a ravine with a lazy hive of human activity—locals and visitors. While the Cinque Terre is now well discovered， I’ve never seen happier， more relaxed travelers.

Until the advent of tourism in this generation， the towns were poor and remote. Today， tourism stokes their economies and each is well connected by hourly trains. But traditions are resilient， there’s not a chain store anywhere， and each of the five villages comes with a distinct dialect and its own proud heritage.

To preserve the Cinque Terre’s natural and cultural wonders， Italy has declared the region a park. Visitors buy a cheap day pass to hike the scenic trail that laces together the unique communities.

Riomaggiore—the most substantial non-resort of the five towns-is a fascinating tangle of pastel homes that lean on each other like drunken sailors. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to a hilltop botanical garden.

The next town， tiny Manarola， is a tumble of buildings down its ravine to the harbor. You can hike up to Punta Bonfiglio—for a bar on a bluff between the cemetery and the sea-or enjoy tasty treats born right here: pesto on your focaccia， washed down by crisp local wine sprinkled with Mediterranean twinkles. Talk about going local.

Corniglia is a quiet town—the only one of the five not on the water. From the train station， a footpath zigzags up nearly 400 stairs to the hilltop town. According to legend， a Roman farmer originally settled Corniglia， naming it for his mother， Cornelia. Residents claim Cornelia’s son produced a wine so famous. Still， today， wine remains the town’s lifeblood. Following the pungent smell of ripe grapes into an alley cellar， I find a local who lets me dip a straw into his keg.

Monterosso， the Cinque Terre’s only resort town， comes with cars， hotels， rentable beach umbrellas， crowds， and a thriving late-night scene.

With the closest thing to a natural harbor—overseen by a ruined castle and an old church—Vernazza is the jewel of the Cinque Terre. Its action is at the harbor， where you’ll find restaurants， a bar hanging off the edge of the castle， a breakwater with a promenade， and a street market every Tuesday morning. While the old men putter with their tough little boats， the day’s last bit of sunshine seems to sweep the old women and children into a warm corner in front of the church.

Leisure time is devoted to the evening stroll， as locals wander lazily together up and down the main street. After three days in town—sitting on a bench， gelato in hand， enjoying the endless“ciaos”and parade of neighbors—I feel a part of the scene.

I caps my Cinque Terre days on the breakwater with a glass of dessert wine. At midnight， the Mediterranean is darker than the sky—except for bobbing lanterns on the horizon. By night， old-school fishermen are seducing anchovies into their nets. By day， the same guys are seducing me with a way of life that refuses to give in to the modern world.

當(dāng)晨曦輕撫韋爾納扎鐘樓的尖頂，對(duì)這個(gè)寧?kù)o的世界敞開(kāi)懷抱的時(shí)候，我在意大利里維埃拉最喜歡的村莊里，一大早就起來(lái)了。從下面的鐵軌穿過(guò)，我朝山下漫步，濕潤(rùn)、涼爽、清新的空氣撲面而來(lái)。我喜歡這里沒(méi)有汽車(chē)行駛，并且意識(shí)到我最喜歡的那些意大利小鎮(zhèn)都是這樣的。

沒(méi)有菲亞特汽車(chē)的意大利……正是我所喜歡的。

五漁村——意大利里維埃拉沿線的這五個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)——坐落于意大利北部比薩和熱那亞之間，堪比法國(guó)里維埃拉，但還沒(méi)有得到人們的充分認(rèn)識(shí)。在這里，目之所及，沒(méi)有博物館，只有陽(yáng)光、大海、沙灘(當(dāng)然，還有鵝卵石)、美酒、游泳、徒步旅行和純粹地道的意大利。每個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)的溝壑里都滿(mǎn)是慵懶的人群，有當(dāng)?shù)厝?，也有游客。雖然五漁村現(xiàn)在已被很好地開(kāi)發(fā)，但我仍未看到比這里更開(kāi)心、更放松的旅客。

在這一輩人發(fā)展旅游業(yè)之前，這些村鎮(zhèn)都貧窮而偏僻。如今，旅游業(yè)推動(dòng)了其經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)展。按小時(shí)出發(fā)的火車(chē)把每個(gè)村鎮(zhèn)都緊密地連接在一起。然而，傳統(tǒng)的力量依然強(qiáng)大，這里沒(méi)有任何連鎖商店，五漁村的每個(gè)村莊都有其獨(dú)特的方言和引以為傲的歷史遺產(chǎn)。

為了保護(hù)五漁村的自然和文化景觀，意大利已宣布該地區(qū)為公園。游客們購(gòu)買(mǎi)一張便宜的一日游通行券就可以沿著風(fēng)景優(yōu)美的小徑徒步旅行；這些小徑通往各座風(fēng)格迥異的鄉(xiāng)村。

里奧馬焦雷，是五個(gè)村鎮(zhèn)中最不像旅游勝地的地方。色彩迷人的房子如喝醉酒的水手般亂糟糟地相互倚靠在一起。一條蜿蜒在懸崖峭壁間的小路從海灘一直延伸到山頂?shù)闹参飯@。 接下來(lái)的小鎮(zhèn)，是小小的馬納羅拉，那是一片從峽谷向下延伸到港口的雜亂建筑。你可以徒步爬到蓬塔·邦菲利奧，去一個(gè)建在公墓和大海之間的斷崖上的酒吧里坐坐，或者盡享當(dāng)?shù)卦a(chǎn)的美味：在佛卡恰面包上抹上香蒜醬，痛飲地中海的閃爍星光飄灑在上面的清爽的當(dāng)?shù)孛谰疲務(wù)摦?dāng)?shù)氐娘L(fēng)俗民情。

科爾尼利亞是一座安靜的小鎮(zhèn)，是五個(gè)村鎮(zhèn)中唯一不臨海的。從火車(chē)站出發(fā)，沿著一條之字形的小路往上走大概400級(jí)臺(tái)階就可以到達(dá)這個(gè)山頂小鎮(zhèn)。據(jù)傳說(shuō)，一個(gè)羅馬農(nóng)民最先在科爾尼利亞定居，并以他的母親科妮莉亞的名字命名了這個(gè)地方。當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q(chēng)，科妮莉亞的兒子發(fā)明了一種非常出名的美酒，直至今天，美酒仍然是小鎮(zhèn)的生命線。循著成熟葡萄濃郁的芳香走入小徑旁的一個(gè)酒窖，我看見(jiàn)了一個(gè)當(dāng)?shù)厝?，他讓我將吸管插入他的酒桶中，品酌美酒?/p>

蒙特羅索，是五漁村中唯一名副其實(shí)的度假小鎮(zhèn)，于是隨之而來(lái)的便是汽車(chē)、旅館、可租用的沙灘太陽(yáng)傘、擁擠的人群和繁榮的午夜勝景。

從一座廢棄的城堡和一個(gè)古老的教堂上俯瞰，韋爾納扎，作為離天然海港最近的地方，是五漁村的珠寶。它坐落在港口邊，你在這里會(huì)看到餐館、一個(gè)依著城堡邊緣而建的酒吧、一個(gè)建有長(zhǎng)廊的防波堤和一個(gè)每周二上午開(kāi)放的馬路市場(chǎng)。當(dāng)老人們駕駛著他們牢固的小船四處閑逛的時(shí)候，白天的最后一抹余暉似乎將老婦人和小孩們都集中到了教堂前溫暖的角落里。

當(dāng)?shù)厝说男蓍e時(shí)光都交給了晚間的散步，大家一起在小鎮(zhèn)的主路上來(lái)回閑散地漫步。我坐在長(zhǎng)凳上，手捧冰淇淋，耳邊飄過(guò)無(wú)盡的“你好”，欣賞著散步的鄰居們列隊(duì)走過(guò)——就這樣呆了三天，我感受到了小鎮(zhèn)風(fēng)景的一部分。

在防波堤上品酌著餐后甜酒，我結(jié)束了在五漁村的生活。午夜時(shí)分，除了海平面上不停晃動(dòng)的提燈外，地中海的海面比天空還要黑。到了夜晚，老派的漁夫們會(huì)引誘鳀魚(yú)進(jìn)入他們的網(wǎng)中；而白天，同樣是這些拒絕現(xiàn)代生活的家伙，以其遠(yuǎn)離塵囂的生活方式引誘我一再停留。